turtle
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Posts posted by turtle
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Depending on the age and condition of the unit it might be more economically viable to replace it with a new fridge rather than just replace the burner and coils.
There are a couple people who rebuild RV fridges using new parts (they replace the entire cooling unit, coils, burner, etc). It will be expensive to have the old one removed, packed, shipped, refurbished, reshipped, and reinstalled.
The cost of a completely new fridge is very close to having your old one rebuilt. If your old unit is showing its age (cracked or worn seals, rusty shelves, funky outside, exterior rust, etc) get a new one. There are "surplus" places that have over run new units for less than retail and with today's economy as it is many large RV locations will discount a big purchase item like this.
So the question is..... what model is yours and how old is it?
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If you have anything other than the factory 17.x gallon tank you have an aftermarket tank. As with any aftermarket product/part you will have to deal with the manufacture of the part/product if you have problems. Most of them used the factory mounts that were used on the 17.x gallon tanks. The best thing for you to do is to get under the RV and take a look at how yours is attached to see if supplemental supports were used
There were a few aftermarket fuel tank manufactures and some who made auxiliary tanks that work in conjunction with the stock fuel tank. There is no "standard/norm" for how these tanks were made or installed.
As to your floor flexing. A little give is normal. Pull back your carpet and take a look at the sub-floor to check for signs of past water leaks/damage. I would not worry about falling through. That won't happen with a Sunrader fiberglass shell.
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There was a free one on craigslist but it was out in Seattle (a ways for you to go even for free... unless you know someone out there)
http://seattle.craig...1330723059.html
There is one in Graham Texas 1-800-766-2009
One in Little Rock Ak 888-945-9685
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They are out there, you just need to do some calling around to salvage yards in your area. Most salvage yards are hooked up to a parts search network and if you call one they can search the surrounding area for what you are looking for and have it delivered.
When you get the axle get the springs and 4 rims along with it.
You will also have to modify the shock mounts as later model shocks mount to the frames not the cross member as the early ones do (this means new rear shocks also)
Where are you located (what state)?
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They have some square aluminum tubing and wood framing with solid insulation board between the framing. This is covered by thin paneling then on the outside there is filon (thin fiberglass sheets) and on the inside by plywood with wall paper on one side. All of this is glued together under pressure into what I call a "sandwich board" panel.
These panels are screwed together to make the coach body. The joints where the panels are screwed together are covered by aluminum channel with a vinyl screw cover running the length of it. The aluminum channel uses butyl putty tape as a waterproofing to seal the seams where it is assembled.
These channels as well as the windows and all roof "bits" (vents, stack covers, etc) need to be removed every 5-7 years and the old butyl putty tape removed and replaced with new butyl putty tape and everything put back together. The AC units use a rubber/foam gasket but everything else is just putty tape for a seal.
You can get a diagram/drawing of where the wood and tubing is located inside of the panel assembly from Winnebago if you want to attach something to the roof or sides.
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I have been using a Lenovo x300 for more than a year now. ultra portable (3 lbs - less then 1" thick), core 2 cpu, 4 gig ram, high rez graphics, 5 hour battery life, full size screen (13.3"), full size keyboard, built in verizon high speed, wireless nic, SSD (solid state drive), dvd/rw, and it has GPS on top of it all.
I've been VERY pleased with it
It is more than most people need in a lappy but I have to be connected 24/7/365. I am even considering putting a motosat on the roof (it's sitting in the corner of the garage now)
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the 1 ton axles came geared either 3.90:1 or 4.10:1 depending on if it was in an automatic or a stick shift.
I have changed the gearing in one to 4.56:1 (14 years ago) and am in the process of changing the gearing in my current Toyota RV to 4.56:1.
This seems to be a good compromise with top end speed and pulling power.
You can still run comfortably at 65 but you do not slow down on the hills (unless it is a killer)
I have purchased all of my rear end gears from Summit Racing (Ohio)
I always use Richmond Gear ring and pinion sets.
Don't forget to get an install kit with shims, spacers, and bearings when you get your gear sets
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Call some salvage yards in your local area. If they do not have one in stock have them search for one. Try to get a complete axle with springs and 6 rims.
