thetundrawolf
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Posts posted by thetundrawolf
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In my daughters town they have a place to take your garbage when your not in a pick up zone. They weigh your vehicle when you come in and the again when you leave to figure the cost. Looks like Prescott has the same. Look at the transfer station here
http://www.prescott-az.gov/services/trash/
Looked on Google and it looks they do the same. That's a scale going in and out
https://www.google.com/maps/@34.5790126,-112.4236382,50m/data=!3m1!1e3
Just ask the guys and offer to pay the 5 dollar minumum
Linda S
Just told my daughter I suggested this to you and she says she recommends the same to guys who come into her work who are doing modifications. She works at California DMV and she says the scales at the dump are very accurate.
Oh yes, that's just down the street from me! Fantastic, thank you VERY much for this! I never would have considered it. I was ready to take a 200 mile round trip. Thank you!!
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Has anyone seen this?
http://wherewheelgo.com/toyota-dolphin
From the above link:
Toyota DolphinDolphin 500 Specifications Performance- Fuel consumption* … 14.2 mpg
- Acceleration time:
0-60 … 26.2 seconds
40-60 … 18.9 seconds
*Fuel consumption recorded at 55 mph, 1000-feet elevation, predominately flat highway, Ambient temperature 75 degrees F.
Chassis- Chassis Manufacturer … Toyota
- Engine … 2.4 Liter
Net horsepower … 87 @ 4800 rpm
Net torque … 190 @ 2800 rpm - Transmission … Transmission
- Axle ratio … 4.10:1
- Tire Size … 185R-14LT
- Wheelbase … 137″
- Brakes … Front disc/rear drum
- Suspension … Front torsion bar/rear leaf
- Cooling system … HD
- Fuel capacity … 17.2 gal
- Ext length … 21’7″
- Ext width … 6’11”
- Ext height … 9’2″
- Frame construction … Steel
- Insulation … Block foam
- Freshwater cap … 17.5 gal
- Sink/shower holding cap … 19 gal
- Waste holding cap .. 19 gal
- Propane cap … 5 gal
- Water system type … Demand
- Furnace … 16,000 BTU
- Refrigerator … 4 cu ft
- Toilet … Freshwater
- Converter … 30 amp
- Base sugg. price … $24,500
- Price as tested … $24,500
(Water, propane, fuel tanks full; no passengers or supplies)
- Front axle … 1660 lbs
- Rear axle … 3360 lbs
- Right side … 2580 lbs
- Left side … 2440 lbs
- Total … 5020 lbs
- Front gawr … 2200 lbs
- Rear gawr … 3700 lbs
- Gvwr* … 5950 lbs
*Owner may add up to 930 pounds in weight of passengers and supplies to motorhome test coach without violating manufacturer’s maximum gvwr.
Gawr: grass axle weight rating
Gvwr: gross vehicle weight ratingMicro-mini motor homes have always offered good value—a relatively large amount of living space and convenience, on a chassis that delivers fuel economy in the 12- to 15-mpg range. Many manufacturers, however have had a tendency over the years to add more and more appliances and equipment, to the point that the original concept of a compact, light-weight, economical motorhome was hardly recognizable.
National RV, manufacturer of the Dolphin, has consistently attempted to apply the brakes as the micro-mini has grown more and more corpulent. Currently, the company is leading efforts to the the micro-mini back on target and offer a realistic allowance for the weight of passengers, fuel and supplies that are added by the owner. The result is the Dolphin Model 500—a 21.7-footer built on the Toyota chassis—that offers a 775 pound payload capacity with full fuel, propane and freshwater tanks and many more options, including roof and dash air-conditioners, cruise control and AM/FM stereo. Its payload is adequate for a rig of this size, when used realistically.
Even though the Dolphin is compact, it features a fully equipped galley. Built on a Toyota foundation, this micro-mini offers enough payload capacity to comfortably accommodate a small family.
