Back East Don
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Posts posted by Back East Don
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Some of the rear view types have fairly small screens. I ended up replacing the first monitor I installed and opted for a 7 inch that I mounted above rather than over. I like this location vs lower as it is just instinctive to look there. Next year I need to replace the camera as I am heading into year 6 with the one I have and video quality is not up to some of the newer ones. I installed the same monitor in my service van but with a better camera and it is much sharper and handles light variations better. Also would love to go up with a downward to rear type camera like some delivery vans use. Season is over here so will wait till next year to decide what. Just offering an opinion.
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2 hours ago, jjrbus said:
Thanks for looking it up. This is a small town run by Mormons, unlikely there is much to do besides church.
It was only on the second read that I got Mormons out of that sentence.
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2 hours ago, jdemaris said:
"no fuel."
Sounds pretty lean to me.
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Probably not a lot of diagnostic help but the code 25 is a lean fuel error. Hey, I looked it up for your year. Good luck and try to make an adventure out of it. What else can you do?
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41 minutes ago, bicoastal eric said:
I did, however, need to get the rear main bearing and seal replaced because of excessive play and leaking.
Interesting.
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Don't know what the connection point would be on yours. On mine it was directly to the extended truck frame. I used the old bumper as it fit over the frame channel. I then welded the 4" standard square tubing to the pieces I cut. I also ordered an aluminum extruded cover for the square tubing and fastened it with pop rivets. Then just used 2 of the rubber pop out caps. Makes a good storage place for the Rhino sewer hose. Here is some pictures for the idea of it. I bought an 8 footer of both. Add a short piece of some sort of channel to that and find a welder who can run a couple of quick welds. You could probably do the rest yourself. I cut the long square box tube to length with a metal cutting blade on a skill saw. The aluminum extrusion on a table saw but you could even use a hack saw as neither is that heavy. I clamped and drilled some holes for bolts and fastened it to the frame. Whole project took less than a day. You just need someone who can weld. Should be fabrication shops in your area that could do that for you if you mark it out in simple chalk or wax pencil. Please note the hitch did not have enough surface area to secure the weld to the thin tubing and the hitch receiver weld broke after one season. Contemplating shortening the extension and removing the cargo tray in favor of a shorter overall rig. I've replaced the hitch though with a bolt up one for the bike rack which as it turns out, is more important to us than added cargo capacity.
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53 minutes ago, linda s said:
I see no reason to change a tail house extension bushing that isn't leaking. Mine has never leaked on my 86 so I don't really think it's a widespread problem. I do change my fluid regularly though. Probably every 2 years.
Linda S
I barely have any anecdotal evidence so I'm not making a definitive stance. Only will suggest that few look that deep at their undercarriage till there is a problem. Checking both for play and leaks is a starting point. The transmission shop said I was at about the limit of wear and had it gotten much worse, I'd be looking at a more extensive repair. Seems to me that by the time it starts leaking, you've already got a decent amount of damage. The point at which it started to show leakage on the driveway happened rather suddenly. Glad I dealt with it quickly. How much more did it cost me over just a transmission flush? Much cheaper than a more extensive repair or transmission rebuild.
4 minutes ago, jdemaris said:but when the rear suspension is good, there is very little fore-and-aft movement to cause that wear.
I've got the lighter 19 footer without air bags. I've a third the miles you have. Not sure what the causes are for the differences in service life. The shocks might have been worn when I got it but only the steering stabilizer was to the point of being ineffective. Meaning handling wasn't bad nor was the ride at least for the shocks. While I've owned it for over 6 years, this is only the second year where it got regular use. The first year I put about 6k miles then it sat barely used for 3 years. Finally last year I while getting it ready for use again I found the leaking tailpiece. The wear itself would have likely happened long before the miles I put on it. The miles I put on it were only over one summer and all smooth highway miles.
So I still think it is good to keep an eye out because dealing with it early will save you a ton of money vs a much more expensive repair.
