sherrie
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Posts posted by sherrie
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Red and green are not supposed to be compatible. I know that when I went from green to red that's when my radiator clogged up. I didn't flush thoroughly so they were mixed in there. Never had a heat problem before this so I think that was the cause
Linda S
Wow that supposedly top Toyota place used green. I'm very surprised at that.
Thanks Linda, So that is at least one more person that thinks this may have been a contributing factor to my never ending overheating issue. The owner at Precision Performance told me that he did not like the Toyota Red coolant that it created a white buildup that was hard to remove.
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After having my Head Gaskets replaced at a Toyota Dealership my Winnie was returned to me with Red Coolant in the Radiator. When it was still overheating I took it to a Mechanic to have a larger Radiator installed, The mechanic came out and asked if it okay with me if they use Green Coolant, I said sure makes no difference to me. After having the new radiator installed I took it for a test drive and it overheated worse than before the newer bigger radiator? I decided to drain the existing "Green Coolant" to try a product called "Water Wetter" by Red Line. In the process of draining the coolant I discovered that there was still "Red Coolant" in the system. Not only did the red and green not mix, they stayed separate. I got green coolant from the radiator and red coolant from the block. Now I wonder if this issue with the red and green coolant being used together may have been why I continued to overheat, or if the new Distilled Water and "Water Wetter" is really why I am now not overheating? Does anyone have experience that may lead to a conclusion?
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Plain water will cool better than an antifreeze/water mix. BUT it will boil at a lower temp. So its a balancing act. Most folks use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water.
10-15% and WW would be about right. IMPORTANT a 12lb radiator pressure cap will do more to raise the boiling point than the 50/50 mix. Make sure yours is a good one.
Exhaust... Does NV have an smog inspection ? If it does, your stuck with a stock system at least back to the cat converter, then you can do a low restriction system.
Nevada does have a Smog Inspection - So I just tell the Muffler shop to replace as is? I have had 2 estimates from the engine to the tail pipe, both are around $500.00.
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Well, yes fix the overtemp. Next fix the exhaust.
UBI, The v-6 has a funky exhaust setup on the engine, the crossover runs across the rear of the engine. It gets the rear cylinder HOT, causing valve wear. Check to see if duals can be done or at least get the crossover out of the engine bay.
Several folks with the v-6 have changed the rear axle ratio. They all very happy with results.
Hi WME, Can you please give me some more info on what I should say when I go for a estimate on the exhaust system. How do I explain what I want changed? Will the exhaust manifold need to changed? Looked at this in the manual and I could not figure it out. Will I need 2 catalytic converters if they install duals?
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10-16-15 Friday. So today I did a few more things to the Winnie and So Far So Good. I did my Mount Charleston test run and DID NOT OVERHEAT! First thing I did was take off the Trim piece below the bumper ( it was all bent up anyway). Then I took off the plastic grill cover over the Radiator. I went out and bought the Infra Red laser Temp gun, and then 5 gallons of distilled water and a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. I then drained all of the coolant from the system, Flushed with the water hose, flushed with distilled water - filled with distilled water and the Red Line Water Wetter. Burped the system and went for my standard drive up Mount Charleston - Surprise, Surprise - I did not overheat! Not sure what all of this means except I will feel better about the Winnie when I go to sleep tonight. Here is a Youtube video. https://youtu.be/5EvVlB4YJtA
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I don't like to throw things at a problem without knowing the root cause. I know, but at this time, with out tearing the engine apart I don't know what to do.
Sherrie, you have a tiny tranny cooler in front of the a/c condenser.
Pls buy a laser temp thing and gun the atf cooler, radiator (from the engine side) and tell us what the temps are when the truck overheats.
What gear are you climbing uphill? With the OD off, at 40 to 45 mph I think it is in 3rd. If I take it out of OD and leave the lever on "D" is that 3rd?
I do mine in d3, I have turned my OD off and it drives fine and I can up to 62 mph without the engine being too noisy on my 22re 4 cylinder. I will buy the Laser temp gun tomorrow when I return the sprayer tank to Harbor Freight, I am going to do a test run with a soaked swap cooler pad so I can take temp reading again at that time.
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After being so disappointing with the new Radiator I decided to try the mister thing - figuring if I am going to need a new engine I might as well drive this one for as long as I can. I needed something I could rig up - but return if it did not work. I found this tank with a 12 volt pump and a sprayer at Harbor Freight. Rigged it up and did my Mount Charleston test drive. IT WORKED! I don't know what that means for the Winnie - but at least I have a way to keep the temperature down and might get a few miles out of it before it burns up. I will rework the system to be a more stable fix and let you know what happens. For those who are interested here is my latest youtube. https://youtu.be/iBtAz57KyOc
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On 10/12/2015 at 10:23 PM, WME said:
Well, yes fix the overtemp. Next fix the exhaust.
