zero
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38 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Sorry, but neither I nor Google seem to have heard of the 'Bowl Head Indians'.
BTW, Mohawks in these parts now.
Your Google must be defective (besides being spelled wrong by the creator). Bowl-Head Indians are still in Canada and incorporated into the Atikamekw people. Like most Indian names - they often get stuck with derogatory names given to them by the French or English or sometimes other Indians. I get lazy and use the term "Bowl-Head" because I get tired of trying to use French letter characters with my USA keyboard. The name in Quebec (note even "Quebec" is supposed to have an aigu over the first "e" but it is too much work) - Bowl-Head spelled properly iis Tête de boule
Like the Huron Indians here are really Oundats ("huron" is sort of meant "crude moron" in old French).
Or "Iroquois" that is a French insult meaning "black snake."
Or "Adirondack" that is an insult meaning "bark eater."
Or "Mohawk" is an insult meaning "man eater."
The poor Bowl-Heads got their name from French priests in Quebec that forced the kids to become Christians and get bad haircuts. My family lived with them.
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38 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Just noticed this among all the 'fluff'.
Two words:- la chute --> the fall (as in water)
Thanks and interesting. I had a feeling the "Lac" might not be for "lake, but was not sure. Part of my family came from Saint-François-du-Lac and lived with the Bowl-Head Indians.
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On 8/16/2016 at 9:18 AM, Totem said:
I don't care how you spend your money. just dont pee in the wind and tell me its raining..
I like the way the Outlaw Josey Wales said it in 1976 (Clint Eastwood). Great movie.
Don't piss down my back and tell me its raining
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11 hours ago, jjrbus said:
They will let you return it after using, that is a surprise! My search indicates they put out 1900 watts, not the 2200 continuous they advertise. Jim
I like to see some actual test specs. I don't own an HF generator but know a few people who do and love them. Watt-ratings can be misleading. Amps at working voltage under load is more important - at least to me. 120 volts alternating-current is supposed to be 170 volts at both ends of the Hertz Cycle. Many generators only run at 150 volts at the peaks and nadirs. So one might be rated 2200 watts but be low voltage, while another might be rated 2200 watts with higher voltage. Obviously - if you plug in an air-conditioner and what is supposed to be an average of 120 volts is in effect 105 volts (very common with generators) - the rated amp-draw climbs. Just a product of Georg Ohm's Law. A 2200 watt generator that can supply and average 120 volts @ 18 amps will often work better then a 2200 watt generator making an average of 105 volts @ 21 amps.
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13 hours ago, Maineah said:
You are lucky the Honeywell was rated one of the worst. All though my cheapy does continue to run, fuel line leak gasoline all over the floor. Fuel line shut off leak gasoline all over the floor. Fuel gauge disengaged, plastic parts through the entire fuel system, carb fuel leak gasket at the bowl no such a thing as kit new carb (not a big deal $16.95) but it's annoying things like that. Oil leak at low oil sensor oil leak at front crank seal. Honda used far harder oil change and fill with fuel. That’s why I won’t buy a cheap one that I need rely on.Your results may very.
Honeywell had two versions of the 2000i. Early ones like mine were red. Newer ones were white. I have no idea if there is any difference other then the color and cosmetics. I had one problem with mine. It started leaking gas and I found out the little in-line plastic fuel-filter had a crack in it. So I had to buy a new filter down at my local NAPA for $4. Other then that, it has run flawlessly.
My first experience with an inverter-generator may of been with one of the first on the USA market. Coleman 900 or 1000 watt with a two-stroke-cycle engine. I always like Coleman stuff and like the idea it was from a USA company and would have product-support. I don't care about product support in a conventional generator since much is generic. But with an inverter-generator - there are some esoteric and complex electronics. So, I used my new Coleman a few times and loved it. Then when only two months old and used maybe a dozen times - it stopped working. It started fine, but would not "load-sense" and rev up and make power. So I called Coleman tech and even though my unit was under warranty - they said I likely needed a new circuit board and they could not provide one. They said they also had no new units to replace mine. They gave me two options. See if I could find a new one still on the shelf somewhere and maybe a swap could be worked out, or they'd just give me a partial, pro-rated refund IF I paid to ship the unit back to them. What a bunch of crap! I was pretty shocked, especially since it is a rare event when I buy something new. I then asked Coleman to send me a schematic of the circuit board so I could attempt to repair it myself. They refused. Tech guy said the circuit design was "proprietary" and could not be released. No wonder Coleman generator went bankrupt. I sold it on Ebay for $75 and that was that. I have had much better product support from Harbor Freight.
