cjac
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Posts posted by cjac
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I'm thinking that if I remove the material that is circled that the bag will have enough room to expand and the proportioning valve can be in the same position .
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I just done a prefit to see what I had to do and notice the bag was to close to the proportioning valve mount. I will put the bag back in and take some pics. Well when it stops raining. Off and on showers all day today
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I have the air lift 5000.
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Wow that gets big. I'm going to have to figure out something to make some clearence for the bag . What air pressure does that have in it? I see that your proportioning valve is mounted to the frame where mine is mounted to a plate that is welded to the frame. I will take a picture and post it .
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With all the things that you have done and it still running hot on the highway is baffling. Back in my dirt track racing days I ran the mini stock class these where 4 cylinders . ( pintos.,mustangs, vw rabbit ect) My engine had some mods done but nothing big anyway it was a fresh motor. The track was a 1/4 oval . Most of the cars where 4 speed manual transmission and we used 1st and 2nd gear at 7,000 rpm probably doing 50 to 60 mph . The engine was running a little warmer than it should like 220 to 240 degrees. I had a regular thermostat in and I took it out ,still running the same temp . Bought a bigger radiator ,still running the same temp . Put the thermostat back in still running the same temp. At this point I didn't know anything else to do but if I keep running at this temp I was sure to damage my motor . Got to talking to some other racers and they said that your coolant is not staying in your radiator long enough to disapate the heat from the coolant in other words your coolant is circulating to fast need to slow it down . Went to the hardware store and got some washers that would fit in my thermostat housing with different sized holes For The Coolant to flow through . After changing some out I found the right one. My engine ran at 190 degrees . I know your rpm isn't 7,000 at 60 mph but it sounds like a circulation issue coolant flowing to fast or to slow . Hope you get I figured out soon
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Do you know how much clearence is needed? Does the air bag expand out ? I can move the proportioning valve over about 1/2 then cut some of the plate to make about 1 inch clearance
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My 02 vw passat had STOP low oil on the instrument cluster , so I checked a few things , oil was to the full mark on the dip sick, change out the oil pressure senser I even cage the oil and filter same problem. So the next thing I did was to drop the pan and check the oil pump pickup tube .
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I think I have a problem. My brake proportioning valve is mounted on the backside of the plate that is close to the air bag . Will this be enough clearence?
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Purple dot 5 brake fluid what brand is and can you post a pic of the container
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I was changing my oil in my manual transmission and noticed that my clutch fork has a hole next to where the slave cylinder rod is . I guessing that a spring is needed for the return of the clutch fork? I'm not having any problems without the spring
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I adjusted the rear brake shoes and my brake pedal is Alot better. Will try to bleed again to make sure all the air is out . I will do the proportioning valve first than the LR RR RF LF . I was told that if you take a bottle of brake fluid put a hose in the bottle and connect to the bleeder valve with it open and pump the brake slowly will get the air out , do this to each wheel. Has anyone heard of this ?
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I preloaded the master cylinder and started bleeding from the LR RR RF LF but I didn't do the proportioning valve . I bought new master cylinder for the year of my rig (1984) but changed over to the 1 Ton rearend and the front end . Are the master cylinders all the same or different between the 1/2 and the 1 Ton models?
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After redoing my brake system my brakes feels spongy . This is what I've done. New master cylinder, new brake booster, new brake hoses, new pads, new shoes, new wheel cylinders, new brake fluid and bleed all the air out . The only thing that an't new is the calibers. My brake petal is about even with my gas petal before I feel resistance. This may be normal since I been driving my rig with a bad brake booster. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
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Where can I get a brake light replacment unit . Would like to be LED. I looked on ebay I didn't see any like this one. My lenses have reflect o light on them if thus helps. Thanks
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That's good news. Thanks for posting
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Yes Linda that's the one ! I will have to try it and post back . My work has been doing some cutting back because of some new management so my overtime is being cut out for now . I may have to wait on getting them ,have to take care of other things first .
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Was wonder if this is any good , it's listed on ebay . My rig is not set up for bags.
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Yes the nut that goes over the cone washer. Is it 33 ft lbs ?
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Does any one know the torque specs on the drive axle on the FF ?
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I went to Lowe's and this is what I found. It's self sticking and holds the sliding window nice and tight. Didn't use it for the top and bottom because I'm sure the window wouldn't slide. Just done the the bottom curve to the top curve of the window channel. It was 6 bucks. We don't use the slide window because it's usually too hot or too cold outside. Lol
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I will have to see if I can find it again. I do have hehr windows and called the rv place and they told me I would have to take the window out to get the part number. I may have to find a alternative
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I got a part of it out, I didn't see anything that looked like it on that website. In the window channel there is a groove on both sides that it fits in to. Is piece is hard and brittle.
Air ride
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
May be it has enough clearence now , if not I will have to eliminate the proportioning valve