Mister Blu

Cool. Good thinking. Thanks Linda!

Well... it will run me about a hundred for the new lock... plus the work of modifying the door and jamb to accommodate. What methods do you all suggest for cutting fine controlled cuts into the fiberglass. Am considering the little square slots for the bolts to slide through.

The trimark 060-1650 may also be known as the T507. This I am not entirely certain about. p.s. If I were to offer the working old lock... what might the value be to a few fellow toyhome folk? As it happens, I also have 4 bench cushion covers in excellent condition. These are the blue ones. If one were determined, one could convince me to part with these cushion covers as well.

The Trimark 060-1650 is one option I am considering. Will this not work? Understand I will need to modify the side of door for bolt mechanism(s) along with the jamb (to receive the bolt(s)). Of course, the same is necessary when installing a house style deadbolt. The existing cut-out is smaller than the cut-out required for this new lock set. Cut out for this trimark lock is 4.94" wide by 4.85" high. The existing cut-out is something like 4.75 wide by 3.85 high? See pictures.

Looking to replace the old obsolete lock/latch on my '86 Sunrader. This is the one that does not have traditional style locking mechanism. I will like to replace with an appropriate lock that does have a traditional style bolt latch. What is the closest size replacement available? Must require cutout the same size or somewhat larger than existing cutout. The edge/side of door is approximately 5/8" from the nearest edge of existing cut-out. Trimark models I have considered appear to require that there be .88 of an inch of material remaining between edge of cut-out and the edge of door. (See picture) Also, what is the best dreamer tool to cut this the new cut-out with?

Yes, I did find that literature. Reckon I will get a rail for it. Thanks all.

Thanks Derek Up North! Will watch the selection of videos here shortly.

Can anyone direct me to a tutorial on valve adjustments, likewise with any timing adjustments that may be necessary?

Is there some product that will seal these cracks while waiting for a more permanent (and more expensive) solution?

The original A&E Trans-Awning 2000 did not come with an awning rail stock. Pawning rail was optional for temporary and semi-permanent installation. for permanent installation,manual says t screw box awning directly to coach. Indeed, this is how it came to me. I do not approve of how it seals, and will likely be more confident with the addition of an awning rail. What have other sunrader owners done?

Are there reasons why dicor's fiberglass roof coating is not recommended?

Considering installing an 'awing rail' to coach and then afix awning to this. Thoughts?

Linda S. Yeah, wish I could have found a decent 3 or 4 gallon water heater to put in there. concerning the depth... I reckon I can squeeze it in there. Fortunately, I am also rebuilding the rear dinette. Converting into a desk space of sorts. Putting in back bench like in the early models. So I ought to get it to fit okay. Is there any problem other then the depth size that i should know about concerning putting this 6 gallon heater in?

When paint cracks moisture can and often does get in and under. Why is it that you both suggest that dicor's fiberglass roof coating would not be the desired product for this purpose? What might you do to ensure that this roof is sealed and protected? Do not reckon that waxing will be enough. Linda, does bar keeper's friend remove heavy oxidization, or ought I also get a bottle of meguiar's heavy oxidization remover? That rig pictured sure does have a shine to it.

Linda S., Yes, it has sat for a long time before finding it's way to my novice yet caring garage. Since I have lurched it I have driven it the 70 miles from town I found it in, and then less than ten more around town. Have not done much in the way of the engine save for preparation. Planned maintenance includes complete change of fluids (oil, transmission, coolant), three new gate premium belts, air filter, thermostat, and installed an aftermarket air cooled transmission fluid cooler in front of radiator. Also, mechanic friend suggested valve adjustment. (Interested in a tutorial on this process.) i did put a new bosch agm battery in the engine compartment. Also, the p/o put new spark plugs and wires in. P/o also had a fuel injector replaced. Maineah: Not sure what you are referring to precisely. Will need to do some homework concerning the diagnostic box you did reference. What doesn't it mean for the distributor to be 'against the adjustment stop'? Thanks for trying to help me figure this problem out.

After washing the rig, I noticed some spider cracking happening to the gel coat in two small areas on the roof. considering super cleaning it first with a deoxidizer and buffer, followed by 'dicor clean and prep', and then two coats of dicor 'fiberglass roof coating'. Thoughts, suggestions, comments, feedback? Is there a better way to do this? Had already intended to look into this product prior to this recent discovery. "a wise man seeks many counsel."

