siskiou
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Posts posted by siskiou
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I'm using these on my Sunrader, it's easy to add a ground wire to them
Thanks!
I'll put LEDs on next time the clearance lights are acting up on us!
And we have now fixed the taillight problems!
A new ground and reversing the polarity took care of the fast blinker and the weak lights, and the brake light going out when headlights were on!
At least, now we won't have to worry about that part!
Ready to go camping next Friday!
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Can you point me to some led clearance lights that we could use? I wonder if there are any that come with ground wires, or are they all "self-grounding"?
I got all of them lighting up right now, but am sure they'll be corroded again in no time!
I changed all mine with LEDs recently. Not because of lower power draw. More because of longevity and NO bulb socket to corrode. The OEM clearance lights used two wires each. Positive wire and a chassis-negative wire. The new LED clearance lights only have one wire each and were designed to be "self-grounding" which I did not like. I drilled a small hole in the back of each LED assembly, ran the negative wire into it and attached it to metal part inside via an added ring-terminal, stainless-steel star-washer, and screw. No big deal but there ARE a lot of lights to change.
By the way, the factory wiring on my 1988 Minicruiser has one half the clearance and marker lights hooked to the left front parking-light wire. The other half to the right front parking light wire. And they did it in a very cheap way with those 3M type "push clip" connectors that are not waterproof. I cut the corroded connectors out and soldered all together.
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When I went to LED tail lights, all the problems went away. Which led me to believe all the problems were inside the old light fixtures. And I was just like you, this was working, this wasn't. Checking this, checking that. But that was just me. Just saying.
So, you didn't have the "fast turn signal" problems I've been reading about?
And is there a surface mount LED tail light assembly that can easily be switched to?
We seem to have fixed most of the problems with a new ground on the left, and switching the polarity. Left side was only lighting up the dimmer of the two filaments.
Now the only thing that's not working are the two little turn signal lights on the side at the back.
Trying new bulbs for those next.
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Thanks for all the advice!
I'll go shop for a test light.
And how would I add a new ground to the light assembly?
The old one is not held on with a screw. It's "permanently" attached, so I can't take it off and clean the contacts.
There is definitely some corrosion.
I'd love to change to LEDs, but that seems to come with it's own set of challenges.
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I got all the clearance lights to work by taking off the corrosion.
But the no luck with the tail lights.
I got the turn signal glow on the dash to go away, changed all the bulbs, but still have dim lights on that side and the brake light only works when the headlights are off.
When headlights are on, the brake light on the left goes out completely.
Also, the second of the two filaments on the left side doesn't come on for any of the bulbs.
I have a fast turn signal on the left side, too.
Wiring is a pain!!!
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No, less than 30 minutes. But I had started the engine several times in the couple of hours before, and only let it run to do a few checks on the lights.
Maybe we *do* need a new battery.
The charger claims it's down to 25%.
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I wish I knew more about all this! It's only on the back.
After taking both of the light boxes off, It seems they were wired differently.
On the left, the lower of the two filaments lit up, while on the right the upper filaments come on.
Also, on the right side, someone added a connection between the outer and the middle lights.
Changed the wiring on the left, and had just switched on the lights for a minute, to see what was lighting up now, when a friend came by.
Got distracted, and since the engine wasn't running, I killed the battery. 8)
It's on the charger and now I'll have to wait a bit before I can investigate further.
the left side has generally weaker lights than the right.
If that true for only the rears I would take a good look at where the maker spliced the rear lights wiring onto the Toyota wiring harness. Ours wasn't too good. -
We have the surface mounted 1400 series, and the left side has generally weaker lights than the right.
Also, when the lights are turned on, the left turn signal arrow on the dash panel is very slightly lit (when turn signal is not turned on).
Is this due to a bad ground? And if yes, where do I start looking, or how would I add a new ground to the left tail light assembly?
I'm not experienced with electrical, but really good at learning and following instructions!
