AbleThought

Where is your sticker located? I wonder if I have one. overall concensus is my tires are way under inflated lol.

Hey guys. Can someone explain the above mention of tire psi being 40 front and 45 rear? I have all mine set at 36 as that's the recommended according to the chart on my door. 83 sunrader 6lug rear 5 lug front. These are what I have. 6ish months old https://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetailsServlet?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Y356&partnum=8R43568

Sorry guys I found the answer to my question.. I suppose I'll leave it in this thread for others. According to this thread http://www.yotatech.com/f114/aisin-carb-1983-model-vacuum-diaprham-229950/ on an 83 this line is kept open unless you have AC... so needless to say that is not my problem either. I believe it is the actuator according to the diagram... bummer I really thought I found my problem. Back to the drawing board.

Hmmm my EGR valve seems to be behind the engine block right next to the Vacuum Modulator. Here is my diagram from under the hood. I've located egr valve and vm. ruled them out. These things are so confusing. The second picture is a zoomed out shot of the same place for reference.

Hey all I think I found a vaccume leak. Does anyone know what this is and where it's supposed to lead?

I was also thinking of seafoaming. From what I gather on a carb engine 1/3 of the bottle goes in the tank. 1/3 gets sucked into the vaccume line and 1/3 down in the carb.. is that right? Anyone do this before? Positive results?

Thanks Jim. Appreciate it.

Replaced ignition coil. It felt so much better. Drove for a while with no problem. Then it happened again. Just once so far in 1st pushing rpms. It seems as though it has something to do with the spark! Every time I replace something in line it seems to be fixed for a while. Then it creeps back and gets worse and worse. Again wires, plugs, cap, rotor and ignition coil all replaced so far. Have not swapped out ignitor yet. It's very expencive. Just shy of 300 as far as I can tell. Any way to test this? Any other ideas?

Just tested the Egr valve and vaccume module using this method... it all seems to be working as it should. When I T in I get vaccume while pushing the throttle. When I go straight into the VM and add pressure it stalls the truck.

So with the plug wires came the ignition wire so that got replaced. **note I got 6 wires with my set 4 plug wires and ignition wire... what's the last one? I think it's an additional ignition coil wire as boots are both 90 degrees on the extra but thought I'd make sure I'm not missing something. (Triple checked they are the right wires from oreillys) I have not been able to check the fuel pressure.. don't have access to that equipment at the moment. if exhaust was plugged would I only feel that when I'm pushing the trucks throttle? Start up seems fine. I have not done valve setting and timing. I am not sure how to do this is it hard? Sounds scary. ignition coil /ignitor sounds like a thing to replace and check. Easy swap out?

Ok so coach straight to battery then wire from isolator to battery... where do the breakers come in? One in between coach and battery and one in between isolator post and battery?

New isolator got the batteries charging. I get about 15v at center post. 14.07 at driving battery 14.3-14.5 at coach battery.. that sound normal?

This problem has come creeping back. Slowly then got bad again. Bizarrely when I did plugs, wires, cap and rotor it felt like my truck again. Ran it for a couple hundred miles no problem. Now it's back. here is what I have replaced so far in the last week spark plugs spark plug wires distributor cap rotor fuel filter both belts voltage regulator Fuel pump was replaced 6 months ago. I'm so stumped. Any other ideas? Carb seems to be shooting a good amount of gas in it when I inspected it. It starts up fine. Feels good. When pushed to higher rpms it jolts then will go. power is weaker that it used to be only way I can describe is it feels clogged?? It makes me just want to give the gas a good push but last time I did that it made it worse. Seems worse on cold starts. When it warms up it happens less frequently

Nope how it's wired in mine is positive battery post to circuit breaker to left isolator post to circuit breaker to coach... is that not right? I have been struggling with this since I bought the truck... it always seems off so I wouldn't be surprised if it's wrong. I attached a pic with diagram in blue

At the very least I'm getting it at Oreillys which will take it back as a return if I still have the same issue but I'm not sure if it's ok for my truck. I it's rated for 70amps and i only need 30 so I would think it's ok but I don't really know much about them tbh other than it is supposed to charge two batteries

The wires go exactly like you said. Post on left side of pic goes to the coach battery. post to the right goes to the cab battery. Center post is the altinator. The extra wire on center post is a cable I had to run to the center post to charge cab battery as it was not charging and there is a dead wire in factory wiring. It had a inline fuse near battery terminal. it did work at one point. I had a spout of electrical problems a while back and has not worked since then. I've had to bypass to get by. My original issue was a faulty voltage regulator. if I revert back to factory wiring I get left and right sides no voltage. Center post altinator voltage(about 14.5)

Hi all, i believe by duel battery isolator has kicked the bucket. I get zero volts from either side posts. Center post gets altinator 14.5 ish volts. I've had to hook my battery up to center post to charge it. Two questions.. 1 does this sound like a dead isolator to you? 2 O Reilly's has a duel battery isolator in stock (image and specs attached) will this one work? If not what should I be looking for? thanks so much

Full tune up did it... found a broken ignition coil wire in distributor cap at the tip. Did full cap, rotor, plugs and wires and its running like new ?. Thanks for all the help and saving my butt again.. btw.. been documenting my travels in the rader on YouTube if anyone wants to check it https://www.youtube.com/user/ablethought thanks a million Able

Ok so I started messing around with the spark plug wires and the plug wire on plug 1 fell off! Somehow the top of the spark plug unscrewed in the boot! I replaced all the plugs. So now... the truck does not seem to be loosing power any more. No more bucking however... it is running a little rough. It seems to rock back and fourth a bit more than it used to. I can feel it in the stick to.. feels like it's rocking side to side and motor running a bit louder... any ideas? When the engine revs high in gears it feels normal but at a slower pace is when I'm hearing /feeling it... note I WAS feeling this before I replaced the plugs in conjunction with the power loss.

That's pretty scary!

Is it possible I have 2 filters? The one I changed is a universal filter located about where you said but mines universal not the toyo filter.

LA is the worst place to get stuck ugh hills and traffic... I guess in the middle of nowhere might be worse. Still quite bummed and nervous.

@Maineah I checked. I'd say I'm getting a healthy shot of fuel in there. I could see it rush in pretty clearly. Heard it too. I attached a picture as well. Any other ideas?

No one thinks it's anything like the spark plugs or wires or cap and rotor right?

Maybe that might be the bucking I'm feeling. Is there any way to test? I have no knowledge of carbs but you are correct with the engine type.