candace
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Posts posted by candace
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While driving, our 1984 Toyota Huntsman died (carbureted, manual trans). Found the 30amp AM2 fuse blew as did the 15 amp cig lighter fuse in the panel under the drivers side dash. Replaced the fuse and fuseable link. Searched for a short under the hood. Cleaned up and organized the wires under the hood. Took it ta mechanic. Computer said alternator was fine, and everything else was ok. Did fine for another 80 miles. Then lost all electronics in the cab and the air conditioning. But the engine didn't stop. I was able to make it to a rest stop. Once I turned the ignition off, it would not restart. Found the AM1 fuse was blown and the cig lighter 15amp was blown again. The diagram of the fuse box shows the AM1 fuse is 40 amps but mine was a 60 amp fuse. Used some wire connector and a piece of wire to make a jumper for the fuse. Truck started. Turned AC on, fuse blew again. I have no idea how to troubleshoot from here. Tried to use the fuse jumper i made again, but it sparks really bad when I try to put it on now. I've looked for a shorted wire everywhere...well, everywhere I can think to look. Any advice?
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Thanks for the info! Looks like my coolant is good. -37 degrees according to the tester
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29 minutes ago, WME said:
Yes, no and maybe!!!!
It depends on what brand of antifreeze was in it. Red, green, orange???? If you don't know then a flush is in order. If you do flush refill with the Toyota red antifreeze.
There has been a lot of arguments about antifreeze for Toy's and in IMHO the Toy factory red stuff is some of the best for aluminum/iron combo engines.
Look in the photo section, members section, there are some photos of red and green antifreeze Not mixing. Caused a new owner endless grief and lots of $$ spent.
It's a bright green. Leads me to think I don't need to bother draining it and replacing. But I'm not sure.
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On April 15, 2016 at 8:00 PM, bobblefrog said:
Curious to see if you found out more? Did you determine if it was mold for sure?
I was thinking if I wasn't having any respiratory symptoms, and didn't smell it, I'd personally just patch it back up, and keep a piece out to be analyzed once off the road. From what I've read, unless you're sensitive to it, it's not immediately an issue. A lot of "scare" stuff out there on the internet. You've got some time to figure out how to deal with it.
Just thinking out loud of course. Wanted to see what you've determined.
19 hours ago, snail powered said:A few little spots of garden variety, everyday black mold won't do you any real harm. If it did everyone in the Pacific Northwest would have long since died as it is everywhere when you go outside, on buildings, on the trees, on the leaves, etc. Those little black spots are NOT toxic mold. That is very different stuff and pretty rare to find as well. Black mold stains can be hard to remove. But some Kilz primer over them then paint will take care of the issue.
Thanks for checking in with me about this. It's definitely mold. The little black things pictured I believe are spores. The actual mold is a very light brown color. It covered the the foam board insulation. It covered the only unpainted wall of the closet. And when I tore out the 2' X 2' section of thin ceiling wood it covered the unpainted up-facing side. The mold is best seen in the first picture and last picture in my original post. It was also on the underside of the of the closet's "floor". It's a thin piece of wood just like the ceiling wood that can be easily removed when everything is out of the closet. I sprayed everything down with concrobium. Tried to remove the mold but it's really stuck on the surfaces. I read that the concrobium kills the mold, renders it harmless and prevents mold from growing. I cleaned off the little black spores easily. I bought a piece of thin hardboard at Home Depot, painted it white, like the rest of the ceiling, and replaced the wood I removed in the closet with it. I removed the trim surrounding the vent above the bed over the cab and found lots of those little black things. So I think the mold is all over the non-visible side of the ceiling wood. I'm sure it's been this way since I bought the motorhome last July because when sweeping and cleaning in the motorhome I've always noticed the little black sediment (spores). I just though it was dirt. It's disconcerting but I have never been ill because of it so I'm not too worried about it.
