Back East Don
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Posts posted by Back East Don
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Blah, Blah, Blah indeed. It is commonly called wasting bandwidth in many of these kinds of forums. The moderator’s intention is often to keep the information neat and tight making it easily accessible for the one asking questions. This does a lot of things. Civility for instance. Stay on topic and the conversation doesn’t devolve into political or religious debates for example. This is a privately owned, password protected web site and the owner is free to run it any way he likes. In that, my opinion don’t mean squat.
But here’s the thing. I participate in forums small and large. Even some niche ones that still have thousands of active participants. Of all of them, this has to be the smallest group of core active participants I’ve seen. I have a hard time seeing this community grow out past what it is. So what exactly is this community? What does Greg envision this place he created is and should be? I’d be very interested in his perspective. He can look through all of my past participation and will find that I’ve been a good citizen in this community even though I’m a prime offender in the Blah, Blah, Blah. This place would be awful dry without it.
There have always been contentious relationships among members here. On the web this happens because it is a lousy interpersonal communication medium. A bit of levity and some off topic engagement can help foster a sense of connection. Seems like a bit of that could go a long way here. It is hard to dislike someone you've met in person. If you go through life doing so, it is time to look in the mirror. Online it is far to easy to loose sight of this. Food for thought those who participate online should give some consideration to.
I don’t see any of the core participants on this forum coming here solely for Toyota discussion. That is just an area of interest we all share.
So what is this RV community anyway? Why do you come here?
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9 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
I haven't done/tried this, but if/when I do, I'd first investigate adding the new wires to the existing wire 'bundle' that connects the rear lights (running/brake/reverse) to the cab up front.
And there's the wireless option, though they seem to get mixed reviews.
Perhaps it is just my background but in the AV world, you don't run video or audio wires parallel with power. Now DC is not usually a problem but with so much switch mode power supplies adding noise to the spectrum, I still avoid this. This was beat into my head from my earliest recording studio engineering days and even with the advent of digital, as an industry we still follow this protocol.
As the song lyrics go, "got to keep them separated". Hard to believe that like me, that song is now old.
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2 minutes ago, jjrbus said:
If there is a good way to run wires through coach, I have not found it. I am now running a wire from the electrical panel to rear of coach and doing it by going through the floor and attaching to frame with wire ties and whatever else is at hand.
I think that it might vary on different makes and models. I ran a micro 75 ohm video cable front to back and the hardest part was the cab. Even the cab though was just a matter of removing the sill and window pillar plastics and sneaking it up through the headliner. The house side there is the two benches of the dinette then the cabinet for the fridge that has also has the furnace. Past that it is just the shower pan then across to the sink base over to the closet. Thing is there is plenty of space under everything but the furnace. Even then, I managed to route it around along with a bunch of other power wires I ran. It helped that I have both spring metal and firberglass snakes. On mine it was easy peasy. So you have to look at it carefully. I can only presume there are variations in how difficult this task is.
My camera is now pretty outdated. I replaced the small display screen with a 7 inch model but know that I can get a better camera these days. Plus I'd like to have a camera view from higher up looking down at the bumper and what is behind me. This season is wrapping up so perhaps next spring. So something to consider when choosing both a camera and display. The little display was certainly cheap but the image quality made its usefulness limited. Same with the camera which is still available 5 years after I bought mine but still stupid cheap. So I suggest moving up at least beyond the cheapest models.
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51 minutes ago, Totem said:
So if i understand the swamp cooler correctly you must constantly feed it water to work, yes?
There is a pretty good wikipedia article on the topic. Click on the photos on the right and go through the gallery of examples. Some cool stuff (pun intended). The window mounted Kool-Air on a 1949 Hudson for instance.
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29 minutes ago, Maineah said:
3's OK just half speed 6. It doesn't have trigger wire?
Thank goodness 5 cylinder engines are didn't become popular. It would be too much mental math.
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Just now, Totem said:
in my case the one in mine was total garbage.
I accounted for that.
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21 minutes ago, Totem said:
The SPP6 can be attached to that cap or just replace that cap with it. In my case i found mine ran better if I removed the crap cap.
Another funny thing I can tell you.. the Coleman Power Saver edition Mach1 that I upgraded to from my old 13500 came with a SPP6 clone in it already!
Connecting the two caps in parallel would provide a total of the two capacitor values. So if you had a 45mf cap and a 15mf the total would be 60mf thus increasing the capacitance. That would be the argument for connecting the two. If you suspect the one in there of being crap, that is the argument for just installing the SPP6.
