deadflo
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Posts posted by deadflo
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I really appreciate you helping me the way you did, and the 3 ideas they came up with are all things I had already tried. The exhaust system is brand new, it was the first thing i fixed on it.
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Wow, this has become the worst ever experience I have ever had with a vehicle in my whole life. I feel humiliated that I even have to tell the rest of this story,
My mechanic became convinced that the reason for the overheating was corrosion in the water jacket of the engine. The last bit of info that convinced him of that was determining with an IR thermometer that the rear cylinder was running at a whopping 400 degrees, while the other three seemed much cooler. He assumed that crud in that cylinders water jacket was causing the whole engine to overheat.eventually, after it ran for about 20 minutes, or 15 or so miles on the open road at 60MPH. Futher, he noticed that when he was running it in the shop at about 2500RPM, it was blowing blue smoke. I had not noticed the blue smoke in the month I had owned it. He stated that the oil ring the bakc cylinder was going, even though the compression must have been OK , as it showed good compression , when he was checking to see if it was the head gasket.Ok, this is where my stupidity, allowed him to convince me to have the engine pulled out and get it rebuilt. I had him pull a freeze plug after he got it out, and he said there "was corrosion, but not as bad as he thought it would be."
The engine and head came back from the shop this week, and they installed it. I dropped by to see how it was going today, and he said they couldn't believe it, but it was still overheating!
OK, it's a"new " rebuild. New head gasket, freshly cleaned cooling passages, all new cooling system which I changed out to begin with.He said he drove the car to his home last night, which is about 12 miles form the shop, out in the country near me, in an effort to track down the problem. He also specifically looked at the radiator hoses to see if they were collapsing, and said that was not the case.
I feel sick that I was so stupid to authorize the rebuild. At this point I have a fantasy of just parking this POS on my property. Maybe I can sell the rebuilt engine for cost or something. I don't know WTF to do. I had been looking for a Toy camper for a couple years, and this was supposed to be my wife and I's fun camper rig as I hit 60 years old. If anyone has any other ideas Im open to checking them out. If someone wants to make me an offer on the rig or the engine, Im willing to talk as well.
This really sucks.
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On 2017-06-11 at 10:11 AM, jjrbus said:
One of the things I find extremely frustrating on the internet is doing a search, finding a similar issue in a thread loaded with misinformation and then when it seems like they might have found an answer, they disappear never to heard from again! Have you tried searching Yotatech ?
Yeah, that's for sure! I have been looking at a few similar threads over there as well, thanks! I'm thinking I'm narrowing it down now to two rather expensive issues. It could be rust and corrosion in the water jacket in the engine. I'm having my mechanic pull out a freeze plug this week to take a look inside. Although I have had tests done to check the head gasket, that were negative, the Toyota mechanic from my other shop says that could still be a possibility, and it may be so minor at this point, that the tests are not showing it. It has to be driven for about 15 miles at near hiways speeds before it starts to get real hot.
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Yeah Ive read her thread, and the resolution seems a bit odd. I guess what Im pointing out is that it appears there have been a few people that have had overheating issues that never got resolved, or at least they never posted what the end result is, leading me to believe they never figured it out after trying the normal routes for overheating vehicles.
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Yeah, plugged cooling passages seems very likely.
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I wonder if the intake plenum gasket also played a major role, in that you would be running lean if you were sucking in a bit more air? I have a similar overheating issue, and have hit a dead end pretty much. I have found three other threads on the forum that just ended cold (pardon the pun) with no resolution to the overheating issue. Here is my thread..
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This is the third thread on overheating I've found that ends without any resolution. Just chiming in , cause Im having very similar issues with a new rig I bought. Here is my thread if anyone can chime in, but it seems like this a problem others have faced without ever being able to fix.
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This is about the third thread I've found on overheating that ended with no resolution. Im having this exact same problem in my new rig, here is the thread if anyone has any new ideas, but it sounds like an all too common problem that no one is solving.Here is my thread on this issue. Sorry to say, Im disappointed I ever bought this rig.
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8 hours ago, WME said:
Weird Sh*t list.
Bad "new water pump"
The lower radiator hose is collapsing, it should be VERY stiff or have a big coil spring in it.
Good ideas! I especially like the one about the lower hose. It is brand new, so pretty 'stiff". It would be cool to know a way to check and see if it is collapsing at higher RPM.s
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I had the shop put in a new sender for the temp gauge. I had the after market set, but wanted to see if a quick change of the sender ( much cheaper to do than install a set of gauges) would change anything. It didnt.
I drove home in 80 degree temps, 15 miles to my house from the shop. Im out in the country and have to climb a big hill about two miles from my house, the gauge climbed to above the normal range, but not into the red. I cranked the heater, and that brought it down a bit.