One comment on Honda. I went to a Honda power-equipment dealer last year to order parts for the carburetor on my 1973 motorcycle. No problem. Parts were ordered and I had them a week later. And yes, I could of done the same with a Google-search. My point is - Honda was pretty good about it. MUCH better then Coleman with generators or Dometic with refrigerators. Or Dodge with no parts for my 1998 van. Or even Briggs & Stratton. I have a four-stroke-cycle 5 horse outboard motor made by Briggs & Stratton. Pretty neat and not what I'd call "old" 2009 or 2010 vintage I think. I just tried to order a new carb from Briggs and they say "obsolete." I'm sure I can find one elsewhere, but the point is - so many companies I used to respect have awful support. I can buy a brand new complete 3 horse outboard from China for $175. Makes me want to order two of them and not worry about support I may never get.
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I had a funny experience with Chinese tires just before I moved out of New York state. My wife's tires were bald on her 1992 VW diesel Jetta. Small 14" tires but an odd-ball size that Walmart did not carry. A friend of mine with a small repair shop and Cooper tire dealership gave me a price of $80 each, installed (plus tax). So I went to Tires-Easy.com and they shipped four Ching-Chong, no-name Chinese tires to my door for $27 each and no tax. I had my own tire-machine but no balancer. So I called my friend and asked if he would balance the tires once I mounted them. He refused. He claimed that Chinese tires are so poorly made - they can never be balanced and then he kind of scolded me for buying Chinese crap. So? I said "screw it" and put them on and made no attempt to balance. I then drove the Jetta on the Interstate at 80 MPH and it ran smooth as glass. Same at low speeds. Maybe it was just "luck of the draw" but those tires worked great. Can't speak about longevity. We sold the car when we moved.
Here is one bad report though. Two years ago I went to Tractor Supply and bought two new tires for my boat trailer. 8" or 10" tires (I forget). I did that since I was going to tow the boat 800 miles to Michigan and wanted no problems - especially with my wife pulling it. We got here fine. I just took the tarp off of it, put Michigan hull stickers on it and launched it. To my surprise - those new Chinese tires have big side-wall rot cracks in them and they are only two years old (or at least two years since I bought them). DOT date stickers say they were made in 2013.
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21 minutes ago, Maineah said:
If you find a cheap RV fridge around here it won't work. There are 5 known RV for scrap around here of the 5, 5 of the fridges don't work I have been trying to find one for a camp. Rent a box truck bring them east you'll sell them all in a day.
I lived in central NY for over 40 years. Besides my own stuff, or odd-ball stuff brought to me for repair, I also worked at a RV dealership for a year in Middletown, NY (Bellows & May Inc.). During that entire time, and up to now - I have yet to ever come a three-way fridge with a bad cooling unit. Note I am NOT saying it does not happen. I am simply saying I have yet to encounter one. Many refrigerators I come across don't work, or just work on DC, or just work on AC, or just work on propane, etc. Most have been easy fixes. Oddly the most difficult to work on are the little RM211s in Chinooks. I assume the reason why I come across - so far - only salvageable units is because most campers I see - sit all winter and get used maybe two weeks a year in the summer and that's it. They sit outside, snow ruins them, and get given away and still-working appliances stripped out. So far, seems to be the same here in northern MI. My neighbor just towed home a 24 foot-long Jayco trailer, maybe from mid-80s? He paid $200 for it and is going to fix it up for his daughter. Has a big, looks like a 5 cubic foot Dometic three-way and it works fine. Furnace works fine too. Ceiling is rotted out. I walked over yesterday and took a look. He has the entire ceiling ripped out and the roof "rafters" are all thin pieces of wood, maybe 2" X 3"? No rot on them and that surprises me since the plywood ceiling was entirely rotted out. Anyway - my point is - he just paid $200 and got a good working Dometic 3-way, a good working electronic-ignition furnace, plus and entire camper that seems to be in pretty nice shape except for the ceiling. I no longer bother to take offers of "free motorhomes if I tow away." NOT unless they are micro-minis. A lot of work and just winds up with me adding to my already huge pile of RV equipment I'll likely never use. And again, I have not encountered a huge market for the stuff. At least not locally. I just offered a good working 3-way Dometic, 4 cubic foot to a member on this forum last week who lives in southern Michigan (I think). I offered it to him for $25 and he did not take me up on the offer. I gave him my real name, real address, real phone number, etc. I won't mention his name but he is free to chime in if he wants. He can easily prove that my offers for refrigerators are not BS as one person claims around here. He (the forum member) was taking a trip with his grandson in his Toyota RV but was not sure he wanted to wander this far north. I can understand that. Michigan is a big place and I do not want to wander down "south." If I did, I'd go all the way to the RV Museum in Elkhart, Indiana. I really want to camp there for a few days and use their RV research library.