UBI, The V-6 has a funky exhaust setup on the engine, the crossover runs across the rear of the engine. It gets the rear cylinder HOT, causing valve wear. Check to see if duals can be done or at least get the crossover out of the engine bay.
Several folks with the V-6 have changed the rear axle ratio. They all very happy with results.
"Several folks with the V-6 have changed the rear axle ratio. They all very happy with results." Would this effect the overheating?
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10-14-15 UPDATE, Had the CSF #2057 Radiator Installed today. It is still Overheating. I actually think it is a little worse. The mechanic says he wants me to bring the Winnie in on Monday night and leave it with him. The first thing he is going to do is an overnight pressure test. He says he will fill it with high pressure and then check it in the morning. If any coolant is leaking into the cylinders he will be able to tell with this test. I thought maybe a air bubble, so I tried to burp it but got no bubbles. He said he lifts the front and uses an overfill funnel to put the coolant in. I am so disappointed. Oh and no gunk from the head sealers- (liquid additive), either in the coolant that was drained nor in the radiator that was removed. Clean - no Gunk.
So Frustrated! -
Sherrie - I seems to me you've approached this problem in a logical way. Especially when posing the question of fixing the excess heat problem versus enhancing the cooling system to deal with it as sort of a "Band-Aid."
A few (more) comments.
Things we as spectators do not how that COULD be a factor. Like driving it excessively hard, maybe having more-then-normal transmission heat that goes right into the engine cooling system, etc.
It seems you've gotten beyond the obvious fixes so now I guess you need to dig deeper.
Does the vehicle seem to drive ok with no abnormal drag? Is gas mileage about where it should be (13-15 MPG)? No abnormal drag, breaks and tires never seem to be excessively hot. I get 13 mpg last time I checked.
Do you drive most of the time in overdrive or not? Note that OD is likely to make it work harder and create an abnormal amount of heat. I take it out of OD when going up-hill.
I'm not trying to insult your intelligence. I also don't know if this is your first Toyota RV and no others to compare with? First Toyota RV. No insult taken
I met a woman . . OK let me stop. I met a man AND a woman but the woman did all the talking and the driving. They, as a couple has just bought a Toyota RV with an auto trans. They had NO prior experience with anything close. They had only had it a few weeks when I met them. She had mentioned that they liked its size but said it was slow, not very good on gas mileage (11 MPG), and ran hot much of the time. After talking with her -I realized she had it in OD all the time and drove near everywhere with the gas pedal nearly down to the floor - in an effort to maintain highway speeds of 65-70 MPH. It was amazing to me that the poor thing wasn't burnt up yet. This is an extreme case but not unexpected for someone who have drove an underpowered, overloaded vehicle before. My Husband and I both drive the Winnie and we both enjoy the slow ride. We usually cruise on the Highway at around 50 mph. The Winnie is running so well now with all the work done - it drives easily at 50 mph. It can go up to 65 mph but you can tell it does better at a lower speed. As stated before it only runs hot now if we go up hill.
I'm not accusing you of driving like this, but I'd like to know if you've been driving in OD or not. It can make a huge difference in hot weather since OEM, your rig does not have the proper gearing to use OD. We usually leave it OD all the time unless going up hill, Is this not correct? And what about the ECT? Seems to give a power boost but really sucks up the fuel.
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UPDATE 10-12-15. Visited with Jeff Korhonen of Precision Performance the reputed Toyota Guru of Las Vegas this morning. I laid everything out to him. All the work, all the thoughts - all the possibilities suggested. He listened and then he said he wanted to wait for the vehicle to cool and he would drain some of the radiator fluid out ( to inspect the fluid and inspect the radiator) and think about this problem. After considering everything his recommendation is - - drum roll - - - put in the CSF Radiator # 2057 in. He checked out the exhaust system and checked for vacuum leaks - It needs a new muffler and has no exhaust leaks. He said it is running very good and although he can not guarantee this will resolve my problem - he does believe the radiator that is in the vehicle is two small for the hard driving of hauling 6000 lb up hill. He is ordering the radiator and we should have it in a couple of days. So I stopped at a couple of Muffler shops on the way home and they want $500.00 to replace everything from the engine to the tail pipe. I might wait on this until I know that the overheating issue is resolved. Thank you - everyone for continuing to consider my problem and give me suggestions. By the way outside temp today is 87% F and I drove the Winnie all around town for the last 3 hours. In traffic, doing errands, with the AC on and the temp never even reached 1/2 way mark. I sure hope this new radiator solves my problem.
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Sometimes website rules make no sense. I could copy and paste it to the 86 to 95 area if you like? Jim
Wouldn't hurt! Might as well keep getting as many ideas as possible. I was able to get under the Winnie last evening and look at the exhaust system. It does look like original and there is at least one hole in the muffler. I think there might be a small crack in the pipe closest to the engine. I will see if the mechanic can check it out. At this point I might just do the exhaust system as it does seem to need attention.
