AbleThought

this is how i thought it was supposed to be run with the switch over from isolator to alternator.. lindas idea was different from this though and she said she had the schematics.

ok yes and you tapped into the wiper from the fuse box right for the “key on” voltage? would love to see a pic of that! thanks so much.

why do they refurr to this as an isolator and it says at the bottom “ contains solenoid NO “ i think this may look the same but be different from what i have. mine is a continuous duty solenoid.

what do you think of the alternator on top lug setup with no tapping into fuse box

i see! id love to have that origonal solenoid scematic for future refference. have a pic of that?

i am also starting to question the solenoid i chose?? https://www.westmarine.com/buy/bep-marine--85a-continuous-duty-solenoid--17952045?recordNum=2 what do you guys think? amperage wise the idea is to have it higher than the alternator at its continuous amperage?

oof now im crazy confused ? from my understanding a typical solenoid setup would be coach batt on one side and start battery on the other. top 2 post are for ground and a keyed auxillary to power it. that typical setup assumes the alternator is connected to the start battery. since i have no spare fuses i was going to tap the wipers for the aux plug. ive never heard of the alternator on top lug scenario.. thats confusing.

Im confused. how can i use a breaker? the fuse tap is to tap into the wiper motor line... i wouldnt know how else to tap into it other than the fuse box. as far as my line to the coach and line between the solenoid and coach battery i will have breakers there.. the ones that are in the truck from isolator setup.. 30 amp i believe but could be wrong gotta check on that. good news on the alt and truck battery line seems to be the cleanest way to me.

so here is the plan... see if yall approve then ill do it. ( pic 1 is solenoid hookup / pic two is fuse tap plan ) it should be ok to take the alternator wire ( currently on center lug of isolator ) and starting battery wire and put them both on solenoid lug right? as for the positive lug on house battery i can just keep 30amp breakers in between solanoid and house and house and load panel right?

any recomendation on wire size btw?

i see!

i see what was the reason your wiper motor stopped working on high? will i hit the same snag?

Hi guys! I'm going to install an isolator to charge the house. My rig is a 83 Toyo Sunrader. first question i have is where is the best place to tap into the ignition? second is i was going to fuse between the driving battery - solenoid and between the solenoid - house battery with ANL fuses.. am i using the output amperage of my alternator to determine those fuses? thanks all. look forward to showing you guys my remodel. It's days away from completion.

how would i regulate that though? what if my alternator is running at say 14.7?? wouldnt that have to be regulated to hit the 14.2 -14.4 on the gel battery? also how can i get a charge from the alternator to float charge voltage?

this is it

Ill look into what my charge voltage is but was told again today by renogy that the alternator will fry the gel Renogy Numb-a if anybody feels so inclined 909-287-7100

The one in my plans does have a built in BMS http://www.lifebluebattery.com/order-lifeblue-lithium-rv-battery/300ah-lifeblue-lithium-rv-battery.html

I called Renogy and talked to one of their technicians and thats what they told me. i will however try again as it boggles my mind too. maybe i chatted with a rookie or something.

I have yes and was told it would by lifeblue manufaturer.

According to the manufacturer it cannot be charged with the alternator https://www.renogy.com/renogy-deep-cycle-pure-gel-battery-12-volt-100ah/

90 AH i believe. heavy bugger. renogy battery. Correction 100AH https://www.renogy.com/renogy-deep-cycle-pure-gel-battery-12-volt-100ah/

hey Linda i will take advantage of both with my lithium setup but the gel cell i currently have cannot be charged with the alternator according to the manufacturer. renogy. so im stuck in the middle of ditching the opd setup and getting the new one.

yeah basically if thats safe to get me by a month thats probably the easiest .. as long as its safe to keep the battery charging (im going to ditch the battery with the new setup) its safe to have the battery under constant charge and not being used?

yes yes i have a gel cell in the coach at the moment that cannot be hooked up to alternator as it cant handle the amperage from the alternator. eventually this will be replaced with a lithium setup. im stuck between a rock and a hard place to be honest. i am remodeling the camper and plan to install the lithium pack in the coming months (quite pricey saving my pennies almost there) i had a gel cell running off solar in the coach plus and seperatly had the coach battery in the engine bay running the lights, pump and such. with the remodel i plan to ditch the coach battery in the engine bay and old load panel for new panel and was going to run off just my gel cell until i can pull the trigger on the lithium. annoying part is i cant run the gel off the alternator but i can run the lithium off the alternator so im trying to figure out a temporary solution for now with gel then convert to the lithium. does that make cents? i suppose the easiest solution would be to just keep the coach battery hooked to the solenoid until lithium but not sure if thats ok. can i just keep the coach in and charging without running the power off the isolator to the coach.. in other words have nothing connected to the coach isolator post? sorry for the long winded reply lol

thanks! I will but it will be in the coach running off of solar panels for now then lithium set up with solenoid down the road.