AbleThought
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Posts posted by AbleThought
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does anyone have an 83 2wd 22-r that would be willing to take a picture of their alternator plug for me? green plug. this is my third alternator and third voltage regulator and something is still wrong! voltage regulator smoking. just need to see the F N E plug and verify this is what its supposed to be.
Lt blue to N
green to F
black to E
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11 hours ago, linda s said:
Sounds like you got a bad alternator. Another member had to go through 3 before he found one that worked properly. Take it back
Linda S
I was afraid of that. Thanks Linda. Have you heard of people recommending not buying the alt from a parts store but instead a rebrushed alt from toyota? Im curious why people seem to be adamant about that ?
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Hey all, hope all is well. My 83 toyo sunrader batteries aren't charging. Ive replaced the alternator, voltage regulator, checked the fuse box ( don't seem to have a charge fuse), the duel battery relay. I also checked the fusable link at the driving battery +post, which is fine and i cleaned up all the grounds I can find… what else is there?!? I am getting just battery voltage 12.5v at alternator posts. What else can I try? both batteries are not charging at all.
22-r motor… carbie
Thanks!
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On 3/15/2022 at 2:08 PM, thewanderlustking said:
Able, there are two main ways to approach this conversion.
1) The hard, but (in my opinion) slightly better way. You will need a "spy network" to find a donor truck. Suitable donors are, as Linda said, any 87-92 Toyota RV. Also there are some utility and haul trucks that were made with full floating rears and dually wheels all around.
I won't go into extreme detail here (unless you ask for more), this isn't a hard approach for a lot of us, but it takes some SERIOUS preliminary leg work. I think it took me one a year to find the donor truck, and it was my boss that happened to be at the junkyard at the right time and actually gave me the next day off so I could go get everything!
Why is this better? It converts the front brakes to larger rotors and calipers and puts factory parts on it. Again, this is FOR ME. It only took me about 10-15 minutes a side to strip down and pull everything I needed. Putting it back together later that night took on my truck was maybe an hour.
2) Get GOOD adapters. The ones Linda posted up look phenomenal. I suspect the price tag matches too though. I am going to guess they are $300-400. Cheap adapters are DANGEROUS. So you need to be SURE you are getting quality. These are proven, go with them.
Both of the above solutions also have a problem to solve, wheels. You can't find the correct dually wheels easily, and you will need/want 7 matching ones. The first solution will HOPEFULLY still have a full set of 6, if lucky 7 wheels. Getting the spare down without the crank tool SUCKS though... You have 4 wheels, so in theory you just need 3 more. I mean going through all this trouble and not having a spare is almost pointless.
Again finding the wheels will take time. (I do have two sitting here in need of a good home still.)
This isn't a cheap conversion either. I did all the work myself INCLUDING mounting and balancing my tires, it was $1300. This is with me getting tires at cost, pulling all the parts myself, and installing them too. With the hourly rate for mechanical work climbing up RAPIDLY and most shops now at to over $150 and hour, that's easily $600-800 saved... This is the point where putting the adapters on would defiantly save money over the front end conversion, if you can't do that yourself.
Anyways if you are interested in more details of that front end swap, let me know. It is on my list of things I should do write ups on.
Bigger breaks do sound nice! Ok so i think the best plan is to hunt for 3 wheels. I will remember you have two but i do need that third because you are right, it is silly to do this work and not have any spares. Wherever i find wheels is probably a good place to investigate other parts. Hey it might be tough but i found a 1 ton back end and 4 of these only 5 years ago so not impossible. Where about you are in the world? shipping these bad boys probably isnt cheap.
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21 hours ago, linda s said:
If you're talking about the wheels, they need to be Toyota dually wheels, 6x7.25 lug pattern. If you're talking about the adapter it needs to be 5x4.5 lug pattern to 6x7.25 lug pattern. i know other places have made then but I don't know anyone near you. Custom and Commercial has been making them for 30 plus years.
