sherrie
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Posts posted by sherrie
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Lake Mead is very low - but still a huge body of water! If the lake were full, we would be under 20 to 30 feet of water at our campsite. There are plans to raise the water level. Would not recommend June at Lake Mead with-out using AC, It would be deadly hot.
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Las Vegas, Nevada December 3rd, 2015 Thursday 62%F high of 66% F. Costco gas $2.29
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For those who may like to watch our last camping video.
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Sorry for the loss, we also were wondering in regards to this issue. We only have liability - so if it gets damaged there is no insurance to cover it. I wonder if there is a policy that would cover it as an RV? At 25 years old I doubt any insurance would see its true value.
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As you may have noticed we have significant de-lamination on the sides of the Motor-home. Since our motor-home has lived its whole life in Las Vegas I believe it's due to the excessive hot temperatures. I have been experimenting with Gorilla Glue with some positive results. I find the applying pressure while curing to be the biggest problem.
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When we bought the 90 Toyota Warrior there was some body damage and the fiberglass was very deteriorated. I decided to use a product that was designed as a Truck Bed Liner - called Grizzly Grip http://www.grizzlygrip.com/
Here is my Video of the project. https://youtu.be/fky3mwjuAs8
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We always leave it on, even though there is a little sign by the gas tank that says we should turn it off. I would be interested as to what our Forum Gurus have to offer on the topic!
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Hi to all! The weather was so nice last weekend November 6th through the 8th we decided to go to Lake Mead. It was beautiful and only 1 hour from our door to the lake! We were so warm during the day we put our shorts on. Maybe go back at Thanksgiving it was so nice. So here is a link to the slide show. https://youtu.be/I7AyCMzJBzA
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Not sure what the ASME vs DOT, but Linda is correct again, they say no Certification needed and I get it refilled no problem.
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I will always travel with a full gas can from now on. I put 13.9 gallons of gas in at the last white knuckle fill up. We left a day early from some awesome fishing so we could caravan to the gas station with the rest of our group that was leaving a day before we had to.
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Hi I have a 1991 Winnebago Warrior , model WT320RB.
It has a Brunner Propane tank, it is horizontal with the valve in the middle. I took it to a Propane Provider to have it checked out. They just put soapy water on the connections on the tank and said it was good! No certification needed. Oh they also had a manual gauge that worked to replace the broken one, It does not have the wire to connect to the panel inside- but seems to work good. One day when I was cleaning out the refrigerator compartment I found a gauge in there. It was so covered in dirt I did not know it was a gauge. After reading the Winnebago Manual I found out it is a gauge to test for propane leak in the Propane Lines. So I did the check and found 2 leaks! one at the Refrigerator and one at the Water Heater. Now I check the line after each fill and before I go on a trip. We always use the Propane for the Refrigerator and leave it on while driving. I feel very lucky that we did not explode! -
If I have a 17 gallon tank I would be really surprised. If I do - I have a bad gas gauge. We carry 5 gallons for our generator, but have already talked about adding another 5 gallons. I think the biggest problem was not understanding how much the wind effected our gas mileage.
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For those who are interested here is a Youtube, of our First real camping trip after solving the overheating problem. Now how to solve the small gas tank problem. Here in Nevada there are lots of cool areas to explore but not necessarily gas stations within the tank range!
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I have had some overheating issues with my 1989 3.0 and decided to swap out my 26 year old radiator with a new 3 row ALuminum radiator. My biggest concern was fitment. I did a ton of searching and found a radiator that was worth taking a shot with. At $90.00 the price was hard to beat so I rolled the dice.
The radiator arrived and felt twice as heavy as the OEM and looked great. I was super happy to find that it dropped right in and everything bolted up with no problem. After a quick drive it looks like it solved my overheating problem.
I hope this helps others looking for a quick and easy upgrade/replacement.
http://www.shepherdautoparts.com/all_aluminum_radiator/toyota/4runner/1989/3.0l_v6_182.html
Nice!
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Thanks for the post. I watched a youtube about these and was wondering. I will add this to my wish list.
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Hi Iterry,Welcome from another newbie, I bought my 1990 Toyota V6 3.0 Winnebago in June this year. I also knew nothing. I found a RV Repair person on Craigs list to come out and go through all the appliances in the coach. It cost $50.00 but he showed me everything and inspected what he could and had lots of info. Nothing beats a hands on lesson for lighting propane water heaters etc.
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Hi Sherrie, I've got a 91 Warrior w/V6 and ordered those exact tires through Walmart. You've probably read some of the various threads regarding tires/valves already, but I'll just highlight the following...
- The Nexen tires have worked fine for us so far. I've only put a few thousand miles on them but have been satisfied with the quality, traction, and ride so far.
- Walmart probably won't be able to balance them on their machine. I guess some locations can and some can't, depending on their available equipment/adapters. I had to go to a local shop for the balancing, once the tires had been mounted (unexpected and kind of a pain, yes).
- I purchased and brought my own brand-new OEM valves, and Walmart was happy to use those. You can find them on eBay at this link (I think I remember that the seller was willing to waive the additional shipping charges and "bundle" the six.)
Hope this was helpful.
Do I need 6 valves or only 4 for the dully?
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I have decided to get new tires for the 1990 Toyota Winnebago Warrior and I am going to purchase the Nexen SV820 185R 14/8 100P from Walmart and have them installed. What should I know about the stems? Is there anything else I should know and check with this work being done?
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I think I will pass on the more experiments and just do the 15% coolant. First I will leave the WW in for at least 1000 miles - I need a break from the overheating issue. I also hope the WW with the distilled water may loosen any blocks that might exist in the coolant passages in the block. Thank you for all the support in this issue. I will keep every one posted on what happens.
