aptruncata

I have a roof sag syndrome which will need to be address next summer. I didn't know those big econolines got 6-8 mpg...i was thinking more along the lines of 12mpg which isn't too bad if it could back it up with some power up the hills, but i guess not.

Hello folks, I would like to know what your reasons were for purchasing toy vs. any other rv and size? For me lot of it was financial; reliability, ease of repair, availability of parts, value and my needs (wife and two dogs)....i also considered mpg but if i had a choice, i'd trade off the mpg for more power. These reasons were obvious enough for me to pick the toy over...say a 26ft tiagoa but what's yours? btw....before i purchased one, i've reads somewhere sunrader's were leak proof....but found out that was far from the truth.

I would like to know how many member on this forum have their timing set at 5 deg btdc as service manual says vs how many have advanced or retarded them and to how many deg. I understand this topic has been discussed in the past however it didn't really say much about how many of us are content with 5 deg vs various degrees of advance. I ask because i have a 84 22r carb. that at the time of purchase had 13 deg. advance. it felt great and satisfactory at the time but ever since i've put it back to 5 deg. to pass smog....it really feels noticeably weaker climbing even the slightest hills. it sometimes slows down (down to 35-40mph) at times on the fwys.

don't know why i have not noticed this before but last night i found this hanging from the rear driverside near the sewer valves. it appears the blub is long gone and the plastic recepticle is gone as well. i've had the urge to pop in another 15amp fuse and waddaya know....the clearance lights light up now with exception of the one thats hanging. I don't think this was the culprit because it's hanging in mid-air, i can't imagine how this would cause a deadshort on the freeway.

i'm just about to have my very own short circuit. lol. will do and report back.

i have not touched any of the electrical wiring or installed anything with screws to disturb the circuit. it may have been an issue before i purchased it but never noticed because this is the first time driving at night. I will check visually to see if any of the lines have been pinched cut.

mine is an 84. if the water seeping into the lights be it rear brake or clearance lights....is there a way to prevent this? are there any fully sealed ones? I had to drive nearly 3 hours at night with my emergency signals just so i don't get pulled over.

I have a 22R 4sp. i'm replacing: clutch disk, pilot bearing, throwout bearing, cover and slave cylinder. Thanks for all the great insight, will be back to report.

Hello folks, We were all packed up friday night 10miles into the drive on the fwy on a rainy night and after hitting a large bump on the fwy, dash, tail and the clearance bulbs blacked out. I've replaced this about an hour before heading out for the same reason. There is one 15amp fuse that links them and having purchased a pack of 10- 15amp fuses i was relieved. Pulled off the fwy parked under a bridge and checked that the fuse was blown. As soon as i put in a new one, it sparked and blew that one as well....along with 8 other reserves. Has anyone experienced similar scenarios? Could it be caused by the water soaked clearance lights? long story short....we used the emergency signals to drive 3 hours to our destination.

@Maineah Which other brands have you tried and what problems did you encounter and how many toyota clutches have you gone through/miles?

I'm planning on using what i have, two rhino ramps, three jack stands, 2 3-ton floor jacks and 1-ton floor jack. I just hope i can raise it enough off the ground to get it out of the way. Thanks for your input on oem vs others. I'll try the aisins and see how it goes. I can use a floor jack to lift the tranny back in. -do you think it's a good time to change the main seals while i'm down there? -any trade secrets to pull pilot bearing? (besides the puller) -do you think it's possible to lift only the front and tackle it? i think my jacks max out at about 23" off the ground.

I've driven stick vehicles for the last 15 years and am competent at driving them. I'm noticing that my clutch on the toy is grabbing near the very top before release. I would say it's grabbing at about the last two- 2 1/2" before the peddle is completely released. i'm planning on bleeding the slave to see if it make a difference and if not will replace the clutch. I'm torn between aftermarket and dealer parts can anyone guide me in the right direction? I plan on driving this unit for a while. Does anyone have actual experience in dropping the tranny on these and doing the clutch jobs themselves? if so any pointers? btw. dealer wants $235 for the clutch kit and i've seen them for nearly half the price for generic. Thanks again.

