chang50012
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Posts posted by chang50012
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I bring the Warrior to Mechanic for the oil changes for the RV season. Next thing I know Engine light is on while I on the highway
Last used at February without any issue and filled with non ethanol gas until now.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
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1 hour ago, Derek up North said:
If you're on full hookups, convert your propane water heater to dual energy (propane/electric).
" Camco 6-Gallon RV Hot Water Hybrid Heat easily converts any 6-gallon RV LP gas water heater to 120V electricity on demand, helping to conserve propane. Its stainless steel heating cartridge heats the water to temperatures ranging from 90-Degree to 150-Degree F. The kit includes ON/OFF power switch with mounting bracket and fully adjustable thermostat. All necessary power cords and color-coded wire assemblies are also included. 15 A/120 V electrical service is required for use. The thermostat is factory preset to 120-Degree F. "
As a rule of thumb, 140F is the hottest that you can comfortably keep your hand on something.
Wow,
That maybe even better idea. Never thought about that until now. So it could run electric or Propane once it installed?
Does it need professional install or I could do it?
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Maybe because we use a lot of hot water?
When I took shower the last time in our Warrior, I struggled to get the temperature right and only got about one minutes of shower time.
We don't really dry camping and most of time will have full hook up with sewer connection.
I just got a call from RV shop say this Model will not fit in place from Atwood 6 Gallon. The search is continue then.
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New season and new project. Thinking about replace the Atwood 6 gallon water heater with the On Demand one like this one
Suburban 5132A IW60 On-Demand Water Heater
https://www.amazon.com/SUBURBAN-MFG-5132A/dp/B013002JD2
Anyone done something similar?
Thanks
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On 9/9/2017 at 5:47 PM, redskinman said:
So how's this been working out?
Sorry did not update more on this thread. Everything stay the same but I just don't have time to bring the RV out since the enlarge of the generator box. I am planing to get temperature monitor and 12v fan and do more testing and report back. It is more likely next year's project now.
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Thanks for the advise. Still try to learn this piece by piece.
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Was thinking about 50 cc gas one and the electric bike, end up with 1000W electric scoot. Happy about it and just less than $500.00
Heavier than I wanted but powerful enough to climb some hills and last on longer distance.
Could be folded up and store inside RV while traveling to.
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1 hour ago, redskinman said:
It doesnt sound any louder then the built in Kohler that came with my toyhome,except right at the very end when you turned microwave on it started to get real loud but then video cut off
For some reason my S8+ did not pick up the sound too good. Maybe the way I holding it. Sorry about the cut off, Just try to test the microwave and make sure it work and it did with generator.
Yes, as soon as the appliance kick in the Honda get louder initially. It is possible it was on eco mode and the initially huge Watts were needed.
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On 8/16/2017 at 8:25 AM, markwilliam1 said:
What about excessive vibrations and exhaust fumes even with an exhaust extension? I understand driving down the road will dispel the exhaust fumes but many times your stuck in traffic and those fumes will get into your cab. You would need a Lot of sound insulation also. I would never even consider it! My 2 cents only through. I wish Chang Good Luck! PS, I think the exhaust extension would also void the Honda warranty. Not endorsed by Honda.
Here is my idea of running it. This is when I run it without the sound insulation.
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On 8/16/2017 at 4:23 AM, markwilliam1 said:
That's what I do also Nam. My Honda is mounted on my rear extended bumper. I have plenty of room in my storage compartment for my genny also. I think Chang50012 will be very disappointed about the sound and vibration running the Honda @ full throttle so close to the drivers seat!
You are right, I am kind of disappointed about the sound (not sure about vibration yet) when AC kick in and generator sound just go up.
But I just try to give me all the possible options to run generator (on board and away from RV or on the cargo rack). Only time will tell which way I will use the most.
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1 hour ago, jjrbus said:
The 9200 btu Polar Cub roof air is an energy hog and draws more amps, 58.4 LRA than the Coleman power saver 11,000 btu roof air, at 45.6 amps LRA.
Jim,
My research show it will should able to be run by the Honda EU2000i, right
That is what it come with.
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10 hours ago, jjrbus said:
I spent a bunch of time experimenting with a Honda. When I tried to separate the motor exhaust for the cooling air it ran too hot. Does not make sense but that is what happened.
