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Is there a benefit to that over the garden hose valve I put on it? I'm never going to use it. I'm cutting open the water heater now.

No city water hookup. I needed the valve to stop the pump from pumping water out of the hookup. That's good to know though! Thanks for the info. Will cut the water heater open tomorrow.

Alright so I got a short vertical tank that fits in the bay, a little short Manchester 10#er. I got a vertical regulator and some new propane lines. The vertical regulator says, on it, that it must be mounted "OR" out valve must be downward. Does that I mean I can mount it horizontally like the horizontal regulator that's in there? Bad news: refrigerator and possibly water heater lines are straight venting. First thing I tried to do was get it apart at the 3 way junction, but none of those bolts want to budge, AT ALL. I liquid wrenched the shit out of them, and even putting maybe 50ftlbs of torque on them, it just wants to bend the lines instead. Instead, the lines can be capped. But the water heater (or what used to be) is encapsulated in some kind of ultra-thick stapled cardboard box in the corner. It has a propane line and a water line going into it. Do you know if this is safe to cut through? I just don't know what's in there and it seems stock. I need to get in there no matter what though because there's water leaking out of it. There was an opening on the shell that went into this compartment, but someone blocked it off with a metal plate and caulked it. Good news: after putting a garden hose valve on the city water hookup (the internal spring valve failed) the water is holding pressure fine. As long as I don't try to turn the hot water knob.. then water EXPLODES out of it with enough force to send it all over the RV, lol. Mechanical problems have taken me for a good long ride. I have replaced the oil pump seal, harmonic balancer, I had to tap the crank snout, replaced water pump, I converted the intake to a Weber 32/36 carburetor, I've been hunting down exhaust leaks for a week and now I'm pretty sure a valve got burned or a rocker arm is loose, I need to pull the cover tomorrow. The last person to work on it torqued the valve cover up to >50ftlbs, it's supposed to be 9 inch pounds. There's very little clearance between the cover and rocker rails so I'm expecting it to be kinda messed up. Lots of valve train noise and the valves were in spec when I checked them a couple of weeks ago. I've learned a lot Do you know what size caps I need on the stock lines? Looks like maybe a 1/2" or 1/3" pipe plug? You are a beautiful human being and I appreciate that you are so so helpful and giving with your knowledge. This forum and everyone on it benefits tremendously from your presence. I have read years-old posts you'd made that helped me solve problems this week. I wish I had seen this before I went and bought a camco regulator. Hopefully it doesn't get me blown up.

Re: horizontal, nope. Just a bbq tank from the gas station... Good advice on how to find the leak though. The regulator is ancient and covered in decades of dirt and grime, so it's suspect. No fridge or water heater thankfully, just the stove. I'm still just confused about what the hell he was talking about when he said that he 'capped the line' because I don't see a cap on anything. It runs from the tank to the regulator then back through the wall where it should. Would it be alright to just stand the tank upright on the ground while testing before I bother getting a horizontal tank in case it turns out that the stove doesn't work at all? Now that I think about it, it would be easier to just rip the stove out and test it outside to see if it even works before I bother replacing the regulator and all of the lines.

I have an '83 sunrader. Any ideas about what he meant? I would have thought he was just been full of crap, but it was days *after* I bought it that he left me a voicemail saying that I had to "uncap the line". He swore up and down that the stove/oven works. I replaced the propane tank, screwed it in, unscrewed the propane valve, and instantly the entire RV smelled like propane. Turned it off. I have checked the line as far as I could, and it doesn't appear to be obstructed in any way. The only part of the line that I can't see is where it goes up behind the stove, but it's inaccessible without removing the entire oven. I tried uploading a picture but the file was too large. The line runs through what looks like some kind of funky regulator with two valves, one that has an arrow.

