zero
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Sounds like a good price. I'm sure you know that Toyota's reputation has little to do with an RV body stuck on the back unless it's a Toyota-sponsored RV like a 70s Chinook. How does that V6 have only 7K miles? That's the only part of the story that would make me nervous unless you know, 100% for sure, what was replaced. That is unless the entire RV only has 7K miles. I see a lot of engines being called "rebuilt" or "new" that are not either.
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My wife insists on staying up to watch the news because she wants to see the weather. She has a laptop, tablet and phone. The weather is available 24/7. I see it like this, I carry a super computer in my pocket. I use an app (chuckle if you want to) called Accuweather. I like how it quickly gives me a snap shot of what is happening on the horizon.
. We are a long way out from Boston with hills in the way. Over the air is not in the cards for me.
My wife and I both have Android Minis and she also has a Kindle. But those "devices" only work when there is internet access which we do not get at our house unless I have the signal-amp turned on. No cell, data, or Internet coverage at our house without the roof-top yagi antennas and several amps of different frequency ranges. Even our home phone (Verizon Home-Phone wireless Connect) requires an antenna on the roof to work. So TV is easier since that amp is on all the time. We get many channels from over 100 miles distant along with a few analog TV channels from Canada. Hard to conceive of too many areas in New England that can't get over-the-air TV with a good set of antennas and amps - but I suppose there are a few dark holes somewhere. My place in central New York has no line-of-sight to any TV transmitters and we were surrounded by woods and mountaintops. Still managed to get half-a-dozen channels with some work - and none were closer then 65 miles. Only place I've been so far where I could get near nothing was in the middle of the woods in the New York Adirondacks. With a large UHF antenna mounted 30 feet high along witth a 30 dB preamp - we were able to get just one station - PBS. Seems government funded PBS comes in near anywhere.
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Looks like the same setup I have. You wheel diameter are probably the same front and rear but your lugs don't line up like mine. Right now I carry a spare for the front and none for the rear, figured I'd limp into a town if I get a flat. Would like someday to buy matching rear rims for the front so one spare will do me for front and back. I'm running 15" front and back though.
You need the front hubs and brake caliper mounts to use those 6 lug X 7.25" wheels on the front. Easy bolt-on swap for a later 80s Toyota. Not so easy if a 70s truck with coil-spring front suspension and dual-piston brake calipers. I've got matching wheels now with my 1978 Chinook with FF dually rear - but it REALLY needs a paint job and some body work. Still trying to find a way tor remove what the cajun did with his spray can. In the photos with my three Asian micro-minis side-by-side - only the 1984 Datsun has front wheels that do not match the back FF dually.
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Every time I hear "app" - it makes me laugh a bit. Just another marketing BS scheme that seems to have worked (calling a computer program an "app" to make it appeal to a younger generation). But yeah, my Android Mini has all sorts of little "programs" that can do neat things. Most of which I don't care about. But . . . recently I was trying to scan some black and white photo negatives in a flatbed scanner with NO success. So I searched on-line and found out people were doing it with their little "devices" by turning them into dull full-screen lights. So I downloaded a "little program" for my Android and tried it. WORKED GREAT. Just turned on the light for the full screen, laid it on top of the negative and then scanned it.
When this TV sound problem first surfaced - I was convinced the problem had to be inside that TV. Still am. I had bought two new Sansui TVs at the same time. A 19" and a 32" and both with built-in DVD players. One worked fine with channel 6 and the other did not. I asked Sansui tech over and over if the two TVs had the same tuner chips but never got an answer. And when I got an engineer at the WRGB Channel 6 engineering department - he said it was impossible for them to send a signal that was defective in a way to cause my problem True or not - I do not know.
At the time, Channel 6 was the only channel I cared to watch because it ran classic (old) TV shows and I liked to watch Perry Mason every night at 11 PM. THAT I miss. I always had a thing for Della Street - although she's an old bag now.
