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toyohome

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Posts posted by toyohome

    Tow hitch

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Thanks Linda,

    Looks good, but I have a concern about dragging the MC long distances on the road like that. Also concerned about damage to MC transmission.

    So I think it's back to square one.

    I have a small highway trailer that weighs 150#.  With the 300# MC total weight would be around 450# with an approx. hitch weight of 45#.  I have replaced the original tin foil bumper with a heavy duty steel bumper (homemade).  With those stats, I don't see how that would make a significant difference, do you? Frame bumper attachments have been reinforced.

    Can you give me your blessing on this option?

    Toyohome (Paul)

    Tow hitch

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Derek, 

    Another good point.  I did a little measuring and have decided that it is not going to work because of the decreased visability. It would be about a foot (what's that in meters) above the hood.  HOWEVER,  this really was a great idea whose time just has not come!  Thanks for your input and help.

    Maybe I could put the bike inside or on the roof.  Hmmmm.  Or maybe I just need a bigger motorhome.  On second thought, maybe not.

    Tow hitch

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Just now, DanAatTheCape said:

    my warrior's owners manual forbids trailering anything.

     

    The chassis ends at the aft end of the rear leaf springs.  The extension is beefy enough for the cabin, but not for towing anything.  Might want to lay on your back and take a really good look at how yours is constructed

    Clarification:  I am not TOWING (or trailering) anything.   I will be CARRYING a 300# motorcycle.  Rear carry vs. front carry.  I appreciate your input and I have decided against carrying on the back .  I have pretty much decided to carry on the front because of the rear weight, overhang, and dragging problems.  I am also familiar with the owners manual recommendations about weight limits and towing.   My only concern at this point is front mount problems such as airflow and anything else someone may be aware of.  Otherwise, I think front mount will be better weight and handling wise.  I do have new Bilstein shocks and the front suspension is in good solid shape.

    Again, are there any other thoughts on the front mount idea?  Am I missing anything?  Does anyone have any experience with using a front mount hitch?

    Thanks, mucho!

    Tow hitch

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    I have an '87 Dolphin with the 22RE.  I also have a Honda Rebel (about 300#) I would like to carry on the back.  I have a light single rail motorcycle carrier that will plug into my receiver.

    Important questions:

    Am I overloading it?  Will it significantly affect handling (make the front end light)?  Would it be better to add a front receiver/hitch and carry the Rebel in the front?  Is this likely to decrease airflow to the radiator?

    The rear mount system will extend the load back about 2 1/2 feet from the rear bumper thus causing some dragging over dips and driveways.

    The front mount option seems good, but I really need all your expert advice and comments.  Thanks so much!

    Terrible gas mileage V-6

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Diagnosis started with death shimmy caused by warped rotors which were caused by dragging brakes.  Then there was the loss of power  and poor mileage.  Finally I noticed that after stopping on a hill, the motorhome would not roll when the brake pedal was released.

    The easiest way to check this is to put it on a lift, step on the brake, then release the brake.  Try to spin the wheels.  They should spin freely and if not, the brakes are not releasing fully.  To locate the problem start looking at the wheels/brakes and work you way back to the MC.  Again, collapsed brake hoses are quite common on old vehicles.

    My final solution was the MC after exhausting all other possibilities.

    It also solved the death shimmy problem with new rotors.

    Good luck. Keep us posted on what you find.

    Terrible gas mileage V-6

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    On 5/24/2017 at 8:14 AM, redskinman said:

    I've probably only put about 6 or 7 hundred miles on rig since buying it and it's gotten terrible gas mileage. I was blaming it on the misfire I had but since replacing fuel injs and fixing misfire it hasn't gotten any better. Filled it up after fixing misfire, after driving it home from shop yesterday {getting valves adjusted} it was down to almost 1/4 tank so I filled it up again. It only went 94 miles on 3/4 tank for little under 10 mpg, that sucks!! One of the main reasons for buying this rig was for gas mileage, I wasn't expecting 20 mpg but I was expecting 12-13 at the very very least and hoping for 14-15 mpg. I would say 75% of this latest tank was highway miles. It's got new plugs, wires, pcv valve, fuel filter, new wires, new fuel injs, new distributor and cap, there's no reason for this bad of gas mileage, it's not even weighted down yet for a road trip. What the heck?

    I am not using overdrive at all, which I guess would improve gas mileage some. I've read many posts about using overdrive with most being don't use it, but a recent facebook post was talking about it and everyone said if you have a V-6 leave it in OD all the time UNLESS the load on it is constantly shifting in and out of gear. So should I leave it in OD and how much better do you think that's going to improve gas mileage?

