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aptruncata

Toyota Advanced Member
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Everything posted by aptruncata

  1. @yababy, is it dangerous to use these? How much do used horizontal tanks run? and where would i find them? Currently, they are hooked up to the stove and seems to be working great. In the event the regulator and the tanks pose no safety risk, will it be a bad idea to just keep using them? Will i have trouble refilling them?
  2. I haven't removed the tanks so i don't know what they look like on the bottom. Basically, it appears to be two tanks laid on their sides with a metal bar both on the bottom and top held with a wingnut to keep them from moving. i've looked under the sofa to see if i am able to access the igniting area with a bic lighter but there is no peep hole or any kind of space to reach into. the grey metal box (furnace) has just the name (suburban) imprint on it and a duct running from it. I'll get the pic on this one as well.
  3. @derek, can you give this greenhorn some pointers on how to differentiate between the two?
  4. @Waiter, Stove works as prescribed. I've noticed the furnace is under the sofa in a rectangular metal box. Where should i expect to see the spark? yes i have two propane tanks that are laid on their sides (valves pointing towards the outside of the vehicle) and not sitting upright. is this unusual and dangerous? Thanks
  5. Hello there, I know nothing about how the furnace works on the toy, previous rv unit were all rentals and latest models so never really had to trouble shoot anything. With that said, when i turn the temp up i can hear the blower start and few seconds later hear the igniter run for about 4-5 seconds and still the air is cold. I've noticed i have 2 propane tanks that are sitting horizontally, both of which i have turned on and made sure to use the gas range to have propane in the lines. -one tank appears to have propane and another appears to be empty, does the furnace and range use a different line/tanks? -the igniter sound is so very faint i can barely hear it, can the igniter be an issue? is it replaceable? -there appears to be a "regulator" sort of thing sitting between the two propane tanks which looks very aged, what does it do and what would necessitate a replacement? Thanks in advance.
  6. Good Morning all, I wanted to give you folks an update on the truck. -the tank has been removed, sand blasted and coated inside with new coating. the non-functional electrical fuel pump has been removed, sending unit screen has been replaced along with the worn out tube. the tank is huge and appears to be about 30 gallons. -the fuel filter was replaced. -the fuel pump was replaced. -the carb was rebuilt and adjusted. RESULT: this engine revs freely through the rpm range and idles so very nicely. I want to thank all of you for your guidance and pointers that helped me diagnose the issue. Every other day i'm driving it as much as possible to make sure there are no other kinks before our maiden voyage on next weekend. My boss (wife) is ecstatic. Thanks again.
  7. @Derek Assuming the electronic pump was on there all this time without being hooked up to any source of power, can a mechanical pump in the engine bay draw fuel through the dud without a problem? I would think if it's a dud, it wouldn't let anything through.
  8. @stamar, that sounds like the general consensus. -The tank has been dropped and found to be rusty inside, it's sent out to be blasted and recoated. -New fuel filter (toyota) has been installed -New mechanical fuel pump (toyota) has been installed -Carb is getting a through cleaning, rebuilding and adjusting. one thing that puzzles me is the fact that the mechanic who is working on it says he found a secondary electronic fuel pump in the tank which was not working. Any guesses? I'm crossing my fingers that this will take care of the bogging issue.....i really hope it works and its not a blown head gasket. recap: previous owner replaced thermostat, radiator and cat. There may be a possibility that previously the cat broke loose blocking the manifold which could have raised the temp enough to overheat the engine....which explains the replacements of the thermostat and radiator.....but that's all just speculation for now. I appreciate all the help and input.
  9. oh great! I'm 5'10" and weigh 170. Thanks for the response.
  10. i know i shouldn't be up there unless it's necessary, but will the roof support my weight? i'd like to get up there one day and scrub off some of the gunk. i have have 21' sunrader. thank you
  11. @haffcke, yes i've considered it and the previous owner has put in a "oem" cat for $180 last year as the receipts show. but while there are so many things that can lead to this bog down since i know the fuel is dirty (as witnessed black ink from the filter), i thought it'd be a good place to start the process of elimination. After flushing the tank, replacing necessary lines, filter and pump, next will be the carb rebuild and after that....i hope at least i won't have driving issues.
