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Everything posted by cjac
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With all the things that you have done and it still running hot on the highway is baffling. Back in my dirt track racing days I ran the mini stock class these where 4 cylinders . ( pintos.,mustangs, vw rabbit ect) My engine had some mods done but nothing big anyway it was a fresh motor. The track was a 1/4 oval . Most of the cars where 4 speed manual transmission and we used 1st and 2nd gear at 7,000 rpm probably doing 50 to 60 mph . The engine was running a little warmer than it should like 220 to 240 degrees. I had a regular thermostat in and I took it out ,still running the same temp . Bought a bigger radiator ,still running the same temp . Put the thermostat back in still running the same temp. At this point I didn't know anything else to do but if I keep running at this temp I was sure to damage my motor . Got to talking to some other racers and they said that your coolant is not staying in your radiator long enough to disapate the heat from the coolant in other words your coolant is circulating to fast need to slow it down . Went to the hardware store and got some washers that would fit in my thermostat housing with different sized holes For The Coolant to flow through . After changing some out I found the right one. My engine ran at 190 degrees . I know your rpm isn't 7,000 at 60 mph but it sounds like a circulation issue coolant flowing to fast or to slow . Hope you get I figured out soon
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My 02 vw passat had STOP low oil on the instrument cluster , so I checked a few things , oil was to the full mark on the dip sick, change out the oil pressure senser I even cage the oil and filter same problem. So the next thing I did was to drop the pan and check the oil pump pickup tube .
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I adjusted the rear brake shoes and my brake pedal is Alot better. Will try to bleed again to make sure all the air is out . I will do the proportioning valve first than the LR RR RF LF . I was told that if you take a bottle of brake fluid put a hose in the bottle and connect to the bleeder valve with it open and pump the brake slowly will get the air out , do this to each wheel. Has anyone heard of this ?
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I preloaded the master cylinder and started bleeding from the LR RR RF LF but I didn't do the proportioning valve . I bought new master cylinder for the year of my rig (1984) but changed over to the 1 Ton rearend and the front end . Are the master cylinders all the same or different between the 1/2 and the 1 Ton models?
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After redoing my brake system my brakes feels spongy . This is what I've done. New master cylinder, new brake booster, new brake hoses, new pads, new shoes, new wheel cylinders, new brake fluid and bleed all the air out . The only thing that an't new is the calibers. My brake petal is about even with my gas petal before I feel resistance. This may be normal since I been driving my rig with a bad brake booster. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
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Where can I get a brake light replacment unit . Would like to be LED. I looked on ebay I didn't see any like this one. My lenses have reflect o light on them if thus helps. Thanks
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I went to Lowe's and this is what I found. It's self sticking and holds the sliding window nice and tight. Didn't use it for the top and bottom because I'm sure the window wouldn't slide. Just done the the bottom curve to the top curve of the window channel. It was 6 bucks. We don't use the slide window because it's usually too hot or too cold outside. Lol
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I will have to see if I can find it again. I do have hehr windows and called the rv place and they told me I would have to take the window out to get the part number. I may have to find a alternative
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I got a part of it out, I didn't see anything that looked like it on that website. In the window channel there is a groove on both sides that it fits in to. Is piece is hard and brittle.