Iflyfish
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Posts posted by Iflyfish
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This is what the company says: I am still not sure how to configure these? Ideas. I am struggling to understand what they are saying.
Battery pulse device
Before I jump into the question I want to point out that the PP-12-L does NOT pulse 14 volts. It is a true frequency based desulfator not a voltage pulsing desulfator. This is why it has better results.
If I understand your question correctly, you will still need one PP-12-L on the starting battery and one on the house batteries. The configuration on the house batteries will be on the POS of the first battery and the NEG of the second battery. The same connection points that lead to your charger.
This blog article will assist in setting up for various configurations. There are links within the article to more detailed diagrams for each type of setup.Have a Wonderful Day!
Thank You,
Stephanie
Impact Battery Sales Team
1-866-668-3163http://www.impactbattery.com/blog/2017/06/3-ways-to-connect-lead-acid-batteries/
Ifyfishinastateofconstantconfusion
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I am wondering how long it takes you to recharge your battery using your truck generator? I'm trying to sort this out as I use a CPAP that will draw down my 12 volt battery overnight.
Thanks
Iflyfishwithmycpap
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1 hour ago, linda s said:
I left my Sunrader plugged in for pretty much 10 years and have the old style converter. My batteries still lasted 5 years or more. didn't by any fancy expensive batteries though. Cheap Walmart ones. 100 bucks for 5 years of use sounds darn cheap to me
Linda S
Right on! Good for you! My experience with my Winnebago View was that I had to replace 2 sets of Trojan batteries over two years. I installed the Progressive Dynamic converter and never a problem again, went with COSTCO batteries and was golden after that. I am glad to hear of the durability of the original converter, this is good news. Mine has 30 years on it and finger's crossed here. I don't want to have to replace it! Thanks
Iflyfishinthedark
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3 hours ago, WME said:
OK at this point this is a SWAG. You seem to be worried about the house battery sulphating, so get one of these power pulse units and install it on the house battery.
It will protect your house battery. If the pulses get through the combiner great, if not then your like the rest of us who regularly abuse the poor truck battery and get away with it.
Thank you very much.....this makes sense. I actually want both batteries to be pulsed, to prevent sufphating. However you make a good point, put it on the house battery as it is first in line for charging and if it also works for the truck battery I'm golden. Thank you. I appreciate your thinking on this.
Iflyfishwithmyfingerinanelectricaloutlet
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34 minutes ago, WME said:
Are the 2 batteries your talking about both house batteries? or is 1 a house battery and the other a truck battery.
If both are house batteries in parallel, then 1 of the power pulse units would be all you need.
Now were getting somewhere.....whew! One 12 volt battery is for the truck and the other 12 volt battery is for the house. They sit beside each other in the engine compartment of the truck. I installed a battery isolator that allows both batteries to be charged via 110 volts and via the truck's generator. It also stops the house battery from taking electricity from the truck battery.
Thank you very much for taking the time to address this. Vexing but close to a solution.
Iflyfishwithmytoyotafriends
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1 hour ago, WME said:
Lots of interesting reading maybe a few answers. http://www.bestconverter.com/
Lots of good stuff here indeed. My goal is not to have to replace my converter. If I were to do so it would be with a Progressive Dynamics Converter with Inteli-charger. This is what I put in my Winnebago View with my two 6volt deep cycle batteries. Worked like a champ. If this https://www.amazon.com/Pulsetech-PowerPulse-12-Volt-Battery-Maintenance/dp/B004I6QREK/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t will pulse both of my 12volt batteries in my Toyota, they sit right next to each other, then I am home free without replacing the converter.
Iflyfish
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15 hours ago, Maineah said:
No AC in the isolator it is purely 12 volt DC. You said you had a isolator that read both batteries that would be a replacement isolator called a combiner they will work with any charger bi-directional.
So would I then hook up the https://www.amazon.com/Pulsetech-PowerPulse-12-Volt-Battery-Maintenance/dp/B004I6QREK/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t across both batteries, one connection to a positive on one and a negative on the other or would I need one of these for each battery. In my Toyota the both 12 volt batteries sit next to each other under the hood so attachment of this will be easy. The battery isolator is now connected to both batteries so I can charge Toyota battery at same time as Coach battery but Coach battery cannot drain Toyota battery. The question is how to hook it up. Sorry for the confusion, it's hard to draw a word picture. I appreciate your input.