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A few months ago my alternator belt broke while driving. I pulled over with the engine running to investigate the sound. Because the engine was being kept cool by the wind while I was driving, it didnt start to overheat until I pulled over with the engine still running. So I replaced the belt and due to the overheating, I put about a gallon of water in the radiator. I never bothered to flush it and replace with antifreeze because I was in Southern California. I'm about to head into the colder climates of northern Utah and southern Idaho and remembered that maybe I need to drain the current coolant mixture and put in a new 50/50 mix because of that gallon of water I added months back. Can I just drain the radiator and poor in a 50/50 antifreeze? Or do I need to completely flush from the block and run hose water through the radiator first?
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I have just repaired a leak in my roof. Water intruded from the hole in the roof for the black water tank vent located in the closet. This hole has become unsealed in the past and caused a small portion of the ceiling (maybe 4" X 4") to rot. It was painted over (before I owned it). I decided to tear out the small portion of visibly rotted wood. After removing the section with the saw on my leatherman, I saw what appears to be mold on the insulation foam and the rafter. So, I got a little carried away and ripped out all of the ceiling wood above the closet. The whole thing has mold. I am thinking that it's probably spread to the entire rv. But I'm not sure. Ignorance was bliss. I sprayed the the moldy areas with Concrobium http://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-32-oz-Mold-Control-025326/100654126 And scrubbed with a scotch pad, but I cant get it off. Can you folks tell me how dangerous this mold is? Have you seen this before? It's not like any mold I've ever seen. I started to think maybe it was an adhesive to connect the thin ceiling wood to the insulation and rafter. But that wouldn't explain why it's covering the only unpainted wall in the closet. Must be mold. Also pictured are tiny black "pebbles" mixed in with the mold. They are hard little granules. What are these things? What do you think I should do? I don't want to tear out the entire ceiling. Maybe I have to. But I'm on the road right now. No time for that. I was thinking I should just try my best clean it and then paint a new piece of particle board with anti-mold something or other to replace the wood I removed.
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I have been operating with a bad deep cycle battery since I bought the motorhome last August. It really wasn't a big deal. I could charge electronics with two 400 watt Cobra inverters while driving. Lights and water pump always worked fine. Rarely plugged in at rv campgrounds. I installed a 100 watt solar panel and solar controller a month ago. Now, even when not driving I could charge electronics as long as the sun was out. The other day I decided it would be nice to be able to actually store power in my battery, so I bought one at Walmart. The Everstart 24dc. Before installing the new battery, I never had any problems charging my laptop, cellphone and camera battery at the same time. The other day, I was only charging my laptop. When I went to unplug it, the inverter started burning up. I could smell it. I opened it up and the two fuses were burned on their negative sides. The other inverter had just randomly stopped working a couple of days before. No signs of it burning. So I bought a new inverter at Walmart 410 watts made by Schumacher. When I charge only my laptop with the new inverter, the fan runs constantly. What is the deal? I have plenty of power. The solar controller indicates the battery is charged and healthy. Any ideas why my inverters went bad and now this one's fan won't stop running? If I just charge my phone, it the fan doesn't run. It's with the laptop charging that the fan turns on immediately. When the old inverter burned, could it have scorched the wires causing them to work less efficiently?
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I removed the thermocouple and burner tube. Burner tube had a lot of rust sediment inside. Cleaned it out with some denatured alcohol. Used a suggestion from another forum to clean the end of the thermocouple that sits above the flame with a pencil eraser. The other end had some yellow stuff inside the threaded piece that connects to the gas button. I cleaned that crap out. Put everything back in and wallah, the refrigerator is resurrected. Now maybe I should start investigating why it doesn't work on electric. Thanks for the help. This forum has been so good to me. Every day a new problem in the last couple weeks. Fuel pump went out in Joshua Tree with no cell reception. Fortunately I had the old electric pump that I took off last summer due to vapor lock. Put it back on to replace the seemingly malfunctioning mechanical pump I've had for just 8 months. Both of my 400 watt inverters crapped out. And the roof leak repair failed and is leaking again after heavy rain in sw Utah last night. SMH. But learning how to fix things is really fun. I've never been much of a mechanically inclined handyman until being forced to fix things myself on this motorhome.
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36 minutes ago, WME said:
So how do you know it works on gas when the flame won't stay lit????