Thanks for the swift response WME. Will turn my attention to the ignition timing. Have to learn what that is. Should not be a problem. Will report back on findings. If this is the case... a) will I need to continue using premium gas indefinitely, or can this be fixed? does this thing with the ignition pose a risk to the engine. I will visually inspect the motor mounts. Any other thoughts?

Hello folks. Have a question concerning engine noise. When engine is warmed up, it sounds ok pretty good. When it is in park and I give it gas, it sounds pretty good. When it is cold, it sounds a bit rough. Now to the concern... Upon acceleration and under load... there is a distinctive 'knocking' of sorts. It seems steady in tempo. When I am traveling and take foot of gas, the knocking subsides. It only seems to happen when I am under load while accelerating. Ideas? 22Re with only 40k. Sat for a long time. P/O was older couple who put 4K on it in the fifteen years they owned it. The older individual admitted that he had neglected the maintenance on it for some time.

Also... if I am replacing the old o.e.m. Sunrader h2o heater with a suburban sw6d(5120a), what door will I need? Will like to get a flush mount. Is colonial white the white that best matched sunrader gel coat?

Additionally... does anyone have a wiring diagram for the various electrical connections? Will like to ensure that I hook everything up as it should be. Pictures are appreciated!

Have what looks to be the original water heater in 1986 sunrader classic (rear dinette). From what I can tell, the original model is "rv3-x". Not sure if this is accurate. Just puchased a second hand water heater (suburban sw6d) that is new, save for some missing parts. The module was switched out by p/o. Likewise with brass? the burner tube. It also appears to be missing the little black cover. (See picture) The tank is unused. Not sure if the part where gas hooks up is good or not. My question is concerning replacement parts. E.g. The black cover, new module, etc. Also, the inner burn chamber is coated with some (gray) flaking carbon material, or perhaps some factory coating? Anyone know about this. Water tank looks as though it has never has water it, and the burn chamber appears in burnt. From the picture attached, does this appear to be in otherwise working order? Last picture is of 'new' water heater. First three of existing. By the way... picked this up for $70. Hope it turns out to be a good deal, and not otherwise.

I also am looking for this rubberized door seal. It appears to be the same as the seal used above the rear wheel wells/fenders. Where can we find this stuff at?

Have an '86 Sunrader with a Trans-Awning 2000 that was mounted using 1" long #8 self tapping sheet metal screws. i recently took the awing down to clean, re-seal, and to reinstall. Reckoned it best to move up to #10 1 inch panhead screws. A&E(makers of trans-awning) originally recommends using 3/4" #10 panhead screws. So, using a little fatter screws, i put some butyl tape where the screw will be going through and reinstalled. Two of the new screws 'free-spun', apparently not biting onto much of anything. Do not like the way it is sealed, nor the way it is mounted. Any recommendations? Did not find anything concerning sealing it up against Fiberglass. The concern are the almost 20 screw holes through the fiberglass. Do not want rain entering through any of these. Shall I take some Dicor to the top seam where the awning connects to the fiberglass body? What do you all do?

Thank you all for your replies. Linda, i will see about getting a couple of pics if i can get some that will clarify the issue a bit. Lee and Joan... sound familiar. One of my concerns is that i may be missing a couple of the square metal tubing that runs perpendicular to the chassis frame. i.e. potentially the same cross members that the more forward carriage bolt would fasten to. It also appears as though someone has done some reinforcing of the two primary frame members (forward the rear axle). The welds on these steel plates look pretty novice. Was this done after leaving the factory, or is this the original frame extention? My thinking is that it is the former. Is there a trick to telling if the frame is straight? Was this rig's frame damaged? Or is this all normal sunrader stuff? Again... Thank you.

What is a remedy for this? Has anyone attempted to install framing reinforcements to counter this issue? Have not had it on a lift yet. Once i do, i will look to see the feasibility of perhaps jacking the lower spot up a bit (1/2"), To then have someone weld in some steel in order to allow for a more supportive base. Hoping that there is someone who has real good pictures of structural members supporting the Sunrader's floor. Perhaps someone has taken the coach off the chassis, and has referencable pictures of chassis with coach freshly removed???