Iflyfishinthedarksometimes
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2 hours ago, markwilliam1 said:
Ifly guess what? The company that makes the PowerPulse also makes a charger that you plug in. Called XC 100-P. It charges and also pulses! A combination unit. Sweet! Can keep it connected to the battery for long periods but you need a 110 outlet. I just ordered one from KMart online for crazy cheap $63.00 with free shipping. (KMart of all places!) I'm like you and have no desire to replace a perfectly functioning converter when there are much cheaper alternatives. Thanks for bringing this Company to my attention Man!
This is like the unit I referred to in my recent post. It attaches to the + and _ posts on the battery. My dilemma is how to connect it to two 12 volt batteries with a battery isolator installed. The isolator lets the 110 from the coach go thru the Converter and charge both the chassis and coach batteries. It will however not allow the coach to draw power from the chassis. I wonder if it is safe to simply connect this to the positive on one battery and the negative on the other????
Iflyfishelectronically
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11 minutes ago, markwilliam1 said:
As Always Thanks Derek! It appears the battery itself operates the PowerPulse. Interesting. I wonder how much power from the battery it consumes? Could be the perfect solution instead of replacing my fully functional old converter!
That is my thought too. I leave my RV plugged in during the winter months when I am in Mexico. I lost two sets of Trojan batteries by having a charger/converter in my RV that did not do this pulsing. Ditto with the use of a trickle charger over the winter. This is why I am interested in this unit. I too do not want to replace my converter but want the desulphating function. I have asked the manufacturer about how to install it when a battery isolator in online.
Iflyfishwithmytoyotabuddies
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2 hours ago, Derek up North said:
"The PowerPulse is NOT a charger ..."
I have no idea how this 'black box' works it's magic.
That is right, this is not a charger. It pulses 14 volts into the batteries which removes and prevents sulpher build up on the lead plates. This is ONE of the functions of an Inteli-charger.
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In my 2006 Winnebago View I had a Progressive Dynamics Inteli Charger Converter. I installed it because it pulsed 14 amps to the batteries periodically. I used two 6volt batteries in series for deeper storage. Purchased two sets of very expensive Trojan batteries and they sulphated over the winter TWICE as I left the vehicle plugged in during the winter BEFORE installing the Inteli Charger. Started to use inexpensive deep cycle batteries from COSTCO and NEVER had a problem after that. This is why I have been exploring the possibility of replacing the converter in my 87 Toyota Sunrader.
I started this process by having this battery combiner. The goal: allow Engine battery to charge when I have the Coach plugged into shore power. I also did not want the Coach battery to ever drain the Engine battery.
Now I have found this device, which will do the pulsing of 14 volts like my old Progressive Dynamics Inteli Charger.
My question now is how to install it??? Where does it fit in this configuration? Where might I go to have this installed so it will work with the current configuration. If this works it will allow us all to save our batteries in a very inexpensive way.
Thanks,
Iflyfishfullycharged
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After some research I found this device that de-sulphates your battery as it is charging it. https://www.amazon.com/Pulsetech-PowerPulse-12-Volt-Battery-Maintenance/dp/B004I6QREK/ref=pd_lutyp_simh_1_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004I6QREK&pd_rd_r=GW5V62VK1987XDKJ97SA&pd_rd_w=oEIRZ&pd_rd_wg=DTdCw&psc=1&refRID=GW5V62VK1987XDKJ97SA
Anyone had an experience with this. I have installed a battery isolator that will allow both coach and chassis batteries to charge at the same time but will not allow the coach to drain the chassis battery. Anyone used one of these in that circumstance? Looks like a way better solution than changing out my converter.
Iflyfishwiredforsound!
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On 3/18/2017 at 1:33 PM, Iflyfish said:
I had a 2005 Winnebago View and I installed a macerator, loved it, once "dumped" sewer over a wall and through a window to a toilet in a friends home in Baja, Mexico. I loved that thing. I watched a poor woman have her dump hose blow up at a dump site while my macerator was blithely emptying my black water tank. Needless to say I want to put one on my 1987 Sunrader with a rear bath.
When I purchased my old macerator their were many on the market and I settled for a hard wired one in the rather large "sewer" compartment in the View. I don't have much room in the Sunrader for this solution.
I know that technology has changed and I once considered one that attached to the dump hose and a garden hose ran the macerator rather than electricity, as mine did.
Any ideas what I might look for to use in my Sunrader? I really like using a garden hose to do dumps.
Thanks,
Iflyfishwithcleanhandscauseofmymacerator
Just used the Sewer Solution for the first time and it works great!!
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10 hours ago, WME said:
Wheres the leak?? Compressor, fittings, hoses, or in metal parts evap and condenser??? There are cheap DIY UV dye kits at most auto part stores.
OR are you talking about water, as in condensation leak ?
Thanks WME,
Leaks around seals I am told. Never knew they had seals, have seen most of them on the beach. I am not a mechanic though I understand mechanical things.
