1988dolphin

I got tired of trying to keep the front windows from leaking so removed them. Installed entire over cab inner 3/16 plywood skin, used 3/4 CD plug to close actual window openings, used white formica as the outer skin. Once complete several coats of gloss white oil based Rustoleum. Just did the cab recently in Rustoleum hunter green.

The original RV mattress had to go. I built a movable hinged platform out of 3/4 plywood with three heavy duty door hinges on the from edge. I covered with with inexpensive outdoor grey carpet. I ordered a extra long twin mattress which fits in perfect. I added a foot board and head board over the side windows so I can save the screens. Works great. I use two repurposed Ikea table legs to hold the bed up when I am on the road. The two white boards you see on the bottom of the raised bed are the runners for a pull out table that I use once in bed to hold drinks etc. I have been using this for two years now and works perfect.

I am going to drain out all of the ATF in the transmission pan and refill. I have read on various forums that mixing dino and synthetic is OK. The manual that came with the vehicle asked for Dextron II. Any thoughts? If you have done this is there a synthetic ATF that you prefer? Thanks

You have a good point. I make a tool out of a soft material and I will keep the tool camper toolbox. I want to be able to do a seal on job the side of the road if necessary. I am getting to know this rear axle quite well. Already I have done full rear brakes, including new brake cylinders. Next job will rear bushings I think. Thanks

Thanks for your feedback. I need to go back and properly seat the seal. When I drove in the seal i did not drive it all the way in to the shoulder because of the tool I was using to drive it in. So I guess that I will pull the axle and drive in the seal to the point where is touches the shoulder. I often have to go back in and correct my previous work but I do not mind really. In the scope of things it is a simple fix and will give me piece of mind when I am back out on the road. Again Thanks

Perfect, the seal in my toyota has the same placement. Thanks

Just need to check on how deep the rear inner axle seal needs to be driven into the axle. I found a thread where the question was asked but no answer was given. Right now the seal, with the spring placed inbroard, is driven in to the point where the end of the axle and seal are flush. The reason the previous seal failed was because it worked out of the axle. So I guess two questions. First how deep should the seal go, and second question what tool did you use to drive it in deeper. Thanks.

Got home just fine. Thanks

Thanks for the feedback. Just checked and added gear oil. Bit of a slant in the drive way so it maybe a bit over full.

I guess that is what I was getting at. I would ensure the gear oil level in the third member is correct and check it every 200 miles or so. No big deal either the checking or added adding gear oil. All I want to do is limp home and make the fix at home rather than in my father in laws drive way.

I am 800 miles from home. Would I be safe to drive if I ensure I have plenty of gear oil.

Is it possible that rear end gear oil could migrate from the third member and leak out of the point where the rear axle bolts to the rear hub. I found oil, defiantly not brake fluid. Any help would be appreciated.

Based on your response and my reading the 4.88 gearing is the way to go. When I climb a hill I will select a gear on the automatic that keeps the tachometer at 2800 - 3000 RPM and take my time. The 22RE engine is a work horse. One more question. There is a system that locks out 4th gear when the vehicle is above 2500 feet in altitude or so. Would you recommend disabling it if I use 4.88 gearing, and if so where would I research how to correctly do it. This would be my gearing if I use 4.88 gears. 1st gear / 2.452 @ 3129 rpm = 20 MPH 2nd gear / 1.452 @ 3057 rpm = 33 MPH 3rd gear / 1.00 @ 3062 rpm = 48 MPH Overdrive / .688 @ 2634 rpm = 60 MPH

I have a 1988 Dolphin with 60.000 miles, a 22RE engine, Automatic Transmission, and 4:10 rear gears. I seldom use overdrive. I would like to lower gearing to assist in hill climbing and maybe make overdrive more practical. What has been your experience? Thanks

Lifted the rear end and adjusted the rear brakes via the access port on the back of the hubs. Bled brakes one more time. Drove a bit. Think I hit it this time.

Thanks for the feedback. I will adjust the rear shoes using the backing up/ emergency brake method and see if that helps.Just want to be safe. Again thanks.

Good Day All I have a 1988 Toyota dolphin motorhome with 51K miles. I was getting everything getting ready for the season. When I checked the brakes the pedal felt soft. I looked and noticed that a trail of fluid had run down the passenger inside dual tire. I replaced both rear the brake cylinders and the brake shoes. The drums looked good. I bled the rear brakes and the brake pedal felt firm once again. When I drove the vehicle the pedal once again felt soft. So I bled all the brakes again, both front and rear. Once again I got the same result. The pedal was firm till I started the engine. With a running engine the pedal was soft. Should I assume that the leak that I saw on the passenger inside dual was part of the problem and the real problem is the brake master cylinder. Any help would be appreciated Thanks

Great write up and photographs. I feel comfortable pulling the axles and removing the differential. I will take the differential to a shop that I have yet to identify and let them do the tricky stuff.

No problem about the part numbers. I broke down the numbers on the identification plate that was mounted in on the back of the engine compartment. The number (G292) breaks down as (G = 8 inch gear / 29 = 4.10 gearing / 2 = open differential). Just curious did you do the install of the ring and pinion yourself or did you have a shop do it? If you did do it how much of a challenge was it.

Thanks for your answers. I plan on buying all new parts and having a professional install the parts. The RV was given to me so I can afford to put some money into it. Where did you look up the parts? Again Thanks

Good Morning I have a 1988 dolphin / 22RE engine with 51K miles / A43D transmission / 4.10 rear axle gear ratio. I have the typical issues; first gear not low enough for hills, OD to high. I have read in forums that a rear axle gearing change would be advantageous Has anyone done this? Any kick the right direction would be great. Thanks

I am going try to get some lubrication in on the bolts that go through the bushings. May get lucky.

I have a 1988 Toyota Dolphin that makes creaking noises when driving slow over medium to large bumps. The front end feels tight and tracks in a straight line when driven. The vehicle has 51,000 miles. New to vehicle and Chilton idiot book is no help. Possibly dry bushings? A kick in the correct direction would be appreciated.

I want to thank you all for the tips. Yesterday I plumbed a T fitting and shut off valve in to a low pressure propane line. I will use the large size buddy heater with a 3 foot gas hose with a disconnect.

The converter arrived today. It had instructions for a converter from a different manufacturer. No help but still was pretty simple. Took maybe 3 hours. I meant to say that I am going to use golf cart batteries. I would love Trojans but can not justify the expense right now. Will get two GC2-RD batteries at Costco at $85 each. I have the same tool box from Home Depot so I think I will use that. I have no room inside the camper so I think I may build in a compartment in the bottom of the closet and vent it to the exterior of the damper. Thanks.