zero
-
Posts
6,041 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by zero
-
-
Any draw on the battery without recharging will kill it, and eventually ruin it. In most setups - the power-converter needs to be "off" when you park the rig. Also, the charging system has to be working and is supposed charge both batteries - the cranking battery for the engine and the "house" battery that runs your camper-coach.
-
Fred - maybe a little off-topic - but do you realize you have a "sexy" motorhome?
-
Seems to be no shortage of boosters around. Like I said earlier, I don't recall ever finding a bad booster on a Toyota truck. Either your's holds a vacuum or it does not. Pretty easy to test. If you had brake fluid leaking into it, and the booster was bad, your engine would of been smoking like crazy from burning brake fluid. That used to be a common problem in 60s British cars with Girling brake systems.
-
29 minutes ago, fred heath said:
I use the 30A circuit breaker. It works fine.
Yes, but you only have a 45 amp alternator (unless you've upgraded). The poster here should have a 60 amp alternator. A 60 amp alternator can send 60 amps of current down any wire it is hooked to, when called for. Pretty simple match. 60 amps will blow a 30 amp fuse; Now - some isolators max out and will blow before passing 60 amps. I have no idea what model isolator the poster had, nor do I know what you have.
-
20 minutes ago, BobBeery said:
I found a 30A fuse in the wire from the engine battery to the isolator. This fuse is blown which explains why the house battery did not charge when I was driving.
The question is why did it blow? What would have caused it? I have only had this Toy for a few weeks. Note--the isolator is bright shiny metal and looks brand new.
I will put in a new fuse as soon as I get one, today or tomorrow.
I don't know what happened, but I do know this. You have a 50 or 60 amp alternator. How in heck can a 30 amp fuse handle amperage like that? The alternator has no way of "knowing" you only have a 30 amp fuse in the line. If voltage is low in the "house" battery - it can run full charge to try to charge the battery and can easily exceed 30 amps. I have a 80 amp fuse on my charge-wire to the back. Note - do NOT increase the fuse size if you only have 10 gauge wire. Fuse size much match the wire-size or you create a fire hazard.
If you DO only have 10 gauge wire - get rid of the fuse and put in a self-resetting 30 amp circuit breaker. It cost less then $10.
-
Here are some photos of my 1988 along with one of a 1985.
-
8 hours ago, jjrbus said:
Good idea, if the pump does come on with the jumper could I drive like that?
Maybe someone will correct me here. As I recall, that setup uses a constant-run fuel-pump that just dumps excess fuel out the pressure-regulator. My memory might be off but I think that is how it works. I.e., no cycling. If I am correct, then driving with a jumper ought to be fine. By the way - it might be worth your while to call Rock Auto and find out where their nearest fuel pump is in stock. They have warehouses all over the country. I sometimes get parts from them in one day. The mark-up at some of these franchise auto-parts stores is amazing and kind of depressing.
-
OK, I found the info on my old computer. The OEM Keeler lock used on Toyota Chinooks was first replaced with a Bargman L300, by Airstream. Those kits are no longer available - except used on Ebay or maybe old-stock somewhere. The Bargman L300 then got replaced with a Trimark # 33677-01-K and THAT is still available new. I suggest you hunt up a new Trimark on Ebay. I got one new for $30 a while back.
-
8 hours ago, Baseball Dad said:
I have a dead bolt but the lock to the camper is broken .I was wondering what lock has anybody got to replace the old lock?I was looking at
RV Designer T507 RV Motorhome Entry Lock with Deadbolt
The original lock-set is a Keeler and the same exact lock assembly was also used in 1977-78 Airstreams. Airstream sells an adapter kit to retrofit a newer type lock that works fine in a Chinook. I posed the info and Airstream part #s here before. I can't recall where they are on my own hard-drive right now.
-
$150 for a $30 Airtex pump is a rip-off. Thus why I try to pre-buy parts when possible.
-
Rock Auto has the one for $14. I would think some of those Mormons have lots to do. Especially those with a bunch of extra wives.
My code book says . . .
25: AIR/FUEL RATIO LEAN INDICATOR--LEAN SIGNAL SENT TO ECU FROM O2 SENSOR
--INJECTOR FAULT(S)
--FUEL PRESSURE
--OXYGEN SENSOR
--AIRFLOW METER OR MAP SENSOR
--IGNITION
--ECU -
Note that code 25 for "lean fuel" also includes "no fuel." My 1995 Chevy Astrovan had a fuel-pump get so I had to kick the gas tank to get the engine started. Once running though, it seemed ok. I didn't not run it long that way and put a new fuel-pump in a few days later. Since nearly every vehicle I own has an electric pump - (not my Ford or Isuzu diesels), I always put a new one in when I buy a vehicle. I put one in my 1988 Toyota Minicruiser and also in my 1978 Toyota Chinook. Just not something I want to take a chance on since a new pump is pretty cheap when not replaced in an emergency. I also carry a spare new pump in both although I've never had one fail yet. Brand new fuel pump is only $14. I call it very cheap insurance.
By the way - a new fuel pump for my 2008 Suzuki SUV is $1100. I was going to buy a spare before they are no longer available - but NOT for that kind of money! Suzuki no longer exists in the USA and parts have gone nuts. They are also now considered "obsolete" by many sellers and disappearing fast. I called a junkyard and got a used one for $50 and that still seems like a rip-off. But it makes me feel better to have it. Thank the great powers that be that a new fuel pump for a 20-30 year old Toyota can be had for $14. Yet, for my 8 year old Suzuki XL7, it is $1100 and there are very few around to be had.
