sherrie
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Posts posted by sherrie
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After further research with some engineers in the shop, I was advised if there are ways to lower amp draw to compensate for what the electric fan uses then the fan could yield 1.3 MPG as well as 2-3% power increase if properly installed.
So... LED marker lights, run on propane fridge or no fridge/no inverter etc; this might actually be a pretty good mod.
http://smile.amazon....ailpage_o00_s00
Only weaknesses verified purchasers noted were issues with the controller/thermo and water. maybe some extra caulking or epoxy on the controller could battle harden it to be more torrential rain proof... I want one of these I think.
Just a little note here. We definitely increased our gas millage from our first trip with the Fan Clutch and the Second Trip with the electric Fan. We went back to the same area so the driving was the same, still had the overheat problem both times, but we went from 10 MPG to over 13 MPG. Not saying all was due to the fan, but just thought I would throw it out there. We switched all the tail lights to LED and have had no battery problems. We run the refer on propane. But will watch for a electrical drain.
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I just received my 91 Toyota Truck Repair Manuals Volume 1 & 2 from a EBAY seller. I bought a Chilton's manual and was very disappointment. These are Great!
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I came across this radiator, thinking of buying it.
http://www.shepherdautoparts.com/all_aluminum_radiator/toyota/4runner/1989/3.0l_v6_182.html
I will consider the 3 row if the water pump does not fix!
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Can you post a pic-s of how your fan looks installed please
I like your idea a lot.
Mahalo
I had a video so I put it on Youtube
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if you keep throwing parts at it you will eventually fix it. A good mechanic makes an accurate diagnosis first.
Here is what I know:
1) the V6 cooling system can trap air - and you will overheat until it works it way out.
2) the stock thermostat has a jiggle valve which helps release air but that (releasing air by jiggle) is not fool proof by any means.
3) I would take out the thermostat for diagnosis purposes. After that when the engine is running (without the radiator cap installed) - you can see the coolant moving inside the radiator. It should rise from the hose on the passenger side and if the system is full you can see it moving from the passenger side to the drivers side. (time to remove thermostat - about 15 minutes)
4) yes spark plugs can affect how hot the engine runs - I use the ones that were put in by the factory, not substitutes. (NGK BKR5EYA). Doubt this is your problem but a "hotter" plug can have an affect.
5) Timing can affect how hot the engine runs too. Easy to check. Put the jumper on the correct pins in little box and use a timing light. Should take a KNOWLEDGEABLE mechanic 5 minutes.
6) if no antifreeze was run in the system for a long period of times the vanes on the water pup can deteriorate. Never seen it first hand but if you google that you can see photos. Water transfers heat better than antifreeze so some people in areas that never freeze (southern California) have done this.
All in all, my first guess is air in the system.
Thanks for the reply,
(1) It can not be air in the system because of the vacuum and pressure pump system that the Radiator guy used to inject the coolant. Then he did a pressure test on the system as well as checked all the hoses for collapse.
(2)I have boil tested 3 thermostat's had have a 180% working thermostat installed.
(3) We have watched the coolant move in the Radiator, but is it working properly and all the time? I don't know.
(4) Replaced all the Plugs they are fine
(5) Timing was checked it is fine
(6)Water Pump is next replacement - Keeping my fingers crossed this fixes it!
Thank you again for taking the time to respond - all the info is greatly appreciated!
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That seems to be a 1 row radiator. There are 2 and 3 row radiators available and I think the cab and chassis came stock with at least a 2 row. Weird that he told you a better radiator would have to be custom made. Not true. This is a very well made all metal 3 row radiator
Linda S
Huh? Maybe he meant available that morning in Saint George UT. As we told him we needed to get back to Vegas ASAP.
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JD , Would you get the one with the oil cooler or without. I don't think mine has that oil cooler now. All the 1991's show the cooler.
JC
Same goes for me regarding the oil cooler. Question: With or With-out/
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Can you post details on the radiator you installed? I need to pick up a new one.
Sorry I don't really have the details. Eric Armstrong from Armstrong Radiator 435 674-7767 might have more information. All he said was that it was the best stock radiator he could get to fit the 91 Toyota V6 3.0. All it says on the receipt is #1190.
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UPDATE! Took the Truck back to the mechanic and he did another leak down test when the truck was hot. NO Leaks! It has to be the water pump. ( I think it may now be leaking ) Any way I purchased a water pump and timing belt kit from Nappa auto parts. He will install on Friday this week. Timing was fine.
QUESTION? Should I go buy Toyota water pump and timing belt kit? The water pump has a metal propeller and the mechanic said the timing belt kit was fine. I just don't want any problems as the labor for this is more than the parts.
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" Installed electric Radiator Fan, 3000 RPM works great. "
I would like to do this with mine, which fan did you use, did you re-do the fan shroud, and what triggers the fan on/off???
