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fleamarketeer

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Posts posted by fleamarketeer

  1. The front roof seam on my Toy where the fiberglass and aluminum meet needs attention. I poked around the net and Eternabond is talked about often. Nobody in the area seems to carry Eternabond, Camping World has some different choices, but expensive.

    I stopped by Home Depot and they do not seem to have an equivalent or clone.

    I stopped at Mobile HOme Depot and they carry a couple different roof tapes, one of which is MFM peel an stick. Reading the directions for Eternabond and MFM they appear to be the same thing?

    Except Eternabond is $55 for a 4"X50' roll and MFM is $15 for a 4"X35' roll. I need about 7' so hate to spend the money for 50'!

    Anyone with any experience or opinions with this?

    http://www.mfmbp.com/purchase/store/tabid/81/ProdID/3/CatID/1/Peel_and_Seal_PowerBond_White.aspx

    https://www.eternabond.com/

    jjrbus,

    I've used the silver/aluminum faced version on several houses with excellent results. My Home Depot didn't carry the white. The last time was 3 years ago to seal a horizontal lap joint in steel/aluminum at the top of a boxed in manufactured chimney. No leaks so far. I was up there this summer for another purpose and all looked fine.

    At that same job I slid sideways a bit into a handrail. The result was a small crack or puncture in my fiberglass siding about the size of a matchbook. I cleaned the area with MEK or acetone and applied a "temporary" patch. Yep, it is still there.

    I hate to post anything but questions here as I don't have my toy box yet. But I have used the product - unlike the naysaying experts on camping world's forums.

    fleamarketeer

  2. Took a look at the Igloo 3.5 chest freezer, Calls for 4 inch of clearance side, top and back for proper operation. Do you have those clearances? Jim

    Jim,

    Thanks for checking

    No. The old cabinet face frame would almost touch one of the chest freezer's sides and then maybe a strong inch behind that. Top and back are good though. I think a bottom or rear coil unit would be fine with a fan to cool things.

    I'll keep looking. You never know what might turn up.

    fleamarketeer

  3. Thanks JD and Linda,

    I wasn't looking for any brand. A friend bought a pallet of scratch and dent reefers and this one had too many small issues on the front to be sold normally. I got a very good deal. I guess the heat is just trapped in the old built in's space.

    I do have it installed counter to the instructions, so I'm not really complaining. I'm exploring options. It does seem to work well on a MSW inverter but also seems to run more than "normal" if I'm plugged in.

    I'll keep looking. Maybe I can find something small with exposed coils. Ohio is so cold right now refrigeration is not an issue!

    fleamarketeer

  4. jdemaris

    Thanks for the informative post. I'm still looking for my Toybox while living solo in an older Class C on an 1991 E-350.

    My OE Dometic died this summer. Since I have a little solar and drive quite a bit, I picked up a smaller 2 door electric from Igloo. Not good for someone who boondocks 95% of the time. The sides get very warm (instructions do call for a LOT of side clearance I don't have) and just sucks power like there's no tomorrow. Does your chest freezer have an exposed "coil" thingy on the back or bottom I could cool with a fan or is whatever gets hot built into the sides like my little reefer? Maybe the very warm outside is making the unit cycle too much. I'd love to ditch this power sucker but can't find an affordable 2 way.

    I've also been seeing the articles about converted chest freezers- a guy in Australia comes to mind who published a schematic with latching relays (whatever those are) for the thermostat and the like. Complicated but the concept has always looked interesting.

    After black Friday one of the box stores had a small chest freezer for about a hundred that would have gone in my old opening. The salesman said newer units wouldn't operate if exterior temperatures were too high or too low like in a garage- or my motorhome. Any ideas as to why?

    Thanks again for a real hands on report. Much of what I see on most rv sites is just cut and paste crap from search engines that people claim as their own experience.

    fleamarketeer

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