Back East Don
-
Posts
849 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Events
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by Back East Don
-
-
9 minutes ago, jjrbus said:
So I went 3 times, I was quickly rebuffed at the first place with Hey I only work here I can't change the prices, you will have to talk to the owner. 2nd time it was hinted I could find a $50 coupon or say that I lost it and they would print one for me. I am ethical and not a liar so I would not do that. Third time was the charm. Time and patience, some negotiating, I also do extremely well on new cars! Where, does not matter, just need to be in the right place at the right time.
I think the best way to understand this is to know how MAP works (minimum advertised pricing). A reseller has to tow the line as to not devalue the brand but the laws are well established that the manufacturers cannot dictate sell price. So for many brands, you will not find it advertised for less than the manufacturer allows. Doesn't mean you can't buy it for less and certainly doesn't mean you bought it off the back of a truck. The more you know, the less you pay.
-
1 hour ago, Totem said:
I gotta say, as a hack and novice in automotive mechanics,I can say its a godsend having jde and linda in these posts. They are the only ones that post part numbers cross references and real world "I get it" mentality even if they have arguments. And when I heed their advice its usually spot on (for parts.)
Thanks ya'll
Ditto
-
3 hours ago, jjrbus said:
Unlikely they kept it from when I hired out, nice still having access to Pleiades. Don't know what I would do without it
I carry my supercomputer in my pocket.
-
18 hours ago, Brynn&Cas said:
Bahaha! Thanks for the welcome Don! And yes, I can very much understand not wanting to get involved.
Brynn&Cas Please note: This is how you poke the bear. Doesn't take much.
-
1 hour ago, jjrbus said:
This one was soooo simple, surprised you guys did not think of it. The bolt heads are exposed on the inside, I simply loosened one of them. So now trying to remove or replace one nut takes 2 wrench's one on the inside and one on the outside.
Jim SW FL
So, NASA got your resume yet?
-
You guys really take this generator crap way too seriously.
Me, I bought a Yamaha for the house as we get lots of storms here and I got a hell of a good deal for the EF5500D from a motorcycle place that decided to carry them but in a year, never sold one. I know people who have all sorts of brands and I don't take it as an affront to my sensibilities.
Thing is, why should you care how I spent my money or why I should care how you spend yours? I only care about how I spend my money.
Same for what brand.
Give the information and let it go guys.
-
7 hours ago, Todd Lambiotte said:
can't we all just get along lol and figure out my brake problem
By now you must be so glad you asked. It's been slow and these guys haven't talked to each other in a while. So they are catching up.
Besides the E brake cable, there is only a small amount of things that are likely to be causing your brake problems. One was already pointed out. Gear Oil or brake fluid.
So question time. How deeply into this have you looked?
Is this an everyday driver for you? Do you have a place to work on it? Perhaps a good pair of jack stands? If the answer to these 3 questions are no, yes & yes, jack it up and take one side apart and have a look. If you at least open it up, the obvious will be revealed. It is probably not a bad idea to just do them over entirely so really the questions really are how do I take it apart and what parts do I order as that seems to be more of a mystery than actually fixing them. Once you get the drums off which is the mysterious part, the rest are like any other drum brake. Start looking through the full floater axle threads to find all the seals if you do find oil contamination. If the brake cylinder is leaking then you need to look those up.
So for parts. It might not be obvious but this forum is littered with brake posts with the same debate and the same part listings. If you have to purchase local, I suggest you take a look at all the jdemaris posts and part numbers and write them down along with the manufacturers and bring them to the parts store as they will likely be able to cross ref them and if they can't perhaps you are at the wrong parts store. I am fortunate in that I have an abundance of options for parts places and the competition is fierce so they will go out of there way to figure it out. They are not just competing with other locals but there is also online. I have had good luck with Amazon and Rock Auto. I will price them both out along with the local places and decide my best option. The rock auto web site is a great tool even if for just doing your own cross referencing.
Hope it all works out.
-
Brynn&Cas Now you see why I don't participate in these discussions. That and I don't carry a generator or have an AC. I live up north and camp by the cool ocean so my opinion really doesn't apply. Best of luck to you but you have at least saved yourself from buying an undersized genny. That we pretty much all agree on. Pretty much not much else from there.
Hey, welcome to the forum. One big happy dysfunctional family.
-
My job is done here. Consider this thread completely derailed. (You can thank me later.)
This one seems like it would do without the hydraulics but might be smallish for the Cherokee. Then there is the hydraulics vs winch system debate. Nothing is imminent so no point in placing an order today.
-
1 minute ago, Totem said:
thanks I missed this... so they will "upgrade" to a honda that puts out even less power... lol
No problem. I've been staying out of these discussions as I tire of getting hit in the head.
