shim 'n bucket
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Posts posted by shim 'n bucket
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Thanks for the valuable insight.
I don't suppose you have a record of the O-ring sizes so that those following in your footsteps can track them down before starting?
No.
The way the hydraulic shop matched them was with a proprietary manufacturers large 4 page plastic laminated 'catalog'. You selected the width (thickness) and then laid the O-ring on a full size image reproduced on the page. The O-ring numbers were sequential and didn't really relate to a size. Mine were 108 and 112, pretty meaningless.
Places like Ace Hardware list sizes but their selection is limited. These were odd ball, our local Case Tractor hydraulic shop had never stocked those sizes ever. It's best to take them in so they can be matched properly.
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Any tricks you learned doing this?
Oh boy, what a good question.
One must remove the drain unit from the floor itself. Seems Winnebago allowed the unlimited use of goo-puckey to plug the hole in the floor caused by the 1/2" drain hose. It was a pain to cut it all out with a box cutter. Shoulda taken pics, I know.....
There are 4 H2O connections at each drain that must be dis-connected. 8" cresent wrench was the best solution, with a channel lock pliers gripping the plumbing pipe to prevent it from twisting.
Once the drain unit was extracted from the flooring/plumbing system, remove the wire pull rings (using a vice and pliers) and push the plunger down through the drain unit to get at the O-rings.
Good luck finding them, of course they are obscure after 20 years.
After a couple of tries, I wound up at a full blown hydraulics shop to match these O-rings. Try a shop that specializes in tractor/earth moving equipment etc.
I spent the time to fix this issue because I got tired of leaking my fresh H2O onto the ground while camping. Water is so precious in the desert.
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Did you check under the sofa? Water tank and pump are usually located under the sofa and the drain valve is a pull type that usually has a ring in the end of it to grip when you pull up to drain. Hope this helps.
I have a '92 Itasca (Winnebago). This is where a pair of my drains is located (hot and cold), just aft of the pump itself. There is also another pair of drains located almost near the shower pan. You can access those drains from the door under the stove. They are located aft of the hot water tank.
I just replaced the O-rings (8 total) in all 4 of my drains.
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I hear ya but are you including the side mirror to side mirror OD when you say over 80" in width? If so, lots of vehicles are over 80" wide that aren't required to have clearance lights, like full size pickups and vans. I have a full size 1/2 ton Dodge van thats about 93" from side mirror to side mirror OD.
This is the Federal Reg concerning the definition of "width".
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Footnote—15(1) For the purposes of Section 393.11, the term “overall width” refers to the nominal design dimension of the widest part of the vehicle, exclusive of the signal lamps, marker lamps, outside rearview mirrors, flexible fender extensions, and mud flaps.
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From:
http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rules-regulations/administration/fmcsr/fmcsrruletext.aspx?reg=393.11
Apparently there has been some misinformation posted above about what defines "width".
Width includes only the motorhome portion of the vehicle, NOT including mirrors.
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The issue you are missing is clearance lights provide information to other drivers that your vehicle is over 80" in width. My thinking is you are increasing THEIR safety.
I installed Superbright LED clearance lights that are visable in daylight hours as well as high output LED parking lights that act as Daytime Running Lights. I spend a lot of time on narrow mountain roads and feel it is only fair to let other drivers know in advance of my over 80" width.
Goofy nanny-state laws aside, I know why I don't want clearance lights but maybe I'm missing something here in regards to safety. So can anyone convince me how a motorhome is safer with them? When some of you say you want even more lights... Why? Because a Toyota motorhome is unwieldy and the lights will make your vehicle seen from a greater distance so you can avoid having to make a sudden maneuver (and possibly rolling) trying to avoid a collision?
And what about having good reflectors up there?
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In the link I posted above, it details the test and adjustment procedure for the dash pot. Starts on page EG2-237.
I doubt the rubber boot has anything to do with your problem. It is just covering the shaft to keep dust, etc off the shaft itself.
A new dash pot is about $53 discounted, but you would have to adjust it when you installed the new one.