Driving This 137-inch-wheelbase rig is, to say the least, easy. The 2.4-Liter, electronic fuel injected engine propels the 5020-pound (2.5 ton) rig down the road quite well. Our test vehicle was equipped with an overdrive automatic transmission, which worked flawlessly. Overdrive was definitely for the flatlands, however. The slightest hill or grade caused the transmission to shift back and forth, typical of overdrives combined with heavy loads. The overdrive remained in gear while cruising at 55 mph, but upon increasing speed to 65, the increased wind resistance was too much for the “tall” gear, and a constant shifting back and forth resulted. The overdrive can be locked out by pushing the button on the column-mounted shifter.
As expected, the 0-to-60-mph times were nothing to write home about, but were proportional to the size of the engine and weight of the coach. The test rig had only 57 miles on it, and the engine felt right; the best 0-to-60 time was 26.2 seconds. Passing simulation tests required 18.9 ticks of the clock to go from 40 to 60 mph.
The mileage, of course beats the pants off that of larger motorhomes. Driving with an “egg” under my foot, the best mpg figure was 14.2. If pushed hard and drives at 65 mph for any length of time, with some second-gear grade pulling, fuel economy dropped to 12.8. This may improve a little with a fully broken-in engine, but still it’s very respectable for a motorhome. With the 17.2-gallon fuel tank, a reasonable cruising range of about 220 miles can be expected.
One of the biggest advantages of the Model 500 is its ability to handle mountain roads. With its low stance, the suspension seems to hunker down and really work on twisty asphalt. We were surprised by how well rig felt when pushed hard into a turn. Dolphin installs air bags at the rear axle to assist in fully supporting the coach’s weight. A sizable factory rears-stabilizer bar also contributes to the good road manners.
At an elevation of 6000 feet, the power of the little four-banger dropped off somewhat, but the difference was minor. Second gear was required much of the time at elevation on grades; we did not encounter any that required first gear. The Dolphin braked as well as it cornered. Gearing down to second went a long way toward minimizing application of the brake pedal. Even with hard use, the front-disc/rear-drum combination never faded.
Twice during our test we had the opportunity to face some stiff crosswinds, and the Dolphin took them in stride. The power steering that Toyota uses transmit accurate road feel; it’s not mushy nor is it too stiff.
ConstructionThe Dolphin Model 500 features fiberglass laminated side walls in sandwich constriction with block foam insulation and interior paneling. The exterior roof is a one-piece seamless aluminum sheet, as is the front cap. The flooring also contains foam-block insulation and is covered by a full aluminum underbelly for weather protection
The Model 500 seems to meet all the requirements for micro-mini Motorhoming in style and in safety. The 930-pound load capacity, coupled with ample storage, ease of handling and second-car practicality, make this rig an economical family-oriented RV.
Just aft of the cockpit area is the streetside bath. Equipped with a small corner shower (6-footers will have to duck slightly; the shower height is 5 feet 81/4 inches), sink and Thetford freshwater flush toilet, the space can be called adequate—although not large. Immediately to the rear of the bath is the large wardrobe, which measures 25 × 18 × 45 inches high.
The Model 500’s curbside entrance is opposite to the bath. Upon entry, to the left is a large storage cabinate that measures a full 30 inches high and 16 inches wide. Inside, three shelves hold items that are frequently needed outdoors, such as a flashlight, charcoal lighter fluid and matches. Aft of this cabinet is the galley.
Dolphin selected the Dometic 2401 two-way (LP-gas/120-volt AC), 4-cubic-foot refrigerator for the Model 500 galley. It’s mounted at the floor level, which helps to lower the center of gravity of the rig, while creating a good size 25 × 17-inch contertop above. In fact, this Dolphin coach had more counter space than some Class A’s we’ve tested that were 8 feet longer! The four burner rangetop, with its folding stainless steel gover is found just to the rear of the refrigerator. On the opposite side of the range is yet another counter, measuring 23 × 18 inches. Beneath the range is a huge 22 × 22-inch storage area with a 12-inch-high door that’s perfect for storing pots and pans. Under the rearmost counter there are three drawers.
Completing the galley cooking area is the double stainless steel sink. Its location, Immediately across from the range and counter top facilitates function in the galley. Movement from the refrigerator to the range to sink is efficient. Below the sink is another large cabinet. This one measures 23 × 20 and has a 24-inch high door opening. Additional galley storage is found above the refrigerator, counters, range and sink.