-
3 minutes ago, Totem said:
you do not mention what your current generator is;
11 hours ago, Brynn&Cas said:Our generator is a Coleman powermate with a 1800 running watts and a 2250 max watts
I'm only here to help
-
18 hours ago, Gulfstream Greg said:
which we pull with our 2002 F350 7.3 diesel. It seats 6, flys up mountains at the speed limit and gets 10 mpg no matter what.
Surprised you made this rookie mistake. You might as well call the the Gulfstream Greg's diesel thread now.
Though seriously, the reasons for selling seems shared by many. On one hand we love the compact nature of our Toyota but on the other, it is just too little headroom, too cramped and a little too intimate for more than a few days. We have been thinking about shopping for a suitable class A to be able to spend a couple months at a time in and using the Toyota for quick beach trips. In the end, I think it will only hasten a permanent move beyond this size RV for us. The breaking point for us will be the ability to tow something behind. There was a picture posted sometime back with a motorhome pulling a hi/low trailer that had both a Porsche Boxster and a boat. As absurd as some found it, exchange the convertible for my Jeep Cherokee and a solid hull boat and that is my retirement ideal. Camping, bay fishing, riding the dunes and surfcasting all in one portable package. I should frame that picture and hang it in my office. Reminds me, I need to research that kind of trailer.
Good luck with the sale. Sorry, I'm not in the market.
-
8 hours ago, Wade said:
Used a toyota OEM oil filter as well. Not sure if I will continue that but I will say that after about 800 miles the oil is still clear and hasn't moved a bit. I have always been happy with Wix or Hastings filters but it was just an easy thing to add to the order.
Thanks Wade. The basic parts I ran down have been ordered. I have a couple of weeks before the next trip and tracking says everything is to arrive tomorrow.
Some time back there was a rather contentious thread about oil filters. The outcome on that for me was I recorded the OEM part number and added it permanently to my Amazon parts wish list. As with all things Amazon the price fluctuates but it was available this time as an add on item to my prime order for $7.65 and all I had to do to order it was to click. That thread had pretty mixed opinions. Almost hate to even mention it in fear of stirring the pot but it really was worth the read.
I priced out parts between Rock and Amazon and ordered most of the OEM stuff from Amazon and most the rest from Rock with a little this and that mixed in. I plan on draining and tearing it down and will decide what else to replace once I've had a deeper look.
-
6 hours ago, MaineErik said:
I went for it this morning and got it all apart with surprising ease.
They just grow up so fast don't they.
Other than the fact there is a house attached to the back, working on these for the most part is basic mechanical work.
-
I poked around for about an hour but just can't find the post I was thinking of. It was a pictorial disassembly starting at the hub plate. Was so complete, I thought to myself, hey, I could even do that. Problem is, I haven't and even attempt to describe it from memory, I'll foul you all up.
It's on my list perhaps next season to do the brakes and all the preventive stuff on the rear so I'll need to find that post eventually. I got rush off but it has been dead here lately. Summer, go figure.
Hang in there and someone will likely post something useful cause I ain't no help on this.
-
4 hours ago, MaineErik said:
OK, I got the 3rd of 4 lugs free this morning. I applied a full 50 gal drum of freshly brewed ATF/Acetone magical mixture to the 4th and last lug - it will come free!!
So once it is free can you give me an idea of what's involved in removing the old studs and replacing with new ones? I'm assuming the drums have to be removed first, is that similar to what a typical Jap car would be like? Then I'll have to hammer out the old studs or are they screwed in somehow? Do I have to remove the hub? Gosh I hope not, but I don't want to wreck the bearings either. There are a lot of how-to vids for domestics online, maybe it's a similar procedure... or maybe I should just let the garage do it for 1.5hrs labor...
Probably the best pictorial break downs of this kind of stuff are from jdemaris. You might start at the pinned axle facts thread in suspensions and if I get a chance I'll search for a good thread if someone doesn't link it before me.
-
7 hours ago, Derek up North said:
False memory. Not MEK, but trichloroethelyne. Nasty stuff.
I know what you mean about memory. I'm trying to remember if it is molecular weight that is the determinate of penetration or not. Trichloroethylene is 131.4 g/mol vs acetone at 58.08. So that's how my Saturday morning is going. How's yours?
-
4 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
The comparison 'test' of this brew has been on the net for years. I did some 'digging' a number of years ago and it turns out that the 'author' actually did his test using power steering fluid and MEK.
I've never tried mixing up either since I've always had (IMHO) excellent results with PB Blaster.
The only appeal with this would be the squirt bottle vs the spray can which is all that is available at the local hardware store. Spray can always has the tube missing and gets more around the target than on it. I do like the built in tube on the new WD40 cans in that regard.
-
11 hours ago, MaineErik said:
So RH threads all around eh? Why was OEM LH in the first place?
