turtle
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Posts posted by turtle
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Thanks for your suggestions. I don't know if it has a steering stablizer, I check the KYB catalog and finds that there's only one (steering damper) for 4WD pickups, will that fit?
You would have to call KYB and ask them if it will work on a 2wd.
Rancho lists one for Toyota 2wd
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Oh, by the way, there's one more thing I'd like to ask. The steering of the MH is not stable, I don't know if there's too much freeplay on the steering wheel or some other thing but when the MH is on the highway (especially higher speed) it tends to swing a bit when there's crosswind and hard to control the MH to keep it straight, I wanted to fix that too because it's kinda dangerous, any ideas?
You can add a steering stabilizer if it does not have one. If it does have one check to make sure it is still dampening. This is mainly to give a more solid feel when turning the wheel and to dampen wheel shimmy when hitting pot holes.
You are GOING to get blown around in a cross wind.
Stiffening the suspension with Bilstein shocks will help the lean but you will still get blown around in the lane even if you do not lean.
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All of them use wood of some type or another as framing.
All of them except Sunrader use metal of some type or another as framing (later model Sunraders have a metal roof truss but none in the walls).
What are you trying to find out or decide?
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Sunrader made slide in campers, similar in size to their 18' RVs
They are difficult to locate if you want one but when they come up for sale they are not very expensive.
Get a 1 ton Toyota pickup truck (dual rear wheel axle with a bed on it) and the Sunrader camper will slide right in (and out). You can get side jacks and raise it and drive out then when you want to move on just back under it, lower the jacks, lock it down, and head out
To give you an idea of pricing I found a closed craigslist of a Sunrader slide in being sold in California for $150 (attached the add). When they come up they are usually reasonable but you have to be looking when they show up and you have to be timely to get one. Usually someone will just want it GONE as they have sold their truck and it is sitting in their yard.
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Thanks so much for the info. Guess I'll be looking for an auxiliary cooler soon. This mechanic said one of the lines to or from that aux cooler was clogged (not sure which one) so he flushed the cooler lines out. Hopefully that wasn't much labor cost.
Any suggestions on aux cooler brands/models? Are these things easy to install? I'm not super knowledgeable about mechanics.
Thanks in advance
Steve
Putting another cooler on requires cutting and bending one of the cooler lines then sliding hose over the cut line, clamping it, and taking the hose to another cooler and back.
You will need some specialized tools to do this (pipe/tubing cutter deburer, tubing bending tool, and it is nice to have a flaring tool to put a rise at the end of the cut pipe so that the hose does not slip off easily.
I used this tubing bender to make the brake and clutch pipes for my Landrover: http://www.toymike.com/misc/brakePipeBender.jpg There are other types of benders but you must make a clean smooth bend in the pipe and NOT kink it. If you do not have pipe bending tools you can take the hose straight and let it bend. You will have to use more hose as it does not bend as sharply with out kinking as easily as metal piping does.
If you have not done this it might be best to let someone else do it for you, or at least let someone take a look at it and give you a price for doing it. The size and shape of an aux cooler will depend on where you have room. The types made are limitless as far as size and thickness.
You may also want to flush and refill the transmission to remove the burned fluid (if the cooler line was clogged the ATF is probably toast). There are different schools of thought about flushing older auto trans. Some people advise against it others say it is fine to replace all of the fluid (trans and torque converter). Either way replace your old fluid with synthetic or part synthetic ATF.
A trans oil temp gage is a helpful thing to have in the cab. When you have the pan removed the shop can cut in and put a temp gage sensor and run a line for the gage. The only way to know what the trans is doing is to monitor the temperature of the fluid in the transmission.
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thanks.. i think i am gonna buy it for me and my woman, the band will find something else..
but what would you use to coverup a hole temporarily on the roof.. where the second AC should go its not there and we want to cover up the hole until we have the money to buy a new AC. and mind you we will probably take it on some trips in winter.. thanks!
You will enjoy it if using it as a couple. You may even use it as a stationary "lounge" at your gigs.
