zero
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Posts posted by zero
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What is with the crooked door? Is this "artistic license?" I don't get it. The seller wants $19,500 on Ebay. I'd be hard-pressed to offer $1,950 - but I'm cheap and don't fully appreciate the rehab job done on it.
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Beth had to relist it with Ebay due to some Ebay-related technical issues. Up pretty high today, one hour before the end. Nice rig but twice as much as I'd ever pay. Good for her!
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Hello, new to this forum as I just picked up a sweet 90 Dolphin. I am wondering if anyone has replaced the 20lb tank with a 30lb tank. Thanks.
Does anyone sell a 30 lb. vertical "portable" propane tank? I've only seen the 30 lb. horizontal tanks and those are 6" higher then the 20 lb. tanks. Do you get yours filled or buy on exchange somewhere? You can gain a LOT just by having someone fill your tank properly with 20 lbs. of propane instead of the usual 15 lb. rip-off fill. A so-called "20 lb." tank actually takes around 24 lbs. and is properly and safely 80% filled when it has 20 lbs. of propane in it. NOT 15 lbs. like the popular BS story often goes. Proper safe fill goes by the W.C. number stamped on your tank. It looks like yours is stamped with a W.C. of 47.7. If so, it is safely filled with 20.03 lbs. of propane. If it's just a W.C. of 47 - safe fill is 19.75 lbs. of propane. Calculation of proper fill is always supposed to be 42% of the W.C. number stamped on your tank.
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i have a few leaks,1 in the upper storage compartment,1 on both driver and passenger sides leaking on to the floor mats, and 1 passenger side rear window, which gets my couch/bed wet.
I've been using Osi Quad for an RV sealant that have to fill gaps (especially vertical) - like for window mounts. Home Depot sells it. I was just visiting a big RV place in Michigan and was surprised to see that's what they are using too. Quad for mountings with substantial gaps and vertical runs and Dicor for things like sealing roofs with lapped aluminum and horizontal surfaces.
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The states that currently subsidize and encourage solar installations are not going to ban them in the future. the practice.
Some local governments have banned them simply for cosmetic reasons. Subsidies for sure, have been going down. I don't see how anyone can tax someone with a grid-tie solar set-up. In most places, there is NOTHING to tax. Even with a subsidy that pays 75% of the cost of a grid-tie net-metered solar-electric system - it still represents a financial loss when done on a tax spread-sheet. I.e, no gain - nothing to tax. Even the excess power made is usually taken away from the homeowner with no payment (like mine is taken every year). Some towns raise property taxes for a solar install with is a disincentive. Also, according to Federal law - during a national or state emergency - "government" officials can take over a private solar system for the "greater good." That is one good reason to try to keep your system out of the public view if possible.
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I agree with maineah. to run 130hp engine just to give power to the inverter for the a/c is counter productive.
The so-called "130" horsepower has little to do with anything. 22R makes around 100 horse at MAX output @ 4800 RPM. It is also capable of making smaller amounts of power at lower speeds at not be super inefficient. A mini-truck or RV sometimes only uses 20-30 horse to run down the road. No huge mis-match if using that "low power for size" to run an alternator instead. A 200 amp alternator needs around 6-7 horsepower to make 2800 watts. Will a 2400 cc Toyota engine make 2800 watts running an alternator as efficiently as using a direct-matched engine run at it's peak torque curve? No. But, so what? It's not a huge difference and the advantage is - only having one engine to deal with. Road Trek's Eco solar and diesel powered RV makes all it's electricty that way. Is uses the main engine to run a big alternator instead of using a self-contained engine/generator set and it does so with pretty good efficiency. The problem is - coming up with a belt drive in a four-cylinder Toyota that can turn an alternatort making more then 80 amps. One Vee-belt drive will not do the job. Either two Vee-belts or a 7 rib serpentine belt is likely needed as a minimum.
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I have a 75 Toyota chinook pop up, it has a few leaks, wanted to know what to use to seal it best
You need to ascertain exactly WHAT is leaking. Chinook pop-top has many small bolts that goe through the roof, along with window-seals that can leak.