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You have replaced everything in the cooling system twice. If it were my vehicle I would be looking for something outside the system. Only an opinion. Hopefully this Toyota mechanic has some suggestions. You are not getting much response on the yoda tech forum, moving your post from the newbe tech section to the 86 to 95 truck section, might get more exposure? Jim
I tried to post in that forum and it would not let me. I received a note saying I needed 15 posts.
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Geez - I used to date a girl named Sherrie Myers. But that was in central New York state in the early 80s. Not you, I suppose. The girl I dated might be in a wheel chair or nursing home by now (or worse).
Back to radiators. I'm not trying to nick-pick here but buying an upgrade is not always easy unless the seller can give you full info. If this was something like a GM product - you could not even see your cooling tubes when the radiator filler cap is off. That is because they often run sideways (cross-flow design). On your Toyota - they are easy to see since they are vertical. For example - my 1988 Toyota RV has a two-tube core and each tube is 1/2" ID. Easy to see them with the cap off. If you look at the photos I posted - of mine - you can see that mine are partially plugged. That's why mine gets hot if I drive fast, or up a hill with the AC on when it is hot out. The reality is - I rarely ever use AC unless it's cold out. I use it to defog that little Toyota windshield because my dog is like a damn steam engine. In the "old days" of auto repair, desoldering the tanks off of radiators and "rodding out the core" was a standard maintenance practice. Pretty much not done anymore. Labor costs are too high, new radiators are cheap, and there's also a modern issue of "solder bloom" that makes rodding near impossible.
Back to my main point. Call the seller of that new radiator and ask him to just look down the filler hole and tell you how many tubes there are an how wide each on is. Then you'll know if you are really getting an upgrade or not.
One thing I don't think was mentioned (I have not re-read all the posts). How fast are you going when it gets hot? Are you pushing it hard or keeping it at 50-60 MPH on the flats and I assume slowing on hills. Big rigs often have exhaust temp gauges and tell a drive when to back off the gas pedal on steep hills when things get too hot. Your rig does not have one but is certainly working hard in a near 6000 lb. RV.
Ok took my phone number out of my post, not sure how to remove it from the reply? Never lived in NY. I can easily go 60 MPH on the highway, and between 45 and 50 MPH on the Mt. Charleston Hill. I have decided to take the Winnie to a Toyota Mechanic (not the dealer) and have a talk with them regarding the problem and all the suggestions. I will let everyone know what they say. They get a High Yelp rating and are a family run business.
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Vacuum gauge reads negative pressure. i.e. "vacuum." Back in the 60s-70s, most big trucks came with vacuum gauges in the dash as standard equipment. Any repair shop ought to have one and you can buy one for less then $20. Turbo boost gauges also usually read vacuum (as well as boost pressure). All gas engines make vacuum. Most diesel do not and need added vacuum pumps. Gas engines make the most when the engine is idling and least when the gas pedal is first pushed to the floor (wide open throttle). Most brake booster systems work on engine vacuum (your Toyota does). Older cars used to have windshield wipers that worked on vacuum too. My dad's new 59 Ford had them and when you stomped on the gas - the windshield wipers would stop dead.
Anyway - there are write-ups ad nauseum on how to use a vacuum gauge to check exhaust on this new thing called the "Internet." Here's one simple write-up (not by me). Your engine has many vacuum lines that are easy to get to. It would take someone 5-10 minutes to do a check.
Here's a simple do it yourself (DIY) test that can be performed to see if your CAT convertor is clogged or if you have excessive exhaust system backpressure or restriction:
Tools needed: vacuum gauge, tee connector
Connect a standard engine vacuum gage into a vacuum port off the intake system. You can tee off the fuel pressure regulator or purge valve lines located on the engine.
Start engine and maintain rpms at 2000 - 2500 rpm.
Watch vacuum gauge and reading should stabilize and stay steady.
If vacuum reading starts dropping or decreasing, it indicates either a clogged CAT convertor or restriction/backpressure in the exhaust system.
This simple procedure could save you a lot of money and headaches trying to figure out why the performance of your Grand Prix has degraded. Many times a clogged CAT convertor will not set off a odb-ii DTC error code or SES/MIL light. Its also a good way to determine whether a stock exhaust system is sufficient or whether you should mod.
Vacuum gauges are available at most nationwide auto parts stores. Cost is approximately $15 - $30
OK- Thanks I will do this or get it done as another check.
