Iflyfish

l am talking about the alternator. Excellent information. Very helpful! I am indeed considering solar. Where do you store your 2 house batteries? I assume you are using 2 deep cycle golf cart batteries in parallel. Did you do the install yourself? Aprox cost? Thanks a lot. Iflyfishconmiaigos

This is what the company says: I am still not sure how to configure these? Ideas. I am struggling to understand what they are saying. Battery pulse device Before I jump into the question I want to point out that the PP-12-L does NOT pulse 14 volts. It is a true frequency based desulfator not a voltage pulsing desulfator. This is why it has better results. If I understand your question correctly, you will still need one PP-12-L on the starting battery and one on the house batteries. The configuration on the house batteries will be on the POS of the first battery and the NEG of the second battery. The same connection points that lead to your charger. This blog article will assist in setting up for various configurations. There are links within the article to more detailed diagrams for each type of setup. Have a Wonderful Day! Thank You, Stephanie Impact Battery Sales Team 1-866-668-3163 http://www.impactbattery.com/blog/2017/06/3-ways-to-connect-lead-acid-batteries/ Ifyfishinastateofconstantconfusion

I am wondering how long it takes you to recharge your battery using your truck generator? I'm trying to sort this out as I use a CPAP that will draw down my 12 volt battery overnight. Thanks Iflyfishwithmycpap

Right on! Good for you! My experience with my Winnebago View was that I had to replace 2 sets of Trojan batteries over two years. I installed the Progressive Dynamic converter and never a problem again, went with COSTCO batteries and was golden after that. I am glad to hear of the durability of the original converter, this is good news. Mine has 30 years on it and finger's crossed here. I don't want to have to replace it! Thanks Iflyfishinthedark

Thank you very much.....this makes sense. I actually want both batteries to be pulsed, to prevent sufphating. However you make a good point, put it on the house battery as it is first in line for charging and if it also works for the truck battery I'm golden. Thank you. I appreciate your thinking on this. Iflyfishwithmyfingerinanelectricaloutlet

Now were getting somewhere.....whew! One 12 volt battery is for the truck and the other 12 volt battery is for the house. They sit beside each other in the engine compartment of the truck. I installed a battery isolator that allows both batteries to be charged via 110 volts and via the truck's generator. It also stops the house battery from taking electricity from the truck battery. Thank you very much for taking the time to address this. Vexing but close to a solution. Iflyfishwithmytoyotafriends

Lots of good stuff here indeed. My goal is not to have to replace my converter. If I were to do so it would be with a Progressive Dynamics Converter with Inteli-charger. This is what I put in my Winnebago View with my two 6volt deep cycle batteries. Worked like a champ. If this https://www.amazon.com/Pulsetech-PowerPulse-12-Volt-Battery-Maintenance/dp/B004I6QREK/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t will pulse both of my 12volt batteries in my Toyota, they sit right next to each other, then I am home free without replacing the converter. Iflyfish

So would I then hook up the https://www.amazon.com/Pulsetech-PowerPulse-12-Volt-Battery-Maintenance/dp/B004I6QREK/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t across both batteries, one connection to a positive on one and a negative on the other or would I need one of these for each battery. In my Toyota the both 12 volt batteries sit next to each other under the hood so attachment of this will be easy. The battery isolator is now connected to both batteries so I can charge Toyota battery at same time as Coach battery but Coach battery cannot drain Toyota battery. The question is how to hook it up. Sorry for the confusion, it's hard to draw a word picture. I appreciate your input. Iflyfishinthedarksometimes

This is like the unit I referred to in my recent post. It attaches to the + and _ posts on the battery. My dilemma is how to connect it to two 12 volt batteries with a battery isolator installed. The isolator lets the 110 from the coach go thru the Converter and charge both the chassis and coach batteries. It will however not allow the coach to draw power from the chassis. I wonder if it is safe to simply connect this to the positive on one battery and the negative on the other???? Iflyfishelectronically

That is my thought too. I leave my RV plugged in during the winter months when I am in Mexico. I lost two sets of Trojan batteries by having a charger/converter in my RV that did not do this pulsing. Ditto with the use of a trickle charger over the winter. This is why I am interested in this unit. I too do not want to replace my converter but want the desulphating function. I have asked the manufacturer about how to install it when a battery isolator in online. Iflyfishwithmytoyotabuddies

That is right, this is not a charger. It pulses 14 volts into the batteries which removes and prevents sulpher build up on the lead plates. This is ONE of the functions of an Inteli-charger.