Might as well test and recalibrate your existing dash pot first, to see if your mechanic is correct, that it is out of adjustment.
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I have attached a picture of the part in question. It's the thing with the white, cylindrical piece on the right in this picture. Does anybody know the correct name of this module/part so I can try to find one. Thanks for any help. Wayne
I'll take a stab at it. Dash pot?
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/engine/93throttle.pdf
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I forgot to mention the other 91 Winne Warrior for sale -also with a V6 and 73K miles on it. Price is $5000. Too bad this one isn't a little closer to my fiend's house. If $4000 and it runs good I'd be tempted to buy it....
.....Had the roof re-built using 1" square steel beams--RV technician said I can square dance on the roof now (that would really be a sight!). After the roof was re-built, it still leaked a little around the roof-top air conditioner,
Buy it! JD.
Bad roof for $5K, what's the problem?
You can flip it for the big bucks.
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Just wanted to get some other opinions. I really miss my Toyhome but I don't want to be impatient and pay far too much for one. They have had the RV since last summer. I'm sure that the price is the only reason why it has not sold already.
I paid $13,000 for a '92 Winnebago Itasca, 68K miles. Coach and appliances were in excellent condition, not a speck of rust on the chassis. What was needed, over a period of years was tires, suspension and brake work, timing belt, valve adjust and steering gear box overhaul. As well as the usual routine maintenance.
My rig is pushing 100K miles now and runs like a top. I don't feel I overpaid. But 20 year old motorhomes will all require attention no matter what you pay for them.
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I'm not thinking of another trans. The Aisin A43D and A341E that Toyotas use have a stainless steel screen filter that is at the 75 micron level. I.e. it stops particles larger then .003". I stated previously the 80-100 was the average micronic level of filter used in modern transmissions. That 75 microns traps slightly smaller particles, not larger then what I stated. A 100 micron filter traps .004" particles. The Aisin 75 micron filter traps .003" particles.
I had no idea the stainless mesh was capable of filtering to 75 microns. Quite amazing.
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The trans filter is a bit more then a "screen"....
Not in a Toyota A340E tranny, which is what the OP is referring to in his '93 Itasca. The filter is actually an "oil strainer" (Toyota's term) and is a screen, (similar to screen door mesh) It is easily removable for cleaning.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/autotrans/24onvehicl.pdf
See step 4.
You must be thinking of another brand of transmission.
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How do I ignore certain users on this blog?
Starmar is getting tiring.
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Warning the IP address is Russian and if you click on any link it will be a virus.
This isn't the first time you have had to deal with virii on your site. It happens consistently. Passing virii to your users is irresponsible.
The Cure:
1. Shut your site down now.
2. Cease and desist doing business with GoDaddy.com.
3. Cease and desist using IP.Board Forum Software. They are totally incompetent with regards to internet security. This is actually THEIR problem to begin with.
If any of the above tough love solutions are not doable due to cost or labor considerations see #1.
Again. Passing virii to your users is irresponsible.
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The hub seal that does NOT seal the axle shaft OD is National # 226285 or SKF # 24635. 3.35" OD and 2.4" ID where it seals on the hub-stub.
That is correct. The "Oil Seal", depicted in SA127 seals diff oil from the greased bearings. Not the axle shaft gasket.
Please do not post your knowledege of Dana or whatevever american axles you choose to define.
This is a Toyota blog, do not apply your many years of 'Merican experience on an Asian blog. It simply does not apply.
Toyota has in it's infinite wisdom chosen a different path. If you choose to ignore it, we will choose to ignore you.
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I said staionary "stub", not "hub." The stationary stub is what the entire hub assembly rides on. The stub is stationary and the hub rotates along with the wheel. The end of the stub has a small seal at end diven into the ID of it. The end of the axle near the end-cap rides in that seal. All full-floating axles have stational stubs sticking out regardless of Toyota, Dana, Rockwell, etc. The one I have apart right now is from a 1986 dual wheel full-floating axle from a box-truck. VIN: RN75L-SDIEA3W 033L041G292A43D
Aaahaa! Got it. Thanks for that bit about hubs.
