zero
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Posts posted by zero
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Well on the 2001 Mustang, the front wheel bearing assembly is not like the Toyota and that was the point. It is a bolt in hub with sealed bearings.
I was talking about something like a 1965 Mustang. I wasn't thinking about something new. Many if not most newer cars - use pre-assembled cup and cone bearings just like 65 Mustang I'm talking about though. The difference being there is no adjuster nut; just a shim pack and all is pressed into a "unit" housing and considered non-servicable and usually replaced as an assembly. That being said, I have taken a few part and just replaced the bearings. There were a few Japanese car makers that toyed with ball-bearings instead of cup-and-cone in those assemblies but it did not work well. That was the reason for the big Subaru wheel-bearing recall. Failed ball-bearings. The new replacements were sealed cup-and-cone again.
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There are plenty of bearings in a vehicle that see constant duty under full load so why not such a bearing under partial load. Take the front wheel bearing on the hub of say my son's old Mustang. Sealed wheel bearing hub always under the load of weight and when moving. So I do not find the idea unimaginable.
"Angular contact bearing" isn't anything new. Just a bearing designed to take radial and thrust load - like an adjustable Timken cup and cone setup. That's what your son's Mustang has for front wheel bearings that you mention. Not sure what advantage that is supposed to offer as a clutch release bearing. None that I know of over a thrust bearing. In the case of the Mustang though, or the front wheel hubs on a Toyota - not what I'd called "sealed" in that context. To me, the connotation of "sealed" means it's lubed once, sealed, and no way to relube. Like a conventional clutch release bearing, a rear wheel bearing on a Toyota semi-floater 5 lug rear axle, etc. Many of the new clutches with hydraulic actuators run at near zero clearance and self-adjust. The bearing might spin a bit but at a zero pressure situation, I doubt at full engine speed. On the Mustang you mention - the bearings are not "rubbing" against something that will wear out. Seems to me such a situation with a clutch would eventually wear off the surface areas of the diaphram spring-fingers on the clutch pressure-plate. Having a bearing pushing against them won't wear them out. Nor will not turning with them. But just sort of hanging there in limbo rubbing against them would wear off the fingers - which I have seen happen many times in faulty setups. If someone HAS designed such a setup - I'd like to see the actual specs on it. Sounds like a poor one to me. And yes, I've read that many ponderings and Web-gossip columns on the subject including even one guy claiming it's all analogous to a front disk brake setup. That because it too has constant contact. I guess that guy never heard of the modern "low drag" disk brakes?
In the case of the poster here? I'd like to hear exactly what is really wearing out. Bearing whining? Clutch fingers wearing off? Maybe someone is "barking up the wrong tree" and the issue is the pilot bearing? Or a complete clutch set was used with mis-matched components?
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The plastic bushing is the normal bad-wear area for the L42 and L43 trans in Chinooks. I replaced two last year - in a 1977 and a 1978 model-year Chinook. Marin did not have it at that time. Many Toyota dealers did. Only costs around $3. Some of those shifter parts vary - even during the same year of production. Those plastic bushings seem to be the same from 1972 to beyond 1980. Bushing is reference # 33548 in the parts diagram I already posted. Actual Toyota parts # is 3354830010.
Toyota part # 3354830010
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Yes, that's one sure way to increase MPGs. That or just use British/Imperial gallons instead of US "wine" gallons.
I'm still trying to figure out how Toyota Chinook got away with claiming 29 MPG in early advertising.
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Here are few more photos. In an old camper I saw something moving. The camper stuck something awful too. Then I heard something hissing at me. Ends up it was two baby vultures. Also saw a baby bald eagle who was bigger the his mom (or maybe dad?)
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We just spent a few days travelling the eastern upper peninsula of Michigan. Came across two other Toyota mini-micros. One used as an office in the middle of a black bear refuge in Newberry. The other a Winnebago at Saulte Sainte Marie on the Canadian border.
