candace
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Posts posted by candace
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No. The tank is made of ABS plastic and is easy to fix with the correct material. You need some real ABS glue and NOT the so-called universal glue sold for ABS and PVC pipe. You also need a chunk of ABS plastic. You grind up some plastic to make power, mix it with the ABS glue and then just brush it on. Unlike PVC, ABS is "solvent welded." So with the correct ABS glue - it will melt the old ABS and weld new stuff right too it. I've fixed many black tanks. Last one had a huge hole where the RV's exhaust pipe melted right through it. You might have to order in a can of it through a plumbing supply store or maybe find it at a RV place. When I needed it - none of the local building supply stores had it but the RV place did. Do NOT try to use the combo stuff made for both ABS and PVC. IT WILL NOT WORK. You have to use the real ABS glue.
Thank you!
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Our black tank is dripping where the tank meets the pipe that releases the liquid. I've sanded the area and applied epoxy, but it's still dripping. So, I sanded all of the glue or whatever previous owners used to seal it up and underneath I see silicon. My question: Should I use epoxy to glue on some fiberglass cloth or should I apply some new silicon?
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Thanks everyone! There's always something new to learn about these rigs. I was in second gear the whole way down. I should have pumped the brakes instead of riding them the whole way down. Took it to a friend of a friend who is a mechanic in Missoula. He changed the brake fluid and now we're all good. Now I need to fix a leaking black tank...ew. here's the latest video of our adventure in The Snail
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I was driving down a one lane, gravel mountain road with switchbacks for about 4 miles having to keep my foot on the brake in order to descend slowly. I began to smell a burning similar to the smell of a burning clutch. At the bottom of the mountain, I pushed the brake pedal and it went straight to the floor. There was no longer any resistance. I had to drive the rest of the way on the gravel road using my emergency brake to slow down. Then my brake pedal began to work again. What's wrong with my brakes?
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After starting it up, I think it smells like fresh propane. When its been running for a while, I think it smells more like combustion or byproduct
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We're in Lake Louise, Canada right now. It's been pretty cold at night, so we've been using the furnace. Outside of the rv, I smell propane coming from the furnace vent. It smells the entire time the furnace is on, not just when I start it.
Is this normal?
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Hi everyone! We're traveling around the West for a few months in our 1984 Toyota Hunstman. Experience the journey with us here: http://lifeinthesnaillane.com
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Update: Replaced electric pump with mechanical pump and have been fine ever since. Now we're having braking issues
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Driving through the mountains in Wyoming at high rpms. We pulled over and noticed we had oil all over the left side of the engine compartment (left if standing in front of the truck). It appears to be coming from the pcv valve hose but we can't be certain. Looks like it sprayed! We have a 1984 toyota huntsman with a 2.4L 4 cylinder (22r). Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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first things first.. The mechincal fuel pump mounts on the top front of the engine. Do you have the fittings and enough hose???
You need to install the electric fuel pump correctly so that means close to the tank, probably need to run new wires too.
If I buy the mechanical pump (which seems easier to me), I'm going to buy enough hose as well.
If I buy the proper electric pump, I'm going to buy enough wire to run from the tank up to the battery and some new hose. But I'll have the added task of drilling a hole in the rail frame. I'm leaning towards the mechanical pump. However, the mechanical pump may not be suitable as the PSI is 3.5 to 4.75. Do I need a lower pressure than that? I'll order one if I have to, but was hoping to get back on the road today.
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By the way, when I said the pump you posted was fine as far as pressure goes, my reference was for the one you have under the hood (the Airtex). NOT the new Holley you just bought. That is not considered a "low pressure" pump and I would not use it. That is a "medium" pressure pump. That Airtex is rated 2-4 PSI which is good for small engines on lawn mowers and garden-tractors and also small car engines that have carbs with small floats, needle & seats for fuel control. That Holley is rated 4-6 PSI and designed for bigger auto engines with bigger floats, needle & seats. That Holley is also NOT suitable to mount under the hood. It makes too much pressure and is not designed to draw fuel from a distance and height. It's bad enough when the RV is on a flat road. When going up a steep hill - it gets real bad since the tank gets way below the engine compartment (where the pump is mounted now). The old Ford Model T trucks had no fuel pump with the gas tank in back and mounted a little higher then the engine. Worked fine until you came to a steep hill. Then the engine would starve for fuel unless you turned around and backed up so the gas tank stayed higher then the engine. Not quite the same issue as with your Toyota, but you get the idea. If you really want an electric pump - why not just buy a pump that is rugged and made for the job. That's the Walbro FRB I posted. It's one of the few on the market that is very durable and can draw fuel from a distance. Even so, even if I had that one, I'd still have it mounted by the tank. If I had your rig, I'd just put a new mechanical pump on the engine and call it "good."