The Model 500 features a dinette that comprises the rear 60 inches of the coach. It’s a U-shaped unit, which we found would seat four very comfortably. When not being used at mealtime, the dinette converts into a 60 × 80-inch queen-size bed. There’s room here for even the largest adults to sleep in comfort. In fact, for a family of four, the adults are best off in the rear bed, while kids love it “upstairs.” Under the galley and rear bed are two large 25 × 60-inch storage compartments.
When traveling, the windows in the galley area provide a panoramic view of the passing scenery. For privacy, attractive blue-gray drapes easily pull across the windows.
The Exterior of the Dolphin is laid out as well as the interior. Frankly, We didn’t expect to find any storage on the outside, considering the amount of inside storage, but there it was. A large curbside compartment can accommodate a barbecue, a bad of charcoal, a lantern and even a few logs for a campfire. Just to the rear of thes door is another, smaller storage area that provides access clear across the rear of the rig. Fishing gear, a shovel and an axe fit easily into this compartment.
On the streetside exterior access doors for the 5-gallon propane tank (with sight gauge), water heater and electric/cable-TV hookup. The coach’s deep cycle battery is also kept on this side, behind a vented door. Battery access is excellent.
DriveabilityThe Model 500 is built on the Toyota chassis cab. Dolphin has recertified the Toyota chassis gross vehicle weight rating to 5950 pounds (~3 tons). The rear-axle rating has also been increased to 4250, which is 550 pounds over Toyota’s 3700-pound rating. Dolphin was able to achieve this higher rating by redesigning the spring hangers and shackles, adding air bags and recalibrating the brake system’s proportioning valve. Toyota’s front axle rating of 2050 pounds remains the same. Our weight slip from the scales showed the rear axle weighing in a 3360 pounds, leaving an 890-pound reserve capacity. Tire capacity is more than adequate; with duals in the rear, it’s a whopping 6100 pounds (3.05 tons)! In past years, design of the rear drive axle was semi floating; now, it’s full-floating. A semi-floating axle must do two jobs: support the weight of the vehicle and drive the wheels. A full floating axle drives only the wheels. Vehicle weight is carried entirely by the hub assembly, which is supported by two large roller bearings that send the load on to the differential housing.
The new wheels that Toyota is using are built to heavy-duty truck specifications. The center sections feature an extra-wide, six-lug-bolt pattern for good load distribution. All wheels are interchangeable; the spare tire will fit any wheel position.
LivabilityDolphin has always offered colorful yet tasteful interior appointments and fabrics. The micro-mini line is no exception. Rather than the usual earth tones, a luxurious soft gray blue theme is carried throughout. Light metallic maroon striping and graphics on the outside make for a sharp-looking rig. Interior paneling is light oak, which goes perfectly with the fabrics. Lighting is handled by an abundance of incandescent fixtures and some well-placed high-intensity reading lights.
The cabover-bed area is roomy and comfortable, allowing two adults to sleep comfortably on the 5-inch-thick foam foundation. A handy carpeted step is built in directly behind the passenger seat in the cockpit and a wall-mounted handle is located in just the right place to provide easy access to the cabover bed.
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Can anyone tell me a way to find out if there are any scales near me? I searched and apparently there is one a hundred miles away in Phoenix (I am in Prescott, az).
I want to do a before and after weigh...
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looks like a good opportunity to take it down to the frame and transplant a fiberglass shell onto the frame.
I have considered this. Fiberglass is a better insulator temperature wise. but it also weighs more. And I need something I don't have: A donor. I would consider it if I had a donor to be honest. But right now I have a ton of aluminum siding I got from A 40ft fifth wheel trailer.
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The use of "1 ton" with a truck or just an axle is not a specific term. The connotaton of it comes from what a 1 ton truck might have. A 1 ton truck needs at least an axle capable of carrying the weight of the truck PLUS a short-ton of 2000 lbs. If the truck already weighs 2000 lbs. in back, then the "1 ton' axle needs to be rated for at least 4000 lbs. My Dodge 3/4 ton truck has a rear axle rated for 8,800 lbs. I.e over 4 tons.