Damn near got stuck a few times on loose "sugar sand" roads that are half-a-foot deep with loose sand when at their best.
We put the Toyota on a ferry to Sugar Island to look over some wetlands we may want to buy. A huge dually truck with an 11 foot camper pulled up next to us on the ferry and made our rig look tiny. Yet - the ferry toll for the huge truck was $14 and the ferry guy was going to charge us $24 for our little Toyota. Why? We had a "motorhome" while the big truck was just a "truck and a camper." I argued a bit and the ferry guy finally decided to call out little Toyota a "truck and camper" also.
We saws some neat stuff. Got sort of "attacked" by a pair of wild turkeys after I yelled at them to get the heck out of the road.
We hiked a long ways into a 160 acre parcel of wetlands to look at a very sensitive bog. Had a lot o neat plant life including meat-eating plants like Pitcher plants and Sundew. My wife and I are thinking about buying the place. Just not sure yet. The Feds likely would never let us build any sort of driveway into it.
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so it is an l43. the mechanic is saying they are having trouble because they look up parts by vin # and the vehicle is so old that the vin # is in a different format. any ideas about how i can get them on the right track?
again, thank you all so much for your help.
Yes, as I said before. You cannot look it up on-line as anything older then a 1979. The 1979 parts book uses the later VINs and works fine for what you need. Anything older will need a paper format parts book. Just look up your rig as a 1979 and you'll do fine.
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Nice to see an ad claiming 13 MPG instead of 23 MPG! I've seen a lot of BS when it comes to fuel mileage in RV ads. Mostly micro-mini gas jobs or bigger RVs with diesels.
I've put 6700 miles on my 1988 Minicruiser within the past two years. 22RE and auto trans. So far, my overall average accounting for every drop of gas I ever put into it comes to 13.3 MPG. Got a few fills that gave me a reading of over 16 MPG (I'm sure inaccurate somehow) and also a few fills as low as 11.8 MPG when driving against strong winds.
I suspect the seller claims a 12 gallon gas tank because he's never got more then that into it? I know mine reads near empty when it's ready to take 12 gallons but certainly has a lot more in reserve. My full-size Ford diesel truck with dual 19 gallon tanks is the same way.
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I don't believe it averages 28 MPG. I don't know how you get your readings but it make no sense to me. Heck, my 1985 Isuzu mini-truck with a 2.2 diesel and manual trans gets an average of 28 MPG and that's just a bare mini-truck. I know the mileage would drop like a rock if it had a camper body mounted on it. That's why I never tried to stick my 1978 Chinook body on it.
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Bearing design used to REQUIRE freeplay. Freeplay was an actual air gap between the bearing face and the levers or later fingers that allowed the bearing to NOT TURN with your foot off of the pedal.
Yes, and as far as I know, they still DO require free-play. All that has changed is now - most (but not all) hydraulic clutch linkage systems - the system is self-adjusting until the clutch disk wears to a point. Then - all free play is lost, and soon the clutch is partially disengaged all the time and slips so bad it must be fixed.
I don't know where you are getting your info. I've worked on a lot of newer cars and trucks with hydraulic systems and they all required free-play. Designing a system with a sealed (non-system lubed) bearing that turns all the time would be kind of absurd. If you have any info on ANY factory built system that has a "no free play" design for a manual clutch - please post. I'd like to see it. Only one I'm privy too is the John Deere system for PTOs on farm tractors. They however, use a "throw-in" bearing that only gets used with the clutch engaged and has lots of free play when NOT in use.
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My throw out bearing went in my 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 manual long bed 2 wheel drive. I had it replaced by a friend and that one went in the next 200 miles. I then replaced it with another and that one went in 40 miles. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening? It is killing me financially!
Doubt it matters if it's a Dodge, Toyota, John Deere, etc. Throw-out bearing is only supposed to turn when the clutch is disengaged. It does NOTHING otherwise. If there is no clearance between the bearing and pressure-plate when your foot is NOT on the clutch pedal - it will see as much use in one day of driving as it would normally get in a full year. The "200 miles" you mention is not the issue. More of the issue is how long was that bearing turning during those 200 miles? Somebody is doing something wrong.