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38 minutes ago, Totem said:
of course i do. Apparently it worked for WME also... you gonna cat call him too?
I'm sorry, I couldn't resist. The absolutism was too perfect.
I've been learning to just let go these days and abandon fanatical perfectionism. I just need to work on the resultant callous disregard.
What do you want from a fish hole.
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2 minutes ago, Brynn&Cas said:
I guarantee it
and he doubles down.
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1 hour ago, Gulfstream Greg said:
Flush the system with a hose flush kit then re-flush with distilled water. When replacing coolant use distilled water and not tap water.
Still awaiting the last bit of parts. As I'll have it all apart, it will be pretty easy to get most of what is left after flushing it out and then removed. The hardest item might be the heater core. Thinking low pressure air from the compressor or high volume air from the shop vacuum cleaner. From there it will be distilled. Might pick up a few more jugs and run some through before hand.
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1 hour ago, Totem said:
ok ok, I believe you that you are real thanks to Derek.
Oh how one can become wedded to their opinions. An odd crusade you've chosen. I'd be interested in what purity test you'll come up with next.
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An oddity to be sure. There was some discussion about these some time back. Don't recall the consensus but remember the foolies and I think something about that tag axle not really rated for much of anything. Please, someone correct me as I know upfront, I suffer from CRS.
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1 minute ago, jjrbus said:
AC works well on shore power so is a strong indication that there is not an issue, no guaranty, just an indication. Jim
I hate talking around a problem rather than address it directly. I am not competent enough to do that. I tried to make that clear. I do however remember a post regarding the starting cap wiring just not all the details.
So I'll address this in the form of a question. If the cap was out of the circuit, would the AC still be able to start off a normal house breaker? How about if the starter cap was weak? I've got a clamp on amp meter for one of my fluke meters but that's not going to help the discussion. Perhaps you could access that NASA super computer and model it for me.
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Oh an by the way, nice RV
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1 hour ago, Brynn&Cas said:
Like I said before, unless if you need me to quote myself on this, this is the FIRST generator I have ever owned so, like I said before I have no idea what I'm doing. I'm on this site to maybe get some help, not to get some attitude from some guy on the internet . You could have mentioned all these other steps I had to go through to make it work in the beginning. I even asked about a hard start capacitorr in my very first post but from what I recall you never mentioned it until now. So, back to the real problem at hand if you're done deciding I'm a troll. I was unaware that you have to break in a generator (remember, its my FIRST generator). Do you break it in by just running it, with a load, without a load? How will that help?
My airconditioner is a Duo-Therm by Dometic, it also says it's a Briskair. If my math is correct the watts it takes to start the ac unit is 7,620. To keep the unit running it takes 1,776 watts. In no way am I saying I did that correctly. So, if I install the hard start capacitor, you're saying it will take over 5,000 less to start the ac?
See, didn't I tell you Totem would be right along to help?
Don't take it the wrong way. There is a lot going on with this and for the un-initiated, it can seem daunting. There is a wealth of information to glean in the numerous threads with regard to both AC units and subsequently generators.
I'm not an expert but I'll give you my assessment of what you will likely need to do as at least a starting point. This is an old RV with likely an old well worn AC unit. You wouldn't be the first with problems. First gain a bit of knowledge. If we can all stop playing around here, perhaps we can actually assist you. I'm not kidding, some of these people are as smart as they come.
So those with some ideas, it is troubleshooting 101. Lets see if we can figure out if this is a load issue. jdemaris speaks a lot about the compressor loads and the math. Me, I'm wondering if your starter cap might not have an issue. Some have had problems and found the wiring to the cap loose. I've some recollection of it. You read a lot of posts over 6 years.
So if we can get some brain power a little better than mine and come up with a plan, you on board? Sorry I poked a bit of fun. It was never intended to be at your expense.
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I for one, love trolling. Sadly dream boat is going to have to wait but we may decide go the used route.
What said dream boat looks like. This is the kind of boat that is purpose built and doesn't require the owner be enslaved to its care like fiberglass. 1/4 inch marine aluminum alloy bottom. Thing is a tank.
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If you type in RV Roof Vent into an Amazon search you'll find all sorts of vents from cheap to expensive and various sizes. Measure the cut out not the trim.
As for installing, Watch this video from Dicor. You have any questions after, don't hesitate to ask.
