Bikemike

SC2939 Monroe looks like a fit from what I can tell.

Just found this.

Excuse me. The # is 45700-35030. Not 457000-35030.

I tried to post a picture but this is one of those times where I am unable to do so.

That is the part # on the damper.

Thanks Linda, it does look like the moog will work for that part #. In our case the part # is 457000-35030. What do you think about that?

Will a standard pick up damper work for these motorhomes?

Yeah, I like it too. Thanks guys!

Patching up our grey and black water tanks with abs glue/house screen did a lot to reduce the smell in the camper. As well as re-installing a second waste valve between the two tanks that a previous owner deemed superfluous. But still, there was that familiar and unpleasant smell lingering whenever we opened the cab windows while driving. I figured that air was probably being forced down the sewer vent on the roof and somehow pushing those awful vapors into our living space so I tried an experiment. I took the cap off of our sewer vent cover, put a short piece of straight pvc pipe into an 90 degree elbow and stuck it into the sewer vent pipe pointing backwords. All was well after that. I'm sure that there is probably a sewer vent cover on the market that already does this and will also prevent rainwater, etc. from coming in. And we may get one at some point, but the roof top carrier over the vent prevents any water from getting in anyway. Even while driving in heavy rain.

We paid $4100 for our 87 escaper year and a 1/2 ago and we are fairly well pleased. We have probably spent that much and more on repairs and improvements. $13,000 is very high even if it's been gone over with a fine toothed comb and has lots of extras (solar, new tires (7) etc., etc.). That being said, the escapers are nice for having an aluminum frame (less problems with rotten wood in the walls). With the miles that low though, you know it's been sitting around a lot the last 30 years. Have a mechanic look at the mechanicals and an rv person look at the house. My guess is that $4000 would be at the higher end for it unless there has been obvious signs of upkeep.

It's called "wet look" floor polish or something like that. About $25 a gallon.

I got a gallon at Home Depot and put it on with a small rag. Several thin coats (4-5 maybe). A little goes a long way. Make sure you clean the camper Really, Really well. Anything you don't get off will be sealed in!

Flip a coin? We'll see next week when we head to Montana, I guess. Interestingly, when I called up the oreilly's to report my findings they said, "oh yeah, that hasn't been working". Ha.

I recently loaned a compression tester from o'reilly's and got disconcertingly low readings (100-120 psi). I was a little stumped because other tests went well and the camper was driving strong. So, after a successful 200 mile test trip I stopped into another big name auto parts store and loaned a second compression tester. 170 psi x4?.

Make one! The one that was on there probably wasn't that strong anyway. I used pressure treated wood from home cheapo. Look in the culled wood stack for a deal or pick out some warped ones and ask the manager for a discount. They will be happy to get rid of it and the warp can actually be beneficial when spanning the width of the roof (doubled up and screwed together). I spent about $30 on my wood and 2-3 days. It oughtta last until a suitable aluminum replacement turns up at the scrap yard. Plus, it looks kinda cool with the wood. Thanks totem.

I just screwed them into the wooden roof rack w/ big washers. The x- cargo has little metal tabs on the bottom that are for threading webbing straps through. I bent a 90 degree angle in them so I could screw them in from the side. The black box came with some mounts (big u-bolts with wing nuts) for putting them on a roof rack but they didn't really fit my set up. I'll try to take some pictures.

I keep my air bags at about 70 psi and use a cigarette lighter compressor. Since we put the bags in there is a lot less crashing and smashing sounds coming from the back. Less nerve racking.

The campers running ?. It took awhile for some gaskets to come in, the ones under the lock rings for the sending unit and fuel level float were shot. But, it was worth the wait for a "not dry rotted" rubber barrier in between 17 gallons of gas and the outside world. I guess the fuel pump on our camper just doesn't come on unless that air flow meter closes because I never did hear it come on while the key was in the "on" position. Here is a picture of the gasket packaging for those interested: It's not loading... part #s 579-140 (fuel level gauge) and 579-032 (sending unit).

We got the load lifters last year and really like them. Apparently, they only have two kits for Toyota motor homes. This one #57115 and #88113 which has an internal jounce bumper. We ordered the #88113 and the install was pretty straight forward except for the fact that I had to cut out the u-bolts that secure the leaf springs because the nuts were so seized with rust. My one complaint is concerning the bracket that goes between the bag and the axle. It's the same one for either kit. It really does look like it was engineered for an axle of smaller diameter. It doesn't fit snugly on there like you would expect. I sent pictures to load lifter and their engineers said it looked fine. So, I just clamped it down with my new u- bolts and it just kinda smashed together. A year and several thousand miles later and No problems.

Now, I've got the wires all sodered up and the pump works with the jumper cable in between Fp and +B and ignition on. It doesn't come on w/o the jumper cable...isn't the pump supposed to come on for a few seconds while the key is "on"? I get the same results when I prop open the air flow meter as when the jumper is in-the fuel pump continues to spin and spin w/ the ignition "on". Question: if the fuel pump doesn't come on for a few seconds while the key is first turned to the "on" position, is there another issue? A relay? A fuse? I have yet to find either. Thanks.

Thanks for all the helpful tips. I found the offending connection! Here is a picture of what separated us from our fuel supply. The pump works before but not after this spot. They used a lot of those plastic/aluminum splicer things for the camper conversion to lengthen the wires, etc. Thankfully, this one gave up the ghost at a convenient time for us.

Well, it turns out that my fuel pump is fine. It spins nicely when I hook it up to the battery. The volt meter says that I have 12v (w/the jumper cable in the diagnostics box and ignition on) at the fuel pump plug...but, when I plug in the pump...silence. So I tried a 12v light bulb wired up to the plug...nothing and yet it lights up at the battery. I expect then that I must have a wiring issue. That there is just enough of a connection to register 12v on the volt meter but no current. Question: should I return the denso fuel pump or put it in...? The current one has 80,000 miles on it. I already have the gas tank and pump out.

Ok, thanks. Lceperformance helped me verify that the pump needs to be replaced and a we ordered a new one.

Where do I spray the starter fluid?

Yes, I put about 16 gallons in. I got to a long stretch with no gas stations and opted to not turn back to the last one:( thanks.