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Here's what the trans and engine looks like when you yank it out of a Chinook. Also some parts breakdowns of the shifter parts. Can you ID the parts you need?
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I'm looking to put a tachometer in my 87 Seabreeze. I'm looking at an Autometer that goes to 5000 rpm. Is that high enough? Should I get the one that goes to 8000. Thanks
I bought several mini-tachs for $13 each and have had them installed for over a year. Been working flawlessly. As to how high? Mine go to 8000 RPM but 5000 would be high enough for me. I won't run my engine over 3800-4000 RPM anyway.
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4 speed. Not sure on the transmission type. Will find out tomorrow. Thanks!
It's an Aisin L42 or L43. Knowing which is not enough. L42 and L43 four-speeds have several variations in the shift linkage parts. Last I needed a few last year, they were all still available from Toyota. But . . you need to visually inspect your's and then match what you see in the on-line parts diagrams at Toyota. Note - if you want to look on-line, you'll have to call it a 1979 truck. 1978 parts not made digital for on-line look-ups. I have 3-4 complete extra four speed transmissions from 1977 and 1978 Chinooks if you really get stuck for a part.
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I spent a lot more time then planned simpy trying to get a new oxygen sensor for my 1988 2.4 EFI engine. In a 1988 Toyota Minicrusier RV. I also had a 1987 cab & chassis box truck that had the same sensor.
Two tries from auto parts stores got me the wrong sensor with four wires instead of one. All their catalogs only showed a one-wire sensor for engine with carbs and only a four-wire for fuel-injection. I had similar trouble years back with a 1985 Chevy with an oxygen sensor and a carb (with electric venturis). I tried the vehicle lookup at the Bosch site and still came up with only the four-wire sensor.
Long story a bit shorter - the OEM number from Toyota by VIN was 89465-19055. That was discontinued and replaced with 89465-19565.
Airtex/Wells subs that over to the Bosch 19051 (sold only for carbed engines by Bosch). Or a Denso 234-1051.
So I guess a "carbed" oxygen sensor it is for my EFI engine.
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At noon on a sunny day I've seen over 15 amps going into the batteries from our two 120w panels.
We're very happy with the way things have worked out so far.
You must have a lot better sun then I've ever gotten in cental NY or northern Michigan. The most I've ever read on a 120 watt panel (Kyocera, Evergreen, or Sharp) was 6.8 amp @ 14 volts amps in full sun. I've had the same do 8 amps in extreme cold and snow white-out conditions. Glad your system is working well for you.
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I have toyed with the gauge and managed to get it to hold vacuum for 30 minutes. The AC guys seem to think this is enough to go ahead and charge.
Thanks for the input always appreciated. Jim SW FL
If any "AC guy" told you to it's OK to charge with a leak like that, I don't think he knows his a*s from a hole in the ground. A sound system will hold a vacuum for days, weeks, etc. without going down at all. And even when a system will hold a vacuum with NO loss for a week - it still might leak when charged. 29" of vacuum is not the same as 150 PSI of pressure that happens when the AC is working. That's why I always pressure check mine with soapy water. Saves a lot of wasted refrigerant and recharges.
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I've been on many wild goose chases looking at trucks and RVs that were not anything like described on the phone or by email.
This Chinook was supposed to be in "good shape" but just had been sitting a few years. Seller was asking $1000 for it. I wound up buying it for $275 and stripping the parts from it.
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What the h*ll is a "stroke" motorhome?
Also, what the heck is a "RE' V6??
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A few more also showing the new speedo adapter gearbox.
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Here are some photos of when I took mine apart. This gives you an idea of the parts inside.
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Not being a mechanic I have never noticed this before. I did a web search and it talks about thermostat bypass pipe. This is different. I always thought that a thermostat was open or closed?