Sorry to say at this stage, Im not getting much help from the shop Ive been going to. There is another guy who does imports just down the block I have had do lots of work for me before. I told him about my issues with this rig, and he didn't seem to have too many idea, as I ve done pretty much all that everyone recommends.The summer camping season is here, but there is no way Im going to be using this rig.
I've become disillusioned and feel I made big mistake buying it. -
By the way, I wasnt sure of the location of my temperature sensor for the actual in dash temp guage, as opposed to the temps sensor that goes to the ECU for the fuel injection. These pics show I do not have any sensors that attach on the thermostat housing, there is a cluster of sensors underneath that area that you can see in the top pic, I tried to highlight them with a drawn circle.Hope you can see it. I took some readings from the sensor on the far left.
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OK, well this is very inconclusive info, please bear with me. I took readings at several locations, the first time when the truck had been warmed up by driving five miles and was back in my driveway, with the in dash gauge reading at about 40 percent up the guage (it is running a 160 degree thermostat). Then I drove for about 15 more miles at 60 to get it to start reading high. It is a cool day today (60 degrees), and eventually it went up to the very top of the normal range, then I parked again and took readings. Bear in mind with this IR thermometer, you can get dramatically different readings if you move the gauge just a few millimeters, pointing at the relatively same location.So I tried to point as close to the first location as I could.The only reading that seemed much higher was at the top of the radiator , near where the upper hose comes in, but if you moved the laser dot just a bit the readings were several degrees different . The top of the thermostat housing was hotter too, but again, you could move the laser dot just a hair and get a much different reading.The other readings didnt seem much different , in fact some appeared LOWER when I got back from the longer drive than when I took the first readings, when the in dash gauge was reading normal. I think it's going to take installing the aftermarket gauge, or even just a new temp sensor , to tell if there is overheating, but Im starting to think it's not overheating at all. I sure hope so. Here are my chicken scratch notes,
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OK, I got an IR thermometer at Harbor freight. I called them about honoring the website coupon, and they said just bring the number in off the page, but when I got there, their computer wouldn't honor the number. But I got it anyway for 27 dollars. Bummer, oh well hopefully I can use it for some other purpose. (also bought a tire for a big rubber maid wagon, but when I got it home, found it had a big tear in the sidewall, hidden by the wheel. Wow, what a crappy store)
OK, so I'm going to take a few temp readings today. Im not wuiter sure where the temp sender is on the engine block, one source described it as between the intake runners on the block somewhere. i think today i ll take couple reading from the side of the block, thermostat housing, ,upper and lower radiator houses, and compare readings when it is warmed up to normal on the gauge, and when it has run for 15 miles or so, and it is on the top of the normal range on the stock temp gauge. -
22 hours ago, vrocrider said:
Called my radio mechanics. Their suggestions:
1.) verify temp gauge. Shoot IR gun near where temp sensor plugs into system or install 2nd gauge.
2.) Verify base timing. Verify timing advancing with RPM increase.
3.) Clogged muffler/cat converter. This would also cause a loss in power.
Good luck.
Thanks again for your help! I appreciate you talking to them! I went to a sports car./race event yesterday couldn't call in! LOL. Im getting an IR thermometer today, but already have an appointment to install an aftermarket temp/oil pressure gauge. Im hoping thats the story, cause the cat is brand new, and I already checked timing, both static and fully advanced.
Thanks again!
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5 minutes ago, linda s said:
Harbor freight. Less than 30 bucks and you can print out a 20% off coupon from the internet. Looks like there's one not too far in the north section of Spokane. This is the one I have.
At least 5 years old and still works fine. Printable coupon on main page. It's only 19.99. Super deal
https://www.harborfreight.com/
Linda S
OK, cool, thanks Linda.
I wonder which specific areas I should check temps at. Thermostat housing, top and bottom of radiator? Im guessing there will be quite a range of temperatures in those areas. I borrowed one of those once from a shop to test my Datsun 240-Z and the temp range was quite wide in all the readings on the radiator. I think what I want to know is the temp of the water inside the engine block, like where the stock temp sending unit is located. -
4 hours ago, vrocrider said:
Infrared IR no touch temperature gun's are not too expensive. Quick way to verify temps.
Fan clutch...My Toy V6 has stock hydraulic actuated fan clutch. Typically this design very bullet proof. Years ago on a jeep went from stock hydraulic to aftermarket with I don't know what type design. Had to go back to stock hydraulic because aftermarket fan pulled too much air at speed. Sounded like a jet turbine & I'm sure was detrimental to MPG. I'd think the opposite could take place where aftermarket could slip too much & not pull enough air.
TESTING FC...