They are not hard to locate. It might take a few days but you should be able to find all of the parts you need within driving distance of you.
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Since my roof is fiberglass, what do you guys think of glassing a dam in on top?
I built up a riser out of wood which was covered with fiberglass when I cover the entire roof in fiberglass. This was for a power vent not AC unit but the idea is the same.
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Hi there, I just stumbled upon this site while I was trying to find info on a 1978 Toyota Chinook that my dad gave me. I don't know anything about it, I know it definately needs work on the engine as well as the rest of the inside.
If anyone can help me with info on what they are worth if I were to sell it, or how much of a demand there is for these, also, if there is anyone located near Columbus, Ohio that can work on these -----PLEASE let me know!
Thanks for your time!
Condition determines price (as with anything). I've seen Chinooks sell for as little as $500 (requiring a chain to go get it) and as much as $10,000 for a pristine, garage kept cream puff.
The truck part is just a standard Toyota so anyone who can work on a Toyota should be able to work on it.
The coach interior just requires handyman/handygirl skills (basic plumbing, electric, carpentry).
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I've found that builders plastic covered by a plastic tarp is the most water proof (not pretty but works as good as keeping it inside). The builders plastic is waterproof and the tarp keeps it from blowing away. I attached boat cleats on the side to make tying the rope easier.
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http://www.rvwholesalers.com/catalog/adco-...ft-01-1144.html
You are right... they will be like a big sack over your little Toyota
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Hi all, I,ve been looking all over for info on new ft. and rear shocks for my 1983 Toy Dolphin. Alot of mfg. have them for 1984 and newer but I can't seem to find ones for 1983. Has any one replaced shocks for there 1983 Dolphin ? What part number and shock did u use ? Also I have the 6 lug 1 ton axle so when a parts guy asks "do you have a 1 ton chassis" do I say yes or do I say I have a 1 ton axle but a 1/2 ton pick up chassis ( which I think is what the think this puppy is ) ? I a bit confused here. I do know a little about mech. things but I'm lost when it comes the the suspension.......thks for any help....
Many shock manufactures no longer make shocks for the early Toyota trucks so your choices will be very limited for front shocks.
Since your rear axle has been replaced with a later model you would need to look under to see if they changed the mounting brackets to a later style or if they still use the early style.
The difference is easy to spot.
The early trucks (made before 1984) had the shocks that went from the spring holders directly up to a round cross bar.
The later trucks have one shock going forward of the axle and one shock going after the axle.
Here is a pic of my 1981 (early style) that I converted to a later style.
http://www.toymike.c...dieselUnder.jpg
If you look closely as the round cross bar (just below the tire mounting bar) you will see the old shock attachments.
If you truck has been changed to the later style mount you would use 1984 - 1988 1 ton truck.
You can always update the shock mounts by purchasing 2 upper shock mounts and having them welded onto the frame.
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Any idea if these will work on an '87 Nova Star (front wheels, 6 bolt pattern, one ton chassis)? We just purchased one but it doesnt have a spare. Our local Les Schwab is scratching their heads trying to figure out a rim to use. Someone told us that the rear duals were a one piece and that we should just keep a front spare.
Thanks in advance for the help!
The very early Toyota RVs had one piece faux duals on the rear.
Everything after 1985 will have separate rims.
All Toyota 1 ton 6 lug rims will work on all Toyota 1 ton trucks (this includes your RV)
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Hello Turtle: Both your ToyHomes are very clean. Both appear to be nice units. Is this the transition in your avatar to displaying your 1991 Sunrader? Good luck with both!
Here are both of them
I sold the diesel on Tuesday so I am down to just the 91 Sunrader shorty.
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I have 2 carefree colorado box awnings. They are the bomb. Fully self contained inside an aluminum box. Imposable for them to get away when you don't want them to.
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Gulfstream Greg, thank you.
So, we are working with those Buss type fuses. I am guessing we can rig them up similarly to make that tool...wire at each end, right? Also, what should I be looking at when I open up each non working light. The connection to the actual light. The wires connecting each light. All of it probably, right? I am sorry....it's novice electrician's eyes that you are dealing with. Thanks for your help.
