Gatorbob

12 Months of work Photos. Before and After. Notice the date on the license plate. This had been sitting in a field since 1998. Gotta have a vision!

Wouldn't a fuel leak smell???? I've tried flooring the gas pedal when trying to start only to get a little ignition. Sometimes it will try to start, run very rough for a few seconds then die. This is what makes me think it is fuel pressure related. The fuel pump was new when I bought it in December 2012. It was working in very harsh, contaminated tank conditions for a very brief moment. The pump is a standard after market. The check valve assembly does not work. I installed an in-line check valve just after the factory check valve and that completely solved my other hard to start mystery. Right now, it starts on the first crank and purrs like a kitten. This seems like there's a "circuit breaker" in the system that opens, "cools off" then closes 20-30 mins later. I recalled having a stall problem several months ago after I filled the tank. Brought it back to the shop who was working on it and we could not duplicate the problem. While replacing the gauge sending unit, we found the tank vent line was not connected to the fill neck. That explained why gas would spill on my feet when filling the tank. BTW the brand new sending unit just would not work for no apparent reason. I bought a used unit and it worked fine. For the most part, it gives me a good idea of whats in the tank but it's not 100% accurate. We disabled the low gas light as it would come on at 1/4 tank. After removing the brand new sending unit, I tested it and it appeared to be working fine. I paid $150, I'll sell it for the best offer. It was only in the tank for about 2 months.

Lots of Good stuff. I doubt its the fuel filters. Both the pump and in-line filter were just replaced and the tank was spotless in side and out. I located the brown wires. they were tight, but I removed them and cleaned the contact points any way. Got my fuel from a relible souce, 89 octane with a little cleaner in it. The engine runs beautifully otherwise. The stall problem is so random, and I'm always in the worst place when it happens.

I was unable to locate the fuel pump relay. Passenger side or driver side?. Where is the Mass flow sensor, brown wires, fuel cut off relay and EMC? photo would be great. I'm a rookie. Custom fuel tank was installed at Sunrader Factory. Uses OME tank sender and pump. All of that was confirmed over the summer.

Great information! Thanks.

After months of no problems, Now, At any given time my rv stalls. Twice this week when excelerating. (it's as if the fuel pump quit) R22E, Newly refurb 27 gal tank, Newly replaced sending unit. New pump in Dec 2012 and original pump stand. (Known pump check value defective, problem solved with accessory in-line check valve. This solved my last hard to start problem.) Plenty of fuel. New gas cap. tank Vent line is properly connected. No vaccuum sound when removing cap. Can not re start. The first time it happened, I called road side assistance after about 10 mins of trying to start. While waiting for road side assistance, I removed the gas cap, added 3 gals of gas from my spare can, went under the rv and tapped on the fuel line (took about ten mins). Get back in the cab and it started right up. Drove to a near by gas station and topped off with 10 gals. Drove it all week and could not duplicate the problem. Then on Saturday, crusing along it stalls again. Won't start. removed cap, Tank at 3/4 and added abount 1/2 gal from spare gas can, tapped on fuel lines. Would not start. Called road side assiatance. About 30 mins passes and all of a sudden it starts. ??? Any ideas my R22-E friends??

Ya Baby, The original installed unit had been modified like that. ANY WAY................ we also discovered the tank vent line was disconnected! That explained the fuel spills I would create at gas stations. The story takes a twist here. The new/used ebay unit installed with the low fuel light wire now disconnected so it wouldn't come on at 1/2 tank, I tell the shop I'm taking it to the gas station to fill up. I top off the 26.5 gal tank with 14 more gallons up to the point that its in the filler neck. Yea no fuel spill!! Start up it reads 3/4. Ok................ Let's drive around the block to see if it goes to full. Gets up to about 7/8s ok I can live with this. As I start to accelerate from the stop light, the engine starts to hesitate. I hope this is just my imagination. Next light, I get tossed around like a bull rider! WHAT THE F##k!! The hesitation continues but only at certain low speed point on the accelator. Back to the shop. Could I have over filled the tank? This Forums expert advice is needed again.