The theory is the rotation of the wheel vs the lug nut so as not to have momentum loosen them. Or at least how I recall it being explained. If I'm wrong guys, go easy as I'm a bit gun shy after getting my butt handed to me on a fishing forum. Those guys are a tough crowd.
Also, have you verified the valve stems? The only thing I don't know is if those rims you have are different. Ask Linda as she has the same 6 hand hold rims on one of hers.
-
1 hour ago, fred heath said:
An excellent homemade rust penetrating fluid can be made with a 50/50 mix of ATF fluid and acetone. Put in a spray bottle. Will out perform all the commercial penetrates.
Remember to turn the spray head to "off" when done. The mix has a tendency to leak out through the spray head when in storage.
Interesting. I may have to try this but will likely go with a squirt bottle as I've had awful luck with spray bottles.
-
3 minutes ago, jjrbus said:
Ahhh stuck nuts! I used to use 10 foot pieces of schedule 140 pipe on 1 inch breaker bars and torches that would make the sun look small, with 100 horsepower compressors and 10 horsepower impact gun with kryptonite sockets to conquer those nuts, to be a winner, not just a contender.
There is something about frozen nuts that brings out the caveman in men, they bring out out Cro Magnum desire to beat it with a bigger club, we must win the battle with the stuck nut or women and children will starve, volcanoes will erupt and the world as we know it will come to an end.
One time after almost hurting my back on a nut I had a moment of inspiration. I took an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade and very carefully cut away at the nut as close to the threads as I could get, takes some patience and finesse, steady hand and good eye. As close to the thread as I can get without hitting the threads say within 1/32". Every nut I have tried this on will come off with 1 cut and with little effort. Not cutting into the thread but in parallel with the bolt. Now If I get too much resistance , out comes the grinder!
I realize this is not very macho and may bring shame on my family, but that's the way I do it! HTH Jim
I think I've figured out why you keep breaking things.
-
For posterity. 1987 Itasca cooling system parts. It was a Gates kind of day along with a couple of Aisin parts.
Aisin WPT007 Water pump
Aisin FCT003 Fan clutch
Gates 21398 Upper radiator, 20801 Lower radiator. 18792, 18789 & 18843 Heater hoses. Also listed were a couple auxiliary heater hoses that don't seem to apply. There was also a 18400 that was $5 so I added it in case it is the infamous under the Alternator hose that I can't find.
Also have an issue with the heater motor speed control. Ordered a control resistor motor.
AC is no longer functional so no belt there but ordered Gates 7345 & 9440 Alternator and power steering belts.
I ordered the oem radiator cap (16401-63010) and thermostat (90916-03078) and a couple of Beck Arnley thermostat gasket.
Also while I under the hood might as well change the oil so ordered a OEM 90915-YZZD1 Oil Filter For some reason Amazon says it doesn't fit though I've ordered it before.
No Red Antifreeze. Did see a listing for a Sunrader in ME for the low price of $18000. For that kind of money it should come with the Red stuff already done.
-
On 8/9/2016 at 0:20 PM, WME said:
Don't forget the little hose under the alternator.
I looked for said little bugger but the only hose there is the lower.
-
1 hour ago, Chinooking said:
I want to paint the wood inside my Chinook with regular house paint from Kelly Moore paints, but someone told me that I need special odorless paint because otherwise I will not be able to get rid of paint smell. Its been painted before with an ugly shade of pink by previous owner but I don't smell paint odor. Any ideas or suggestions?
latex or oil based paint? Latex will have a lingering smell for only a few days but oil will linger a bit longer. If latex and you are sensitive to solvents ask the paint store if it is low VOC (volatile organic compound) latex paint. If it is low VOC you should only at worse have that ammonia like smell that latex does often. Air it out for a few days while it dries and it should be Ok.
When we originally built our house I chose all latex including the wood floor coatings. When it came time to refinish 15 years later my wife insisted we use oil base because someone told her it was better. I never win at these kinds of things so oil it was. Every day when I came home I smelled the oil finish for two months. Didn't bother my wife but I've got the sensitive nose.
In my motorhome when I rebuilt the berth, I used epoxy waterproof paint and that lingered for a couple months.
Interesting Leak situation
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Back East Don
I mainly use simple green up top. It was suggested by a good friend who had been around RV's for years and said he used it on everything including EPDM. I tried it and it did a great job and have been using it ever since. I ended up using liquid EPDM on my roof and wonder if that is the rubbery coating you have. I had a ton of pin holes and even though I went really thick and heavy up top, the larger holes just sucked the stuff in. So a thin coat might have not penetrated nearly deep enough to seal and you have a through hole that water is getting into.
If you have not been introduced, allow me. Dicor lap sealant is sort of the standard for sealing roofs. For up top use self leveling. Check out this video for a quick primer on how to use it. And this one
You should be able to find it at an RV place but if not, Amazon has it.
Wish I got a check from these guys.