Well that got me good and paranoid, so to the chagrin of my quasi-neighbors I went out there and started filing away, and smashing my wrench against stuff. I smashed my wrench against the leaf spring mounts, suspension components, and each section of the frame/subframe, with no breakage. Near the rear, where the bumper caved in, I could file and file and file, too much rust, I was just smooshing rust into rust with no hope of actually reaching anything. Near the front, I was able to file down to bare metal (I think?! ...I hope) in less than a quarter of a millimeter: The pictures kind of crappy, but what I was hitting was a glimmering black patch. I hope that's the metal and not some kind of advanced cancer rust. It was in northeast Arkansas and Texas for most of it's life, for what it's worth.

The whole frame is pretty rusted, but the rest of the frame isn't really spotty (I think that's the "rotted" look) like it is in the rear by the bumper. I took it to a body shop that does rust repair and the guy said it looked pretty average for it's age, and when asked if it was unsafe he said "I don't see it." I guess it's still kind of naive of me to trust him based on the fact that he was actively trying to not sell me something. What should I check for? I know the whole, 'if you can punch a hole through it with a hammer' thing, but I'd rather not try that, because the frame is still intact after the 1,400 mile trip here ;-;

I set the ebrake and ran out to get something, didn't put it in gear because it would only take a moment... In less than 20 seconds it had snapped and rolled. So, uhh... at least I found the replacement tail light pretty quick. I thought - what would the previous owner have looked for when buying it? The cheapest piece of chinese crap that money can buy! And yup, there it is! I guess I'm going to have to get the bumper welded back on though..

They look good. I went with a weber conversion kit, it took me a week and a half to get it running right. When adjusting the mixture, I thought that 1 turn was 180 degrees, when it's actually 360. So I was running it SUPER lean. I was scratching my head going through tanks of propane looking for vacuum leaks where there weren't any. Just my own spectacular blend of incompetence. It runs better than ever now. I removed all of the emissions garbage & stock carb stuff and plugged it all off. EGR, VSV, VCV, HAC, charcoal canisters, PCV, all the vacuum switches, vacuum rails, etc, everything gone. The engine bay is 1,000,000% cleaner and roomier. I discovered something awesome, too. The previous owner dropped the $400 on the dual row timing chain conversion kit. The valves are all within factory spec, and I found one of the oil leaks - both camshaft seals! There's definitely more to find, but this was awesome for now.

Alright everyone, here's the scoop on the solution. Sorry to say it's not much of a solution. The throttle linkage works ok on it's own (it can operate from idle to about 85% open), so instead of trying to ghetto rig this one, I am getting a stock pickup linkage from Jim's Used Toyota Parts, they were recommended to me by the tech guy at LCE: http://yodajims.com/ Easier than dealing with this crap. I cannot think of any way to get this to function that isn't just running the throttle cable and return spring directly to the weber linkage.

Okay, for anyone that searches this in the future, I got it to work, sort of. With the j arm connector provided (the U shaped silver plate that goes on the carb), the linkage will connect, but can only open the throttle to about 80%. I will update the thread as I continue getting it rigged up to work, because I hate it when people solve their issues and don't say how. I think I will be the first person on the internet to document how you get these weird RV linkages to work. I spoke to someone at LCE and they said that this kind of strange linkage is specific to RVs. The guy I spoke with told me that he had converted one of these to the stock pickup linkages with the rotating disc, but I don't have one of those on hand. He did tell me that he didn't have to fabricate anything, the stock pickup one is pretty much plug and play, if that helps anyone in the future.

Do you mean like this?

So this is the throttle linkage I have on my 22R. It doesn't look like anything I've seen online. I saw one that was similar, but the person just said they got it to work and never updated the thread saying how. I've tried googling a lot but don't see any way to actually connect these, even with the included j arm plate that goes where the brass one is on the carb. Because of the poor rotation radius in the ball joint, I don't think it would be capable of opening the throttle more than 20%. Does anyone else have a throttle linkage like this?