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On 8/15/2016 at 11:43 AM, Gulfstream Greg said:
2002 F350 dully Crew cap with a flatbed dump. Right around 9500 lbs empty. 20 and 40 gal fuel tanks. Only 135k miles on it. Trailer 2002 Fleetwood Prowler. our 2002 F350 7.3 diesel. It seats 6, flys up mountains at the speed limit and gets 10 mpg no matter what.
Have you ever check MPGs on an empty highway cruise? Just curious. I've been driving and working on Ford-Internation Harvester diesels since they came out. It is very difficult to get a concept of actual fuel mileage because so many people fantasize over their figures. Your's sound close to my actual experience.
My first was a 1983 F250 with a 6.9 IDI diesel (same basic engine as the 7.3). C6 trans, 4WD, extended cab, longbed, and 4.10 axles. Got 9-11 MPG no matter what I did or how I drove. This while others were claiming up to 30 MPG.
Next was my 1994 F250 with a 7.3 IDI turbo-diesel, extended cab, 4WD, long-bed, E40D trans, and 4.10 axles. 17 MPG empty at 60 MPH in New York. 18 MPG in Michigan (flatter and lower altitude).
Note that Motor Trend tested a new at the time 2009 F250, 4WD, with the 6.4 twin-turbo diesel. 4 door, short box, and 3.73 axles. It got a highway average when empty of 12.7 MPG at 60-65 MPH.
They then hooked a boat to it with a total weight (truck, boat and trailer) of 14,000 lbs. Got highway average @ 60-65 of 11.7 MPG.Going by what the 2009 6.4 tested at, you are doing pretty good.
I find accurate MPG figures rare enough with lighter rigs that the EPA also rates. Much harder to find on heavier trucks that are exempt from EPA testing.
Here are some figures from my 7.3 indirect-injected, turbo. 4WD, longbed, extended cab, auto trans with OD and lockup, 4.10 axles, gooseneck
1200 mile trip in Canada with a heavily loaded, high-roof slide-on camper - 12.4 MPG and 60-65 MPH most of the time
1400 mile trip pulling an empty flatbed equipment trailer that weighs 4200 lbs. - 13.1 MPG
1600 mile trip with same trailer and a Kia Sportage 4WD on it - 12.4 MPG average for the trip
1400 mile trip with an overloaded U-Haul box-trailer, 6' X 12' - 12.8 MPG
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26 minutes ago, Totem said:
they do that for winter to add weight and it wont freeze
Yes, we used calcium-chloride for years to do the same. NOT for vehicles that ever got driven fast though and kind of rare on a backhoe-loader that has all the weight it needs. On the rear of a farm-tractor, yes. Beet juice is much preferred when cost-efficient since it does not rust out the steel rims. Usually has the brand-name "Rim Guard" and it seems Michigan has a huge surplus of sugar beets. Come fall they show up here in dump-truck loads for bear-bait. I was taken by surprise to find it in the rear of my Deere backhoe.
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5 hours ago, linda s said:
No I just don't believe some of the stories you tell. You will say anything to contradict me or try to start an argument and I'm about done with you. I spent time searching for that part, which is available, thinking it would be a bit of a peace offering so we could at least co-exist but you turned it into a worse argument. Funny most people would have just said thank you.
Linda S moderator
If you can point out even one thing or "fact" I've posted- ever - that can be shown to be erroneous and just something "made up" to discredit you - I'd like to see it. Please be specific. What I do is post when I either have a different opinion, or knowledge of a verifiable fact that differs from what someone else has posted. If you do not like it; too bad. Grow up. Note I have never sent you any unprovoked nasty private messages, have I? Cannot say the same for you.
