zero
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Posts posted by zero
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Is this starter difficult to change?
I will be picking up my mini this week at my daughter's farm 550 miles away. I may consider changing the starter before driving it back home in pa.
Not a tough job. You can file down the solenoid contacts and get more life out of it if they are not burnt/worn too bad. I've done it several times in my Toyotas and Subarus. If you want a rebuilt starter - Rock Auto has them right now for $31 and no exchange needed. Good price to pick up one up.
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I put 4.56 to 1 gears in my 1988 Minicruiser last Fall. Made a HUGE difference. Now I can use 4th OD with the A43D and it cruises nicely most places. One word of caution. One of the popular companies that sells new ring & pinion gear-sets is Yukon Gear. They sell in two grade levels. Do NOT buy the cheaper grade with the lower price for your RV. Those gears have slight imperfections and usually used for off-road trucks and NOT highway cruisers. If you use them (the cheaper ones) - you are likely to get a highspeed "howl" that won't go away no matter how careful you are with the gear setup.
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The original rear differential was very loud and needed to be replaced. Our mechanic in NY found one and put it in. However, it is pretty rusty and he had to epoxy part of it. We have since moved to MA.
We drove it about 70 miles with our "new" rear diff and then noticed gear oil all over it and above it. We are assuming the problem may be with the bearings and/or seal. There is some up and down play in the drive shaft.
Now we are stuck with a bad rear diff, 70 miles from the mechanic who put it in. We took it to a mechanic here in MA who cleaned the rear diff and checked the gear oil, which was only down about 3/4". There are some small bits of metal in the oil and some noise when driving.
I'm wondering why in heck the "mechanic" did not just fix the original differential. It's not something that "goes bad" as an entire unit. When it makes noise, a competent mechanic will take it apart and fix the damn thing - that is - replace whatever bearings or gears have gone bad. Since the Toyota uses a "Hotchkiss" type unit - it is fairly easy to just remove the entire differential and just replace it as a whole. Many backyard mechanics will do that if a good entire unit is available. I don't like doing that UNLESS that unit came out of a truck got to run first. Now - if your mechanic discovered all the bearings bad, and the ring & pinion burnt up - then getting an entire used replacement might be cheaper in the long run.
About what you have now. The bearings on the input/pinion shaft (where the driveshaft hooks to) must be adjusted properly. When so - there will be absolutely NO play. I've seen many good ones get ruined when someone attempts to just install a new pinion seal. It is very easy to over-tighten the pinion nut after installing a new seal, putting too much preload (crush) on the bearings, and burning them up pretty quickly. DID your mechanic put a new pinion seal in that used differential? If so, I bet he got it too tight and the pinion bearings are burnt up. If so, NO, I would NOT drive it.
I don't know where in NY you are. I just junked a perfectly good Toyota truck differential with a 4.11 to 1 ratio. Your's is likely a 4.10 to 1, or a 4.11 to 1. I let a junk guy in Stamford NY have it (Delaware County in central NY). If you are near that area, he might still have it there. OR - just call a junkyard. A standard Tacoma differential, or older pickup or Hilux will bolt right in and it makes no difference if a dually full-floater with 6 lug wheels or a single-wheel semi-floater with 5 lug wheels. The Hotchkss center-sections are interchangeable.
What should be done now - is to pull what you have apart and see what is actually wrong with it. Burnt bearings sound different then scorched gears - but it's hard to describe with simple words.
When you said the replacement differential has rust holes - you've got me wondering. Was just the center Hotchkiss section replaced - or was the entire rear axle assembly replaced? Hopefully not the latter? I ask because the center-section is pretty thick cast-iron and steel and it's hard to imagine one gettting rust holes. The banjo-axle assembly - yes - since it is made of thin steel.
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I thought just about all large Toyota RVs made that noise - especially when making turns on rough roads. I've read posts from many owners who report noises and I know my 1988 does it. Like I said though . . ,,mostly when making turns and having worn-out steering stops. If yours does it when moving up and down and with the front wheels straight ahead - it could be nearly any part that moves in the front suspension. Control-arm bushings would certainly be a prime suspect.
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:Probably a good buy for someone who wants to do some work and wants a big Sunrader. If I was in NY - I'd own it already. But - I just got back from NY three days ago and am in northern MI for good (I hope).
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Here is the OEM setup in my 1988 Toyota Minicruiser. I added a 2nd AUX battery in the tool compartment that has an outside door.
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Technology leads to dependence. .