-
1 hour ago, jjrbus said:
93 Toyota V6 auto 100,000 mile. Driving along about 60 MPH and starting up a hill the Toy stalls and will not restart. No prior symptoms This is Hells canyon WY, no internet, no cell phone. A good Samaritan stops, declares it is the fuel pump and suggests banging on tank, it works, it starts!
I have check engine light, code 25
. Jim
Sounds like a bad fuel-pump to me except it is odd that it quit while you were driving. Usually weak pumps get problems getting started after they've been off for awhile. Kind of unusual to quit while running down the road. Regardless, banging on anything electrical and getting it to work means bad contacts somewhere. In the wire-harness or inside the fuel-pump motor. If it was mine, I wouldn't be driving anywhere without a spare new pump anyway. One of those items I don't trust and can leave me dead-on-the-road somewhere. Ocam's Razor dictates it's a mechanical problem and not electric. I.e. bad contact somewhere. Most likely worn brushes inside the pump-motor. If it was in a winter-salt area - I'd be thinking harness connections too.
-
I think any of them are worth parting out if the price is right. Just keep in mind that motorhomes are hard to scrap. I've never come across a scrap-metal place that would take one unless you paid by the pound to get rid of it. Too much non-metal, water-soaked parts. I know a guy that goes around charging to scrap RVs and he gets around $500 to take one from your property and "dispose" of it. He takes them home. Strips them, and then pours kerosene all over and burns them up. Then loads what is left on a trailer and then the scrap-yard actually pays a little for it. NOT much. I just scrapped a 4 ton RV last week and got a whopping $72 for it. Scrap metal prices are awful right now.
I just bought a 1978 high-roof Toyota motorhome for $200. I have no idea what it is. I do know it is NOT a Dolphin. Has a style I have never seen before. I was riding around in one the older parts of a local junkyard and saw it in the bushes. Has hornet nests in it so I did not get real close. The guy who owns the junkyard says he never buys foreign "junk" but this one was driven into his place and given to him for free. So he parked it in the woods maybe 20 years ago and never touched it since. I looked at a distance and see no rust. Seems just the truck part is worth $300 for the metal parts if clean. Whatever it is, it's mine. I just have to find time to go back there before winter with a load of tools and a lot of hornet spray.
-
My Dodge truck holds 85 gallons of diesel and gets 19-20 MPG. It certainly still gets empty now and then and I feel like I need to take out a bank load to fill it. Seems a high-roof Toyota, getting 14 MPG, with a 20 gallon tank is certainly nice to have but still gets empty pretty quick. My 1978 Toyota Chinook has around 30 gallons capacity and gets 19-20 MPG. Needle on the gauge still moves quick enough.
-
8 minutes ago, linda s said:
Somehow your Toyota part number went in wrong at Oreilly. Looks like 47207 instead of 47201.
Linda S
Yes. That's what I get when I don't wear glasses.
-
Here is a 1980 Dolphin and a 1979 EZ Ryder. There were others.
-
The master-cylinder that comes up when I do an OEM cross-reference at Orielly has a 7/8" bore that is incorrect. Note though it also says the part "may" be incorrect.
NAPA comes up correct. So does Rock Auto.
Also note that in 1983, there was no full-floating rear with the bigger brakes in back. I thought that might effect the choice of master-cylinder. Seems not. The later trucks that came OEM with a full-floating dually also have the 15/16" bore master-cylinder.
-
Just curious - why do you need a replacement booster? Is your's stuck? I've never seen one go bad on a Toyota (yet);
-
The terms "3/4 ton" or "1 ton" are useless. You need a brake-booster for a 83 Toyota with a model-code RN44L-KDA3W. Toyota OEM master-cylinder is # 47201-35270. Cardone # is 132248. Dorman # is M39658.
I used Orielly's parts interchange and their database comes up with the wrong master-cylinder (NMC1894). It only has a 7/8" bore. NAPA comes up with the correct cylinder with their interchange - part # NMC2799.
We do not have any Orielly's here yet, but there is a new one being built. I will say I've had to use the twice when travelling, and their parts interchange is awful.
-
Here is what Chinook shows in their parts book for 1976
-
Brakes should not be a "normal" issue if the trailer has its own brakes. I say "normal" since you don't want to die in a crash if the trailer-brakes fail. It almost happened to me pulling a 12K lb. trailer down a long hill with my diesel Ford F250. Lost my trailer-brakes and had to rely on the truck brakes and transmission holding me back. By the time I got to the bottom of the hill - brakes were glazed and non-functional. When I jammed the truck into low gear the rear tires just skidded. It was a 4WD but my front hubs were not locked. Otherwise I could of put it into 4WD and let the trans hold me back.
Tongue-weight is what I regard as the major issue for a Toyota RV pulling a trailer - unless we are talking about a little Toyota Chinook. The Chinook allows a max of 150 lbs. on the tongue and a max of 1000 lbs. for a trailer.
-
You got me curious. I've stripped and scrapped a couple of 75,76, and 77 Chinooks and never saw anything like you describe. How do you know it was OEM? It's not a screen-door rocker latch like this, is it?
-
1 hour ago, bicoastal eric said:
do you have the 6 lug rear end?
if so, a jetski or small aluminum boat is fine, especially if your not going over the rockies.
The pulling capacity of a 6 lug dually differential is no different then a 5 lug semi-floater.
Blown fuse to isolator
in Electrical
Posted
Yes, here is the entire article.