As far as the locking clamp on the Dometic refrigerator? Most people - after the crap you threw my way early on with that discussion would of said something quite different to you then "thanks." Getting past that early part of the discussion when you first disputed my claim about not being able to find the part - you then said it was "never available", and then said you'd found one. At what did you find? You indeed found a Dometic part that looks like what I have. It is not listed for my refrigerator and I have no idea if it will work. Interesting find, just the same. I mean that seriously. I do not know if it will work and won't until I actually get my hands on one. I called Dometic tech service and they say if it is not listed for my refrigerator andI should assume it is the wrong part. Of course, they may be incorrect.
I do not know what you mean when you say you are "about done with me." If that means you will get off my case, and stop making failed attempts to make some of my posts look foolish - that is fine with me. Remember the impact-screwdriver post? Some guy trying to find a way to get his Philips-head screws loose in his Chinook windows. I told him a $5 hammer-impact wrench works great and you jumped in saying my suggestion was ridiculous. Remember? Seems you did not even know what a hammer-impact wrench was and just made an incorrect leap and assumed some sort of air gun? Funny. You were dead-wrong yet never apologized. Not eve close. Yet - now - I have "short-changed" you for a part you found, unknown to be correct, after you first tried to discredit my post about that same part.
I know you know a lot Linda. You have made some very helpful and informative posts. You also seem to find it impossible to accept it when you are wrong about something. Believe it or not, I do not. I just do not accept things based on hear-say or 2nd-hand info, gleaned off the Net. I am a trained records researcher and learned long ago to seek primary documents and verifiable facts over "common beliefs" with no trail of proof to back them up. I do not like being wrong and but have no trouble admitting it - and then getting pissed off at myself - not someone else.
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Well, I DO know what makes them worse. Fill them with beet juice. I had to drive my backhoe at full speed down the highway at maybe 30 MPH and it shook so bad I had to quit. Ends up the tires were filled with beet-juice. What a mess cleaning that crap out! Ran down the road like a dream after I got done with the clean-out.
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Derek - I keep forgetting to ask. You are from Lachute, Quebec, correct? I am curious. Was that name originally "Lac Hute" as in "Lake Hute?" or was it originally all one word with a different meaning? I study and research a lot of French-Canadian records from the 1600s-1700s and am always curious about names with bad-French (as described by my French grandmother).
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2 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
Um, what's wrong with that? In fact that's what we're all doing isn't it?
No, it is not. Many of us have given specifics - like make and model #s. Not just blanket statements like "Chinese."
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13 minutes ago, Totem said:
and yet no one is left claiming the eu2000i is well suited to run rooftop AC (11,000 - 13500) and whole house RV in high heat, elevation, for up to 8 hours a session anymore... agreed?
jde agree?
I have never, ever - recommended to anyone that a 1600 watt Honda 2000i be used with any air-conditioner unit. I see it as spending big bucks and asking for problems at the same time. If someone DOES want to try it and try to live with such a setup with tweaks - makes no difference to me. Just not something I would ever do, nor would I ever recommend it. Makes no sense from a technical viewpoint. Any air-conditioner on the market can demand 6000-7000 watts at first start for a few fractions of a second. Not something I'd try to do reliably with a Honda 1600 watt generator that can maybe spike to 4000-5000 watts for a few milliseconds? My Honeywell 2000i makes a lot more sense, and the Harbor Freight Predator 2500 is likely one of the best inverter-generator bargains on the market. I will also note that HF if pretty good about standing behind their products. In fact I just had my Chinese chain-saw chain sharpener burn up and it was one month out of warranty; I called HF and they said no parts are available and the Chinese company that made the machine is no longer around. But - they had a few new ones in old stock that they saved just to provide parts to people like me. In my case - they just sent me an entire new machine for free. No BS, no shipping charges, etc. Great people to deal with. The sharpener is crap I admit and the new one will likely die early too. But I do not blame that on them. They gave me great product support. I would have no fear of buying a Predator 2500 inverter generator and I know would back it up with good service. In fact, I am tempted to buy one even though I have no real need for it (I have MANY generators already). But in today's market - I kind of hate to miss the chance to get one at current prices and lose the chance later.