Linda S
The key is 6 lug dually wheel. Not regular wheel. 14 inch 6 lug TOYOTA DUALLY
Got it yes i was talking about the wheels. I saw the ones you mentioned that where on an 83 4 runner. Just wasnt sure how many different 6 lug wheels came out then.
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23 hours ago, linda s said:
Just go to Custom and Commercial Wheel, call and ask how much for the AT100F adapters. Then all you need to find is a couple of wheels to fit. Trying to find the whole hub and chance the brakes would be close to impossible and on an 83 a difficult install. You don't need to worry about the adapter adding too much offset because the wheel is mounted so it goes in. Your wheel will still be centered over your bearings. The adapter space is required or your dually wheels would be hitting the truck frame
Dual Wheels — Custom and Commercial Wheel
Linda S
Looks like this place might have wheels
oh cool thanks Linda. Looks much easier than swapping parts..its been so long since i did my rear conversion i forget so much. the fronts I am looking for are 14x6 -6 lug right? I know 83 was a switch over year … is it only 82 and 83 that fit? .. just trying to think of how to approach a phone convo with the salvage yard and not mess up what im looking for.
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Hey all,
looking to swap my front 5 lug wheels to match my 6 lug 1 ton rear wheels on an 83 Toyo Sunrader.
What do I need to salvage? What should I be aware of? Any surprises that might come up?
Looking for any advice before I begin the hunt for these parts.
as always thanks!
Able
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23 hours ago, Derek up North said:
same kit as the one i was looking at. they just dont put the years. im going to try it.
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2 hours ago, Derek up North said:
Any 'tweeking' won't be to the air spring itself, which is what's covered by the warranty.
i see airlift seemed to be encouraging me to try them so sounds like it will probably work.
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4 hours ago, Bsunrader said:
I put air lift bags on my mh it is a 1978 sunrader it was one of the best things I did
what was the install like... did you get this kit?
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7242
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2 hours ago, linda s said:
Firestone fit almost all years and mount almost the same as airlift. Maybe it's just a liability thing because of the lifetime warranty. Bet they'll fit but of course the warranty will no longer apply.
Linda S
yeah i should ask about the warrenty being null if i tweak.
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17 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
I'm sure the Airlift kit will work fine on a pre-86. Just might have to do a little fabricating but probable with Firestone kit too.
60 day return if i have a problem they said too.
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1 hour ago, Bsunrader said:
I put air lift bags on my mh it is a 1978 sunrader it was one of the best things I did
remember the model number? how log have you had them on there?
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19 hours ago, Derek up North said:
Do another search for 'Airlift'.
i called airlift. they said they have one that fits 86-91 toyo mini motorhomes... mines an 83... 1 ton i have i believe was on a 92 Duely pickup... any thoughts on a model number airlift that might work?
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19 hours ago, Derek up North said:
Do another search for 'Airlift'.
lifetime warrenty sounds pretty good to me! thanks. I wonder if anyone has the origonal specs for factory wheel height on an 83 sunrader 18ft? how would i find that out?
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Hi all looking at airbags for the back of the 83 sunrader 18ft 2WD.
these firestone ride rites ( $321 ) ...(https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4594&gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6HaBRCbARIsAFDNK-gbt7dyHSDALB8cUgyDP9XBjnlvp4bwM00FuT_l4q0HL8ykJiMl_cMaAjEAEALw_wcB
... have been popping up often in my forum browsing and searches but thought id hear from you guys before pulling the trigger.. any thoughts? suggestions?
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17 hours ago, fred heath said:
Your start battery has a thermal link in the line. No need for a breaker. I have no cb between alternator and isolater. CB on load side of isolater going to coach battery.
One thing I did do was add a voltmeter to the coach side of the isolater so I have a “heads-up” if it ever stopped working.
thats really smart i may do the same
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16 hours ago, linda s said:
Yes I did. I just hate to see things that might be of use get thrown away. I just know the minute I do it will suddenly become exactly what I need.