Ok. Put the new used 3 wire sending unit in. It worked however, not a correct reading. I always knew to reading would be off since you just can't pair a OME gage with a 26.5 gal after market tank. I estimated I would have 6 gallons left when the gage reads empty. Problem is the Fuel Light comes on at just under 1/2 tank. If I bend or extend the arm down to get a more accurate low reading, I then creat a false full reading. For now, I just won't connect the low fuel light and play it safe knowing when on E I actually have about a 1/4 tank. Any suggestions on getting the float arm to give me an accurate reading are welcome.

Currently, The TWO wire BRAND NEW FACTORY sending unit is installed. Yellow /Red and White/Black wires. The tank is grounded. The gage works. I do have a low fuel indicator light. Am I correct in assuming Toyota sold me the wrong sending unit? It was an exact match to the unit I pulled out. BUT, the unit I removed was modified at the level arm and the wiring was tapped as you can see in my earlier post. They may have sold me an early 86 model when I actually have a late 86 truck. I have a used 3 wire sending unit I bought on Ebay being shipped. I just don't have the ability to drop the tank myself. Is there a way to make the TWO wire unit work on a Three wire harness? Maybe the next step is to just get the used 3 wire sending unit, install and test that, and if it all works, sell the TWO wire unit on Ebay.

I need your help again. I had other projects come up but now I'm back to the fuel gage, I'm looking closer at the photos you sent. I noticed your sending unit has 3 wires and my new factory unit just has 2. I don't have a Middle wire #3 from the sending unit. I do have a middle wire on the connection. I bought it from my dealer part # 83320-39466 GAGE ASSY, FUEL SN the first photo is from the new sending unit, the second is from the harness, the third is the original connector. 4th is the renewed Tank and 5th is the new sending unit. The Tank is grounded and when I tie the two wire together, the gage reads full. My Truck is 1986 my Sunrader is 1987. HELP!

Nice find Linda. I was quoted $1,500 plus shipping to have a new tank made by Transfer Flow, the original manufacturer. It's not a Toyota Tank. Gardner-Pacific clearly modified the under body to make this fit. With the help of a transmission stand, it's easy off and easy on. Sorry to go off subject, My big issuse now is the guage reading. On the first full tank of gas, after a 5 min delay at 1/2, the new sending unit worked and the guage read full. It seemed to read properly as the tank emptied. On the second tank, it took about 20 mins for the guage to read full. About 1/2 through that tank, the guage dropped to E. I refilled the tank and it stayed at E. Took it back to the shop, removed the brand new sending unit, manually operated it and it worked. There are no obstructions like the baffle. It's reading 1/2 now but I think the tank is full. Crazy. The old sending unit float arm was modified by someone. The new stock toyota unit seemed to be nearly identical to the old modified one, and it worked on the 1st tank. Any suggestions? Here's the New and the Old.

I have an 86 Sunrader with a 27 gal tank. Just 4 bolts. This past spring I took it to Tank-Renew. (a franchise chain) I old rusted tank look brand new. This tank was a Sunrader upgrade. The used the toyota factory pump and sending unit. Still working on the guage reading.

Tank before and after photos with Gas Tank Re-Nu $680 with baffle , clean pump stand and replace pump filter. Having a new tank built +$1,600.00

Yes they sand blast it. Not sure how they get inside. I saw other ones completed. They are coated inside and out.

The Tank is hung about dead center of the entire length of the vehicle. Forward to aft with welded brackets. I get the tank back tomorrow. I'll post some before and after photos. I'll try to get some photos of the undercarriage. The tank does not stick out on the bottom. Gas Tank Re-Nu re-certifies the tank and a lifetime warranty.