@Maineah, I've purchased this vehicle with quite a few modifications in the interior as well as the electricals. I currently have a toggle switch near the steering wheel with a ground that is taped up and hanging. I don't know what the switch is for other than the fact that i know it's somehow connected to the main control panel. However switching the toggle on or off seems to do nothing that is noticeable to me. The mysterious pump has been caught turning on on its own from time to time so i know it's good and it is connected to the non-lighting main control panel "pump switch" because when i turned it off, it stopped. When i checked the pump visually, i only expected one red (positive wire) and one ground but noticed three red wires running to different parts of the pump and couldn't verify the ground. After looking at the shurflo circuit layout online.....what i have seems to me a whole lot compicated than what it's supposed to be. So i thought rather than go through the mess in trying to figure out an open circuit somewhere, what's belongs there and not....why not just gut the useless wires and go direct with the power source with a fuse and a switch?

i was just about to ask about a get together....but that's wayy to far for me. =)

thanks for sharing your ideas and experiences this place is full of info!!

Understood. Everything 12V goes through the panel first. -Can't i just wire the pump directly to the house battery using a inline fuse and a separate toggle switch? Afterall, if the house battery doesn't have enough juice, the pump won't work. -has anyone replaced their stock converters? I would really like it to charge the house battery when i'm hooked up to on shore power.

wait, i'm confused. isn't the "converter" the panel located under the sink with a metal cover with fuses inside? ( i have a rear kitchen)

fridge works, roof top air cond. blows ice cold, all the outlets work. Few questions please.. -if the pump is strictly 12v; what does it have to do with the converter? Shouldn't it be just wired to the house battery with a fuse and a switch? -if i rewire the pump, would it be a bad idea to wire it without going through the converter? I would like to keep things simple and functional.

You're probably right on this one. I accidentally left the switch on "ON" position and drove about an hour. When i stopped by at a mall, waddayaknow? the pump was working....but there was no water in the tank so it just turning and turning. Afraid of possible burnout, i switched it "OFF". Assuming the pump was good and that once i'm plugged into AC it should work; but it didn't. i think i should just rewire from the beginning. Does anyone have a circuit diagram for the waterpump the way "it's supoosed to be" connected?

Thanks John. I've read good things about sharkbite fittings, do you have any experience with them or recommend a brand? btw...i don't want to purchase expensive crimp tools.

So we took our rig out for our maiden voyage and had a wonderful time. I've noticed the following things: -water pump is good but faulty and will not respond to the switch on the control panel. -water hose was connected with a brass pressure regulator to the city water inlet and noticed a bit of leak from the inlet connector. -faucets, toilets sink all work with water connected (without the pump functioning) -noticed a leak under the sink at a T- coupling on the pex piping. questions: -does the water pump need to be functioning in order for me to use water at the campsites? (seems to be working) -inlet connector appears like the original and could use a replacement, how difficult is it to replace? I've noticed the part itself is around $10. -Should i replace just the leaky couplings or redo the plumbing altogether? Anyone with experience? Thanks a bunch.

exact same unit here but 84 and no wheel covers...wow those things make a difference!

okay, i get it...DO NOT USE THE BBQ PROPANE TANKS. =) i will want to replace them with new with an automatic changeover regulator. If i get one tank for now, will the automatic changeover regulator work or will i HAVE to have two tanks connected. I ask because i like waiter's idea to eventually get two tanks in the future....just not now.

Thanks for the advice. I have one more question regarding the propane tanks. How long does a 20lb tank last if you cook three meals a day and 3-4 hours of heat at night? I live in southern California and most of my trips are in the eastern sierras with average of 3 days and maximum of 5-7 day stays.

$140 for one tank i suppose is not too much but getting two plus the accessories would near $400 that i didn't expect to spend. getting one and using a regular tank upright wouldn't be a bad idea....or not using them at all until i get to my destination is another course of option too. I suppose i'll just use the existing tanks until they are empty and meanwhile consider my options....which means the furnace will have to wait. Without a guage, it's hard to tell how much gas i've got in or there is there a way to tell? I don't bbq much (vegetarian) and don't own a gas grill, what would be the best way to discard these empty tanks when i'm done with them? thanks a bunch