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An 8% grade is pretty steep. 25mph is not that bad. At least you were still moving. I stupidly attempted a 16% grade once and just stopped. Not fun
Linda S
I lived on a dirt road with a 32% grade for 25 years (the place in NY I just left). Hill Road, Worcester, NY. My 1988 Toyota Minicruiser with auto-trans could climb it just fine at 10 MPH - but if I stopped mid-stream - the torque-converter would just slip and it would not start again. Point to the story is - don't stop on a steep hill like that - just keep rollilng. My 6.2 liter diesel Chevy Blazer with a TH400 auto trans and 3.08 rear also could not go from a dead stop on that hill either unless I put it into low range. My 2002 Subaru Impreza with a 2.5 engine and 5 speed trans also could not start from a dead stop on that hill. Geared to high and would just stall the engine in 1st gear.
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I was kind of thinking if there was a line amp, it might be the slope on the FM trap just digging a bit too low or drift on the voltage controlled tuner. FM starts at 88MHz. D to A would be all stations and that wasn't the case.
Can't be a premap or line-amp issue. At my place in central NY where i had the problem - I had three antenna "farms." That is - three areas that had antennas all somewhat distant from another. One - the most distant - had a 30 dB preamp and two line amps along the way to the house (1000 foot run with RG11 coax). The second was only 300 feet from the house with a 30 dB premap and no line amp. The third was 75 feet from the house with no amp at all. All connected to a A-B-C coax switch box. When I'd lose sound on channel 6 - it would happen with all of the three separate antenna systems. Channel 6 just happens to be the strongest channel in the area so I was able to get it on all three systems.
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Nothing wrong with tune-up type work - but it won't do a thing for performance unless there is something wrong to start with.
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Unfortunately, the weak Walmart marine battery that came w/ the bus can't run the fridge for more than an overnight, at best. W/ a full charge, after I run about 20 amps out of it, I'm down to 12.2v and, when the fridge pulls in, it drops to 11.5. I'm going to replace the group 29 marine battery w/ 2 deep cycle 6 volt golf cart batteries. Way more bottom end "oomph" to handle the 13a load when the fridge is running.
Consumption: still looking at about 5 mins every hour for a total of 26 ah/day. Inverter draws about 0.4-0.5a at rest, so add another 12 ah/day for a total of 38 ah / day, or about 10 ah/day less than the fridge on the boat.
One twelve-volt BCI type 29 deep-cycle battery from Walmart has approx. the same amp-hour capacity as one Trojan T-105 six-volt battery. Two type 29s in parallel from Walmart have equal AH capacity as two Trojan T-105s (or Deka GC-2s) in series. Only difference should be longevity. The Trojans are built to sustain around 30% more discharge cycles and are priced accordingly.
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Oh you guys. LoL
FYI state of MA Licensed Radio and TV tech. Another one of my career/business dead ends. If there is a dying industry out there, I've worked in it.
I've got a "TV tech" question. I used to repair tube-type TVs with analog tuners and but am not up to date with the newer stuff. I've got a brand new TV that has a few people and tech-departments stumped. New LCD-LED 32" Sansui TV wih digital tuner. When it is tuned to channel 6 (actual RF channel 6 on low-band VHF) - after 10-15 minutes the sound stops working. Note - this ONLY happens on channel 6. I get three other low-band VHF channels and with them - all is fine. Same with all the UHF band channels. To get the sound back - I have to change to another channel, and then back to channel 6. Then the sound will work for another 10-15 minutes and crap out again. The Sansui tech people say it has to be a problem with the TV channel company and their transmitter (WRGB from Albany area, New York). I contacted WRGB and they say it must be a TV problem. So - I've gottten nowhere. Sansui says they cannot fix under warranty since they don't think there is anything wrong with this new TV. Note - we stuck several other TVs on the same coax line and with them - Channel 6 works fine and there is no loss of sound. I'm assuming there is some problem with the tuner chip in the TV. We now are living in northern Michigan where there IS no channel 6 to worry about and the TV works fine. I'd still like to know what the problem was or is.