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I am going to suggest a somewhat different direction. I am typically a do it yourself-er but I draw the line at certain points. The transmission with the 4 cyl is pretty solid but has a bushing in the tailpiece that is prone to wear. Mine had just over 50k miles when I purchased it. Last year at around 60k I noticed I was dripping trans fluid out the end seal. So I searched through and found a couple posts including the transmission sticky in this section. A bit of a slog to read through but the long and short of it is that the bushing wear will affect more than just the output shaft seals and is more than just a minor issue in the long run. If the plan is to keep this running in good condition over the long haul, it has been suggested to add this bushing to the maint schedule with the fluid change. Perhaps you are comfortable with this type of work, I was not. So I found a good indie shop that does a lot of hot rods and older vehicles. He had some familiarity with this transmission. I explained that I researched the transmission and that other than the leak, mine was running perfectly. I asked him to replace the bushing and seals along with dropping the pan and replacing the filter screen and fluid. I also specifically asked for a Duraprene gasket for the pan. Those here who have done transmission work have suggested it is a better solution to other gasket materials.
Total cost was around $400 to have it done. Well worth it to me to have someone else do it. Your opinion on that may differ.
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No experience but I question what the advantage would be. The original are not what you call piercingly bright, I get that. There were some questionable adapter lenses that use a more modern quartz lamp but reviews were all over the place. I found just changing them out every few years or so helped as they dim over time. What are the chances of getting something well engineered for a shrinking market such as these old lamp styles would be?
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1 hour ago, jdemaris said:
This was a 2004 with 160K miles and looked like new. Original owner and he had just recently had new wheel bearings put in front. I was not afraid that I could not fix it. The issue is this. I drove a long ways and the seller told me it "ran perfect." I told him before I left home that if it had any known mechanical problems - and it was priced to reflect that - I'd drive down with my Ford truck and car-trailer and trailer this Vibe/Matrix home. But he swore - "no issue and it ran perfect." So I get there and as soon as I see the check-engine-light on, and the awful howl it makes whenever it moves - the seller's credibility was lost to me. He would not drop the price at all and I already offered him full Kelley Blue Book "private sale" value. So, I left. Too bad. It was a nice looking rig with zero rust and that is rare around here for a vehicle that age. No way would I risk driving 130-140 miles home with it.
My comment wasn't reflective of this particular deal just these in general as you indicated that you've been in the market for one. Just an issue I ran into looking for one for family and found out it was pretty common. I find common issues like these a good negotiation point. Even if there are no indication of problems.
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The all wheel drive Matrix has a couple known issues depending on year, one being the bearings in the viscous coupler for the rear end. I test drove one when looking for a car for my sister-in-law and immediately heard it. The check engine light, who knows. If you are interested in a AWD matrix though, these bearings are an easy fix. I suspect the noise is often a reason some trade them in.
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24 minutes ago, Maineah said:
Why do they all look the same?
This question could be asked of so many products. Cell phones to something as mundane as clothes irons. Some of that involves function and some prevailing popularity. So if the Honda is seen as the standard, make yours look like the Honda. Where is the mystery? Even if they are being copied, why do you think only one company in a country with over a billion people can produce a generator? You are familiar enough and old enough to have seen the same thing first out of Japan then Korea and now China. Each one has stark cultural differences but are following a similar evolutionary path in industrial development. China is on a whole different scale though. Be dismissive if you want. It doesn't make you right.
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Nicely done. I priced out having 7 rims soda blasted and powder coated this year. $860 just in case you wanted to feel better about doing it yourself. I would have had to remove the tires and stems first and then re-mount and balance them. Decided I didn't want the rims to look better than the rest of it.
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Alright Erik, no mystery here. Pretty much like I explained. T's on the heater in and out. Cold in then to the cold water faucet of the kitchen sink and hot out is T'd to the rest of the hot water valves in the camper.
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1 hour ago, WME said:
The numbers I listed were at full load, so its an apples to apples comparison. HOWEVER bearing in mind the old saying "that figures don't lie, but liars can figure" I was unable to find any info on distance of the measurement. Onan does list noise, distance and load. The Microlite 2800 is 70 db @10 ft with a 50% load.
P.S. The National Park Service noise requirement for legal use in a national park is 60 db @ 50 ft (15m). So reversing Dons distance formula gives you an idea why when Joe Smoo fires up his "legal" job site generator you have to leave the neighborhood.