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TSB 021041787 Apr 87 in Alldata
So what does the bulletin say or warn us about? I don't want to buy a subscription just to read a few lines of text.
I know that Toyota had to make changes in the A43D tech-manual but I don't know what those changes are. Toyota has service bulletin #195064 for the changes - dated June 25, 2005.
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"400amp hour 12v battery bank
9 solar panels each 100 watts 12v
inverter 12vdc-120vac 3000watt continuous modified sine wave and its like 5k-6k surge watts - for the roof air conditioner unit that's about 13,500btu
600watt microwave rated at max850watt, at I saw to lighten the electrical load.
is it possible to combine all this technology safely? what are the main concerns besides proper cables and sizes? do I need isolators in between everything?
I know 12vdc deteriorates over long cable distance unlike 120vac"
I've got a pair of 100 watt panels on the roof of my 20 foot Minicruiser and there's really isn't much room for any more.
A 400 amp-hour battery bank hooked to a 3000 watt inverter won't run most AC units unless yours has a low-draw, slow-start motor. The problem is the voltage drop AT the batteries. A 20 amp load @ 120 volts on those batteries will drop the voltage to 10.5 volts and THAT will shut off the inverter. Most inverters are programmed to shut down when input voltage drops below 11 volts - even if for just a millisecond. Now a 400 amp-hour battery bank along with the engine running and alternator sending 50-60 amps might work (I say "might").
In reference to standard microwaves - I doubt there is one on this planet that draws a max of 850 watts. A typical "700 watt" mini-microwave draws around 11 amps @ 120 volts - i.e. 1300 watts during it's "on" surges. The only microwave oven on the market that has a true variable amp draw is an "inverter microwave - like made by Panasonic. That will run on 7 amps (840 watts) if run at half-heat.
And yes, 12 volts has high loss if wires are not sized right. So does ANY voltage. But yeah, the higher the voltage the smaller the wire you can get by with.
In ref to isolation? Anything that has a regulated DC output can be combined
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in my 90 the oem cooler is around 4inchx4inch in size.
I had a 2002 Honda accord, it was extra cold one morning in Jan of 2003, around -18F and the tranny would not shift out of 1st year.
So, using dex VI is better being syn atf, it will flow better in cold temps?
JDE, did ya install a tranny temp sensor?
The radiator tubes is a "New" feature? did we have it in our 85s or in 90s?
I know I have it in my Honda Truck, I just replaced one due to corrosion of the tranny line washer to the radiator.
Yes, I’ve got a transmission temperature gauge in my 1988 Minicruiser (2.4 with A43D). Temp runs 190F most of the time but climbs to 230F on any steep hill.
In reference to the transmission cooler/heater tubes in the radiators – they’ve been around as long as I have. My first car with an automatic trans was a 1949 Pontiac with a straight 8 and it had the tube in the radiator. I don’t recall ever seeing a car or truck with auto trans that did not have one (older cars that is). I own nothing newer then 2002 and don’t know what the newest stuff has.
Transmissions that have slippage issues in cold weather have oil flow problems in the filter area. That can be caused by the filter or the oil. For sure, Dexron VI has the best cold-oil-flow.
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I've had GPS and print maps show through roads that actually ended at beaver ponds, 20 year old wash-outs, etc. Especially in the NY Adirondacks and the Michigan UP.
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I'd stick the biggest cooler in there that will fit. I'm curious what you come up with. The OEM cooler is pretty small, at least in my 1988.. Most bigger coolers come with thermostatically controlled bypass thermostats to make sure the oil isn't too cool in cold weather. Transmisssion oil can indeed be too cool in any rig when driven in cold weather. That's why most autos have tubes in the radiators that work as coolers and heaters. Probably not an issue for most RV users but it is for some. When I get around to it - I'm going to put a B&M "plate and fin" cooler in my 1988. Part # 70264. Has a built in thermostat and measures 2.5" X 14" X 11.5". I'm anxious to install this summer and see if it makes any substantial difference when doing long hill-climbs. Here's some old tests done in the 70s with various coolers. Not much has changed since then except that newer transmissions with lock-up torque-converters make a lot less heat (when locked-up).