I did not know that the full floater was available in '86. I see the VIN shows it to be a 4.10 ratio. How do I cipher it's a 1-ton floater?
Thanks.
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I see it in the parts diagram now. The seal that presses into the stationary stub.
What manual are the parts diagrams you posted from? I'd like to get one.
Hmmm, don't know exactly what a stationary hub is. Are you sure you have a Toyota 1-ton axle assembly?
The late model Toyota manual is available online at:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/
I downloaded the entire thing a few years back. I'm glad to see it's still available online.
Another one you might enjoy:
Check out the Technical Section.
Happy Wrenchin'!
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Last time I looked (which was a year or so ago), the Service Schedule only specifically says to repack the front bearings @ 60k mile. Makes about as much sense as not allowing the diff oil to lubricate the bearing, of course!
About how long it's been since I looked up the Schedule, too. I guess I just assumed 60K for the back also. My bad.
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looking at my fsm now i see the inner seal only see a gasket behind axle flange on outside
Yes, this is correct. See above reply to 'jdemaris'.
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Where is the seal that actually rides on the axle and not the stationary stub? I can't find it.
The axle shaft is solid.
There is no "stub".
This axle shaft is driven directly by the differential. See the spline ends? When rebuilding/repacking the hub, one must use caution when re-inserting the axle into the axle tube so as not to disrupt the seal.
The "Oil Seal" in the drawing is the seal that prevents diff oil from entering the hub.
The gasket on the end of the axle flange is actually a dust seal. It keeps dust/dirt from entering the hub from the outside.
I think once you tear yours down you will see how this all works. Toyota recommends repacking the greased bearings every 60,000 miles.
I have had this discussion before with GM/Ford/Chrysler guys who absolutely cannot believe Toyota does this. But they do.
I've repacked a number of 1-ton axles.
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I check all my vehicles with "sealed" bearings every year -since I know they get no outside source of lube. A full floating axle not only has twice the bearings - it is also NOT sealed and can get lube from the gear oil reservoir in the center-housing of the rear-axle assembly. That is a big plus.
This is not entirely correct. The Full Floating Axle, commonly called the 1-ton axle used by our later model Toyota MH has an oil seal on the axle (to keep differential fluid from entering the wheel hub) and the two wheel bearings are lubricated with grease. Differential lube can enter the hub if the shaft seal fails but this is not what Toyota intended for bearing lubrication. If the shaft seal continues to leak, fluid can eventually enter the brake drum and negatively affect braking.
http://personal.utul...xle/34reara.pdf
Scroll down to page SA127.
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It seems to me that 99 percent of all of the auto leds for sale are white leds with colored lenses over them.
Link please.
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ok thats fine
show me 194 bulbs in red using red led elements. direct link
Here's your direct link:
A 194 automotive wedge bulb in whatever color you want, including RED!
Scroll down and you will find a chart with the various wavelengths and intensities of the LEDs in their various colors.
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Waiter is indeed correct.
The LEDs themselves produce different colors by varying the die and the wavelength of the LED.
From this link: http://autolumination.com/colors.htm
"The die is a small cube of semiconductor. The composition of the die determines the color of the light given off."
"LED colors are often specified in "nm", or nanometers, which is the wavelength of the light."
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My wife and I use the shower in our Itasca exclusively while we camp and travel in the Western states. The process is simple:
Always be on the look out for a place to take fresh water. Fire up the hot water heater while filling up.
Drive to a secluded (or not) location and take showers.
Either dump the grey water there, at your remote campsite or hold until you pass an RV dump station. It's up to you.
Before you leave the area, top off the fresh water again.
We have the entire process down to 1 hour.
It's a nice break during a day of driving.
YMMV.
Drain valve for water storage???
in Coach ApplianceTech Issues
Posted
OMG, those numbers do mean something.
I just thought of a quick and dirty way to confirm these sizes empirically.
Remove the wire pull ring from the top of the drain plunger and drive the plunger out the bottom of the coach, through the drain hose, onto the ground.
Whose up for it? I ain't pulling my drains apart again......LOL.