I really appreciate the advice. I really want to get back on the road asap. I can go pick this mechanical pump up from Advanced Auto today http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-or-airtex-mechanical-fuel-pump-1330/5773415-P#fragment-3
As for the electric Holley, I bought the wrong one. This is the one I was supposed to buy http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/holley-mighty-might-electric-fuel-pump-12-426/10717170-P?searchTerm=12-426
So my options are to mount an electric pump close to the tank on the frame rail or to install a mechanical pump. Why would I want and electric over a mechanical and vice versa?
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Am I missing something? Neither of these pumps seem to come up as the right part for a 1984 Toyota pickup. Both also have way lower pressure than the stock mechanical pump.
Linda S
The previous owner added a Weber carburetor which requires a low pressure pump.
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Here is the pump our truck has: http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8016S-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000C1LW0E/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1439857341&sr=1-2&keywords=Airtex+E8251
I bought this one today in case I need to replace it.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/holley-mighty-might-electric-fuel-pump-12-427/10717109-P
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How hot is it (air temps, that is)? "5Toyota" mentioned in his post the possibility of vapor-lock. It is almost unheard of nowadays since just about all cars and trucks have electric fuel pumps. It can only happen with a mechanical pump. But - I'm thinking maybe your Toyota has one? My 1978 Toyota Chinook and my 1988 Toyota Minicruiser both have electric pumps but I'm thinking the mid-80s 22R engines with carbs have mechanical pumps. If yours DOES have one - then vapor lock certainly is possible. That's the sort of thing that can come and go. Gets the worse when driving in extreme heat. A plugged filter won't be intermittent. It can certainly make the engine buck when hitting the pedal - but it will do so consistently. Not on and off, like you are experiencing. Intermittent problems can be very difficult to diagnose (as I guess you know). Electronic problems (ignition) can also be intermittent but usually not "good for three hours", then "not" like you describe. Usually if an electric module or coil is going bad - it gets hot and craps out.Then cools off again and works - until it gets hot and craps out again. If you decide vapor lock IS your problem - best way to eliminate it is to install a low-pressure booster electric pump as close to the fuel tank a possible. You hook it in series along with your mechanical pump. If I was around home and trying to diagnose a problem like this - I'd just take a 5 gallon boat gas tank, laying it on the hood and let it gravity feed gas to the engine. If it then ran fine - I'd know it was a fuel starvation problem. I realize such a test is not really feasible while on the road traveling.
Update: I think it could be vapor lock. Although the truck has an electric fuel pump, it was added by the previous owner. The location of the fuel pump is under the hood, close to the engine, where it can become very hot. Vapor lock seems the most likely diagnosis as the problem happens after driving for several hours and in hot outside temperatures. Someone suggested that I wrap the incoming lines with cork tape. Going to try that.
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Thanks for the replies. The truck does have an electric fuel pump. So, I guess it's not vapor lock. The air temperature in the middle of the day was about 90 degrees. When we started driving again in the evening, the temp had dropped quite a bit. Probably in the low 70's.
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I'm not sure what you mean by "shudder?" An audible vibration? Or more of a pulsation that corresponds with intermittant losses of power? And, it is for sure an "engine-when-running" or a "rolling" shudder? If you shut the engine off when coasting - does the "shudder" go away?
Thank you! you have given us the vocabulary we needed to describe what's happening. It is more of a pulsation that corresponds with intermittent loss of power. It is definitely only happening when we are in gear pushing the accelerator. In neutral, it stops happening and coasts smoothly.
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Thanks everyone for your help. I will try to explain the "shudder". It's a lurching movement. It feels like the truck will die if I don't take my foot off the gas. Like the engine is trying really hard and on the verge of quitting. This is coming from the front of the truck, under the hood. We stopped for about an hour, close to the border of Colorado in Kansas. As the sun went down and the temperature cooled, we took off again, driving three more hours to arrive in Denver without experiencing the problem again. Still unsure of the next step to take in diagnosing the problem. We want to head to the Tetons in Wyoming, but would like to get this fixed before we do.
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We're traveling across the country in a 1984 Toyota huntsman 4 cylinder carbureted with manual transmission. Yesterday after driving for about 3 hours, the truck started to shutter. I have an air to fuel meter which read 17 and above, corresponding with the shutter. We were able to stop the shutter by putting the truck in neutral. Although it would stop momentarily, the shutter would come back. Eventually it became so frequent, we had to pull over. Thinking that it might be a fuel delivery issue, we took the fuel hose off of the carburetor and turned on the fuel pump to see if there was blockage. However that was not the problem because we had a steady flow of fuel. Next, we opened up the carburetor to verify there were no problems there. No problem filling the bowl with fuel and no problem with the float moving up and down. I woke up this morning and started to drive again. No problems until about three hours in. Once again, the the shutter started. We have stopped several times for 30 min or more to let the engine cool. When we resume driving we can drive another 25 miles or so and the shutter starts again. Now we're thinking there may be a problem with the ignition coil or the pickup coil. We would love some help!
5000 Miles! Life In The Snail Lane
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We're posting a daily vlog fir the month of October. Here's a video from the other day in montana