Boondockit
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Posts posted by Boondockit
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thanks, are these rear ends pretty interchangeable? This is the Toyota that it’s coming off of, mine is obviously a Toyota but an 83
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So these are true duallys? But still a 1/2 ton axle, won’t that still be a weak link for my 5000 pound Minicruiser? I thought the one ton is what is needed to avoid the “death axle” issue...
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Hi,
I have a 1983 Minicruiser with only 65,000 on it, really clean and mechanically perfect...
it has the recalled 5 bolt axel with the bonus fake duallys, as I understand it it is much safer, (if you are going to take your chances on the 1/2 ton recalled axel) to lose the foolies and go to singles on the back
I went to a great heavy duty truck tire shop and the guy said that in order to swap out the foolies for singles that I need a wider footprint tire (8 or 10 ply) but my rims won’t work and that I couldn’t put a wider rim on the existing wheel unless I had one custom made which I’m not wanting to do
is there any way to get singles in place of these foolies? Is he correct that I HAVE to have wider rims installed? Can I not just buy wider rims?
Thanks
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18 minutes ago, WME said:
2nd CB copper to battery... The CB trips when if the old wire shorts, So the battery is the source in this case.
Ahh, excellent thanks for your time and expertise...
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On September 26, 2016 at 1:59 PM, WME said:
The drawing will work, but it does not offer enough protection against shorts.
Changes
1 Hook converter + direct to battery + The converter and the 12 v box are fuse protected by themselves.
2 Hook 12v box + direct to battery + Hook ALL - to a single point, use the junction block in the 12v box
3 Install a 30-40 amp auto reset CB as close to the isolator as possible, install another CB, same size in the same 12 v wire, as close to the battery as possible.
The double CB are to protect from the 30 year old wire from the isolator to the battery from a rub through short. You have 2 high amp power sources hooked to that wire. A single CB protects the battery or the alternator but not both.
P.S. I like manual reset CB, if you have to reset it a couple of times in a row you know you have a problem and can start looking. The auto reset will protect things, but will keep resetting until it finally breaks from overload.
They come in different sizes
WME I wrote this yesterday but not sure you saw it, super important to me;
Ok, so by inline I think you simply mean that for the first CB (closer to isolater) that it's just the copper end facing the isolator (wire goes from copper post to isolator) and the the other post is wired to the battery, (just a single wire on each post and the breaker is a bridge).
For the 2nd CB (closer to battery) it's basically the same with the copper facing the isolator and the other facing the battery (again only one wire on each post with the breaker like a bridge)...am I getting it ???
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5 hours ago, WME said:
Get the converter, your not a electron guy. KISS.
Ha, that's putting it lightly, I actually like your plan of the re-wiring along with the inline CBs (although actually this would be more work than Jdemaris's suggestion to just add a power supply in parallel) , if I thought the Schumacher was working I would actually do that (adding a power supply in parallel to Schumacher)...
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6 hours ago, jdemaris said:
Yes, and that is fine. Or you can buy a cheaper power-supply with no optional charger and just use what you have. That Schumacher is fine for that job. Just plug it in when you have the rig parked. A power-supply is only $30. You won't find a power-center or a converter with a charger new for that kind of price. I don't care either way. You DID ask so I am mentioning possibilities. You already have a good battery maintainer. So it seems all you need is a power-supply. Note that such a power-supply will keep your "house" battery from getting discharged when actually camping and plugged into "shore power." It just won't go up to 14 volts. It will maintain at around 12.5 volts which is fine.
Thanks, like I said in the original post the Schumacher show no sign of current going out of leads when plugged into shore power (the outlet is fine) , although I am curious if my meter read zero because it actually needs an undercharged battery to stimulate so that it gives a charge (you would think my meter on the leads out would do it though)...
I like Jdemaris's suggestion to just add a power supply in parallel) , if I thought the Schumacher was working I would actually do that...
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18 minutes ago, Maineah said:
If you have a modern charger/converter you can leave it plugged in. No need for a battery maintainer.
Right, the Schumacher was (in my mind) getting the axe as soon as you guys started giving me info...