  12. Purchased factory fuel pump and fuel filter. Will drain tank, new filter and pump and will report. Manual says to remove the upper radiator hose before getting to the fuel pump but is it necessary? it seems doable without removal. @uthorns, that seems to be what i'm experiencing..
  13. Okay so the general consensus is to get rid of the gas. the fuel in the fuel filter was blacker than black ink so expecting some dirty gas in there. questions: should i just empty and refill with fresh gas or drop and clean and reinstall or get a new tank? and if the bogging still persists after 10+ miles of driving.....replace the fuel pump? How about i just get a new tank, fuel lines, filter, pump and rebuild the carbs? this way i can take fuel and carb issue out of the equation.
  14. @yababy, I'll take a looksy to look for a plug. Is it a screw type? or a standard bottle cap type? I don't know where the fuel pump is on this unit, it's a 84 22r 4 speed stick. what would involve flushing the fuel system? new tank? or just clean? change all fuel lines, filter and pump and rebuild the carb?
  15. @waiter, i purchased the truck with 1/2 tank of gas which the previous owner said has been sitting in southern california weather for about a year. @tumolt, i suspected the same and thought it would be best to at least start with clean fuel so i can pinpoint what's wrong. I first thought it was heat related since the vehicle was semi-driveable after 10-15 min cooldown. So i thought it was possibly a cheap cat they put in or a bad o2 sensor.....but now that i think about it.....the tank was nearing empty while i was on my way to the mechanics shop. Does bad fuel have crud on the bottom? On my way back i assumed everything was repaired and filled up with $50 worth of regular gas. is that batch now ruined? @karincorbin, i've replaced the fuel filter. The mechanic took out a metal one which poured out black ink (literally). -how difficult is it to drop the tank and replace all the fuel lines? should i replace the pump as well? Thanks in advance.
  16. Hello just to give you an idea what has gone on so far..... purchased on saturday, drove home 25 miles without an issue. -previous owner rebuilt carb, adjusted timing, replaced O2 sensor, replaced cat, new radiator, new waterpump, oil change. -sunday night; changed plugs which were greyish with ngk @0.32 spec, replaced plug wires, replaced air filter. -Monday: went for smog, failed, gross polluter and bad gas cap -drove the truck to smog + repair place....on the frwy felt bogging down on 4th gear under acceleration at about 45-50mph. felt like a loss of power, bucking back and forward, shifted to third went away. back to fourth gear and felt it again...downshifted to third and now bogging in third. off the fwry and got to repair station. -repair station put the timing back to 5 degree (to spec) from 12 degree, told them about the bogging, they changed out the fuel filter which was pouring out (black ink) gas. -on the way home, everything is fine local for about 20 mins, but after 40 mph on 3rd, i can feel the bogging coming back, got on the freeway in hopes of getting it home asap, bogged completely, bucking wild, shifted to second, same thing...now cruising at 25 mph on fwy, dodging 16 wheelers, pulled over safely about 100 yards from exit, once the traffic cleared, made the run for it first and second....while bogging managed to get off, pulled over. -decided to take it slow, locally...now the vehicle is idling rough and about the stall. While going up 5% grade on first, it bogged and died. -waited 10 mins to cool, drove better but still bogged on 3rd and 4th if i gassed it. -what was a 10 min drive home turned out to be an hour long headache. Tuesday morning: rough idle but warmed up okay, passed smog and parked it. I've realized very quickly how nobody wants to deal with a carbureted vehicle. Dirty gas? Fuel line? Fuel Pressure? Fuel pump? Carburetor rebuild again? (because of bad gas?) empty the tanks and start over? bad O2? is the cat shot? distributor? rotor? plugs gapped too close? wires bad? timing chain? Anything and everything will be appreciated. Wife is so mad at me she won't talk to me about this purchase and i'm totally lost. Richard
  17. this unit have the updated axle. still trying to figure out whats with the idle
  18. Hello, As the title says, me and the wife were on the fence for a while and over the weekend we finally picked one up. 1984 sunrader 21' with 139k miles. It's rough on cold starts up after warmup, that 22R still purrs. Just wanted to say hello and will need all the resources we can get to get his baby weather and road worthy. Richard
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