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Sherrie - If you opt for that radiator Linda cited - get some specs and post them. I'd like to see just how much bigger it is. I suspect you'd have to call them and speak to a real person to get a real answer. Some companies just cite core-depth as the total dimension instead of the total width of the tubes only. That can be very misleading. Like I said earlier, multiple tubes, in itself means nothing. Now if they have tubes equal to OEM size and add even more - then you've got something. One radiator cited as 2" deep might only have three 3/8" tubes ( 1 1/8" total), whereas another cited as " 2" might have two 3/4" tubes (1 1/2" total).
Here are a couple of screen shots of the specs.
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Okay, So I sent the email below to the manufacture CSF 3 row radiator. I will call them tomorrow. I am hearing from what people are writing that at this time I should be looking at solutions to cooling the engine with-out regard to why it is so hot. That the engine is hot because I am going up hill hauling a big heavy camper. Is this correct?
Hi! My name is Sherrie Myers I have a
1990 Toyota 6 cylinder 3.0 3VZE-E Automatic Transmission, Dully Winnebago Motorhome with 51 K miles.vin # JT5VN94T3L0015561I currently have this radiator installed.Spectra Premium CU1190 Complete Radiator for Toyota Pickup· Construction: Plastic Tank/Aluminum Core· Core Width (In): 19 Inch
· Core Height (In): 17-13/16 Inch
· Core Depth (In): 1-1/4 Inch
· Number Of Rows: 1
· Inlet Hose Diameter (In): 1-3/8 Inch
· Outlet Hose Diameter (In): 1-3/8 Inch
· Inlet Hose Diameter (mm): 34.93mm
· Engine Oil Cooler Included: No
· Transmission Oil Cooler Included: Yes
Amazon says this CSF would fit 2306
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CFTIE2?redirect=true&ref_=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Would this fit with-out modifications?
I live in Las Vegas NV and have purchased this Motor home just a couple of months ago and have been fighting an overheating problem ever since. I have replaced Head Gasket, Valve Seals, Water pump, timing belt, installed elec radiator fan 3000 cfm, radiator, radiator hoses, radiator cap, thermostat. It overheats going up hill. Runs around town just fine.
Please let me know if you have a 3 row radiator that will fit.
Thanks Sherrie Myers
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Yes, but it would also result in a loss of power. Such restriction is easy to verify with a vacuum gauge.
what is this vacuum gauge and how do i verify? I did pass a state required smog test in late June.
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I have had excellent results with my CFS radiator. All metal and they do have a 3 row. It's much larger than the one you have and after all the work you've had done what's another 200 bucks
Linda S
Linda do you have a V6 3.0 ?
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Me too! Me too! That is so cool
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Your sure makin this fun/hard/interesting. 85 deg in LV is not hot. Been there too many times
Clean AC condenser and check to see if the fins are OK (straight)
Looking at the pictures of the radiator it has mounting tabs on the sides that bolt it to the radiator support so air leaking past the radiator is out.
Have you talked to the original radiator shop?
They know nothing, offer to make a custom copper and brass radiator approx $600.00
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Spectra Premium - RadiatorUnless I missed it - you never posted your radiator core size - did you? That is one of the most essential factors here. A four-cylinder radiator has a core around 15 3/4" high X 20 3/4" wide X 1 1/4 thick and that comes to 408 cubic inches of coolant capacity and 327 square inches of frontal cooling surface. A V6 radiator has a core that measures 18" high X 19" wide X 1 1/4 thick and has 427 cubic inches of coolant and 427 square inches of frontal cooling area. There are places that make custom radiators (for V8 swaps into your Toyota) with 1728 cubic inches of coolant and 576 square inches of frontal cooling surface area. My point being - make sure you have at least the minimum correct size radiator core. If not - get the OEM correct one. Better yet-get one custom made that is even bigger. Many places make them. Do NOT be fooled by all the 3 or 4 tube claims. It, in itself means nothing. Some one-tube radiators cool better then some four-tube. You NEED TO MEASURE your radiator core (just the part that holds coolant and not the tanks or frame).
Line: GT | Part # CU1190- Construction: Plastic Tank/Aluminum Core
- Core Width (In): 19 Inch
- Core Height (In): 17-13/16 Inch
- Core Depth (In): 1-1/4 Inch
- Number Of Rows: 1
- Inlet Hose Diameter (In): 1-3/8 Inch
- Outlet Hose Diameter (In): 1-3/8 Inch
- Inlet Hose Diameter (mm): 34.93mm
- Engine Oil Cooler Included: No
- Transmission Oil Cooler Included: Yes
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another old trick for over heating was to roll a ll windows down and turn the heater to max heat and fan on high . gets hot on the people but can drop the engine temp to safe limits.
Been there done that
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You are showing your age with the canvas bag! If you can find one hang it on the grille and use one of these for cooling the Toy instead of the AC. Problem solved!
You can still buy the canvas bags http://kool-water.com/
So Frustrated!
Coolant Mixing Toyota Red And Other Green - Overheating Problem
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
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