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With several flush and fills your anti freeze has not been the same, the only thing that has been consistent has been the overheating. The color of the antifreeze is simply a dye and has nothing to do with makeup of coolant.
A guess from the shade tree mechanic peanut gallery. You stated the Toy had a new radiator when purchased. Previous owner had a radiator leak and used a sealer, which did not work so replaced radiator. The sealer coagulated somewhere in the system and caused a blockage or restriction. Your final draining and refilling cleared up the restriction or possibly the Wetter water affected the clog.
Quote I have also seen a few cases where people have added multiple cans of radiator stop leak to a vehicle. In one case it ruined the radiator and the engine had to be disassembled to remove the hardened stop leak from the engine block cooling passages. Thinking back on this (Monte Carlo) it was actually the hardest engine overheating I ever diagnosed.
http://www.certifiedmastertech.com/wordpress/2011/05/13/engine-overheating-common-causes/
I hope that if this is the case (clogged due to sealer additive) that the multiple flushing and the use of the wetter water has dissolved it. We have also had a Block Cleaner used when we took it in to have the Toyota thermostat installed. I think I will put a thousand or so miles on it with the distilled water and wetter water, Then Flush, Flush, Flush - I will Flush with hot water. Then I will try distilled water, wetter water and 20% coolant. I will let everyone know what happens.
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After doing a successful 100 mile test drive with NO Overheating using the distilled water and Red Line Wetter Water. I will run this for a while and then decide on a coolant and never, never let a mechanic add coolant or any other thing (sealers) to my Winnies Coolant system. Since I used the garden hose to flush the system there would be no way to test the concentration.
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10-18-2015 Success! Just finished a 100 mile test drive and NO OVERHEATING!
I fill confident the issue with overheating is resolved. In reviewing the problem this is what I believe to have happen.
These are the steps to correct the overheating problem on the Toyota Winnebago, as they were given to me. They should completed in order one at a time then if overheating persists continue to the next step. (I would add – Only after you confirm the step performed is 100% correct)
1. Check Coolant level – add coolant if low and re-check. If leaks are found repair leaks. Inspect that the Radiator, AC Condenser and Transmission fins are clean and not bent. ( Burp)
2. Replace Radiator cap. (The highest quality is not always the most expensive)
3. Replace Thermostat. ( I would add - always use the Toyota Thermostat and boil test prior to installation) (Burp)
4. Replace the radiator or clean – professionally flush- pressure test the radiator and system. If you have any doubts as to the condition of the radiator after being professionally cleaned then replace it. (I would add- be sure the new radiator is the proper radiator for the size of the vehicle. Just because it fits does not mean it is the correct radiator for the application) (Burp)
5. Check that the Fan Clutch, Fan and Shroud are working properly– Replace any part if there are any doubts. (Burp)
6. Replace the water pump. At the same time it makes sense to replace the timing belt. (Burp)
7. Last but the only thing left is the Head Gaskets. There are three diagnostic test for Head Gasket failure. (a) Combustible Gas in the radiator. (B)compression test ( C ) leak down test. If you replace the Head Gaskets (Burp).
Burp, Burp, Burp the system after any service to the coolant system. (always use the same coolant – never –never mix coolant colors)
So were did we go wrong, there were many things that made the repair to the Overheating more problematic.
#1 We assumed that the Previous owners installed the correct new radiator, they did not. We also assumed that our replacement radiator that we had installed and was a larger capacity radiator was large enough, it was not.
#2 We did not boil test the thermostat’s we purchased prior to installation. We tried to use aftermarket thermostats. It was evident after purchasing the Toyota thermostat that there is a difference.
#3 We purchased a Radiator Cap that had a pressure release lever on it. This lever on the new radiator cap leaked.
#4 We allowed the mechanic’s to put into the coolant system any coolant that they had available. We allowed the mechanic’s to mix coolants – including green coolant added to red coolant.
So in retrospect this is what I believe to have happened. The Winnie was purchased with an overheating problem. Upon replacement I believe that the Fan Clutch was not functioning properly, we received almost 2 mpg more after replacement. The Water Pump although not leaking was not functioning properly, after removal the bearing sounded to be rubbing. With the fan clutch and the water pump bad the vehicle overheated and the previous owners replaced the radiator with the least expensive one they could and then sold it to us.
We being neophytes to Toyota Winnebago’s we did not know about larger capacity radiators. With the fan clutch and the water pump being bad, even when we replaced them, we could not overcome the insufficient radiator and we continued to Overheat. When we finally did order and have installed a large 3 row – high performance radiator, the mechanic that installed it mixed the existing red coolant in the system with a green coolant he had in his shop. The mixing of coolants did not allow the new radiator to perform properly and we continued to overheat! OMG. I am just thankful that it is now fixed. I will run it with distilled water and Red Line Wetter Water for a while and then flush and flush and then add a Coolant / Antifreeze back into the system. But from now on I will require that mechanics only use coolant that I supply to them.
I sincerely want to thank everyone here that helped me through this. Thank you Sherrie
Urgent Help Required: Engine Overheating
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
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Hi, centraman, this is Sherrie in Las Vegas. I purchased a 90 Toy Warrior in June 2015. I had a overheating problem, now fixed. Posted on this site the whole ordeal. I installed the brass CSF 3 row. I think this is the best option and would not replace it - unless you know the radiator is not functioning. I had a lot of trouble using mechanics that did not understand the unique issues of a Toyota Motorhome vs Toyota Truck. I would recommend trying to find a mechanic on the west coast that understands the Toyota Motorhome and speak/visit them. I received a lot of wrong information from mechanics here, even the dealership - because they did not understand the unique issues of a Toyota Motorhome. By the way if you locate one - let me know.