TIA JC
I bought this one from Amazon http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GWJE7S?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Flex-a-lite 674 S-blade Engine Cooling Fan with Controls. It comes with a shroud that fits the radiator and works great. It was very easy to install and had very good installation instructions. I hooked mine into the Air conditioning wires (on with AC) as instructed and to the starter coil, so I can run it if the key is on Aux, but it turns off if the key is off.There is also an adjustment knob on the side so you can adjust the unit to come on at various temperatures. There is a temperature probe that you push through the Radiator. It was expensive but given Las Vegas Temperature and the overheating problem I was willing to try it. PS I also increased my gas millage after removing the fan clutch, so I think that may not have been working properly. -
With the kind of symptoms you describe - size is not going to be the issue. It's going to be a problem of coolant flow, air flow, or combustion gasses from a leaking head gasket. THAT assuming the RV is running well, has normal power, rolls fine (nothing dragging e.g. stuck brakes or burnt up wheel bearings). When radiators get "bad" and cause overheating - it's often from "solder bloom." This only happens with the older copper/brass core radiators. They get corroded internally and impede coolant flow. No real fix other then replacement. 30 years ago a good shop would remove the tanks and rod the core out and then solder back together. No very common anymore.
Poor coolant flow results in a rig that runs OK on the flats when air temps are 75 outside or less. Climb as hill and temp shoots way up. Of even on a flat road when air temps are 90 F and you try to do 60-65 MPH and the temp shoots up.
If it was mine - I'd check the water pump first. Doubtful it's the problem but still ought to rule it out. Slight chance the impeller could be eaten up from high acids in the coolant.
In ref. to having your coolant checked? There IS nothing to check except for hydrocarbons in the coolant and that test is only around 50% accurate. Yes, truck and diesel shops sell all sorts of coolant test strips to check for acid, sulfides, etc. but that is about engine longevity and cavitation - NOT overheating.
And timing? If your timing was so advanced you were overheating - the engine would be pinging something awful and likely burning up the pistons - even with high test. And if it was too retarded - it might run slightly warm and the gas pedal would not be as responsive as it should. I doubt timing is your problem.
Hi, Thanks for responding. I do believe it is the water pump also. Heading to the mechanic I will keep all posted.
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how was the old radiator? scaled up? rust?
just cuz vehicle has 50k miles does not mean it was not neglected.
The Radiator that was in the Truck, we were told was new by the previous owner. It looked new and when we removed it it was clean. We replaced it with a larger Radiator. The Radiator guy said that it was the best and largest stock Radiator available for the truck. ( he is a Toyota 4x4 enthusiast) He said if we want a bigger radiator he would have to custom make it. I left him with the old radiator - In case I decide to have a custom Radiator made. His off the cuff estimate to make a custom radiator was around $600.00. Since it would have to be brass and copper as he does not weld aluminum.
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So I called my Mechanic to schedule a new water pump and new timing belt and to check the ignition timing. He said he want to re-do the leak down test, I said why? He said he still thinks it is a blown head gasket! ? ? ? I said why - since the coolant - combustible liquid test was good, since the compression test was good, and since the first leak down test was good - why does he think it is the HEAD GASKET? He said that he did get 2 bubbles in the 4th cylinder when he first did the leak test, but he could not replicate these bubbles to me when I was there. ( I was there after 1.5 hours) He thinks maybe the head gasket only leaks when the engine is hot, so he wants to check it again when it is hot. I will let you know.
before you do anything take a sample of your coolant have it analyzed, I think it will cost $20, call around farm places like Cat dealership, Deere etc.There are online places like blackstone does it too but bit more expensive
What kind of test on the coolant? If it is the combustible gas test for a blown head gasket we did that and it passed - no combustible gas from a leaking head gasket. warped or cracked head in the coolant. Is there another test I should do on the coolant?
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I have new spark plugs already, bummer that would have been an easy fix
I have not had the timing checked, I will do this A.S.A.P, thanks -
Just purchased the 3100W Inverter. http://www.championpowerequipment.com/products/inverters/75537i-3100w-inverter/. Love it! So far it is very good, much quieter than the 2800 Onan Camp Power that was installed. I would say the Onan was like being next to a old gas lawn mower - very loud! the Champion is like a Blender. It is a noise but when you move away from it and close a door -it becomes hard to hear.
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Hi I just purchased a 1991 Toyota Winnebago Warrior with 50K miles. Had it inspected and mechanic said all was good. Took it on my first camp trip and it overheated? This is what I have done so far and it is still overheating. Radiator Caps twice, New Radiator, Expert Vacuum out the coolant and refill under pressure to remove air bubbles. Three Thermostats ( finally boil tested at last change and they were all good). I have a 180% thermostat installed. Installed electric Radiator Fan, 3000 RPM works great. Combustible gas tested the coolant- Passed no gas. Compression tested cylinders, 170 on 5, 150 on one. Leak down test at 100 PSI and no leaks. Weighed at end of trip and it weighed 6,640 Gross Weight . 640 over. It overheats worse going up hill, but will overheat all the time. Not the gauge because it is boiling hot. Not blocked because the guy who changed the radiator said that putting the coolant in under pressure would have reviled a blockage. He checked all the "new" hoses and said they were good. Not collapsing. We are looking at installing a new water pump and timing belt, even though the water pump is not leaking and appears to move the coolant. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated.
I have not had the timing checked, I will do this A.S.A.P, thanks
91 Toyota Water Pump Comparison
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted · Edited by sherrie
So I am replacing my water pump on my 91 V6 3.0 and bought the NAPA water pump and then ordered the AISIN water pump. I took a quick video so you could see the difference.
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