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Hi Guys,
So I went to look ans test drive it.It drove good . I got it to 65 -70 on the freeway but it liked running at 60. Chassis is straight . Brakes are good. Tires are so so. Axle has been upgraded , 5 lugs in front and 6 in the rear. No signs of water leak or molds . Maybe 95 to 98 percent original. He hooked it up to a power outlet and the fridge and AC ran. There was no propane or water so I could not tell if any of that worked. I assume there was no water leaks under or visible because there was no water in it. It has not passed smog and he is trying to get it to pass. He wants 4,800. What is the best way to test everything. Load it up with water & propane and then turn everything on ? Attached are some pics. Your 2'cs appreciated . Best
That would be a $1200-$1800 RV where I live in MIchigan. $4800 is absurd. You should of bought my 1984 Datsun I sold a few days ago. Absolutely NO rust anywhere. FF rear, etc. I paid $1800 and sold it for $3200 and it was in MUCH better shape then the Dolphin in your photos. There's an 83 Dolphin for sale by me right now for $800 that has less rust. Built on a Chevy S10 chassis and has a 2.8 V6, along with four-speed automatic trans with OD and lockup converter (700R4).
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Looks like the Toyota part # for that cap used in front, back, and for the spare for the dually setup was # 601-35471-03. No longer available.
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Are we not driving VZN95's?
VZN95s are indeed dual-wheel setups - but the Toyota parts list says that cap is a "type 3" and it's a "type 2" that is needed. I have no idea how accurate the parts list info is though.
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ok so my new idea is get a 1984-85 in usa for cheap Toyota diesel manual 4x4.
my only concern now is finding a 2wd transfer case for the diesel truck or maybe replace the whole transmission with a 2wd manual 5speed tranny with diesel bell housing. eventually swap out the 2l or 2lt engine with a 3l 2.8 litre diesel and eventually get the 2lte turbo kit for it and add a intercooler. any input?
Why are you seeking a 4WD diesel truck if you don't want 4WD? Also - I don't think there is any such thing as a "2WD" transfercase. You just want a transmission made for a 2WD truck. The W56 that is cited in all that info you posted is the bolt-in choice for gas or diesel trucks from the late 70s to early 80s. Note it has a very high 1st gear and would likely be miserable in a heavy motor home unless you change the rear-axle ratio. The four speed manual transmissions that came OEM in 70s and early 80s motorhomes have a lower 1st gear and are more "user freindly" in a heavy motorhome with a 4.10 or 4.11 to 1 rear-axle ratio.
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Originally I have one stage regulator. Does it make sense to add screws and install two stages?
Two-stage regulators are a requirement on new RVs. Been that way for a pretty long time. Makes sense to use the same on any RV. Not exactly a big expense. Just make sure you get one vented the right way. They come in "vertical" or "horizontal" venting.
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A mechanic is a mechanic. If you can work on a gasoline engine, you can work on a diesel engine. It may take more time and research than working on something you've worked on a lot in the past, but they aren't magic. The first time I worked on a diesel engine was when the diesel engine on a tractor at a camp I worked at needed worked on--no big deal.