As Greg suggests get a standard roof vent and install it (cost is $25 +/- if you look around). Make sure you use putty tape to seal it to avoid leaks (even if you are using it as a temporarily fix)
As far as your idea of using it in the winter. BAD IDEA. These motor homes have minimal insulation and you will get VERY cold if the outside temp is moderately cool. There is no winterizing of the water system (fresh water, water heater, shower, toilet) and there is no winterizing of the waste tanks. The furnace is designed to take the chill off of an early spring, late fall morning and that is about it. I have used mine late in the year and even with down sleeping bags it is not comfortable at all. When you plan a late year trip think of it as going tenting. If you think it is too cold to pitch a tent and sleep outdoors it is probably too cold to take your Toyota RV also. Now maybe I am just an old fuddy duddy that grew up in L.A. (when it gets below 65 it is sweater weather for me).....
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When you start getting over 100k miles you start having wear on a lot of the major components as they are nearing the end of their designed service life. Things such as suspension bushings, wheel bearings, steering rack, transmission clutches, suspension, all sorts of things that can cost a LOT of money to replace. The price of a high mileage vehicle should be similar to one that is 4-5 years older. Assume that you "may" have to spend very near the purchase cost of the vehicle in the next 3-4 years on replacement equipment. Check the service records and see if major components have been replaced. If they have not, then assume that you will be the one replacing them. You are always better off to pay too much for a vehicle that has low mileage than to get a bargain on one with high mileage. Now too little use is almost as bad as too much use so keep this in mind if you come across a 20 year old vehicle with 10k miles on it.
No one can give you an opinion on any vehicle without seeing it and examining it. So any "advice" you get over the internet is only guess work.
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Your auto trans fluid needs to run between a set temp range to operate efficiently.
There is a dual purpose for using the water radiator to stabilize the trans temp. First is to heat the fluid up rapidly in cold start situations by using heat transfered from the water. Second is to keep the temp within the necessary temp range for proper operation.
When a vehicle is heavily loaded as in towing or carrying a heavy weight (like our RVs) the fluid becomes too hot even using the engine water to stabilize the temp. Thus the need for a secondary air exchange radiator to cool it down before it goes back into the trans.
You can replace the factory stock trans cooler with a larger one or you can add a "supplemental" cooler in conjunction with the stock one. Most people just cut one of the lines on the stock cooler and branch out to a second cooler as this "adds" cooling capacity. If you replace the stock cooler you may not end up with much more cooling ability since you are taking one out of service and replacing it with another one. I would suggest that you add a secondary cooler rather than replace the primary one (unless the primary cooler is damaged or clogged).
In ether case never remove the lines going to the water radiator as you need it to heat up the trans fluid on cold start situations.
Using a synthetic or synthetic blend ATF will help a lot as they can run at higher temperatures before breaking down.
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I removed the proportioning valve entirely on my 1981 diesel when I installed the 1 ton axle (14 years ago). Brakes worked GREAT with the same pressure going to front and rear
On the Sunrader I replaced the "automatic" proportioning valve with a Wilwood "manual" proportioning valve.
THIS IS NOT A RECOMMENDATION THAT YOU SHOULD DO THIS!
Messing around with how you vehicle's brakes operate is one of the most dangerous things you can do if you do NOT know what you are doing!!!!!
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Have you tried Toyota?
I have had good luck getting discounted parts from this dealer in Michigan
http://www.toyotapart.com/default.asp
Give them a shout (800-681-3033) and get OEM replacement lug nuts for about what over the counter Chinese ones will cost you
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Thanks Turtle, I'll check Hammerite out.
Call your local hardware stores. I found it locally at several hardware stores.
The silver grey hammered metal finish looks the nicest on rims but it comes in a lot of colors (like all paint does). The "hammered" finish hides a lot of the imperfections that your rusty rims will have.
http://www.paint-col...0&cat=30&page=1
The first coat lasted 14 years and still looked nice but I put another coat on last year and it looked like new again
It's good stuff.
Here is the before and after so you can see the difference (before was taken 14 years ago just after the axle was installed... notice the chalked arrow on the tire showing the original rotation from the salvage yard truck)
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I painted the rims using Hammerite paint. It looks slick as it dries to a "fish eye" finish looking like the surface has been formed with a hammer. Very easy. Take the rims off. Sand them. Wipe them down with lacquer thinner. Brush on the paint. This paint is designed to go directly over rust but it is best to prep the surface as much as you can before painting. As an alternative you can get stainless steel wheel simulators. These are rather expensive and your rims will continue to rust under them.
Hammerite painted rim:
Stainless Steel Wheel Simulator
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Thanks for bringing the photo gallery back.
The missing icon is...... http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/public/style_images/21122702147/folder_team_icons/member4.gif
Don't know exactly "what" it is/was but it is used by the forum software and it is not in the folder where it is supposed to be.