That figures to about 84dB at one meter for the park service requirement to be legal. Not a very quiet generator. (Edit: 84dB is close enough)
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17 minutes ago, MaineErik said:
#1 --- Yes! There is a random piece of hose with a female attachment, good to know what it was intended for
#2 --- Any idea on freeing up these valves, I certainly don't want to use the 50gal drum of PB Blaster on my drinking water system!
@Back East Don, the cold water line to the sink is in that photo, it's just been disconnected from the T fitting on the water heater (that being one of the mysteries!). All the plumbing seems intact under the sink, although there seems to be a very convoluted method of piping in a water filter. Could you take a photo of your water heater area and send it to me so I can see what it's supposed to look like? And are your H and C valves on the kitchen sink backward too? (cold on L, hot on R)So once I get this stuff put back together how would I go about making sure there is not a leak under the shower pan... I hope it's not just waiting for a wet rug or floor to appear!!
I'll take a photo when I get the chance today. As to the shower, on mine the panel from the metal trim cap to the floor on that shower front comes off pretty easily. There are a handful of screws holding that cap. And yes mine are backwards but I thought that was my mistake when I re-surfaced the countertop with new formica. Perhaps not or somewhere along the way your previous owner made a similar mistake. Every trip I think to myself, it wouldn't be that hard to swap them but never get around to it.
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18 minutes ago, markwilliam1 said:
If I remember correctly and increase of 10db doubles the perceived sound level and an increase of 3db doubles the power requirement. So a generator running @ 58db would be much quieter than a generator running @ 64db but not twice as quiet??
You are mixing up a couple of things if I am guessing right. The 10dB is an approximate if taken as auditory perception. Human hearing is not however linear, so frequency plays a part in that perception. Interesting reading when getting into the physiology of the ear. The human ear has a built in compression mechanism controlled primarily by the outer hair cells of the cochlea. Sound to nerve impulses only have a dynamic range of about 50dB but we can hear over 120dB of dynamic range because of this compression. Hence the field of Psycho-acoustics which is not a term about me talking acoustics.
Sound at distance, you see energy loss (sound) at 6db for every doubling of distance. So sound measured at 56dB at one meter would be 50dB at two meters and 46dB at four meters without things like resonant surfaces and reflective reinforcement. So when rating the gen set it is important to know not only what the sound level under load is but also the distance of measurement. The power requirement part has more to do with speaker amplification. Here it takes double the amplifier power for every 3dB of acoustic gain. So not generator power just to make that clear.
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16 minutes ago, Maineah said:
Funny I could not find any info as far as noise levels etc. mind showing us a link?
Right on the product page just need to scroll down on the specifications. 66dB but at what load?
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My experience with regard to most parts place seems to be the luck of the draw when it comes to who you end up with at the counter. I find it easy insurance, if I want to buy parts from a local brick and mortar, is to look up the part number for them. So for the brake pads, I would get a Bendix, Raybestos or other major brand part number and take that with me or even call it in. Saves me a lot of dumb stares when trying to explain it to them. I do this for my other vehicles. I did this yesterday after attempting to buy something simple like a muffler for my Jeep Cherokee. The counter person started with Federal or Cali emission questions then a half dozen other variables. I pulled out my phone, looked up the part number and asked him if he had it in stock. This is at a shop where the counter guys are typically good but I'm guessing new guy that couldn't filter out the options that were unlikely. In looking it up myself, there are only 3 options, flanged direct fit (I'm welding it up so nope) Stainless (pricey) and the one I wanted, the standard clamp on pipe. Thing is, all 3 are the same muffler application. On mine the flange was already cut off. Guy had difficulty getting past the computer software prompting each next question.
So if you want less headaches, look it up before heading out to the parts store. You at least have the option to ask if the part they are selling is the equivalent.
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25 minutes ago, MaineErik said:
1/8" wallboard and clamps annndddd some weight to get it all adhered correctly!
I love the improvised clamping method. Use what you got right?