I've found this tool useful when chasing shorts and open circuits.
http://www.powerprobe.com/powerprobe/ECT2000.html
It is not inexpensive but it saves a LOT of time.
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I removed the carpet, put down a luan subfloor and put vinly tile over that flat clean surface.
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So removing the remaining balance of stripes on the coach is not going to be accomplished this year or maybe ever on this old 87. Has anyone painted over these old stripes with a textured paint on the fiberglass portion of the coach? Possibly using a bed liner paint, or chip guard paint for the base coat? Then a second coat of paint for the actual color scheme?
My stripes have been exposed to too much direct sunlight with no protection for too many years. There is not going to be any easy removal solution on this ToyHome, other than pay someone to do the work.
The stripes on my old 87 coach are very similar to this pictured Gulfstream Conquest.
I removed the stripes on the front of the diesel before painting the cab. I used Vinyl-Off. Spray it on, wait a minute and the stripes and glue come right off (well 2 of the 3 stripes did anyway). The 3rd stripe required a Astro smart eraser.
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Hi,
My airbags are not holding air. I am having them looked at on Monday but if they need to be replaced, about how much do they cost? Is it better to get different shocks than the air ones? I had the "regular" shocks replaced last week - what's the difference? I can feel every pebble in the road with the way it is now - probably worse since the new "regular" shocks were put in.
I have a '92 Rockwood Roamer.
Thanks so much for your continued help!
Colleen
More than likely it is the air lines that are loose or worn. Have those looked at before you decide the actual air suspension has a problem.
Do you know what type of air suspension is on your coach? There are a couple out there.
Firestone Ride Rite are about the nicest. I heard that they were discontinuing the kits for Toyota motor homes because of their age and lack of sales. You can still get the bags and individual parts for them though if this is what you have.
As far as your "rough ride" Check the air pressure. Over inflated tires will ride hard. Weigh the coach and adjust your air pressure based on what is needed in the tires to support the load.
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I am getting to the "skin" stage of the repair of my cabover area. The coach had a foam type covering - paper on both sides and apx 1/4 inch of foam in between - then covered with wallpaper. - Made the walls kind of soft and "give" when pushed on. I'd like to use the foam "board" stuff again (but not the wallpaper...) Does anyone know where you can get that stuff?
Any other suggestions for a lightweight, easy to work with material for the walls would be glady considered.
I remember that someone used peal and stick cork squares that came in a wide selection of colors in their overhead bunk. They said it went on easy and added a lot of sound deadening and insulation.
I did a quick look for that thread but did not find it (it might have been in another board but I believe it was in here)
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How do you contact this dodad where you got your wheels
In Louisiana
You can get new ones from this source.
http://www.wheels-and-rims.com/cgi-bin/web...?p_prodid=18312
Used ones at salvage yards come and go so you have to be persistent and do a LOT of calling.
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Drop your rear end gears to 4.56:1 and drive between 50 and 55.
Much more enjoyable this way.
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It's the "cool factor"......
If people think it is cool.... It must be
Replacing shower walls
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
Both of the Toyota RVs I've owned had molded showers of either fiberglass or ABS. They were/are GREAT...... the only way to go in my estimation is a 1 piece or 2 piece solid molded shower. These CAN'T leak.
I'm not sure if you could find something like that for your Winnie as both mine were 18 footers and were small shower/head combinations.
If you are going to replace the walls you may want to do it with malemine tile board (MDF). This is home shower board. It is about as water resistant as you are going to get. If you want to take it a step further you can get sheets of ABS and glue that over the malemine. Once the ABS is caulked it would be 100% water proof as long as you keep it caulked and sealed.
You can get malemine shower board in a variety of colors and patterns from plain white to tile impressed to pretty patterns. There are several brand names of this product that you can go with if you want good quality such as Barker Board and Georgia Pacific.
I used a plain white malemine for the ceiling when I rebuilt the interior of the diesel. Looks great and it is won't "punk up" if it gets wet.