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1 hour ago, jdemaris said:
I am lost in all the electronic trivia. Back to the original problem and post. If all is wanted is the ability for shore-power to create enough DC power to runs some lights and a fan? All is needed is a $30 power supply wired in parallel along with that existing Schumacher battery maintainer. Have both. The power-supply makes DC when camping. The Schumacher gets plugged in when then RV is in storarge to keep the "house" battery charged. Easy to do and no rewiring. If you want to re-do it all, that is fine too. You did at one time, express the desire for simplicity.
I didn't specifically imply it but always wanted the battery to charge while shore power was plugged in, I understand exactly what you're saying and maybe just adding a simple power supply is an option, but per the original post, when I poke the leads coming out of the Schumacher (while plugged into shore power) I get zero juice, maybe it needs a battery telling it to send it?
I know the outlet feeding the Schumacher is good because I tested it
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11 hours ago, WME said:
3 Install a 30-40 amp auto reset CB as close to the isolator as possible, install another CB, same size in the same 12 v wire, as close to the battery as possible.
QuoteOk, so by inline I think you simply mean that for the first CB (closer to isolater) that it's just the copper end facing the isolator (wire goes from copper post to isolator) and the the other post is wired to the battery, (just a single wire on each post and the breaker is a bridge)
for the 2nd CB (closer to battery) it's basically the same with the copper facing the isolator and the other facing the battery (again only one wire on each post with the breaker like a bridge)...am I getting it ???
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Can you make that a little more simple? if you wish, break it down as far as it can go...I am a ridiculous noob
I don't get it...
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1 hour ago, WME said:
The drawing will work, but it does not offer enough protection against shorts.
Changes
1 Hook converter + direct to battery + The converter and the 12 v box are fuse protected by themselves.
2 Hook 12v box + direct to battery + Hook ALL - to a single point, use the junction block in the 12v box
3 Install a 30-40 amp auto reset CB as close to the isolator as possible, install another CB, same size in the same 12 v wire, as close to the battery as possible.
The double CB are to protect from the 30 year old wire from the isolator to the battery from a rub through short. You have 2 high amp power sources hooked to that wire. A single CB protects the battery or the alternator but not both.
P.S. I like manual reset CB, if you have to reset it a couple of times in a row you know you have a problem and can start looking. The auto reset will protect things, but will keep resetting until it finally breaks from overload.
They come in different sizes
I have never dealt with these reset circuit breakers, I see they have 2 slightly different colored posts and one is shorter, exactly how do these wire in?
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12 hours ago, zulandio said:
Here is a diagram I made up that should work in your system.
The only thing I dont understand are all the connections to the auto circuit breaker, the one I have has 2 posts and the diagram shows 3 reds and one black (the one to 12v fuse box)
how exactly do I connect all these things to the two posts of the one auto circuit breaker? Can I get a sub diagram zoomed in on the auto circuit breaker portion?
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4 hours ago, WME said:
What are your plans??? A new power converter or a complete redo with a power Panel
I'm getting a lot of help/ideas and I think I am going to do a partial redo with a new converter charger AND some rewiring, changing the order of things a bit (see zulandio' last diagrams towards the bottom of page 3)
...it looks like that should work for more safety and makes it more realistic for me to do (I have no experience and the full redo of everything is out of my league of ability), let me know your thought if you want and thanks for all your amazing input to help my decision....
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3 hours ago, jdemaris said:
If you've decided you want a complete power center with the AC and DC distribution in one box, but want something small - you can go for this. I have no idea what your needs are. I know in my case - my Chinook only has a 15 amp converter and it's fine. All I ever use it for is lights and a fan. My Minicruiser has a 30 amp converter and I never use it for anything.
My needs are exactly the same as yours, lights and fans.
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3 hours ago, jdemaris said:
I'm kind of lost in all this. At this point, I have no idea what it is you want to do. If all you want to do is wire in a power supply in place of that Schumacher - you can do so with a cheap 20 amp unit like this.
I'm getting a lot of help/ideas and I think I am going to do a partial redo with a new converter charger AND some rewiring, changing the order of things a bit (see zulandio' last diagrams towards the bottom of page 3)
...it looks like that should work for more safety and makes it more realistic for me to do (I have no experience and the full redo of everything is out of my league of ability), let me know your thoughts if you want and thanks for all your amazing input to help my decision....