The second problem a fan clutch can have is the opposite problem. The clutch fails to engage no matter how hot the engine becomes. This condition will cause the engine to overheat because the fan fails to pull the necessary air through the radiator that cools the engine by the use of the systems coolant. This problem can be detected by listening to the fan while the engine is running and hot, you should be able to hear the fan engage. If you do not hear the fan start working shut the engine off and open the hood. Try to spin the fan clutch it should give a fair amount of resistance. If the fan just freewheels the clutch inside the fan has gone bad and should be replaced to prevent engine damage due to overheating. This problem will also degrade the operation of the air conditioner as well due to the lack of air being pulled through the condenser of the system.
The fan clutch is brand new, and it does not spin freely at all, stops after about a third of a turn. I was going got an IR (laser?) thermometer, but already got the new temp/oil pressure gauge that's going in next week. I may price those IR thermometers anyway this weekend. Thanks for the info!
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On 4/3/2017 at 7:32 AM, vrocrider said:
Having done a several older R12 dead to live car systems recently I'll share what I have learned.
There are 3 key points from a shop that does only auto/truck A/C. If there's a chance the compressor is not dead perform following:
1.) Always replace the dryer. This is the "can with site glass" referred to early in the above posts.
2.) Always replace the expansion valve. Most often it's on the fire wall but in the case of my 91 Toyota it's in the evaporator core box under the passenger dash.
3.) Use use cheap 134 to get the system up & check for leaks. Vacuum out 134 and install expensive R12.
Dryer and expansion valve are relatively cheap compared to compressor. If compressor has to be replaced the dryer & EV must be replaced & system flushed for the compressor to have a chance of survival.
To make the task affordable I replaced all parts & took to car to shop to do vacuum & install of R134 & R12. I also supplied the R12 to the shop that I sourced at $35+ a can.
Good info, vrocrider! I just got my 88 Dolphin with 22RE, and decided to have the AC repaired as I am in the eastern part of Washington State, where summer temps are very hot.. I had to replace the condenser and the compressor, and went ahead and did the dryer as well. The shop recommended I stick with R12, which I did, but two weeks after we got it up and running again, it looks like the expansion valve died. I'm getting that taken care of next week.
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6 minutes ago, darrel said:
Years ago when I still owned my 1984 Dolphin, 1983 truck, 22R, the temp was always good no matter what speed, outside temp, ac on. Then gradually the temp gauge started to climb toward the hot side. I would shut down the rig for 5-10 minutes and the temp would be back to normal. After restarting and driving for awhile 10, 15, 20 minutes the temp would start to climb again. I tried all the normal fixes. Changed coolant, always used green antifreeze, changed the thermostat, from NAPA, nothing, still the same. Next changed the thermostat from Toyota, I liked the looks of this thermostat much better but it did not work any better. Finally changed the coolant temp sending unit, from Toyota, THAT did the trick.
Outcome: The old 22R ran at its old temp weather it was cold, hot, AC on, AC on up hills at 100 degrees out.
Try changing the coolant temp sending unit, from Toyota. I have posted this same post before, maybe not the same wording.
Darrel
Good info, Darrel, maybe you missed that I am installing an aftermarket temp gauge, I already bought one, just waiting to have it installed next week, hopefully that is the culprit!
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2 hours ago, vrocrider said:
I'd review the specs closely on new radiator vs. old replacement. New ones typically are cheap aluminum & come in all different flavors. I just had my original copper cleaned & pressure tested. $85 I spent would have bought a new aluminum.
Might want to be thinking of block freeze plug removal to inspect for rust crude inspection. My guess is this is where your problem is if radiator specs check out OK.
If clogged might ask radio folks about cooling system cleaner & replace fan clutch with electric fans. Perhaps a cheap alternative to opening motor.
Good info on the freeze plug. I got a brand new old style copper radiator.
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OK, thanks my friend. I did not install oem water pump, but the problem was happening before I updated the cooling system.
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17 hours ago, linda s said:
thing is lots of don't have expensive Toyota thermostats and ours don't overheat. If there was air in the system but he sounds like he was really careful about getting that all out. I know cooling ports in the heads can get very clogged up. Got to be another reason for his problems. The extra heat gauge he's getting will tell us more. I hope. Timing advanced to far can cause overheating. Have you checked the timing?
Linda S
Yeah we checked the timing first thing, it was normal.
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I found an interesting thread about a special Toyota T-stat that might help my situation, I wounder if anyone else has had this issue or tried this?
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#Thermostat -
On 4/28/2017 at 6:52 PM, Derek up North said:
What problems were you having that prompted you to have a new radiator, fan clutch, water pump and thermostat installed? Same as now? Maybe the condenser was the problem all along.
Uh, what prompted it was the rig running at the upper end of the normal range on the guage when I drove it home on the hiway from purchasing it from 150 miles away. I got it for 2400 dollars, thought it would be a good idea to renew the 29 year old cooling system.
Running very hot only on hiway.
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
Im disheartened all right, but I havent paid the shop yet. The guy is driving home at night now to try to track it down, I'm imagining he feels somewhat sheepish about something that should be an easy fix that he hasn't solved.