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12 hours ago, mtdave2 said:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z7NXMWS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
in case you are wondering what cable carrier i used. I did have to extend the size of the piece that fits in the hole, was a bit too small for my liking.
They are OK if you don't drive on a lot of salt and check them now and then. I have come across many a car with a cable-winch and the spare fell out without the owner ever realizing it. Not until the spare was needed and it was discovered it was long gone. That because the cable rusted and broke. Perhaps not a big issue on a RV that does not see a lot of salt? Here in northern Michigan, many roads are salted all summer long so it is hard to avoid. At least the OEM Toyota winch used a chain instead of a cable. By the way, I am also a proud victim of a lost spare on my Chevy S10. I put a new winch on it when I got it and figured I was safe. 5-6 years later - I got a flat and then found no spare. Just a frayed, rusted, broken cable.
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5 minutes ago, Maineah said:
I have Chinese generator I would not call it trouble free, quiet etc. I have a Honda that runs the house that is a different story I have also used it for construction projects it is flawless the Chinese one is not. You truly get what you pay for in all respects That is why if I had a need for a small generator I would spend the money.
You are citing one person's experience with one specific Chinese generator. That pretty much proves nothing on the broad spectrum of things. I bought my Chinese Honeywell 2000i inverter generator at a Home Depot parking-lot sale maybe 8 years ago? I've used the heck out of it and it has worked flawlessly. I paid around $400 for it (can't recall the exact figure). My only regret is I wish I'd bought more of them at the time when they were available so cheap. Sure beats any Honda for actual use per dollar. It also makes more power then a Honda 2000i.
I remember hearing the same warnings about "cheap Japanese junk" in the late 50s, early 60s. Seems that was not entirely true either.
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17 minutes ago, Maineah said:
That may have been 20 years or more ago I matched them up from a Raybestos book, size and pictures I kind of remember Ford pickup what ever they are out there for a domestic car/truck also so they should not be hard to find.
I likely have the same Raybestos picture book. NAPA used to print them out every year for dealers. I have stacks of them and that's what I'm going by with my comments. I went back as far as 1955 for all Ford trucks and 11" is the smallest I found for a F100. F250 is 12", etc. Ford Ranger is the only one I see with 10" brakes but maybe I'm missing something. My oldest book goes back to 1939. A 1939 Ford F1 truck uses Raybestos 228PG shoes in front (11" X 2") and Raybestos 55PG in back (11" X 1.75").
Ford DID use some 10" brakes in 1/2 ton vans. Pretty much the same brakes as were used in 60s Ford Mustangs. 10" X 1 3/4". Toyota is 10" X 2 3/16" so maybe they could be made to fit, but with less surface area.
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19 hours ago, jjrbus said:
I would like to know who the people are who we have had team up two of them in here and still not get them to run successfully. I have never heard of anyone that could not run any RV roof air on 2 Honda's
There is a RV rental fleet operator here in Florida using Honda EU2000i generators to run Advent 13.5k BTU roof airs. So I can't admit that.
I did a bit of due diligence before I bought the new Honda and your Predator in testing consistently peaks at 1900 watts, not its 2200 "rated" watts. Must be the Chinese watts are smaller than US watts? Jim
I have an ETQ IN1800 (chinese) inverter generator rated at 1600 watts continuous and 1800 watts surge. I have tested it and it can only handle a 1500 watts surge and around 1200 watts continuous. So in that case, the Chinese watts certainly seem different then our "James Watt" numbers. Maybe from the "Wang Hung Lo Watt" scale.
To be fair though, my Honeywell 2000i (also chinese) is an inverter generator ratged for 2000 watts continuous and 2200 watts surge. I have tested it to 2500 watts surge and tested it at 2200 hundred watts for at least 30 seconds and it held up. So in this case, the Chinese watt exceeds James Watt.
One key to ratings is the time frame. If an exact time-frame is not given, many figures are meaningless except for "continuous." It is likely any 4-6 horsepower generator can surge to 8000 watts but only for a fraction of a second that is useless in the real-world. Yet - I guess you could advertise it as a 4000 watt "surge" generator and not be totally wrong.
Sad thing is -few generators today give true specs. For example, here are the specs for a 5 horse, 2400 watt generator I have that is 40 years old. Note how specific they are.