The intake for cooling air needs to be separated from the exhaust and warmed cooling air, I do not see where you have done that? If you look above control panel you will see the intake vents.
The Honda case is not just a cover it is designed to direct air where it is needed to cool the unit. I would purchase a remote temperature gauge or a wireless thermometer to monitor the temp of the Honda case, I used both. Lots of money wasted if you have it wrong.
Jim,
Great advice, That is EXACTLY the reason I post here to get suggestions. I am no expert and still try to learn one thing a time about our Warrior.
for remote temperature gauge or a wireless thermometer, if you don't mind to share which one you are using and where I could get it?
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10 hours ago, linda s said:
Needs air to cool. Are you going to vent the door or put a fan in?
Linda S
Linda,
Was thinking about it. But welder left the box not fully closed since he run of the steel plate. There are couple inch open near bottom of the box
If I run generator while driving it should have plenty of air circulation already.
Do you think I still need a fan?
Thanks
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Saw the honda-refit give me the idea to move forward and here is my little project.
http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/9948-honda-genset-refit/
Just drove my warrior back from welding shop and my 92 Warrior now could fit the Honda EU2000i which should able to power my Roof AC (9200 BTU)
But welding shop did not enlarge it big enough so I will need to find different way to put additional fuel tank somewhere
Also got the exhaust extension from ebay and welded to the back of the hondaEU2000i. See some Before and After pictures and the exhaust extension.
My plan is to redirect the exhaust pipe outside the box so I could run it while driving the Warrior. (Figure crossed, have not tested yet)
Welder run out the steel plate so end up not closed out the box totally. Maybe it good for the air flow while running the generator.
Any advise and suggestion are welcome.
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This is what I got. Similar idea but each side could be removed if not need or item is too big to fit into the basket.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200511417_200511417
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Here is how I search CL
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Along with other issue, we identify the rear 3T airbag of our 92 Warrior is slowly leaking.
Other than replaced with the same airbag from 3T, any other suggestions?
Or could the leaking be fixed?
Thanks
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JJrbus,
Thanks for suggestion. 4 New Blistein shocks was installed too.
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Thanks for the advice. I will do that.
If there any other thing could affect the sensitivity of steering wheel?
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Our 1992 Warrior was in the shop for couple weeks since we brought it. We changed all the fluid and new steering damper. I feel it handle differently now.
I find myself need to continue making adjustment to the steering wheel while turn to the right (or left) alone the road. It seems I just could not find the right way to follow the road.
Even on the straight line I found myself need to adjust steering wheel more than I wanted. The Warrior just done some Steering Box adjustment and alignment too.
I did push the speed a little bit to test the handling and performance since all the maintenance already done. But the driving experience are much different than before.
At lower speed (street) it feel not too much different. Once I got on the freeway I sense the different and force me to slow down. But I was not go over 60mph.
Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
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On 6/2/2017 at 10:51 AM, Totem said:
I am more interested in the "historical" plate. Is the hobbit so old as to qualify for historic vehicle?
109 lbs is pretty sweet, if I didn't have so much invested in my electric i would go this route also. My electrics however charge in just under an hour and have 50-80 mile range. Im not really sure because I have never ran one dry yet after hours and hours of riding.
My electrics cost me 300 a piece and 300 give or take for the lifepo4 30 AH packs; so 600$ for the hobbit is legit alternative for sure.
Totem,
What kind of electrics you have? Sorry if I missed your post and if you could share that information or provide me the link, that will be helpful.
Charge in just under an hour and have 50-80 miles range, I would love to know how much weight and how much it cost you.
Thanks
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Hunkaman,
Thanks for reply. That made sense, it fit perfectly. Seeing what to have on your Warrior give me some great ideas.
Found a 81 Honda express with only 222 miles and asking for $600. Do you think that is a good deal? Not sure how much it weight.
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I am going to do that, Since your post I been looking but not too much luck so far. Under $400 it almost means parts only around here.
I found so amused to see your post, If you don't mind to tell me where you find that cover from? or you custom made it?
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Hunkaman,
Where did you find such a fine piece? I want one too! This sure bring back some memory for me. I used to have one just like that. But it was from Yamaha if I recall.
Engine light is on. mechanic say system is running too lean. What is that means?
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
Thanks all the advise! That is very helpful.