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I had to patch some broken polybutylene lines this spring in my Minicruiser. My fault, they froze. Nice thing is - I was able to repair with PEX crimp fittings.
By the way - PEX is not "leak-proof" either. My in-law's house that was built in 1996 got several leaks this winter in the PEX "in-floor" heating lines. Not even high-pressure. PEX has had similar problems to what happened with polybutylene years back. PEX was common for years in heating but is somewhat new for domestic high-pressure use. There have been many failures with it - and again - most if not all being attributed to poor installs.
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, the other day went over a 3000 foot pass - it was an 8% grade for 3 miles to get over. I was at 40 at the beginning, with my speed dropping to a steady 25 quickly and until the top.
I have a 1988 20 foot Minicruiser with the 22RE engine and A43D auto-trans. Loaded pretty heavy with dual deep-cycle batteries in back, microwave, 3000 watt inverter, large extended rear bumper and cargo-carrier, three people and a dog, etc.. On a long 8% grade - it will slow down to 40 MPH and the trans get up to 230 degrees F. Once the road flattens out - trans temp goes right down to 190 F (engine temp). Originally had a 4.10 to 1 rear and now have a 4.56 to 1 rear. Makes little difference on hill-speed but engine works less and revs more. 4th OD was never very useful with the 4.10 to 1 rear - even on flat roads unless there was NO wind. With the 4.56 to 1 rear- MUCH better. I recently moved out of New York and here in morthern Michigan - the steepest highway I've found slowed us down to 50 MPH. No mountains here to speak of - just hills.
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hello to all, i am currently seeking to purchase my first motor home. i am only interested in the toyota's.
If I was looking for another RV - rot in the coach would be the biggest issue I've be fearful of. I don't believe there is any measurable difference in longevity between any of the Toyota RVs to worry about when it comes to 4 cylinder versus 6 cylinder. That being said - I'd stay away from anything that has dual real wheels attached to a rear made for single rear wheels (via an adaptor kit). Just about every RV coach made 70s-90s has wood somewhere. Since RV walls have no ventilation - wood has to get water-logged eventually and rot. Some RVs have a LOT of wood (like Dolphins), some a moderate amount of wood (like Minicruisers), and some less wood (like Sunraders and 70s Chinooks). I've got three Toyotas. Two Chinooks from the 70s and a 88 Minicruiser. All fun to drive but none are huge feats of engineering. I was camping in the Michigan UP last week and met a family with a 1994 Astro ProTiger van with pop-up roof. The coach is nearly all fiberglass. Has low wind resistance with the pop-up roof. And has gobs of power with the GM 4.3 V6. I drove it and loved it. They got it last year for $4500 with 80K miles on it. Gets 16-17 MPG which is going to beat any Toyota 20-21 footer out there and has more power then any of them. If I ever find one in that kind of shape for that sort of price - I'm going to buy it and it will likely replace my 20 foot Minicruiser. My Chinooks - I don't think I'll ever get rid of. 18-20 MPG and lots of fun - and not overloaded like the bigger Toyota RVs.
Don't get me wrong. I love out 1988 Minicruiser. Fun to drive, easy to work on, and easy to get into tight parking areas. But - 13-14 MPG is not what I call "astounding" for a vehicle that never gets driven faster then 60 MPH.
I spoke to a guy in the UP that has ten Toyota RVs. He has several Dolphins, a Minicruiser, two Sunraders, a Chinook, a Winnebago Warrior, etc. He says the 1991 Winnebago is hands-down his favorite. He says it gets the best gas mileage and handling. True or not, I do not know.
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Good Lord! Give me a break! There are MANY RVs around that have polybutylene plumbing that are fine. Also many houses. Saying something like "polybutylene is illegal" can certainly give someone the wrong impression of reality. So I suppose some of us DO find the subject relevant to "plumbing in an RV." That's a big problem with the Net. Someone says something on a forum - and true or not - it gets repeated and repeated and then taken as gospel by some. To counter that sort of thing -it is sometimes useful to inject a few correct facts that are easily researched by anyone with further interest.