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the one is seattle is 1/2 ton (5 lug). I took a look at it.
If anyone knows of any around in the northwest or CA that would be stellar.
Binford Auto Wrecking Kent Washington 1-253-854-8000 ($400)
Ally Cat's Auto Wrecking Visalia California 1-559-636-1244 ($350)
High Desert Auto Salvage Hasperia California 760-981-1234
Pearson's Auto Wrecking Ridgecrest California 1-800-446-5865
Steelhead Recyclers Goleta California 1-805-683-8557
Midnight Auto Recyclers San Bernardino California 1-800-872-5211
Atlas Auto Salvage Hasperia California 1-760-244-9358
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Where did the user's photo galleries go?
There is no longer a link to them.....
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Don't forget woot I've seen lower end refurbished lappys for $2-300 but they go fast.
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In the past I have always used Axxis Metal Master pads but they no longer make these for the older Toyota trucks.
You can go over what they offer on this site (good pricing also)
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What about replacing the engine with a 22r engine? Theoretically, it wouldn't require any new fabrication for mounts and such, and it seems like it would give me at least some boost in power. I found a long block 22re delivering 130 hp for not too much. The V8 swap is out of the question, I think, as it's going to cost me a small fortune to do it. The swap kits are expensive, and a couple of the shops don't even think I could fit a 350 into this little truck without lifting it. That, and better fuel economy, are the reasons I was thinking of a 302 instead of a 350. It's a smaller block, and can get better fuel mileage than the 350. I found a few places making parts for a 302 swap, but nothing on prices. About the only price I managed to get was from V8Conversions.com, which quoted me about $11,000 to do the swap for a Chevy V6. That's just a wee bit over my budget, if you know what I mean. I would much rather just stick to driving at 40 mph all the time.
Your 20R engine has 96 hp
A 22R engine will have 97 hp
A 22RE will have 105 hp (it is computer controlled EFI)
A 3VZ-E (3.0 V6) will have 145 hp
Even going all the way to a 22RE you only gain 9 hp. Cost for a healthy 22RE and paying someone to install it for you...... $3-4k Don't think about a Toyota 3.0 or any later EFI engine unless you can get a "install kit" as the mods are extensive (engine compartment, mounts, EFI, it is a nightmare)
I lived with a 2L diesel motor home that had 82 hp for 14 years. You DO get used to it after a while.
Some things you can to do your 20 R engine that will help.
First things to do.....
#1 Tune it up (new plugs, points, plug wires)
#2 Keep fresh oil in it (change it at 2500 miles)
#3 Change the fuel filter (take off everything on the fuel line and only use a factory filter)
#4 Run only high octane fuel (premium)
#5 Maintain proper air pressure in your tires (look at the recommended max on the tire and do not over inflate but do NOT under inflate)
More expensive things you can do (minimal performance increases)
#1 Webber carb (36/36 model)
#2 Headers and free flow exhaust
#3 Electronic ignition
Most expensive things you can do
#1 Re-gear to 4.56:1
If you do all of this you can get closer to the hp/torque/pull that a stock V6 puts out from your 4 cyl 20R but you better make sure that the 20R you start with is healthy before you start "beefing it up" and asking it do do more than it was designed to do. Anytime you do performance enhancements you decrease the longevity.
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I had another idea last night abput getting a little more power, and it might be a little easier than shoe-horning a 302 or a 350 into this little rig. How well do you suppose a Ford 2.3 four banger would do? I can get a little 2300 without too much trouble, and I can get quite a lot of aftermarket parts for it. I could even go for a Thunderbird Turbocoupe and get a turbo 2300. Of course, that would require more fabbing than dropping a 350 in would, since there are parts out there to help with the 350 swap.
Not sure if it would really help much. The Ford 2300 wasn't much more powerful than this little 20r. The Turbocoupe was better, but I don't know how much, and that would require installation of EFI, and I'm not sure I want to tackle that, as well. The turbo would definately up the top-end power some, though. For the foreseable future, I'll just be driving at 40-45mph everywhere I go, I guess.
If you use a 350 Chevy you can get a complete kit with everything you will need, mounts, wiring harness, throttle, radiator...... the works. There have been people putting 350 Chevy's in Toyota trucks for over 30 years. It is all down to a simple step by step kit with everything you will need.
