AbleThought

@jim oh my I'm not sure how could I check that? I know that I have an inline universal fuel filter near the coach door which is the one I replaced last month... other than that I am unaware of any other screen / filter... where should I look?

Thanks @WME I'll try that. I'll replace the filter too. Anyone recommend a good fuel line cleaner? That seabreeze stuff seems to have a good rep.

Hi all could use some help so I don't get stuck in Los Angeles suburbs forever. I am having an issue with my 83 gas Rader where the engine seems to be loosing power when I push the gas pedal... almost as if fuel isn't getting there in time. Ill try to describe.. on a cold start ill start the car up and it sounds fairly normal. Pop it in first. If I push that gas normal it feels as though the truck wants to die out for a second then it goes. Sometimes I get sort of a popping sound and a bucking. The harder I push the pedal the more aggressive this is. This happens in every gear. Not just first. At all speeds too when I'm pushing that throttle. I am finding if I really baby that gas pedal it doesn't do it as frequently. after running for a while say an hour of driving it happens way less or not at all. *note back in April I replaced the fuel pump because it was leaking last month I replaced the fuel filter. I put a bottle of stp gas treatment which is a water remover and fuel booster on my last fill up thinking I got some bad gas in my travels. It said safe for all gas engines. I drove for over 2 hours on the highway and no change. What should I try? Any ideas?

Hey all, I have a pic attached. The fuel filter on my 83 Sunrader looks to be a universal one. Can anyone confirm? Was this a factory thing or a mod?

Can't find the booster

it was my understanding that when the master cylinder seal goes break fluid gets into the booster which eats away at the diaphragm and ruins it. So I figured I'd do both if I'm going to be replacing the cylinder.

@linda sSuper helpful! I'll pick this up at oriellys.. I found these two break boosters on that same site. http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/site/c/detail/OBH3/535175/01305.oap?year=1983&make=Toyota&model=Pickup&vi=1277197&ck=Search_Break+booster_1277197_5554&search=true&keyword=Break+booster http://m.oreillyauto.com/h5/r/oap/site/c/detail/OBH3/535156/01305.oap?year=1983&make=Toyota&model=Pickup&vi=1277197&ck=Search_Break+booster_1277197_5554&search=true&keyword=Break+booster which one do you think. Both discriptions are throwing me off as one has 4 wheel drive as a bullet point and the other says Except 1 ton as a bullet point.

Think your right. Not sure what to get though 1 ton or 3/4 ton

Hi! My break booster seal is leaking. I am going to need a new break booster and possibly a new master cylinder. I called the parts store and was getting pricing and they gave me two options a set up for the 3/4 ton pick-up a set up for a one ton pick-up I'm assuming mine is a 3/4 ton as that's what I'm riding on in the 83 Sunrader however is the one ton set up an option? If so would I benefit from it as I have a one ton rear end? Thanks ive included a pic of my mastercylinder / booster

Hey all about to do a deep cleaning of the Rader... its an 83. Ive gotten great advice from yall for the fiberglass part... bar keepers friend and zep floor wax.. what about the truck part. Im tempted to just grab any old wash and wax but thought id check with you guys. I dont know much about 1983 car paint. So im looking for wash and wax solutions.. thanks

thats what i thought too. great ima pick these up... thanks

i can get these locally https://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetailsServlet?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Y356&partnum=8R43568 Should I go for these? they look to check out but though id see what you think.

oh good info. when you say the old tires with 90 are passanger tires do you mean thats what i should be looking for weight wise or are you saying they arent "heavy duty" enough?

Hey All, I got a flat and am thinking its time for new rubber. I have an 83 19 foot Sunrader. What are you all using? My Tire codes are 185 R14 90 S... Tire store says thats an obsolete code and doesnt know what to put on. I do alot of driving. year round toyo-dweller. highway driving from gig to gig? thanks all.

you are all just confirming what i thought to be true.. use what is says in the owners manual... doy. okay nobody thinks carb cleaner is a good idea either huh?

Hey all, had a mechanic tell me that if i started using high octain gas it would keep everything clean in my carborator and motor and give my truck a little more power. He also recomended dumping in some good carborator cleaner once a month. what are you guys doing? what kind of fuel do you use? what about ethenal? should i avoid a station that uses 10% ethinal in there fuel? more power sounds quite tempting but i was always under the impression that engins are designed to burn one type of fuel...

i managed to find a piece of the wire i was missing so now i know the gauge wire i need however i am unclear on one thing. is the fuse wire a different kind of wire? if so where would i get it? or is it the standard awg wire? pictures below thanks so much guys i think i'm close to a fix!

i understand. so should i be "fusing" both sides? in other words i believe the wires at the female side are 8 guage (the white one) and the black is 10 gauge. so... should i be fusing both sides ( putting in a 12 gauge at male end of the harness before the white wire and 14 gauge before the black? or... should i only be fusing the negative side... so keeping the positive lead 8 gauge and putting in a 14 gauge before the black ( 10 gauge )?

here is a bit of a clearer picture... photo A these are the two wires coming off of the female side of the harness. photo B here is an inside view of the female side of the harness that was in photo A.. *note this is still connected to the truck and is not the broken piece. photo C This is what broke.. the male end of the harness! *note i drew is an additional wire. it had two wires coming off the harness .. a green one (as you see) and a red one (the one i drew). they had the same type of connectors on the "harness side" and both wrapped into the same loop connector that is at the termanal side.. *side note i compared the thickness of the wire to some at the hardware store and it looks like 14 gauge.. photo D this is where the loop connector attached to the positive terminal on the driving battery. again both wires combines into the same loop connector. photo E this is just more of a birds eye view of the whole picture. question is .. is this a fusable link? if so would i have to replace these wires with aftermarket fusable links? *side note i checked my aternator and its a 45 amp. if this is not a fusable link can i just bypass this harness? ultimatly how can i fix this? thanks so much appreciate all the help

this sounds about right! i probably need to get an aftermarket one at this point right?

ok i see. are you able to tell me if the harness i am holding in my hand is the fusable link? or if its just a connector of sorts i could bypass.

Hey guys. I had an issue a while back where the alternator wasn't charging the battery. I traced the issue to a wire that came off the top of the positive driving battery terminal that became a harness. if you take a peek at the picture it may be a little clearer. the lug on top of the terminal that the green wire i am holding is touching is where this connected originally. two wires came off of this that went into the same harness. the wire missing is the one that was frayed so i took it off as originally i was going to try to repair the harness. my question is can i just bypass this? is it a fuse? i don't see anything in there other than wires connecting but then why does it exist if it's essentially not necessary? thanks so much. my rig is an 83 sunrader

thanks for all the advice guys.. I found the problem the wire on the positive teminal the leads to the b1 lug on the osolator was split plus the voltage regulator i got from autozone was doa. made it very tough to diagnose with the combo of firstly no voltage then way to much voltage but i figured it out. getting a conce 13.80- 14 volt charge now. at the moment i have the wire taped. the wire attaches to a harness which i cannont find anywhere so im going to have to get new wire and split open that harness to replace it.

this is super helpful. thanks so much. still confused as to why the b2 lug on the isolator leads to a bolt on the side of the engine.

okay this all makes sense. here is whats confusing. b2 is connected to a bolt on the side of the engine??? thats whats confusing me... it doesnt lead anywhere as far as i can see. should there be a lead coming off that bolt to the other battery?