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23 minutes ago, zulandio said:
YES~! I nearly fully get it, the only thing I am not certain on is where the wires go (+ and - from auto reset to 12v box (please see my pic attached noted with where I "think" they should go), AND I am unsure of where I need thicker gauge wires (and what does gauges should be). I can't thank you enough for getting me this far...
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22 minutes ago, Boondockit said:
Yeah I was typing this as you were typing yours...
Just looking at your diagram of your system on previous page and I almost get it, but redundant busses are confusing, can you draw another with your recommended layout (if fast and not a pain) based on what you know about my layout? THANKS!!!
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32 minutes ago, zulandio said:
Oh and also your changer is not grounded
See my last post not a bus box but an auto reset circuit breaker. Like a fuse that doesn't fry when it trips.
Yeah I was typing this as you were typing yours...
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6 minutes ago, zulandio said:
No I was mistaken it's not a bus box. It's a circuit breaker that trips when too much amperage goes through it and auto resets when it drops. In my system I have 2 of them. The first one has 2 wires leading off it and the + from the converter/charger. They then go to another one by the batteries which has a lead from the Isolator from the engine. I'm not 100% on how all that works but realize I may need to get bigger Auto CB since I'm guessing they are only 5 amps. Which would explain why the load feeding feature of my converter charger is not working. So thank you actually for helping me figure out something was wrong with my system as well. They say the best way to learn is to teach that has been my experience as of late.
In your case it protects the battery from an overload from either the Isolator or charger. If you do just go with a converter/charger I'd suggest being sure the charger goes to the battery where the isolator hooks up to the CB. Which may already be the case I don't know. Then the other side of that CB would go to the 12v box which there is a wire going from where the battery hooks up to something. But I think your system is wired wrong.
Zulandio, youre about 7 hours away and this is is taking up many more hours of my life than that, if you would be willing to PM me cacioppofamily@(the famous email that starts with g) and if I can pay you to help me that would be great...you seem to know exactly what I need and I'm just not experienced...
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14 minutes ago, Boondockit said:
yeah! The bus box goes to the positive side of the battery, so is this basically the same principle as a hub? I notice that the alternator charge from chassis hits there as does the wire from the 12v fuse box...
OK, so if I do go with the converter charger then I am mostly concerned with making sure the wire from the converter charger to the battery is a much thicker gauge yes?
Here is a pic of what I have after taking connectors off, I am looking up "bus box" online with qualifiers like "rv" "electrical" etc and I can't find anything, do these have another more common name? Text on device reads 12v 30a and then what looks like 332
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10 minutes ago, zulandio said:
I learned something here as well what I thought were bus boxes are in fact auto reset circuit breakers. I'm thinking I'll need to replace mine due to the bigger converter I purchased. And you have one already at your battery. The little box with two studs sticking out. And I realize he meant a 30 amp main breaker for the AC box which it can come with for $9 more on that site.
yeah! The bus box goes to the positive side of the battery, so is this basically the same principle as a hub? I notice that the alternator charge from chassis hits there as does the wire from the 12v fuse box...
OK, so if I do go with the converter charger then I am mostly concerned with making sure the wire from the converter charger to the battery is a much thicker gauge yes?
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6 minutes ago, WME said:
This simple to do (for me anyway) The 8725 has most everything in one box. You just need to cut a mounting hole.
Using the 8725 as an example here is my idea, 30 amp AC main breaker will power the converter and a 15 amp AC breaker to power all your AC outlets. If you later add something AC you can add another 2 CB to power things
Take the DC side and add fuses and hook up the DC loads.
You'll also need to add a couple of resettable 12v CB between the isolator and the house battery.
Ok, thanks, to be clear, this unit contains no breakers to start with? The isolator you are referring to is the chassis battery isolator that leads to house battery? If so, why 2 breakers? I am a complete noob to all of this and I am actually being schooled here on this forum (sorry)...
Hi,
I don't get it...
Fake Dually fun on recalled Axel
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
Thanks, can I fabricate/weld and get around these things usually?