If you use anything else you will have to design and fabricate everything yourself
If you are a good automotive engineer and a good from the ground up fabricator go for installing anything under the hood. If you are like most of us joe six pack types, go with the simple stick it together yourself kit.
I have seen a couple Toyota RVs with 350 Chevy engines with GM automatics in them. They are a clean fit and they work. If you are worried about the weight of the cast iron 350 find a Buick aluminum block V8.
Lots of people make complete GM/Toyota swap kits.
http://www.northwest...neadapters.html
http://advanceadapte...on-package.html
Your truck is an older model so finding a complete kit for it might take a little calling around
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Have you drained the holding tank yet?
It may be full and over flowing when unlevel.
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These Toyota RVs are nice for 1 person, maybe a couple but more than that and it is way to small. Not only small physically but the holding tanks would have to be emptied 2-3 times a DAY if 4 people were using it for a long trip and overnighting in it. These things were made for short weekend vacations get aways for 1 or 2 people. Sure you see the pretty sales brochures with a smiling couple and a few little kids enjoying themselves but believe me if you get more than a wife coming along with you it will be "hel!! on wheels" within 3 hours. Not to mention that you will still have to drag along a box van with all your "stuff" in it.
If you are looking for a short or long range band vehicle get a bus and make a portion of it a living area and keep the rest for instrument, pa, and lighting storage.
Depending on where you live, retired school busses can be purchased at city/county/state auctions for little to nothing and they come in many sizes from shorties to full length diesel coachs.
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About the only thing you can do to alleviate the "slow as $#!+" aspect of a 20r powered motor home is to do a V8 transplant. There are several companies that make 350 Chevy swap kits (mostly for the 4x4 crowd). Anything other than this is only a minimal improvement, although my V6 shorty is rather peppy. The cost of any engine swap is the time/labor so it is best to go the whole enchilada and get a modern V8 and auto trans. Believe it or not your gas mileage will go up with a V8 dragging you around as it does not need to work as hard as your little 4 banger.
I owned a 1981 2L 83 hp diesel powered Toyota motor home for 14 years. It had far less HP than your gas engine. You do get used to traveling slow, given enough time. Stay off of the interstates and if you do have to travel interstate for a few miles keep it under 55 and stick in the slow lane.
There are a few tricks you can do like lowering the rear end gearing to 4.56:1 but unless you have a 1 ton rear end it would be a waste of money to do anything to the light weight 1/2 ton rear axle other than taking it out and replacing it.
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You may want to consider an earlier 4x4 truck or spending some additional cash and putting in a solid front axle.
Anything more than a light slide in camper or a small Chinook might be straining the IRS front suspension more than it was designed to handle.
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If you are talking about the aluminum channel that goes around the exterior with the vinyl screw covers. Reuse the original as bending new ones to fit will never work and you will always have leaks.
Remove the old aluminum channel, clean off the old putty tape, put new putty tape on the underside of the channel and replace it. Put on new screw cover.
Your leaks are more than likely from the windows and the marker lights if it is the bunk area. Remove the marker lights and windows and put new putty tape on them and put them back on.
This needs to be done every 5-7 years and you can bet that it has never been done on your coach (no one does it because no one knows it needs to be done and those that do know HATE doing it). You need to remove all side channels, marker lights, windows, roof vents, and stacks and replace the putty tape on them every 5-7 years also.
Owning an RV is just as high maintenance as owning a boat. All boats want to do is sink and it is a constant effort to keep them from NOT sinking. All RVs want to do is leak and it requires the same constant diligence to keep them from rotting away.
You can keep a boat out of water to lower the maintenance on it just like you can keep an RV in a garage to lower the maintenance on them. Most people do not keep their RVs in a garage, I do.
Things that go squeak in the night
in General Discussion
Posted
Where water, sewer, gas lines go through the floor.
Refer, furnace, water heater doors/vents (screen them)
Electric connect box (leaves a nice hole and ladder for them when you are plugged in). The only way to eliminate this one is to go with a marine inlet.
They can get in from the engine compartment. Check where the AC line and wiring goes through the firewall.
They can get in through the cab cowling vent into the heater box (keep unit on recirculate)
Any holes/gaps can be stuffed with butyl putty tape (they hate this stuff).
If you can put bait boxes in safe locations you can use poison but if you kill one it will get stinky for a few weeks (pew)
I've never had a mouse get into any of my RVs but I can't seem to keep them out of the heater box on my Toyota pickup for some reason.