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Bought any small gauge aluminum romex recently? That's where the problem was not larger gauge stranded wire. It was hateful junk and deserved to be banned.
Haven't seen any real "Romex" in many years. That was a NMB cable first made by a company in Rome, New York (thus the name ROMEX). But yes, the small aluminun NMC that came out during the height of the Viet Nam war had many problems. NONE were about the aluminum wire. The problems were all about poor installs, poor unsuitable connectors, etc. Aluminum wire is still very common in household and industrial wiring today. Just requires the correct connectors, anti-oxidant, etc. Many of the problems that were blamed on Polybutylene pipe were also about poor installs and unsuitable connectors. As far as using small wire for 15 or 20 amp circuits in a household? Any circuit that requires 12 gauge copper will require at least 10 gauge aluminum so the latter is MUCH harder to work with, stuff into small outlet boxes, etc. Who in their right mind would want to use it when copper is still reasonbly cheap?
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I will also address the the noise factor the Sensar antenna has a low noise amp the manufactures have gone to great pains to produce low noise amps because the TV manufactures have not done much of any thing as far as noise reducing circuits in the TV ever seen noise figure rating on a TV? Well no because they don't care they depend on the antenna people to fix it for them.
Winegard certainly in not known for making the best "low noise" preamps. Winegard and AntennaCraft are at the "higher" end when it comes to "noise" in preamps. Channel Master has had one of the best for years (at a reasonable cost). For those who want to spend big bucks - untra-low noise amps like the Research Communication model # 9260 premap from England is one of the best. 23 dB average gain with HDTV and .4 dB noise (note that is point-four of a deci-Bell).
http://www.researchcomms.com/hdtv.html
I've run many real-world tests with many antennas in fringe reception areas with just about every amp on the market. Also with over dozen makes of TVs. I hate to say it but I've found very little difference in reception when it comes to preamp noise. dB of gain was the biggest factor to make-or-break a weak signal. I've had some crappy Radio-Shack (Antenna Craft) amps with 8 dB of noise and Research Communications preamps with less then 1 dB of noise and observed very little difference. As far as too many amps ruining a signal? Not my experience at all. My house in NY had six antenna over 1000 feet from the house,hooked with RG11 coax and multiple amps all the way. As long as too much gain was not created - it made the difference between no channel at all - to a good viewable channel. My biggest gripe with certain amps is longevity. I've had many Winegard and AntennaCraft units burn out after two years or a few distant lightning strikes guite a distance away. To the converse, the Channel Master CM7777 Titan seems to be near indestructable. At least the older ones were with the switchable FM trap and the dual inputs (one for VHF and one for UHF). New ones have changed a big and only time will tell if they are as rugged.
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I asked them if it was not a mistake to have a 12-volt and two 6-volt batteries all hooked together in the same system,
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It doesn't make a damn bit of difference. A "12 volt" battery is just six battery cells, wired in series, and stuck in a box. A "six volt" battery is three battery cells, hooked in series, and stuck in a box. Hooking two 6 volt batteries together is series just makes on big 12 volt battery. Age is more of a factor.
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Most of us have hills or buildings in the way.
As do the places I've tested many antennas in central NY. 60 miles to the closest transmitter tower with no line-of-sight to any of them. Many mountian-tops and trees in the way. I've yet to find any small antenna that can do well on low-band VHF (channels 2 to 6). High band - they work but not great (7-13). The Winegard Sensar has a relatively low-gain amp and benefits greatly if a 30 dB amp is added to it. As far as the Winegard amp being "low noise." I've yet to see any specs on the actual noise ratio or gain in dBs on specific bands. Just 15.5 dB "average" raitng which is kind of meaningless.
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Your pump is likely much higher quality? Jim
Hey - if the HF pump can pull 29" of vacuum - that's all that counts. I've gotten some great tools from HFalong with some absolute crap. You never know.