There is a thing called a thermocouple it sticks into the flame and keeps the gas valve open when you release the button. Its a VERY common part. http://www.adventurerv.net/dometic-refrigerator-thermocouple-rm2652-rm2662-rm3662-rm3663-rm4872-p-28133.html.
The thermocouple is the thing in the back.
The way the glowing thing in the front, is mounted, it looks more like its part of a piezo striker. Do you have a push button that you push to make a spark to start the fire?.
The two things are not connected.
Hers is a short video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FCqiVqZx5k4
The cooling unit is the same for electric and gas. So if it works on one then the cooling unit is OK. Another video about the AC heater. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2zioJ7XwmM
Thanks for the info and links. The button that is supposed to ignite the flame has never worked for me. I have to have my girlfriend press the gas button while I manually light the flame. Or, when she's not with me, as is the case now, I use a curtain rod wedged between a cabinet and the button in order to press the button and then I quickly jump out and light the flame. Gotta move quick so that I don't get a big flame pop!
There is a lot of rust around the flue and burner assembly. I'm going to remove the burner tube and thermocouple and clean out any sediment. I read that I can test the thermocouple with a multimeter when the thermocouple is hot.
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On April 3, 2016 at 5:18 PM, Maineah said:
Yeah you need a bolt up top there is a bolt in the bottom that is on the rusty bar that is slotted the compressor swing from the top and the bottom bolt holds it in place it needs to be loosened first that it pivots’ at the top once it's tight tighten the bottom bolt on the rusty bar.
Thank you. I put a bolt in there and was able to tighten the bolt in the slot. But that rusty slotted bar is cracked in the middle on one side. So the belt loosened again. I need a new one of those slotted bars. Is it a tension bar?
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My refrigerator has not worked on electricity since I bought the motorhome. Only works with gas. When I light the flame it stays lit only as long as I am pushing the button on the front of the refrigerator for gas. but as soon as I release the button, the flame goes out. I see two pieces of rusted metal that turn orange when the flame is lit. They look rusty and as if they were once connected and are now separated. I think these are the components I need to replace here are some photos.
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I ran the wires from the panel down the fridge vent, along the side of the fridge then drilled two holes for the wires to go down into the cabinet below the fridge. From there I had easy access to run the wires through the lower cabinetry to the battery box. It's working great!
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14 minutes ago, WME said:
Take a picture please. Most of the cab AC units are after market. Many different mounts, mine used a bolt that went through a pulley bracket.
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1984 22r
the belt that is connected to the AC compressor is loose. I can't figure out how to tighten it. Can someone help? Thanks
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I put the blower back in and it's working. However, on the lowest setting it makes a noise like the sound of a playing card in the spokes a bicycle wheel and I smell burning. On the medium and on the highest setting it works fine. ?
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2 hours ago, jdemaris said:
The heater relay powers the AC compressor and the blower motor. The AC pump work? Power TO the heater relay also powers the windshield wipers. Do they work?
A 7 1/2 amp IGN fuse is what powers the heater relay (to turn on or off). That wire where it connects to the relay is yellow. The power that the relay sends to the heater blower is protected by a 20 amp fuse and that wire is red. If you are checking for voltage at the 20 amp heater fuse and get nothing (no positive reading with other lead grounded) - then there is no POS coming from the relay. Subsequently - you have one of two possible issues. #1 the relay is not energizing (closing), or #2 it IS closing but there is no power for the feed circuit. The two wires AT the relay for making it close are Yellow (POS from the IGN fuse) and Yellow-Red (NEG from the heater blower switch). The two wires that have the actual power flow to the heater blower are POS from the 20 amp HEATER fuse, and NEG from the blower-switch OR blower-resistor depending on the speed setting.
AC compressor works as do the wipers. I get positive voltage reading when I put the lead on the relay as pictured but not from the 20 amp heater fuse or 10 amp AC fuse. So replace the relay?
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On March 20, 2016 at 7:04 AM, DanAatTheCape said:
Have you tried the blower on the highest speed? Blowers have a resister that fails over time. The highest speed usually never fails - as the resistor portion craps out, the lower speeds "go away".
Blower doesn't work at all. I used a multi meter to check voltage on the relay (i think the relay is the piece with piece above the AC and heater fuses) and got a 12 volt reading. But I had no voltage when I put the needle where the AC and heater fuses are located. Does this mean there's a short in the wiring?