Cleaning up a bit on the engine with no hose's or radiator installed I noticed that water comes out of the fitting where the thermostat is. Not a lot like it is stuck open and not just a tiny dribble, hard to describe the amount without a video. Is this normal or do I have a problem?
Jim
Any thermostat I've seen has some sort of bypass. Either in the thermostat itself, or via a bypass hose in the housing. Thermostats themselves come in tight sealing units with a rubber gasket (like some OEM Toyota stats), and others with just metal against metal that never seal completely tight. Some also have bleeder valves that leak. So - in your case - I'd say you have no problem unless either your engine runs too cool or too hot.
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You've got the 7.8" or 8" (same thing) diff, open as you said, and with only two differential pinions. V6 rear and some turbos have four.
I did it myself but I've done many before (I was a heavy equipment and diesel mechanic for many years). It's not something the average "prof" mechanic in an auto repair shop will know how to do, So yes - I'd say it would be a challenge to someone who does not have a lot of mechanical experience. You need a press to take things apart. You also have two pairs of adjustable bearings that the preload must be set correctly (pinion and differential bearings). That part is not all that difficult. The hardest part is proper gear mesh. The pinion gear sits at a 90 degree angle to the ring gear and it's position (fore or aft) is critical to get a finished unit that runs quietly and does not howl at high speeds. That final depth gets determined by a shim pack and is measured with gear marking compound. That marking compound used to be generically called "Prussian Blue." A tube of it comes with the install kit. You first install the gears by "eye", then coat with the marking compound, and then run them and see what sort of gear-mesh pattern evolves. There are charts to show you what the correct pattern looks like. On big pieces of heavy equipment, the job is easier then with the little Toyota. On the big stuff, like farm tractors, log skidders, tractor-trucks - the new gears come with numbers stamped on them that tell you what thickness of shim pack to use. Nothing like that on the little Toyota. I use the old shim pack from the original gears as a starting point. Then mark the gears and check. Takes some trial and error to get it right. This is why many people along with some repair shops prefer to install assembled used center-sections from junkyards. No setup involved. Problem is, yoiu rarely know the condition of the assembled unit when you buy. Cars and trucks with rear wheel drive tend to come with two different types of drive-axles. Hotchkiss and Salisbury. Hotchkiss has a differential sub-assembly that you can remove intact with all the bearings and gears in place. That's what Toyota and many Ford trucks use. Other makes like GM with Salisbury rears have no unit to remove and any gear work or setup must be done in-place. So the Toyota is handy in the respect that you can easily swap entire center drive units withlout takiing them apart. Or - for new gears - remove the center assembly and take to someone to install. If if was a Salisbury GM or Jeep, you'd have to bring the entire vehicle in - or the entire rear axle assembly into the shop.
One word of caution - the "crush collar" on the pinion shaft. On big stuff - a stack of shims is used between the two pinion-shaft bearing so you can tighten the pinion nut extremely tight and it won't put any undue pressure on the bearings. But - on the Toyota, they used a cheap assembly trick via the "crush collar." It's a tube of thin steel that goes between the bearings. As you tighten the pinion nut (that holds the driveshaft pinion yoke on), it crushes that tube and makes it get shorter. You have to carefully tighten it unitl it gets just short enough to make the load on the bearings perfect. If too lose, the pinion wobbles and the pinion seal leaks. If too tight - the pinion bearings burn up. It's a "one shot" or "one try" deal. If you overtighten, you can't back off and start over again unless you get a new fresh crush collar. I've seen many a GM and Toyota come into a shop for a new pinion seal and the "mechanic" winds up ruining the pinion bearings by over-tightening that pinion nut.
Went Through 3 Throwout Bearings In 1 Month/ 2003 Dodge Ram 2500
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
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What do you mean there is no "pilot bearing?" The stub on the end of the transmission has to turn against some sort of bearing surface when not turning and the end of the crankshaft is. Or, do you mean it has a non-replaceable bearing? Even if it is just a bored hole in the crank it is still a bearing surface.