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zulandio

Toyota Advanced Member
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Posts posted by zulandio

  1. 3 hours ago, markwilliam1 said:

    Zulandio, the Zep is completely amazing Man. Surface preparation is the hardest part as the fiberglass has to be stripped COMPLETELY clean or the Zep will bubble up. Many videos on utube. On my Granville I have the corrugated fiberglass panels. The fiberglass was completely faded and rough from sun damage. The Zep restored it Completely!! The more coats you put on the smoother the finish becomes. I put 5 coats on Grannie and the finish is smooth, very shinny and it restored the color also! Well worth the effort and it is Effort!! Good Luck!

    Does yours have aluminum front and rear panels or are they fiberglass?  What can I use for the aluminum? 

  2. 6 hours ago, jjrbus said:

     Some food for thought

    Overnflaion is not inflated over what is stamped on the tire, it is inflated over what the tire should be inflated to for the weight it is carrying.

    A properly inflated tire will exhibit better, traction, handling and braking and be less subject to hydroplaning.

    So when push comes to shove and you are doing 65 mph into a wet curve and have to slam on your brakes  is you and your family's life worth saving that 1 gal of gas every 1000 miles? 

    I don't know about your tires but mine say maximum weight 1784 a piece at 65 PSI in a dually configuration.

    20160930_114920.jpg

  3. I have no idea about the toilet but I'm guessing it's underneath somehow... As far as the couch goes I have an 86 New World and on mine I had to fold it out pull back the upholstery and there were screws in between the back and seat on the sides.

  4. Found some stuff that claims excess of 19 hours between charges but the battery bank needed for that would certainly not fit in a Toy Home. Also designed for Semi cabs which are small in comparison to even the smallest RV's. Sure would be nice though to have something like this with solar panels on the roof and about a dozen batteries you'd be set.:lol:

  5. Here is what I bought for a generator. I'm in the process of mounting it in the compartment right now. I know it's not "designed" for that however I've modified it. I'll take some pictures tomorrow. Basically I took some roof flashing for a chimney cut it to fit over the exhaust exit (air flows over mufflers and exhaust comes out). Bought 2 feet of 1 inch flexible exhaust tubing at a local engine shop. Bought some longer screws used aluminum tape since the gasket they made for the vent cover doesn't seal tight with the exhaust chamber that air flows through. Took a piece of 3/8 foil foam insulation as a gasket between the vent cover and roof flashing. Cut a hole in the side of my generator compartment. On the intake side I drilled a bunch of  holes and mounted a PC fan which is on a switch allowing me to keep it on after the generator is shutdown to vent the remaining heat. I then bought a 1.5 inch rubber pvc pipe cover put a 1/4 elbow and 1/4 -5/16 line fitting which will run back to a 5 gallon can of gas. The vacuum created by the sucking of fuel causes more fuel to be drawn in making it run longer and don't have to take it out to refuel.

    I have not run it on a day over 80's yet but it had no issue running my roof Colemen Mach one A/C and fridge at the same time. Inverter and A/C trips the breaker on A/C cycle. My A/C has 3 caps in it not sure what they are all for but hard start is defiantly one of them maybe they all are?

    http://apelectric.com/all-generators/portable-generators-800-17-500w/westinghouse-portable-generators/westinghouse-explorer-series-wh2400i-2400w-digital-inverter-generator/

  6. 9 hours ago, fred heath said:

    @Linda,

    The leafs? Were cut on a metal shear. The grinder is just to radius the cut ends.

    @WME, pictures to follow.

    (JD) they had a 7 stack premade but only measured 26" to the front. I need 26.5 or else the driveshaft wouldn't fit correctly.

    Basic 5 spring packs with 4 additional leafs cost me $900.00 ? But your right, Toyota uses some weird springs.

    Was $900 just the parts or the parts and labor?

  7. 21 minutes ago, jdemaris said:

    I am well aware of the many tires that have both single and dual ratings.  That does not mean that those with no such marking are somehow disallowed for duals.  Considering my el-cheapo tires are rated 1400 lbs. each - four of them comes to 5600 lbs.  Even if I derate by 10%, that is still 5000 lbs.    The highest rear-axle allowed weight on any Toyota is only 4400 lbs. so I fail to see any problem.

    Like I said do whatever you want but to me having a higher weight limit is greater piece of mind. I still believe that mine came with 185/14c from the factory unless they put one for a spare as an oddball for some reason. It was 30 years old made in Japan same as my Toyota. It looked as old as well. 

    In my opinion the one thing you want to get right is tires. And the original problem was blow outs. Don't care what anyone claims my passenger tires were touching at one point be it before I bought the camper or while I drove with them on. 

    The writing of one was imprinted on the other. If I still had them I'd show a picture of it. So does it hurt to get stronger tires nope could it hurt to get the passenger tires possibly. To me that is all the evidence one needs. But to each their own. 

     

  8. 43 minutes ago, jdemaris said:

    I can't say I ever heard of any tire-rule anywhere that a tire must be "dually rated" to be used on duals. Maybe such a reg exists somewhere, but I know I haven't seen it.

    Dually tires reduces weight load. Tires don't have full load rate.  Again why even chance it? Maybe it's working fine for. You but I'd rather be way over weight load then close to it. 

     

    Your limit in the back is about 4800 not 5200.

    20160930_114920.jpg

  9. 6 minutes ago, jdemaris said:

    In that photo - the Chinook is loaded with a of stuff right now and the tires only have 32 PSI in them.  I don't know what you mean by "bigger tires" in "newer" RVs.  Bigger how?   The 185R-14C in D range greatly exceed any weight any Toyota RV can have legally.

    Also the passenger tires I bought have no dually rating on them meaning they were never intended a dually setup. 

  10. Just now, jdemaris said:

    In that photo - the Chinook is loaded with a of stuff right now and the tires only have 32 PSI in them.  I don't know what you mean by "bigger tires" in "newer" RVs.  Bigger how?   The 185R-14C in D range greatly exceed any weight any Toyota RV can have legally.

    I edited it but not fast enough ha. I ment the 185/14. 

    They weigh 4k dry add full tanks kitchen stuff and your pushing the limit of those tires. 

    Chinooks have far less frame and wall to carry around. Smaller amenities etc. I don't see the point in being cheap about tires they are all that's between you and the road. Bigger homes need the tougher tires. 

  11. 14 minutes ago, jdemaris said:

    I took a photo this morning of the tires on my 1978 Chinook. Full-floater rear with 195/75-14" tires from Walmart.  Douglas Xtra-Trac II.  44 PSI rated tire.  Note no "P" in front and not "LT" in front either.  Who knows?  Whatever they are - they have been great tires and less then $50 each.  My 1985 diesel 4WD  Isuzu truck has had a set on it for 6 year now and been greatly overloaded and driven most of the time off-road. No problems.

    Tire sidewalls look pretty close on the bottom.

    my duals.jpg

    That's on a Chinook though not as heavy as newer toy homes. The back 195/75/14 tires I replaced on my 86 New World had certainly been touching. The writing from one tire was imprinted on the other. 

    Newer homes should have the 185/14 tires no question in my mind. 

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