Yes, for sure. I wonder how many people have frozen to death because they hopped in their car when it's 20 below 0 F and assumed they are safe with car-heat and a cell-phone? Two years ago a couple froze to death near me in New York because their car ran out of gas, and they had no cell-phone coverage. How did the press and government officials respond? I would of written it off to Darwin's natural selection. NOPE. The phone companies got blamed for not having good enough cell coverage.
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I read this and got thinking how much I like the simplicity of older vehicles like my Toyotas. Also how much I do NOT like whiney tax-payer supported General Motors. GEEZ. What a silly way to die - but the waffles sound good. I feel particularly bad for the dog - he/she had no option to read the owner's manual.
PORT ARTHUR, TX – Investigators say 72-year-old James Rogers died inside his Corvette, along with his dog, after he was unable to open the doors or windows of his car.
After Rogers finished eating at a Waffle House last week where he is a regular, he got into his 2007 Corvette with his dog, Leia.
What Rogers didn’t know was that a loose battery cable was the reason why his car would not start, and also why he was unable to unlock the doors or roll down the windows. Even worse, Rogers had accidentally left his phone in the restaurant.
Eventually another customer noticed Rogers unresponsive in the car and they, along with store employees, tried to get the doors open. Firefighters arrived and busted out a window, but by then it was too late. Both Rogers and his dog would die from heat exhaustion.
What makes this story so tragic is that had Rogers read the manual to his car, he would have known that the Corvette is equipped with a manual release on the driver’s side of the car that bypasses the battery and will unlock the doors.
According to Rogers’ daughter, there was evidence that her father struggled to get out of the car, and may have been looking through the owner’s manual when he died.
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Can't be too many places to look. My 1988 Minicruiser has the aux battery under the couch/bed inside the camper. Other makes have an outside access door - and a few - have it under the hood.
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When my motorhome is parked in my backyard with the tires on the ground which is dirt, I can plug in my shorepower to my outside outlet with no issues.
When I have my motorhome parked on a slab on concrete plugged into the same outlet it will trip the GFCI in my house.
Why?
*Also when it is parked on the concrete I usually have the front tires on ramps, not sure if that makes a difference or not.
Having two GFCIs in series should not be an issue. All they do is compare current on the "hot leg" to current on the "neutral" and trip is they are not equal to each other. I have NO idea how polarity can be an issue considering you are using the same outdoor outlet each time. I also see no way for the difference between parking on dirt to parking on concrete to be an issue. You DO have dry rubber tires on the RV, correct? When on concrete, what exactly is tripping and where? A current breaker, a arc-fault detecting breaker at the house, or a GFCI somewhere? If it's a GFCI tripping, does it happen when you are stepping into the camper or does it happen when the camper is just sitting there, on rubber, with no physical connection to ground? A GFCI when working correctly, only trips in two situations . . ONE is when "hot leg" current if leaking to ground somewhere before it travels back via the neutral. TWO is when there is enough capacitance in the circuit to sort of mimic a leak to ground long enough to trip the GFCI. If your's trips only when on concrete - and rubber tires are totally isolating the camper from EARTH/GROUND, I'd suspect it has more to do with having the camper at an angle on the ramps that is affecting something. Just a guess. I can't tell from here.
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Fram filter makes OEM filters for many different cars. Frankly I don't care, a filter co won't be in business very long if they make defective filters some times I use Fram some times I use NAPA brand I have never had any problems with any filter.
Same here. I just check the specs first on the specific filter I'm buying. Wix makes NAPA filers and we used WIX for many years on heavy-equipment. Wix and Fram make below-OEM grade, OEM grade, and above OEM grade filters. If someone buys the cheapest Fram filter on the shelf at Walmart and it's NOT listed as an OEM replacement - seems there is little to justify a complaint later.
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I don't see how anyone can legitimally complain or brag about Fram filters in the general sense. They makes many grades and sometimes one engine has a 4-5 choices.
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i have been running the new lexus motor in my dolphin to test different things. The oil pressure was around 65 psi, then a while later it was 50, then 40 then 20.. no change in the sound of the motor and the oil light never came on, even when it got to 5! I was sure the motor had oil pressure, it sounded fine so I just assumed it was a gauge issue. I had pinched the tube or something.
Finally got to looking into it, did some tests, and figured I had a bad gauge, so i ordered a new one, an electric one this time. got it all installed and fired it up. 20psi. wth!
baffled, i started to do internet searches and found that some people claimed the same issue and it was solved with a new oil filter. I though BS, but what the heck. Installed the new, different brand, filter. and i was floored to see the pressure at 65.
who would have thunk it. I will cut that fram filter apart just to see what i can see. Odd no?
I know nothing about the Lexus motor. That being said, if a conventional engine gets a restricted oil-filter - the bypass opens and seems the oil pressure should not drop like that. Many engines have "full flow" bypass systems. Seems your Lexus does not. Kind of wonder why?? Sounds like a bad design to me.