In my 2006 Winnebago View I had a Progressive Dynamics Inteli Charger Converter. I installed it because it pulsed 14 amps to the batteries periodically. I used two 6volt batteries in series for deeper storage. Purchased two sets of very expensive Trojan batteries and they sulphated over the winter TWICE as I left the vehicle plugged in during the winter BEFORE installing the Inteli Charger. Started to use inexpensive deep cycle batteries from COSTCO and NEVER had a problem after that. This is why I have been exploring the possibility of replacing the converter in my 87 Toyota Sunrader. I started this process by having this battery combiner. The goal: allow Engine battery to charge when I have the Coach plugged into shore power. I also did not want the Coach battery to ever drain the Engine battery. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Victron-Cyrix-ct-12-24V-120-Amp-Battery-Combiner/172721501802?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44840%26meid%3Dbfce19d88b77412aaa8d8c7327f36cd1%26pid%3D100012%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D252844599797 Now I have found this device, which will do the pulsing of 14 volts like my old Progressive Dynamics Inteli Charger. https://www.amazon.com/Pulsetech-PowerPulse-12-Volt-Battery-Maintenance/dp/B004I6QREK/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t My question now is how to install it??? Where does it fit in this configuration? Where might I go to have this installed so it will work with the current configuration. If this works it will allow us all to save our batteries in a very inexpensive way. Thanks, Iflyfishfullycharged

After some research I found this device that de-sulphates your battery as it is charging it. https://www.amazon.com/Pulsetech-PowerPulse-12-Volt-Battery-Maintenance/dp/B004I6QREK/ref=pd_lutyp_simh_1_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004I6QREK&pd_rd_r=GW5V62VK1987XDKJ97SA&pd_rd_w=oEIRZ&pd_rd_wg=DTdCw&psc=1&refRID=GW5V62VK1987XDKJ97SA Anyone had an experience with this. I have installed a battery isolator that will allow both coach and chassis batteries to charge at the same time but will not allow the coach to drain the chassis battery. Anyone used one of these in that circumstance? Looks like a way better solution than changing out my converter. Iflyfishwiredforsound!

Just used the Sewer Solution for the first time and it works great!!

Thanks WME, Leaks around seals I am told. Never knew they had seals, have seen most of them on the beach. I am not a mechanic though I understand mechanical things. I found this interesting video on YouTube that shows how one can use an a/c from a more modern KIA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kbklNI0Ijc KIA Sportage: 1996-2005 1987 Toyota Truck A/C part number Part #: 60-01287 NA Thoughts? Iflyfishwithseals.

The floor cover is self sticking vinyl flooring, it comes in 12" squares. It is lovely but soft, like linoleum. So it weighs very little. Thanks for the kudos. Iflyfishwithmytoyotafriends

My A/C blows cold in the drivers compartment but there is evidence of leaking. I talked with a mechanic and he said that there have been three iterations of A/Cs since this one was made. What is your experience with replacing seals in your A/C? Were you able to do that recently? Thanks, Iflyfishhotandcold

Nice way to look at it! Iflyfishwithoutleaks

Thanks Iflyfishwithmyfloormat

I'm told that this is used by boat owners a lot. I did it in part because I did not want to remove all cabinets etc. It has turned out well. Iflyfishsolidly

I have an '87 Toyota Sunrader and am looking for floor mats that fit. I bought custom ones for my 99 Chevy tracker, black, grooved etc. Have you found ones that are reasonably priced that fit your Toyota? Iflyfishusingfloormats

I really appreciate your thoughtful and knowledgeable responses. Thank you. Iflyfishwithmysunraderfriends

Thanks LInda, I have no leaks now but know that water is the enemy and I am a proactive/preventative maintenance guy. I will keep this info for the fall when it is time to renew seals. Iflyfishwithseals

You are right, they are not cut to size. However they will work as is or can cut them to fit if I want and suction cups will work. Very inexpensive solution. Iflyfishintheshade

It looks like I will need to address this in the fall, hence my post on this. I need to learn more about this. Do you have to replace the seals when you go about resealing them? Are new seals available? What sealant do you use? I want to reseal all seams on the motor home this fall. I don't know what has been used in the past, silicone or other product. I know that some products are incompatible. I need to replace the front windows of the coach at some point, currently one is cracked and sealed but I would like to replace them. Any ideas about where to get them would be appreciated. Thanks, Iflyfishwithsealsonmymind