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24 minutes ago, jdemaris said:
Your Google must be defective (besides being spelled wrong by the creator). Bowl-Head Indians are still in Canada and incorporated into the Atikamekw people. Like most Indian names - they often get stuck with derogatory names given to them by the French or English or sometimes other Indians. I get lazy and use the term "Bowl-Head" because I get tired of trying to use French letter characters with my USA keyboard. The name in Quebec (note even "Quebec" is supposed to have an aigu over the first "e" but it is too much work) - Bowl-Head spelled properly iis Tête de boule
Like the Huron Indians here are really Oundats ("huron" is sort of meant "crude moron" in old French).
Or "Iroquois" that is a French insult meaning "black snake."
Or "Adirondack" that is an insult meaning "bark eater."
Or "Mohawk" is an insult meaning "man eater."
The poor Bowl-Heads got their name from French priests in Quebec that forced the kids to become Christians and get bad haircuts. My family lived with them.
Pretty common that names get butchered. I'm Acadian. The English relocated some of my brethren after some squabbles with France (seems that had gone on for a long time) and sent them to New Orleans. Well the locals had just a wee bit of trouble with pronouncing Acadian (especially when someone french is telling you how to) and just settled on cajun. My last name is just a butchered anglophile rendition of the original.
My fore bearer was from Morlaix France and came to Quebec with his uncle who was a Bishop. He spoke the native Micmak language along with French and English. During the Revolutionary war, Washington sent men up to try to convince the native population in New Brunswick to join in the fight. Joseph was the translator. He advised them it was not in their interest and was rewarded by being robbed and having a barn burned down. While those names may be derogatory, the early french worked with the native population far better than the subsequent English did. In my opinion, the English just ruined the place but I have a French leaning bias.
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2 hours ago, jdemaris said:
Amps at working voltage under load is more important - at least to me. 120 volts alternating-current is supposed to be 170 volts at both ends of the Hertz Cycle. Many generators only run at 150 volts at the peaks and nadirs. So one might be rated 2200 watts but be low voltage, while another might be rated 2200 watts with higher voltage.
I had a oil furnace transformer that was unknowingly on its way out. It tripped the burner a few times because the arc at the gap wasn't enough to ignite the spray (this is all knowledge after the fact). The way I found it was happenstance. Power went out and I plugged in my generator and the burner wouldn't fire at all. I dig out my tools and my meter. The Yamaha voltage just seemed a bit low to me so I dug out the manual. Turns out there was a trim adjustment. I raised the output voltage the regulator would maintain and sure enough the furnace fired right up. I called the service company to come in a take a look at the furnace anyway. After a couple hours trying to adjust it properly, it was determined that the transformer had a short somewhere in the windings. Replaced it and it never tripped again.
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1 minute ago, jjrbus said:
Probably not, I just enjoy working on them
I just priced out our dream fishing boat today. It's from a company called Pacific. Seems I cannot get enough of aluminum. $109K without electronics and the base Honda (yes not everyone hates this company) 225HP outboard. No such thing as landing one of these used. Easier to find a 4x4 Sunrader in perfect showroom condition.
I may have to come out of semi-retirement. Wife says for fishing, she can give up having a motorhome. So go camping while you can.
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So,
You ever going camping?
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6 hours ago, Totem said:
"I saw a Honda at Trader Vicks... his hair was perfect."
I can't tell you how long its been since I've had a pina colada and how much I miss Warren.
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1 hour ago, Brynn&Cas said:
Well, as an update for anyone that cares, we bought the HF 2500 and it won't even turn on our AC let alone run it. So we're pretty disappointed because it seemed really promising. It runs well and we love how quiet it is, however that does nothing for us at this point.
Totem will be right over to help you out.
This is a very intelligent bunch though it is hard to tell some days.
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1 hour ago, Denny said:
I have read a lot of the forum and enjoyed the humor side of this forum.
I like you already Denny
Blah, Blah, Blah what is this RV community anyway?
in General Discussion
Posted · Edited by Back East Don
I totally agree. Greg selling his and moving on highlights the point. I don't know if this is true for you but I envision once I move up in size, the Toyota will see less and less use. Like Greg, I'll probably pass it on. Then what? If that is the case with you, I still wonder, what are your reasons for remaining active on this forum? I suspect I know the answer, just wouldn't presume.
For me, I take these communities for what they are and not solely what they are about.