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Starting with the water pump, looks like someone changed the pump and modified it nine different ways. The valve flush against the tank is the winterization valve. Notorious for the orings to leak, simple to rebuild. The valve on the pump might be a check valve though not sure why it is needed there. No idea on the water heater stuff but I did have to replace a couple of the valve assemblies as they had cracked from poor winterizing. Shower and sink. They are cheap and easy to replace if that is a help. So where is the cold water line from the kitchen sink. Any of it left in there?
The electrical wiring might be the porch light fixture and the floor illumination light. If you don't have either, those are the feed for them. Just a guess as I have those and that is what it is connected to.
Testing the water is always fun with the unknown.
The path if I recall is the tank to the pump then to the city water feed which has its own check valve, then T to the shower cold water, T to the toilet T to the cold water bathroom sink, T to the water heater with the final to the cold water kitchen sink valve. Then the same for the hot, T at the heater with one feed to the kitchen sink, the other to a T under the bathroom sink going to the hot valve and then around to the hot water valve of the shower. Thinking about it the pump output would go to the city valve and that capped T winterization is just there to empty the water tank. No idea about the cap at the water heater though.
At some point you'll have to add water and cross your fingers and be prepared to clean up a mess. There are a couple more of those winterization valves that should be in the back of the storage compartment (under the closet). Like I said, they are leak prone. Add water, and turn on the pump and see what happens as there is a lot of hidden line and valves that make visual inspection difficult. Besides you will more likely than not to find cracks that only reveal themselves under pressure. Hope this helps at least somewhat.
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19 minutes ago, BobBeery said:
Thanks jjrbus, Maineah, and Back East Don.
I have shown that turning off the 15A breaker also turns off the battery charger.
Disconnecting the POS wire from the battery makes no difference in hum or heat.
The hum can be felt as well as heard. It comes from the big bottom half not from the actual breaker.
By lifting up the seat of the sofa I was able to make sure that nothing is blocking air circulation. I am able to feel the whole unit except the underneath. With the 15A breaker on it is hottest at the back left. There is some heat on the left side, little heat on the top but no heat on the right side.
Everything that draws electricity has been turned off except a factory built-in LP gas detector which has not switch that I can find.
Today it took about 2 hours before it got warm enough to kick the fan on.
Battery is a Wal-Mart deep cycle marine group 27 dated 3/13. This morning with POS wire disconnected I got 12.34v on my digital meter.
Now some background. This is my third Toyhouse. The others both had 25 Amp BK devices and I never paid them much attention but never heard a hum never felt heat and never heard a fan or observed air blown out the front by a fan. This one is a Magnatech series 6300A model 6332 with options C N I B (or 8) date code 4 3 3. I found an operator's pamphlet from Magnatech. The option C means 3A battery charger which tapers the charge and shuts off when batt is fully charged but comes on again if the batt drops below a predetermined level. There is no wiring diagram, schematic, or drawing.
Speculation--I know just enough electricity and electronics from 40-50 years ago to get myself in trouble, but....could the hum and heat be coming from a transformer?
And sorry to say I need to get this taken care of quickly. I have an overnight stay to do in three days, and in six days I leave on a five day trip. I will have shore power available all nights..
On the DC side there are fuses. As I suggested, pull them all out then apply the AC power. This would run the power supply with no load. With the battery disconnected, if it still gets hot, the power supply is the problem.
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My cooling system started running a bit hotter than normal this season. I suspect either the fan clutch or impeller of the water pump as I've seen both affect efficiency in cooling in other vehicles. Coolant is full and if I run the heater, it quickly drops to normal. So I figure time to give it a thorough going over.
Don't know if this sounds like what you are trying to solve with an electric fan but if so, you might find that going over your cooling system might solve it for you. Don't forget the thermostat and radiator cap too.
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2 hours ago, Derek up North said:
We'll have to see what happens to all the Yahoo Groups now that they've been sold. I hope/assume that the Group owners are taking steps to protect themselves. Having a 'Plan B' is always good to have.
I've no love for the Yahoo group. I tried once to assist someone in an area where I actually have some experience. If this place becomes like it, I'm done.
Ezpass Toll Transponder Fyi
in General Discussion
Posted
I mounted mine on the window in the sleeping berth and it has worked without issue. All the readers I've encountered are from above. Before I mounted it though, I had it on the dash and it worked there but we only went through a couple tolls so not exactly much of a test.