AbleThought

looks like ill be poking around with the multimeter... im stumped though... how does the starting batter get its charge??? the lug to the left ( or back ) has two leads one to the coach. one to the deep cycle battery. i get that. The lug in the middle leads to the alternator... i get that. the lug to the right ( or front ) is a ground that goes to the engine block... so how does the starting batter get its charge??? how is the alternator connected to the starting battery? thanks guys

hey guys still trying to figure this out. starting battery will not charge. my rader is a 83. i have a new altonator, voltage regulator, battery and both inline circut breakers that come off the duel battery charger. super stuck... now in omaha. any suggestions would be helpful i will try it all.

this it???

Hey all, me again lol. im loosing all of my lights... dash, break, everything. toyo keeps dying. at this point it wont start and fails auto parts store tests saying low voltage. battery charge is holding a charge according to them. i replaced the voltage regulator, altornator and a little circut breaker that is after the voltage regulator. what else could it be??

hey! my frige in my rader isnt working ( it felt weak since ive had it ) using on propane the pilot lights and stays lit. just wont get cold. on electric it doesnt get cold either even when plugged in. any ideas? the fuse in the distributor panel is fine. ( total bummer im about to leave for a 20 hr drive to midwest )

The - is hooked to the ground lug. The lug all the way to the bottom right with the white wire coming out of it.

How would I check that?

Just hard wired the converter in with a 20 Amp fuse. Tried both battery lug with online fuse and open lug. Same results. Converter led is still red indicating it's not getting enough power. what's going on.. What am I missing. I have a jeep with a 20 amp power outlet and it work fine in that even with the car off.

I'm going to do this!!!! That solves everything. I'll just get a 20 amp fuse and hardwire the thing in!

I may go get one. The only thing that kept me from doing that is I didn't think the panel could handle anything more than a 15 amp fuse. So I think my last question to figure this out is can I put a 20 amp fuse in the rader? Is that safe. I think my new plan is a 20 amp 12v outlet and 20 amp fuse ( I'm assuming slo-blow ) as long as that's safe to do in the rader... That sound like it will work and be safe?

Am I able to put a higher fuse in here? Is 15amps the max? If I were to go get a 20 amp outlet instead of my 12 amp would that work better? Is 20 amps to much for this panel?

Doesn't seem to help would the inline fuse work better?

Wired the thing into the open lug. I plugged my inverter in and the red indicator on the inverter is stating its not getting enough power to operate. Why is this? My inverter is a small 200-400 watt can't see why the battery can't supply this power most RVs have these 12v cig lighter type outlets that run off the battery don't they?

How can I determine if I have a fast or slow blow fuse? Nothing I'm looking at seems to have this info.

I think I'll look at my options at the hardware store. Thank you for your help

I think that's my plan thanks Derek

Hi all. I am noticing something and am not sure if there is a problem or this is how it's supposed to work but my deep cycle battery will not charge when I plug my 83 sunrader into power?? When I run the rader it does seem to charge. Is that how it's supposed to work? I'm still just using the basic setup.. Battery up front under the hood. Also it's a brand new battery.

Thanks for the info. So I should use a 10amp fuse then to be safe.

That clears things up so much thanks.

Sorry!! here is a picture of the back of the outlet box says 12 amp on it. thats why I thought it was a 12 amp outlet. Is that not right? i believe my panel is a 15 amp panel so yes all I was asking is if I should have a 12 amp or 15 amp fuse? Sorry if my terminology is off I'm just learning all this watts to amps to volts stuff and it's making my head spin. Just wanted to see if I have this right. The positive lead coming off the new 12v outlet should go under the respective fuse (to the left) and the ground wire wraps in with the others to the right where the white wire is coming from and lastly what fuse I should put in there. Sorry sorry if I'm being confusing.

Also the outlet I bought is a 12 Amp outlet. The distribution system however is a 15 amp system I believe as the RV power fuse is 15 amp and the 110w plug looks like a normal appliance plug. So my question is... should I have a 12amp fuse in the slot that's running my 12v outlet or a 15 amp fuse?

ok so the fuse to the left gets the positive wire and all the way to the right below the 30amp fuse is where I run the ground? Is that right? i just figured I wouldn't want current going through the panel if I'm working on it.

Hey! I am about to install a 12volt power outlet in my 83 19ft Sunrader. I would like to put it right by the fuze box. I have an open fuze so I'd imagine tieing it in right there would be easy enough. The distribution panel looks simple but I havnt really worked on something like this before. How do I shut off 12v power in the RV? Should I run into any problems running a 12v outlet from my distribution panel?

Hey all, I am about to sanitize my fresh water tank. Seems pretty straight forward. Bleach solution and water. My question is most of the tutorials I'm seeing have hot water heater bypass valves and I don't see that on my 83 Rader? Do you guys bypass the HWH some other way or just let it run through? Any other tips?

Ahh I see ok when you say "chimney" you do mean the vent on the side of the vehicle right? There is nothing on the roof that could be blocked right? Also you mentioned the blower could be stuck.. This has not been used for over 5 years.. Is there a way I could try unsticking it before repairing it?