A successful "mechanic" has access to the tools needed to get the job done. THAT is often not so easy when working on a diesel. Many of the tools are esoteric and often specific to one brand or model of injection system. That's why there are diesel pump & injector shops that specialize and invest heavily in expensive tools, test, and calibration equipment. For a person who just works on diesel occasionally - investing a small fortune in specialty tools that rarely get used is usually not a desired option. Besides the tools - detailed repair information is often hard to get and many injection equipment companies won't release the repair info to the average person and often only to certified shops. I have a lot of money invested in things like special injection wrenches and gauges, injector testers, specialized nozzle tools, diesel timing light, electronic combustion sensors, glow-plug extractors, etc. and many of those tools are now pretty much obsolete and useless. That because things change over time - a lot. My point being - I don't see working on gas engines much like working on diesels. If I lack a certain tool when working on a gas engine - I know I can borrow one somewhere local - or - just go out and buy the tool. If I lack a tool when working a diesel - chances are . . if I don't have it - I doubt anyone else around has one to borrow. Granted - if you have something like an indirect-injected diesel in a Toyota and you have pump issues, or injector issues - you can yank them out and have some shop repair them for you at a very high price. That sort of problem rarely happens with a gas engine since any mechanic worth a damn can take apart a carburetor, distributor, starter, alternator, generator, etc. and figure out how to fix it. Even something as simple as checking the timing on a gas engine becomes very complex on a diesel. For example - a Toyota diesel from the 80s has an automatic timing advance that works similar to the ignition advance in a gas engine distributor. Difference is - with the gas engine you can check that advance with a simple timing light. With a diesel?? WAY more complicated and I know most mechanics haven't a clue how to proceed. It can be done with a diesel timing light IF you have access to one and know how to use it. With IDI diesel - a luminosity probe and computer can also be used but who the heck is going to buy something like that just to work on one engine? GM and Ford dealerships used to have have them - but they were required to.
Oh well, I'm rambling on to much. Agreed that a 2-stroke or 4-stroke-cycle internal combustion engine - gas or diesel - works on similar principals. BIG difference though in the types of tools needed to work on one or the other. Also a big difference on easily obtained repair info. Most tech manuals - when you get to the diesel section - will pretend the injection pump is a "magic box" not to be touched by uncertified hands.
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Hello everybody,
i would like to know from anyone that has done this swap before to tell me what to look for and if theres anything else i can do to make the ebake cable get tension i did mount all the brackets for the cable not sure what else im missing ...ill upload photos as soon as i can..thank you all.
Yes, I done the swap three times into a 1978, 1982, and 1984. With all three - I retained the original parking-brake cables that had been previsously attached to the OEM semi-floater rear and all fit fine. Why don't you just do that?
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Ironically, I just found this motorhome magazine in my 1984 Datsun RV when I was cleaning it out to sell it. Some guy came by with a pocket full of cash yesterday and bought it.
November - 2005 road-test for the Winnebago View 24 footer with the VW 2.7 liter diesel. Interesting to see a real road test.
It got 15.9 MPG as a highway average at speeds 55-70 MPH
2.7 liter turbo diesel is rated 154 HP @ 3400 RPM and 243 lb. ft. torque @ 1600-2400 RPM.
0-60 MPH - 22.2 seconds. 40-60 MPH - 12.9 seconds.
Test weight - no supplies or passengers - 9,340 lbs.
Price: $84,536
Looking at these figures - I think we Toyota owners are doing ;pretty good and I'm sure spend less dollars per mile of travel.
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After looking for a Rialta with the VW drivetrain and seeing all the issues they have, I would be afraid to buy it! Jim SW FL
It's just a Toyota Hi-Lux rebadged as a VW. All Toyota engineering - good or bad. VW later did the same thing with Chrysler/Dodge mini-vans when they stuck the "Routan" name on them.
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If anyone is interested in seeing what a pretty nice Sunrader will bring right now on Ebay - here's one to watch. It belongs to the girl I almost married back in the early 70s. I can't even remember how or why we broke up. Maybe I shouldn't be calling her a "girl" anymore. She's probably aged a bit, just as I have. I was just talking to her on phone about the Sunrader. Ends up her parents had a nice Toyota Chinook years back and I did not even know it. At the time, my mind might have been on other things.
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Assuming that's an ad from a magazine, what year? With the V6, obviously between '89 & '93.
From Trailer Life magazine, June, 1991. Here's the complete ad.
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Monaco Fiesta Toyota.
Mad Magazine Rv? Alfred E. Newman - "what, Me Worry??"
in General Discussion
Posted
Toyota Worrier?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/91-TOYOTA-WINNEBEGO-WORRIER-V6-MOTORHOME-RV-22-GEN-AWNING-ONLY-68K-MILES-/121662974964?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1c53adabf4&item=121662974964