That's great to know, thank you very much. Suspension components are now on my to-do list, first I've just gotta get the engine running right. They are totally worn out, and should have been replaced a long time ago. I'm taking the rig up to NY to my buddy and we're going to hoist the engine out, put it on a stand, and send the head and block off for machining. Next on my list after that is suspension, then rust repair (I have a friend that does auto welding for a living), then interior renovation.

Heya, So I've done a lot of reading, research, watching videos etc since this was posted. I started with a compression test but had to stop because the aluminum threading in the block was completely stripped. I got this far: First cylinder: Dry 125, oiled 150 Second cylinder: Dry 135 What came out of there are some of the nastiest spark plugs I've ever seen: I have a leakdown tester but didn't get to use it. I'm going to try chasing the threads and if that doesn't work I'll helicoil them. I discovered that the previous owner was trying to desmog it but only got it halfway done. HAC unit vacuum tube ports on the carb were plugged with screws. I replaced the tubing and properly plugged them. I ordered a weber conversion kit and will be removing the entire emissions system because I doubt any of it is functional after what he did - it's all hooked up incorrectly, some of the tubes are disconnected, the EGR valve was hooked up to itself with a vacuum splitter. Basically complete carnage. The carb is dirtier than any carb I've ever seen. Under the throttle plates is a layer of filth and grime so thick that I can scrape off huge chunks of it with my fingernails. I turned 4 white rags jet black just cleaning in and around the throttle plates. It's still running like total crap. The valves have never been adjusted and are loose as hell, tomorrow I will be receiving a new valve cover gasket (fearing the worst with a 40 year old seal) and I'll adjust them. I've flushed the coolant and changed the oil. I have a new fuel filter but I found out the hard way that I have to drop the fuel tank to get to it. I changed the spark plugs & wires, but the distributor is either fucked up or funky, it has no vacuum connection. Oh, and it's missing head bolts. My current best guess is that a combination of running way too lean and the valves being extremely loose are causing autoignition, because when it's not hidden by the cold start idle, every few seconds, the entire rig will begin vibrating as the engine emits a deep, apocalyptic sounding rumble. I popped the hood to watch, and when it's misfiring or autoigniting it rocks back and forth like it's being hit by a wrecking ball. The electrical wiring is extremely ghetto. Some of it was done using a power strip cable. Check this out: Here's a video demonstrating how horribly it's running:

Don't feel like reading the whole thread but if it hasn't been suggested already you can remove the emissions systems and vacuum lines, all you need is some plugs and block plates (which you can get from lce)

Thanks Linda! I will check it all first thing tomorrow. I've gotta go read more about suspensions and I'll update the OP/reply tomorrow. I am very excited to learn all about my rig Just a little intimidated by the complexity of everything. I looked at a diagram for the carb - I expected it to be closer to my mopeds carb which is about 8 parts. My eyes glazed over when I saw that it was closer to 200. It's a front end leak, right near the radiator. I tried looking yesterday but I'm a bit too big to fit under there. I'll jack it up tomorrow. Seems to only leak when running and drips a bit after stopping. I've lurked here for months and I've read a lot of your posts in various threads and they've been really helpful, so thank you

So I just picked up my Sunrader and (a bit of a gamble, I know) drove it a thousand miles home. This is my first post and I'm glad to be inducted into the community of 'yota motorhome owners I've noticed 3 things: It has a pretty bad oil leak, it's losing a quart every 600 miles It has a speed wobble @ ~55-60mph, and when being passed by a semi it wobbles like crazy - that sounds like suspension to me The ebrake doesn't work, so I can't leave it running and have to turn it off in gear. The only thing that's really concerning me is the speed wobble. It seems like it's the suspension but I don't want to drop nearly a thousand dollars replacing it to have it be something in the axle. A friend's mechanic told me to go to an alignment shop and just tell them that I want the front axle aligned, he said that they wouldn't do the alignment and would instead have a list of parts that need to be replaced. Does that sound right?