2400 watts-continuous rating at 73 degrees F. If it gets hotter, rating is lowered.
4200 watts for 5 seconds.
6600 watts for 100 milliseconds.
9240 watts for 1 millisecond.
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40 minutes ago, Maineah said:
I kind of remember using Ford pickup brake shoes on a Toyota one ton rear years ago just matched them up at the parts store at the time they had no listing for a Toyota one ton.
I don't think any Ford full-size truck ever used 10" brakes like the Toyota dually. None that I can think of. Ford F100 was 11" and up. Ford Ranger did have 10" brakes but much narrower then the Toyota brakes shoes. So I assume Ranger shoes might be made to fit but not have the proper surface area.
Note that the same brake shoes for a Toyota dually are also used on some Volkswagen busses. The air-cooled ones from the 60s and 70s. The VW part # even crosses over to a Toyota #.
Also on a Nissan D21 truck, and also on a mid-80s Merkur car.Also -on the subject of Ford, the brake shoes used in a 60s Mustang are very close in size.
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7 minutes ago, Todd Lambiotte said:
I had run into this before on front brakes but didn't think there were any rubber lines on the rear
There HAS to be. If the rear-axle moves up and down, something has to flex.
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9 hours ago, WME said:
Very weird and very rare, the bias valve is sticking. Even weirder the short rubber hose that between the valve and axle has damage inside and is acting as sort of a one way valve
My 1995 Chevy Astrovan did the same thing. I worked over 40 years as a mechanic and it was the first time I saw such a thing happen. Flexible rubber hoses to both front brake calipers got deteriorated internally so they acted like one-way check-valves.
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On 8/14/2016 at 10:25 PM, linda s said:
But apparently none of these fridges have that part you needed but Dometic couldn't supply. Strange
Linda S
I almost forgot to ask, Linda. What exactly is your underlying motivation with such a statement? Is this a passive-aggressive attempt to claim I have no spare refrigerators? Or is it you do not believe I need a part not available from Dometic?
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7 hours ago, linda s said:
All of them work on 110 that I know of. I can't see how hot from 110 would be any different than hot from propane
Linda S
I did not read back though all text of the posts. I am missing the part where 120 volts AC versus propane was part of the discussion. So maybe I am being redundant here. But . there certainly can be a difference. Heat from propane comes from the bottom and heat from 120 volts AC or 12 volts DC comes from the side of the upper chimney. One can possible make less heat then the other via a weak electric resistive heating unit or it just making poor contact with the chimney. Now if someone actually measures how hot the chimney is - and it is the same either way - then, in that circumstance, it should make no difference.
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On 8/14/2016 at 10:25 PM, linda s said:
But apparently none of these fridges have that part you needed but Dometic couldn't supply. Strange
Linda S
No, not strange at all. None of the Dometics I have, have the part I need. Not all Dometic refrigerators are the same in back. Not all use that locking mechanism in the chimney. That being said, I'm not going to rob a part off a good working refrigerator to stick on another.
Getting ready to sell our toy!
in General Discussion
Posted
My F250 diesel developed a sort of odd vibration when I downshifted under load and then started kind of making a "hum" when the engine was idling in neutral. Drove it that way for quite awhile and then - it just stopped when pulling away from a stop-sign. Just like it had popped into neutral. At first I thought the driveshaft fell off - or transfercase was in neutral - so I stuck it into 4WD and still no go. No noise, no leaks, just no go. Towed it home and stuck gauges in the trans and all pressures were perfect. Finally pulled it all apart and I found a solid-steel shaft inside the transmission that had literally just snapped into two pieces. All I can figure is - it had stress cracks for a long time and started to oscillate and finally just let go. Kind of strange. Now? $2000 in HD parts later and I have a new problem that I guess I am going to learn to live with. Once in awhile - only when the truck is first started in the morning and maybe driven less then a mile - I come to a red light or stop sign and NO stop; That is - the torque-converter stays locked. It shook me up the first time it happened. Truck was cold enough the engine was at fast-idle and even with me standing on the brake pedal - it almost pushed me through a red-light until I just turned the key off. When I restarted it was fine. Still does it once in awhile but now I am ready to just shift to neutral if it sticks. Note it has a brand new OEM solenoid pack, along with a new torque-converter, so who the heck knows?
Here are some photos of the shaft that broke.