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Here's my blower fan aka mouse house. i checked the two fuses left of the glovebox marked "AC 10" and "Heater 20". They look fine. The relay below the fuses makes a noise when I move the Ac/Heater fan switch. I only hear it click when I move it from on to off, not the other way around. Are there any other fuses or relays I am not seeing?
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1984 Huntsman - Worked perfectly fine yesterday. Today, the blower doesn't work at all. Could this be a fuse? Anyone know the amps and location of the fuse I'd be looking for? I assume it's in the fuse panel on the lower left driver side by my left leg.
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On March 14, 2016 at 4:18 PM, Maineah said:
Glad to hear it but I have never heard of that trick.
Never mind. It's doing it again.
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The problem started recently. Not happening anymore after having the oil changed.
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50 minutes ago, WME said:
Yellow wire is 12v for the choke heater. The 1500/700 idle thing sounds normal. The Weber does not have the up idle solenoid. There maybe a solenoid kit for AC up idle that could be use the same way
Take the air cleaner off and check all the linkage and choke when the engine is hot.
Your engine is built as a old time hot rod engine, did you have it done or did it come that way when you bought the RV?
Previous owner is a mechanic. He rebuilt the motor and modified for more horsepower with weber carb and header.
My throttle cable is fraying. I wonder if that's causing a hangup.
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On March 5, 2016 at 0:55 PM, jdemaris said:
Those are self-tapping screws made to go into thick metal and not made of stainless-steel. Not made for thin sheet metal and not made to grip wood.
You are not going to find any rafters in the ceiling that are just where you need them. This is not a frame-built house where rafters and studs are spaced evenly on 16" or 24" centers. You've got supports going across sideways. Might be aluminum or steel square tubing and might be wood. All depends where you happen to catch one. In my Minicruiser - I can easily see where they are just by looking up at the ceiling.
How you attach depends on how your roof is constructed. If there is a sound layer of 3/8" plywood on the outside, under the aluminum skin - some stainless-steel screws MADE for wood will work fine. That way you don't have to go through to the inside. If the plywood is too thin or semi-rotted and wood-screws can't get a good bit - then yeah - going though to the inside is a one option. I've done that with many things. If you use Nylock nuts on the inside - you can just tighten enough to make snug without causing depressions in the ceiling. Trim off the excess of the threaded bolt and it's hardly noticeable (at least to me). IF you can locate a sideways support - and its location is OK for where you want your solar panel - then you can get a good hold screwing into that. The chances of finding two sideways supports - spaced just as you'd like for your solar-mount are pretty slim.
My plan is to just connect the solar to my deep cycle battery. I need a new deep cycle battery as mine is shot. Is there a special battery I should buy considering I'll now be using the solar panel as well?
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I have a dgv 32/36 Weber carb. Not sure if this is related but when I turn the ignition on it ideals high at 1500,I have to tap the gas to get it down to 700. Is this yellow wire the one we're talking about to the fuel shutoff? It's the Only wire I see from the carb
AM1 and AM2 fuses blowing
in Electrical
Posted
Thanks for your replies. One thing I failed to mention in the original post is that when the 30 amp fuse blew the first time, the positive wire from the fuel pump had become detached from the solenoid that powers it. the nut that holds it on had come loose and was missing. So the wire was hot and loose under the hood. It's hard to believe the blown fuse wasn't related to a hot wire floating around under the hood.
I found an auto electrical specialist who cleaned up the wiring for me and looked for a possible short. He said the wiring that runs over the top of the emergency brake was being rubbed by the brake pull every time I pulled it which could have been the problem. But he also found a loose wire behind the cd player which could have been touching the metal at the back of the cd player.
After he cleaned up the wiring, I've had no more electrical problems.
But I'm having a problem with combustion. Lot's of backfiring inside the exhaust. Not really loud backfiring, but like crackling pops. Lots of them one after the other. When it's backfiring, the truck is also jolting. It's especially bad when climbing a hill. But if I'm climbing and drop it into first gear, it goes away. Someone told me it could be timing. Idk. Any advice?