Linda S
so true. i cracked my passangerside one.
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1 minute ago, linda s said:
Well I can no longer find my factory installation manual. Probably never made it back into my file when I did the replacement about 5y ears ago. Never had reason to look for it since. If you've got yours working and charging correctly then go with it. When I get the chance I will try to follow the wires in mine and document them
Linda S
okey thanks for the help as always. did you buy a couple fenders off some kids from portland by chance? i met them in phoenix and the forum came up. they mentions they sold there fenders to linda from the forum. small world.
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1 hour ago, WME said:
Solenoid NO, means its a solenoid idolator, "normally open". simply put it means that when there is no trigger voltage the solenoid is open and isolating the batteries from each other. When the engine is running the 12 volts to the small terminal triggers the solenoid, it becomes closed connecting the batteries and the alternator charges BOTH batteries
ahh i see. what do you think of lindas solenoid setup? alternator on top lug?
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1 hour ago, fred heath said:
Yes.
yes to my setup?
or yes to new breakers between alt / solenoid and start battery / solenoid?
i got it running now. voltage looks good. both batterys charging and wipers run just fine. just curious about adding the new breakers.
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7 minutes ago, fred heath said:
You’re making this more complicated than it needs to be. The white wire is from a scrap piece of wire to make the distance to the 1st big lug. It has nothing to do with factory color code.
Pretend you have no isolater. The wire that leaves the alternator goes directly to the truck battery usually through a thermal link close to the battery itself. Remove this wire from the alternator and extend as necessary using a similar gage extension wire (usually 12ga) to reach the 1st big lug on your isolater. Now fabricate a second wire (8 gage) that will go from the alternator output terminal and attach right along with the 1st wire already there. The wire going to the coach battery then gets attached to the rear lug. This completes your charge system. Add the ground and 12V supply(ignition) and your done.
got it.
did you put any breakers between alternator and solenoid or start battery and solenoid?
i am realizing your truck has(had) a different setup then mine. on my truck the alternator is already seperate from the start battery.
alternator ran to isolator.
start battery ran to isolator as well.
so if i just meet them on the solenoid its exactly what your saying to do. no need for extra wire.
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4 hours ago, fred heath said:
Your diagram above is how mine is wired. It allows the least amount of voltage drop from the alternator to the isolater. My 80 amp unit cost less than $20 and has worked fine for over 3 years.
Attached is the original mfg wiring diagram along with a picture of my install.
I disconnected the factory output wire from the alternator and attached it the the front lug(white wire). I then ran an 8 gage jumper from the alternator output terminal also to the front lug (red wire). The rear lug has a 8 gage wire running to the coach battery with a 30A resettable circuit breaker in between.
didnt the white wire come from your start battery? not your alternator?
currently with the origonal isolator i have
post 1 start battery
post 2 alternator
post 3 coach
if i swap that isolator out for the solenoid i would just move the alternator and start battery line to side post( left post in my picture )
and move coach line to other post on isolator.
then tap egnition and ground on top.
isnt that right? the white in your pic is start batt the red on same post is alternator and other red is coach.
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1 minute ago, fred heath said:
No, I couldn’t use the wiper supply because I lost my high speed function when I did. With the key on I probed various wires attached to old emissions components until I found one that was hot (I deleted all the emissions). Small yellow wire with inline fuse is what I use to power isolater.
i see i see thats right. ok. i have not deleted emisions yet so ill give wipers a try and see if it works.
Batteries not charging, Replaced many things.
in Electrical
Posted
Hi Fred, I do have a 6 wire voltage regulator, I have gone through 3 new ones in the past two weeks and am still getting high voltage at the batteries. also 3 different alternators. I cant figure out the problem. I think a good place to start is to test the voltage regulator to see if i keep getting duds or if there is something else wrong. would you potentially know what each lead specifically does? a schematic? or a way i can test the thing and see if its functioning properly? At this point im just throwing parts in here and cant pinpoint the problem. Im getting 17+ volts at batteries.