I had no idea. Thanks for the information. My old axle was bent maybe 1/4" upward at the end.
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What on God's green earth are you talking about? I am "incorrect" about what? You lost me The rest of your post that follows "incorrect" has nothing to do with anything I've posted.
Sorry. That was posted some time ago. But the axle end being bent simulates a bent axle housing. You are partially correct, the splines were so expanded from the heat it took a ton of force to get the half shaft out of the differential. Lots of pounding and pulling. Almost welded a stud to it to get it out. The new half shaft slid in with a slight interference, same as the other side. The effect of flexing the end plate was such that it burst out like in the pics I first posted. So a bent axle housing will stress the plate.
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I guess I understand what you are describing. The main parts of the axle that need to be "straight" or better said, in exactly the same plane, are the two axle stubs. The housing inbetween the stubs could have all kinds of bends in it and it would not make the wheels "wobble" when rotated. If one axle was out of plane with the other and you rotated the axle-housing with the wheels stationary on the ground - they you'd have lots of wheel wobble.
Exactly. It wasn't so much the housing itself as the axle stub that was bent upward. The new axle housing was inspected with a laser for straightness. The swap was easy, and I decided to go with a new crush sleeve for the pinion shaft, just to make sure everything was fresh.
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I purchased a new housing and half shaft and it seems to be holding.
Got an FJ80 axle for the front and a trans with transfer case gonna make it 4wd.
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Can't see much of it in the pics but sure looks like the regular Toyota 6 lug full float axle to me. Maybe he thought because it's called a 1 ton axle it's only rated for that
Linda S
Yeah, honestly, why call it a one ton?
What sort of full-floating axle is only rated 2000 lbs? I can't think of any. Dana 23-2 is the smallest I've ever seen and it's rated a little over 3000 lbs. Used on 40s military Jeeps. The full-floater used in theToyota RVs has over a 5000 lb rating.
I bought a full floating Toyota from a guy who had a nineties pickup in his bone yard. I put it under my RV and drove it about 600 miles before it blew out. Turned out the passenger side was bent, and the driveshaft on that side flexed until it blew the six bolt end plate out. Luckily it blew out right in my drive way!
I bought another housing and I was back on the road. Here is the thread: http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=6341&hl=
Since installing the new housing, I have put a lot of weight in the RV moving my stuff from an emergency move in CA to AZ. At least a half ton of extra weight, probably more than that, but not over a full ton.
Where do you get the 5,000 pound rating on the axle?
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What you say is impossible. At least on this planet and this dimension. Am I misreading something? An inverter drawing 11.4 amps @ 12 volts is going to be lucky to provide an output of 125 watts. Nowhere near 540 watts. If you want 540 watts from an inverter running on 12 volts - the input will be using 47-48 amps of current. Makes no difference it the inverter is being callled "sine wave" or "modified wave." In fact the cheaper modified-wave inverters are often more efficient. The "sine-wave" inverters do make a better wave but the portable ones usually do NOT make a true curved sine-wave. A 1000 watt inverter capable of making a true sine-wave is going to cost a couple of thousand bucks. An inverter that makes a wave that is close to a sine-wave and sold as a "true sine wave" is going to cost $250-$300. A 1000 watt modified-wave inverter can be had for $75. I own over dozen inverters called "true sine wave" and have experimented with them all. Many subtle differences and it's more-or-less a crap shoot.
As to the need for 2, 4, or 6 large six-volt deep cycle batteries? The big factor is voltage drop inside the battery cases when using an inverter. Unlike a car or truck 12 volt system that is designed to work well at 9 volts. and inverter MUST have at least 10.5 volts ALL of the time. If voltage dips to 10.4 volts even for a millisecond - the inverter shuts down. I've found that a pair of Trojan T-105 deep cycle six-volt batteries - or any other brand GC-2 type battery - can provide around 1000 watts of power before the voltage dips too low. If you take a standard microwave maybe rated 900 watts and turn it on - it will first draw around 1300 watts, draw 110 -120 amps from your batteries. Two batteries can barely handle that. My point being - it all depends on what you plan on using your inverter for. Two batteries can handle many things but when hooked to an inverter -will not handle spikes of over 1300 watts even if you have a 5000 watt inverter.