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Don't quite understand the Buick-Olds-Pontiac (only?) reference. The LR2 is Chevy-GMC (and Jeep, if you like).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_60%C2%B0_V6_engine
Appears I am wrong. I had to find a trans for my 1986 S15 Jimmy with a 2.8 and I would of sworn it was not standard Chevy pattern like the 4.3 uses (and it wasn't).. But . . according to the Net, the 2.8 uses the "Chevy Metric" pattern. So, I just learned something new. Or . . maybe two things. One - the pattern,and two - my brain is playing tricks on me. The 4.3 uses the old standard Chevy pattern that I assume began in 1955.
GM metric pattern[edit]Also called the GM small corporate pattern and the S10 patternThis pattern has a distinctive odd-sided hexagonal shape. Rear wheel drive applications have the starter mounted on the right side of the block (when viewed from the flywheel) and on the opposite side of the block than front wheel drive. The 2.2l S10/Sonoma had the starter located in the same position as front wheel drive cars. A rear wheel drive bellhousing is displayed at right.
- GM 60-Degree 2.8/3.1/3.4/3.5/3.8/3.9 L V6 (also used by AMC)
- Buick 3300/3800 V6
- Cadillac HT4100/4.5/4.9 L V8
- Isuzu 3.5L DOHC V6
- AMC/Chrysler 2.5L I4 found in Jeep Cherokee, Comanche, Wagoneer, CJ and Wrangler and Dodge Dakota
- GM Iron Duke/Tech-4 2.5L I4
- GM "122" 1.8/2.0/2.2 L I4
- GM 5.3L LS4 V8
- GM 3.5L LX5 "Short Star" V6
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2.8 is a B.O.P. engine. That is - has a bolt pattern for the Buick-Oldsmobile-Pontiac design instead of Chevrolet or GMC. My only concern with a S10 chassis built before 1988 with a 2.8 is finding a good transmission core to beef up and rebuild. 1985 and older cores are almost not worth rebuilding.They were plagued with problems (big ones). Some important mods were made in 1986 and cannot be retrofitted to the older transmissions. Plenty of good newer cores for Chevys and GMCs that had four-bangers or 4.3 V6s. Not quite as common for B.O.P engines but I assume they can be found.
Funny thing about GM frames in general. Several micro-mini RV companies tried using Ford Rangers or Chevy S10s in place of Nissan or Toyota mini-trucks. The general complaint was that the Fords and Chevys were too expensive and too heavy (in the wrong places) to work as well as the Asian trucks.
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Every Bandit I've seen on an S10 chassis had the Buick/Olds 2.8 liter V6. The one in that ad also has a V6.
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The change of shim packs can be done with the cams in, or out. Some find it easier and quicker to do it with the camshafts out, depending on what tools are on hand. When it comes to stories of engines lasting hundreds of thousands of miles with no lash-adjustments needed? Might be a few anomalies out there, but so what?? I got 520,000 miles on my 1987 Chevy Suburban with a 6.2 diesel - while most were blown before 200K and many before 100K miles. Toyota certainly lacked some confidence in the valve train, timing belts, and head-gaskets. As compared to the Toyota 20R and 22R, the V6 is indeed a dog. Doesn't make it a bad engine in the generic sense, but does make it a poor one as compared to the others Toyota made in the era. Especially now when shop labor can be so damn expensive if someone does not do their own work. 60K timing-belt change interval on an engine other then a Ford Pinto or Chevy Chevette is kind of ridiculous. The head-gasket fiasco also not a great tribute to Toyota engineering success.
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Good price for a Chinook-like vehicle with more modern tweaks. 2.8 Buick V6, four-speed auto trans with OD and lock-up converter, power-steering, etc. Good buy for $2000. If it was 200 miles near to me - I'd buy it in a flash.
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One side-note. I don't use phrases like "pain in the behind" like my post shows. Seems the automated word-police changed it. I guess now "a*s" is some sort of banned and vile word??
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I have been web surfing for checking valves on 3VZ-E. From the amount of info I am finding on the web it appears that few people are doing it? Jim
I assume few people do it because it is a HUGE pain-in-the-behind. A serious design flaw on the part of Toyota AND Nissan (they had a similar setup for awhile). I can't comprehend why Toyota did not just use self-adjusting hydraulic lifters if they wanted a so-called "low maintenance" valve-train. Who the Hell wants to remove their camshafts, cam gears, plenum, etc.and buy/borrow a bunch of tools to get the lifter/shim/buckets set up properly?? It seems that some want-to-be engineering genius at Toyota thought he/she could design a mechanical valve-lift system that would self-adjust as it wore and keep lash a constant. NOPE. DID NOT WORK. Maybe valve-seat recession was more then anticipated. It was, and still is - a piss-poor design. That being said, I assume that an engine that's done over with ultra-hard valves and valve-seats, along with high ZDDP motor oil - will last a long time between valve clearance "adjustments."