    I had poor mileage too until I finally discovered a defective master cylinder.  The MC was keeping slight pressure on the calipers and thus causing poor mileage.  Brake fluid was not returning to the MC after braking.  I replaced pads, hoses, calipers and MC in the process.  It's a good idea to replace those hoses anyway because they can collapse on the inside and cause the same sticking problem.  Buy the best hoses money can buy and if your's haven't been changed yet, put it on your maintenance list ASAP.

    Join the TOYOTA RV RALLY in Quartzsite, AZ - Jan. 20 - 23, 2017

    in Rallies & Toy Ins

    Posted

    On 7/4/2017 at 4:40 PM, linda s said:

    I have no idea but Tika always posts here in plenty of time. I'm sure if you Googled motorhome show in Quartzite Az for 2018 you would find out the dates it's going to happen. Toyota rally always goes on the whole show time I think. I have never gone. Not my bag

    Linda S

    Thanks Linda.  But you just don't know what you are missing!  I would encourage you to join us along with everyone who has never attended the Quartzite rally.

    Baja and/or mainland

    in Rallies & Toy Ins

    Posted

    Welcome Steve,

    We are tentatively planning a Baja trip in January 2018 in conjunction with the Quartzite rally.  We would like to look at the possibilities of traveling down Baja with you.

    Look at my ad for Dolphin seats on this website and give us a call if interested in traveling together.

    Paul and Judy

    Mississippi

    12 volt and CPAP

    in Electrical

    Posted

    I recently started using a CPAP and need to use it when I'm in the boonies.  I have a 90 watt, plug in  inverter that I would like to use.  The CPAP is 115 volt and 60 watts.  I have two deep cycle batteries and would need to draw power for an average of eight hours. 1. Would I be overloading the 12 volt socket/wiring? (I prefer to avoid any electrical fires particularly while I am sleeping). And, 2. Would I have adequate power to run the CPAP off my two auxiliary batteries?

    Electrical Wizard advice is appreciated!

    Mice

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    I've had the same problem and found that retail available Tomcat blocks really do work. A block or two inside the motorhome and under the hood will definitely get rid of them. The rodents chew on the very tasty blocks instead of wires. It works!

    If you don't like the poison methods I would recommend you get, instead of Tomcat, Just a cat. But you have to get one that is very hungry. The problem then is getting rid of cat pee odors inside the MH. We'll address that here in the forum following our rodent discussion.

    Recently I discovered chewed wires under the hood of my ToyoTacomapickup. I put a Tomcat block there and shortly thereafter, noticed it had been chewed on. Then I discovered a water moccasin near the truck with a fat bulge in his belly. Two problems solved with one poison block! It works!

    Yearly Registration Fees

    in General Discussion

    Posted

    Passman, What state are you in???

    I pay Nada! Zilch! Nothing! In Mississippi, for vehicles over age 25, you pay a one time tag fee of $25 for an antique tag. Never renew it. Good for life and totally free after that first registration. Just one more benefit of living in this beautiful state! I just tagged my 1966 Mustang 2+2 a couple weeks ago. $25.00!

    Replace Your Brake Hoses!

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Thanks for posting this. I have been looking at brake lines and wondering if I should replace? Mine look like OE.

    Need a kit # now. Every PM part you could possibly need to replace on a 93 V6 auto kit. Something under $10,000 would be nice. :clown2: JIm SW FL

    Jim,

    I would suggest you replace them. Even if your hoses look good, you cannot tell about the inside condition.

    I like Rock Auto for parts. Good service, good prices and quality parts. Raybestos has a very good reputation for quality brake items. Try to avoid "Made in China" quality.

    Replace Your Brake Hoses!

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Update:

    I have a next door neighbor who bought a Toyota Winnebago based on my recommendation for Toyota MH. In driving his MH back, he discovered all the same problems that I had and used the same solutions.

    I'm amazed that this same problem occurred so close to home. Apparently it's more common than one would imagine. If you're experiencing the same problems of poor mileage, shimmy, brakes dragging, lack of power, etc., take a look at this solution.

    Generator Question (Again!)

    in Electrical

    Posted

    I have a solid, non vented, generator compartment door. I also have an hour meter/starter with wiring inside. That tells me that once upon a time there was in fact a generator there. Also, the access door could have been changed to a non vented type but I wonder about the likelihood of that.

    My question remains (for you Onan owners): Is the floor of your compartment fully open (for ventilation) or does it just have holes drilled for exhaust and oil drain?

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