As to the new construction of our RV? I've been wrong before but I think you are going to find out how weight adds up in unexpected ways.
The inverter has a small display on it. My guess is the guy who said it only drew 11 amps with a 540 watt load was looking at the battery voltage. You're right. I wish I had an accurate current draw graph.
I wish I could weigh it without the shell somewhere to see what it would all end up weighing. To be honest, it's not going to be much. Maybe a couple hundred pounds, max. The axle is rated at 2,000 lbs and is full floating. I will be conscious of weight. There's only so much I can do.
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Well, I'd suggest not straying too far from the original construction materials. Just improve on it. More rot resistant materials and glue & screw instead of staples.
Glue and screw? Do you have any examples?
The pocket joint:
http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W
Now for the floor plan. More or less. Want it open...
But the windows. There were a lot of them. But I like a lot of light... Not sure what to do.
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Have you got enough room on the roof for that many panels?
Not now I don't. But I have enough material to completely re- do the roof. I will be able to re arrange things so they will fit.
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Funny you say that, I am looking at a sine wave inverter @ 1,000 watts that is 12V. I have 500+100 watts of solar to keep it charged. The inverter draws 11.4amps with a 540 watt load, and based on the batteries it will power it for a week before they are dead, without solar input. But that is a 12V system (6+6) so you are right.
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'Beefing up' is a wonderful idea, but just remember you're going to be fighting the same enemy as the original builder: WEIGHT.
Very good point.
But if I add some heft to it, maybe adding a 1/2" thickness to the wood, in the end if I were to shave off that and weigh it, it might weigh 5LBS. 10 lbs... Foam weighs next to nothing... It's the steel that may add some weight.
Fiberglass weighs more than aluminum, and aluminum weighs more than wood in similar applications.
My worry is the solar system my boss just gave me... 6 6 volt batteries that weigh 70 lbs a piece. That's almost 400 lbs... Maybe I will delete two of them for the RV and go with a 24 volt inverter.
The inside of the RV is going to be as spartan as it gets. A toilet and shower, some shelves. Mostly open. I like it that way.
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Hello,
I have an RV that I love. It is a 1982 Toyota Dolphin, 20'.
I have already rebuilt the engine, the transmission, and the rearend, plus the driveline. I also have most of the stuff needed to make it a 4x4.
But the back end is rotted out. It was stored by the ocean for a long time and some of the wood is absolutely rotting away.
I cannot stay inside of it for too long because of all of the mold inside of the walls.
So today I began tearing all of the skin off. The skin is not in good condition, either. I recently stripped a 40' 5th wheel of it's skin, in hopes of having enough to do this RV with.
I am down to the wooden frame and insulation currently.
Can anyone give me some hints, tips, and advice?
I am going to make the back end of it open like a toy hauler for putting a quad in there. As far as the roof goes, it is going to have a steel skeleton with a peak in the middle so water will not pool. I am going to beef it up where I can, because roof leaks are a nightmare.
I am probably going to re- use the windows. I am going to use 2x4's I will cut in half. Foam insulation and expanding foam to seal it. A coat or two of mold resistant primer on everything inside and out before it goes back together.
Also looking to add another three inches of height to the cabover because I am pretty tall and would like to sit up up there.
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probably not what you want to hear, but.... you essentially are looking at a complete rebuild & when you are done, (unless you spend the money and time to do a really good job) you will end up with a camper not worth all that much.
I would consider selling the parts and getting a newer camper that is not in such bad shape. The drive train has some value and if the appliances are any good they would too. With some patience & skill you might get a little something for it - parted out.
when you peel back those inner walls I am afraid & somewhat sure that you will find a shell that is not worth much.
I'm not too concerned with what it's worth. I've already invested more than it's worth and that's not the point for me... In fact I am converting it into a 4x4 soon, I have all the parts except for the driveshaft and front springs/ hangers. I will be "Upside down" on it but it will be mine.
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Backup camera installation on your to-do list? That is on my list. My friend has had one kicking around unopened here for a few years that he never got around to installing on his van. So I asked and have received!
For sure.