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Hi Guys,
So I am shopping for a Dolphin (or any Toyota RV) . I loved them ever since the first time I've seen one. I did not know there was a difference between a sun raider or the different coach makers. I always thought they were all Dolphins. If you has to start all over again. Which model would you pick. I first thought the 22R Manual carburated was the best because of simplicity , but now i'm leaning towards the V6. I'm even starting to like the sun raiders (but they seem pricey) .Not sure if looking at too many is making me nuts... Your 2c's appreciated...
They ALL have wood in them, and ALL can get rot. Some more then others and Sunraders have wood in them too. I've stripped a few that got junked. Some of course have less wood then others and Sunrader does not use a wood inner frame-structure like Dolphins use. If you want pure simplicity and fiberglass - get a late 70s Chinook pop-top. Best gas mileage, steel frame and fiberglass for the camper (with some wood), wood-honeycomb floor with aluminum skin, 4.10 rear, 4 speed manual trans (except for a few autos), and the best engine Toyota ever made - 20R. Some makes like Minicruiser use an aluminum RV frame with a few wood cross-supports. I know some people say fuel mileage is not relevant. Well to me it IS. Otherwise -why bother with a Toyota or Nissan? My Dodge truck with a slide-on pop-top camper gets 17 MPG @ 70 MPH. None of these Toyotas can match that - except maybe a few pop-top Chinooks. On a relative scale, the three liter Toyota V6 is a dog. More trouble-prone then the 20R or 22R or 22REC, worse fuel mileage, and harder to work on. Not a "bad" engine, just not as good as the others. As far as ultimate fuel mileage goes -with a fixed roof 20-21 footer - seems the carbed models with standard trans do the best.
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I am putting an 1uzfe in my 92 toyota truck. I am also using the lexus dash.My question is with the fuel sender. two different set ups and im trying to figure out if there is any way to make this work!lexus sender is the first photo, it has 3 wirestoyota the 2nd with two wire.
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3-wire versus 2-wire is not the big issue. Resistance is the problem. Standard 70s-90s Toyota fuel gauge needs 2 ohms resistance to read full, and 110 ohms resistance to read empty. A 90s Lexus needs 4.6 ohms to read full and less then 1 ohm to read empty. They do NOT match as far as I can tell. You did not say which year or model Lexus though. As far as 2-wire versus 3-wire senders as shown in your photos? The Lexus image shows three leads . . . marked Fu, Fr, and Fe. "Fr" is the one the moves with the float in the tank. If Fr gets closer to Fu when the tank is full - then they take the place of two leads on the 70s-90s Toyota sender. If Fr gets closer to Fe when full then THEY take the place of the two leads like on the Toyota sender.
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My 1988 with the auto-trans has a slip-yoke on the driveshaft as it enters the rear of the A43D trans. The driveshaft support that mounts mid-way on the driveshaft is rubber mounted and allows fore and aft movement of the driveshaft as the leaf-springs rise and fall.
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The compression ranges from 160 to 170. Bear in mind on these numbers I am not a mechanic and do not have top of the line tool's, I also did the test on a cold engine.
My question is would the compression #'s indicate weather the valves need adjusting?
Any input, thoughts, ideas, wisdom, offers of help (free), advice, chit chat, criticism or wisecracks greatly appreciated. Jim SW FL
Compression-test readings will only tell you if the valve-clearance is loose enough to permit the valves to close during the compression stroke. Proper valve clearance puts the valve timing in the correct place and a compression gauge won't indicate if that is correct of not. The actual pressure reading you get is also not very important. What IS important is whatever reading you get - it basically even across all cylinders. If you DO get a low cylinder - a further test is to squirt some oil in it and then re-test. If oil makes the reading come up - the low compression is due to a worn cylinder-area. If adding oil changes nothing - it's leaking valves.
Refrigerator Recall?
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
I've got seven three-way refrigerators all working fine. The oldest is a Japanese-made Trav'ler that was made in1969. My newest is a Dometic made in 1986. I have three Dometic RM211s from 1976-78 Toyota Chinooks. Also a bigger Dometic from my 1971 Jayco that works great. I also have a German-made propane RV unit made in 1962. It also works. I have repaired many of these propane units with minor issues. I have never had one that needed an entire cooling unit