I found this interesting video on YouTube that shows how one can use an a/c from a more modern KIA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kbklNI0Ijc
KIA Sportage: 1996-2005
1987 Toyota Truck A/C part number Part #: 60-01287 NA
Thoughts?
Iflyfishwithseals.
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1 hour ago, markwilliam1 said:
Hey Ifly! Super Nice Job. Don't think I'd cover that beautiful floor with carpet LOL! Didn't your floor add a lot of weight?
The floor cover is self sticking vinyl flooring, it comes in 12" squares. It is lovely but soft, like linoleum. So it weighs very little.
Thanks for the kudos.
Iflyfishwithmytoyotafriends
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My A/C blows cold in the drivers compartment but there is evidence of leaking.
I talked with a mechanic and he said that there have been three iterations of A/Cs since this one was made.
What is your experience with replacing seals in your A/C? Were you able to do that recently?
Thanks,
Iflyfishhotandcold
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On 6/18/2017 at 5:29 PM, linda s said:
leaks can be really hard to deal with on a conventionally built motorhome but your driving a boat with a few holes in it. Way easier to keep sealed up
Linda S
Nice way to look at it!
Iflyfishwithoutleaks
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Thanks
Iflyfishwithmyfloormat
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1 hour ago, bwolfgti said:
Never seen this done before. Looks like a good alternative to tearing up all the wood though.
I'm told that this is used by boat owners a lot. I did it in part because I did not want to remove all cabinets etc. It has turned out well.
Iflyfishsolidly
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I have an '87 Toyota Sunrader and am looking for floor mats that fit. I bought custom ones for my 99 Chevy tracker, black, grooved etc.
Have you found ones that are reasonably priced that fit your Toyota?
Iflyfishusingfloormats
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I really appreciate your thoughtful and knowledgeable responses. Thank you.
Iflyfishwithmysunraderfriends
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On 6/16/2017 at 11:22 PM, linda s said:
OK do your windows leak in the frame section. If not leave them alone. Resealing the windows usually means resealing them to the camper section. I own 2 Sunraders and neither has ever leaked between the glass and the frame. Those rubber things on the outside of the rear windows is a KEEPER not a seal. Holds the glass firmly to the frame to protect the seal from vibration. If you want to reseal the windows to the camper section you remove them and put new Butyl tape on and reinstall them. I did all mine myself so it can't be that hard. I mean after all I'm a girl. The front wrap around window can be ordered from Advantage RV in Napa and they will ship it but it will cost you. Google them. Another member here recently got a plastics place to make new ones for him and they came out great. Try places that make boat windshields or plexiglass work and see if someone wants to make one for you. Where is your Sunrader leaking anyway. It can only leak from where holes are cut. vents and such. Those you remove and reseal with butyl tape too. No messy caulk required
Linda S
Thanks LInda, I have no leaks now but know that water is the enemy and I am a proactive/preventative maintenance guy. I will keep this info for the fall when it is time to renew seals.
Iflyfishwithseals
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On 6/16/2017 at 8:38 PM, Iflyfish said:
Thanks Derek, will see when they arrive. If they don't fit I will fabricate some from material from Home Depot.
Iflyfishinmysunraderthankstomy friends
You are right, they are not cut to size. However they will work as is or can cut them to fit if I want and suction cups will work. Very inexpensive solution.
Iflyfishintheshade
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1 hour ago, linda s said:
The rubber seal on our windows doesn't seal. it's just a keeper. I have used Captain Tolley's for the front windows on my Tiger motorhome. You have to be able to remove the window and lay it flat, very liquid. It has to be a warm day and no moisture until dry. Will seal the glass to the metal frame but isn't the best option. I will have to remove my windows again and reseal after only a couple of years. Plan on putting a thin bead of windshield sealant in there instead
Linda S
It looks like I will need to address this in the fall, hence my post on this. I need to learn more about this. Do you have to replace the seals when you go about resealing them? Are new seals available? What sealant do you use? I want to reseal all seams on the motor home this fall. I don't know what has been used in the past, silicone or other product. I know that some products are incompatible. I need to replace the front windows of the coach at some point, currently one is cracked and sealed but I would like to replace them. Any ideas about where to get them would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Iflyfishwithsealsonmymind
Charge time using truck alternator
in Electrical
Posted
l am talking about the alternator. Excellent information. Very helpful!
I am indeed considering solar. Where do you store your 2 house batteries? I assume you are using 2 deep cycle golf cart batteries in parallel. Did you do the install yourself? Aprox cost?
Thanks a lot.
Iflyfishconmiaigos