Not only this, but I plan on making the entire rear portion open up on gas cylinders to accept a quad or whatever. I'd have to make a steel frame and gusset it inside to do that but it's not a problem for me to do. I also want to make a small steel skeleton on the roof with a slight radius so water does not pool on top like it has been.
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I can see why he says he wants new siding. It looks like the original siding has larger areas of damage that would be next to impossible to rework to get it back to the correct profile.
The other side is much worse. I backed into a hill and the rear corner is very tweaked and torn. There are screw holes everywhere from where I had to put drywall screws to hold everything together.
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What Linda S said...
The mold is in the walls in the insulation and, probably, in the wood. Particularly the wet wood. Before you start, get a good mask from Home Depot or Lowe's, not the paper ones, but the respirator type. You'll be glad you did.
The very first thing to do is to coat the roof with some of that white elastomeric goo meant for RV and trailer roofs. Put it on on a sunny day when no rain is expected for the next 24 hours. Put two coats on two days in a row. The stuff can be rolled or brushed. Just make sure you give a good coat around anything that sticks up through the roof like skylights or vents. All of your windows should come out, too. Scrape the old putty off and re-install the windows using black butyl tape, NOT the grey putty like stuff.
Strip the interior but leave the aluminum siding alone since there's no mold in the aluminum. Some of the wood and probably all of the insulation will need to be replaced. For wood that's wet but saveable, give it time to dry out and, once dry, paint some straight bleach on the old wood and allow everything to dry again. The bleach will kill any mold and rot in the old wood.
Once everything is nice and dry and mold free, wipe all of the interior surfaces of the aluminum with one of the many products on the market that are meant for mold removal (duh!). At this stage, you're ready to start the rebuilding process. Use regular lumber store stuff, there's no need to get fancy with hardwoods or anything else. If possible, paint all the surfaces of every piece of wood in the walls, both old and new. Just use a good water base, exterior paint. This step will slow down any water that sneaks its way into the walls later on after you're done. The paint will also freshen up the smell in the interior.
When you re-insulate, use foam sheets, not fiberglass, again, from Home Depot or Lowe's. Just cut the foam for a press fit into each space, you don't need any glue there. You'll probably need 3/4" thick stuff.
Whew! If you get this far, you're well on your way to a nice, good smelling interior. For the interior paneling, I'd use 1/8" door skins. They come in 3' x 7' sheets or 4' by 8' sheets at most lumber yards. They can be painted or clear coated-your choice. You can cut them with a utility knife easily and they can be glued in with "Liquid Nails" or one of the other brands meant for construction adhesive. A few small screws or short finish nails will hold the paneling in place until the glue sets. Cover the seams with molding from H. Depot or Lowe's.
Getting this far may seem to be a pretty daunting job but the actual construction is fairly simple wood work. Everything I've suggested here can be done fairly cheaply, like about $150 or $200 for the whole job. Rebuilding the cabinets and dinette will add some more money, but the cost will depend on how complicated and fancy you make the interior.
Good Luck,
John
Thank you very much for this! And great idea about the door skins, i am definitely going to give those a try.
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The mold isn't in your siding. it's in the wood underneath. I'm afraid if you remove that siding there won't be anything left to hold it together
Linda S
It is going to be completely rebuild, from the inside out. I already rebuilt everything underneath, now it's time for the living area.
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it,s all depends on how far u want to go with reskining mini. it,s not going to be cheap.i just restored the entire outer shell and roof of mine. if I didn,t work in a rv plant. the supplies would have cost close to 2 grand if not more. that's for roof rubber and wood, glue and chalk and staples. if you can get filon for your outer skin that would be better . go to the bone yard and find the longest class A there should be enough filon to reskin a toy home. just take a sharp putty knife and take your time peeling it off
Thank you, that's a great idea! Not sure if fiberglass is recyclable or has a scrap value. I might have to patch it here and there but that might actually work.
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Hi,
I have a 19' 1982 Toyota Dolphin motorhome.
I've spent thousands rebuilding the motor, transmission, differential, and driveline.
The problem is, it has been stored by the ocean all of it's life, and the rot is bad. I've gutted it and was living in it on my moms horse ranch for a while, but the mold from the numerous leaks when it rains, makes me cough and sneeze when I am in it more than a few minutes.