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I hate to tell you this now but your MH makes a very good vacuum pump the brake booster line will drop the vacuum to about the same as a pump will even just stuck over the gauge center fitting.
I've yet to see a gas engine pull 29"-30" of mercury for vaccum. 15"-20" maybe. The main reason to use a good vacuum pump on the AC system is to lower the boiling point of any trapped moisture to room temperature so it boils out. 15" of vacuum lets water boil at 176 degrees F. 20" of vacuum lets water boil at 160 F. If you are working in a shop with a temp of 75 degrees F - it takes 29" of vacuum at least - to make moisture boil out of the AC system. If the shop is 65 degrees F - it takes even more vacuum. 29" is considered the bare minimum for AC work.
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I bought a $99 Harbor freight vacuum pump with a 20% off coupon and found a new manifold set on Ebay for $27 with free shipping! In hindsight I would buy better gauges. When I am done with this I will sell them. I do have the luxury of a friend that has a Flea market stand in the winter so will likely break even on them.
Jim SW FL
That HF pump looks like a great deal. When I bought my vacuum pump - HF did not have them and I paid $200 for a used pump from a pawn shop.
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Banned? Illegal? Whatever!!
There is a HUGE difference between something being "illegal' and something not approved under certain codes in certain applications. Even if you live in an area that has adopted certain building codes as local laws or statutes - it's just for certain types of uses and has nothing to do with RVs.
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PB-1 is not "illegal" It's grandfathered. Like aluminan wire, the problems didn't arrise until years later.
I'm sure many 3rd world countries and some Michigan residents are oblivious to current laws.
Seems you are the one a bit "consused" about laws, codes, etc. Aluminum wire is certainly still legal and I just installed a new, code approved 100 amp service with #2 URD/USE #2 aluminum. But yeah, I'm in Michigan and perhaps I'm "oblivious" to a certain law the you claim exists. If you know of such a law - why not just tell us what it is.
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Easy answer "all knowing".
Go out and buy some. Let me know how you doo. :-)
I cannot go out and buy a brand new 1964 Chevelle either but not because it's "against the law." More because GM no longer makes it. Same with polybutylene and the fittings. The companies who made and sold it in the USA stopped. Note - YOU are the one who claimed it's illegal. Just asking you for a reference.
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So I decided to do what I always do and look into what is involved. S
Unless you get lucky and your system is just low but not empty - you will need a vacuum pump before you try to convert or charge your system. That is often a big expense for someone who does not plan on doing a lot of AC work. That is, unless you can borrow one from a friend. You can buy an el-cheap venturi-type vacuum pump if you've got an air-compressor to hook to - for less then $20. But if you live in a high altitude (over 3000 feet) it is almost not worth trying to use. If you cracked open the schrader-valve and nothing came out - you've got a totally discharged system and there must be a reason. Contrary to what some people claim - an AC system in good shape does not leak out - even if 30 years old. My 1979 Datsun system has never been touched since new and I had it parked for 11 years without being run at all. My 1978 Toyota Chinook system still works too but I have no idea how many repairs it has seen in its life. It does still have R12. Same for my 1994 Ford which still has the factory fill. My 1988 Toyota Minicruiser had many slow leaks - so I fixed them and converted to 134A. Works fine so far (two summers now).
Fantastic Fans, Options/opinions?
in General Discussion
Posted
I took the rooftop AC out of my Minicruiser and replaced it with a Fantastic Fan with three speeds, forward/reverse and a thermostat. It was on sale for $80 and has too many options as it is. Nothing wrong with the thermostat except I'd rather not have it. Just adds to confusion when trying to turn it on or off (if I forget it's there). We love it. Put it in reverse and crack a few windows open and it creates a window breeze all night. Last week we had a mosquito problem in the Michigan UP and we had MANY inside our Toyota RV. We put the fan on high and many if not most of those damn mosquitos got stuck on the fan-screen (on the inside) where we could kill them.