Its a big tank. It was an upgrade option with this model RV. 33.5 x 13.5 x 15 deep. Its tucked well up into the frame. Fuel tanks must be certified to be used in motor vehicels.

Hopefully this information can help those faced with and old rusted fuel tank and non working fuel gauge. 1987 Sunrader (1986 Toyota pick up) with a 26.5 gallon Transfer Flow fuel tank. After conducting test suggested by my friends on this site, I decided to drop the tank and remove the sending unit. I found it to be completely rusted with no arm movement. The tank feels solid although covered in rust inside and out. The sending unit appeared to be modified to accommodate the tank depth. I also removed the fuel pump and stand to get a better look at the interior tank condition. Couldn't see much, the baffle was in place and everything was covered in rust and sludge. This sunrader had been sitting still since 1998 when I rescued it from Craigs list. After removing about 10 lbs of nuts and bolts from the bottom, (someone had been drooping in the fill line) A simple cleaning was out of the question. I called Transfer Flow (still in business) To inquire about replacement. $1,600 because they would have to build a new one. Transfer Flow suggested a less expensive alternative "Gas Tank RENU" . About an hour a half away, I brought the tank and pump stand there. $660. to completely restore the tank and pump stand. Not bad considering the alternative. www.gastankrenu.com I was given a tour of the process and was very impressed. I pick up my Re-Nu tank Tuesday. In the meanwhile I ordered new gaskets and a new Toyota sending unit. I got the new sending unit and was surprised to see it was the same depth as the modified one. Although the tank is 15 inches deep, the sending unit is 11.5 . I'm not going to modify it. I'll just live with knowing I have about 6 gallons left when on empty.

Just posted photos on #32 Now that I know how to compress photos, I'll post a few more.

Okay, for starters I learned that the Deep Cycle Battery goes in the Larger part of the battery box and the engine battery in the smaller part. Took battery back To Wal-Mart and exchanged for same size deep cycle and purchased new smaller size engine battery. (All of a sudden the wires all reach there correct post.) The next challange is to figure out what wires go to what battery! The only thing I know for sure is what positive and negative cables start the engine. My wiring diagram does not show the generator.

What you are seeing is the new Walmart truck battery and the space for the coach battery. I'm going to leave the batteries were they are. All of the wiring is in place and this was how Sunrader intended it to be. I have a built-in generator too. I think I need to take it to someone who understands this better than I do.

Here is my wiring diagram. My Power Converter/ DC distribution panel has a battery charger built-in. Is a wheel chair battery still what I need? Why do I have to have the truck running to turn on the interior camper lights, bath fan and door handle light? Sunrader wiring diagram20130204_06000380.pdf

I have both batteries under the hood. 1987 Sunrader on a 1986 Toyota. They sit in a fiberglass box together, on the passenger side behind the headlight. The box also houses the window washer fluid tank. I was out shopping for Batteries today. Finding a match for the 1986 Toyota pick up was no problem at Walmart. 11" long, 7" wide and 8" high. MAXX 24N. Now I need a coach battery. The space for it is 9" long, 7" wide and 8" high. The dimensions and post location seem pretty easy to find, I just don't know if there is a "special" battery for the coach? Or will any old battery fitting the space will do?

The death rattle is gone. Was bent valves and blown head gasket. Put in a lot of new stuff, water pump, thermostat, belts, fuel filter, p/s idle pully, and everything that needed to bring it back to life. Added a new performance air intake too. 4 shocks, all new front brake system, 7 tires, replaced every fluid,. I've only got 4 days left on my registration to get the inspection finished. Exhaust goes in Tuesday, might even get the rear bumper replaced with stainless steel tomorrow..

Thanks. I get my rig back from the shop tomorrow. Good information.

Newbie here, I hope to learn from your fuel tank experience. 1987 21 ft Toyota Sun Rader with non working fuel gage. Repaired coroded wires but still not working. What would you suggest be the next step?