So it's gotta be re- done.
Problem is, I am extremely poor. It's been suggested to find an RV boneyard and I have a query into one that's two hours away.
I am looking to spend a couple hundred dollars at best for the aluminum. But I may have to end up going with a different floor plan? Does anyone have any suggestions or help?
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Maybe I'm missing something here? A slightly bent axle housing is not going to have much effect on the axles or make one break. If would make the axle-splines wear prematurely where they plug into the differential side-gears. It would put the two wheels in slightly different planes and cause premature tire wear, less-then-perfect handling, etc. The housing just holds the center-section (Hotchkiss drive) and the stubs on both ends that carry the bearings. Now a severe bend - yeah - I can see where something would have to give since the axles have no flexilble joints other then were the splined ends can wobble a bit inside the differential side-gears.
Like I said - maybe I'm not accurately understanding your description. Any "wobble" indicates an eccentric somewhere. Since an axle-housing is a stationary part - it cannot act as an eccentric. If an axle is bent, it can since it rotates.
You say you rotated the housing and watched the wheel wobble. OK. Since the housing is usually bolted fast and stationary - your test is the same as having the housing stationary and rotating the wheel. If it wobbles - the axle is bent. If the housing was bent- it would not wobble. It would just not be parallel to the other wheel.
Tell me what I am missing here.
You are incorrect.
If I were to rotate the tire with the axle housing stationary, the tire would rotate without any wobble whatsoever, as it is reliant on the bearings, and nothing else. The spindle itself is not bent or the bearings would eat themselves alive, or crack completely off from the axle housing. If the spindle itself was bent about halfway, then you would see wobble by spinning the tire itself.
However, if I rotate the housing, and there is a bend in the housing, then a wheel will show it by having a wobble, or runout, because there is no hiding a bend with the bearings, if the spindles are bent, it will show.
The break on the flange is characteristic with fatigue cracking, which would be happening if the spindle was bent (Or axle housing) and explains the higher temperatures when read with an infrared thermometer when I brought it from CA to AZ. It's like bending a coathanger back and forth, back and forth- sooner or later it's going to break.
And the inch and an eighth thick axle shaft that is more solid than a semi full floater axle shaft isn't going to give like the quarter inch thick flange, which is exactly where it broke.
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I've seen axles fail like that on several trucks of different makes. I assume it's from metal fatique and perhaps, bad quality control. I.e., it may of been flawed since it left the factory.
You're lucky it's a full-floater. If it had been the light-duty semi-floater- the wheel would of come off with it.
Plenty around used and sometimes U-Haul has them in new old-stock. With the following used axles -all supposed to be from dually full-floaters but call to verifiy .
$55 in Tennessee 865-573-2416 / 888-646-3698
$65 in Ohio 1-800-225-9025
$75 in Florida 1-941-722-6279
$75 in California 1-800-544-3488
$85 in Colorado 1-800-610-8074
$100 in Maryland 410-799-1320
$100 in California (California Mini-truck) 909-622-1381
$100 in Nebraska 1-800-422-4683 (from a 1991 dually)
$100 in Kentucky 1-800-221-3993 (from a 1992 dually)
$125 in California 1-877-722-3138 (from a 87 Dolphin RV)
Thank you very much for that. After some diagnosing, including pulling the third member out and checking it over, I pulled the axle, and set it on two saw horses.
I rotated the axle housing and watched the wheels- the passenger side (The one that blew out) has over an inch of wobble (Deflection).
So my axle housing is bent. Which is why it finally fatigued and blew out.
It wouldn't be such an issue if it was just an RV. But right now it's my living quarters *and* work truck while I am in Arizona. I am trying to find a replacement axle or axle housing.
In case if anyone is wondering, no, i didn't bend the axle. It was pulled from a random flatbed minitruck in a friend's boneyard, 15 years ago. I've put less than 1,000 miles on it. I've never had more than 1,000 lbs (Less in fact) inside the RV at any time. (RV is gutted inside)
Dolphin Rv Review From 1985
in General Discussion
Posted
LOL! Perfect!