A lengthy google search just gets me lots of trailer wiring instructions, and vague references to adding a ground wire.
Also, our running lights along the top front and back only have one lit bulb each. The other bulbs look fine.
What should be the first thing to troubleshoot next?
Unfortunately, the fixtures on the front are hard to reach, even with a ladder.
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I'm half wondering if something could have made a nest next to the water heater, because the smell does not come from the water.
That smells fine.
We just get this sickly smell, when the water heater is in use, getting worse and worse with time.
Also, I'm not sure how to rinse this water heater. The anode rod is located on the rear of it, under the sink, and I don't see anything I could remove on the front to give a large enough access to do the rinsing.
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We've had an unpleasant smell in our Odyssey, every time we use the water heater.
Rinsing it through with vinegar, and then bleach, did no good.
Today, we finally got the old anode rod (must have been in there since the beginning!) out, or so we thought.The
plug came out, but what was left of the rod was no longer attached to the plug.
We managed to pull out the inner core of the rod with pliers, but there was a little bit of "rotten looking" metal around the it at one end, and it crumbled and fell into the tank. Is this a problem? Or is it okay, since the rod is designed to dissolve over time?
Should we try to flush out the stuff somehow?
I'm going to shop for a new anode rod, and hope that the smell was related the old anode, and that we can now use our water heater again.
If it's still smelly, I guess we will have to replace the water heater.
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. You did not mention what kind of converter you have
We have the Progressive Dynamics PD 723Q.
Do you have power at the fuses when on shore power?
I really don't know.
Am not electrically knowledgeable and would need detailed instructions to figure this out safely.
We do have a multimeter.
And with the negative wires (there are 3) disconnected at the battery and plugged into shore power, the lights, fan in the range hood, 12 volt outlet above the fridge and water pump are all working fine. Just the furnace does not function without the battery disconnected.
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Thanks, everyone!
It's hard to decide if this is a decent charger or not, but we'll keep it for now.
I'm just wandering about the "excessive charge current" and what exactly it means.
The manual was silent about that aspect.
Maybe Progressive Dynamics will have more info about it.
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Yes!
I found a pdf for it a few minutes after posting.
Always happens that way.
In the manual it says that it switches to a trickle charge, once the battery is fully charged.
Does this mean, it won't cook our battery, if left plugged in?
It also says to check the battery water level at least once a week.
And that if the light on the charge sentinel flashes slowly, there is excessive charge current. What exactly does that mean?
Because it always does this, once the battery is fully charged on ours.
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What would be the correct upgrade for our current charger/converter?
PD723
I can't find much info about it online.
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Oh, you mean to only connect them to each other, when the battery is disconnected?
We currently only have the negative wires disconnected.
Should we also take the positives off, and bolt them together, or is that not necessary?
I was also thinking of eventually adding a switch to turn the battery off, though not sure how to do this, with having several negative/positive wires.
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Thanks!
And then connect the bolted together ones to the terminal? By adding a pigtail?
And what will that change, compared to having them separate?
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There are three wires on the negative, and also several on the positive (not sure right now, if it's also three, but most likely).
If so, use a bolt and connect all the pluses together and the same for the minuses. 12 volts shouldn't be back-feeding from the battery, all power should be feed from the fuse panel. Make sure to wrap, tape, or protect the wires from shorting out to each other.I don't quite understand the instructions. Electrical is not my strength, unfortunately.
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that the 12 volt appliances are not working when on shore power only? 1986 Toyota Odyssey
We took the negative off the battery, to prevent overcharging, because we want to have the motorhome plugged in, with a small electric heater running on the days with freezing temperatures.
I noticed that we have lights and the stove hood fan working, but not the water pump, light panel showing the tank/battery levels, furnace etc.
Those only work, when the battery is connected.
Do we have a problem, or is this the way it's supposed to be?
Edit: Water pump is working, furnace is not. Furnace works great, when battery is connected.
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Yes, I think he soaked it in tranny fluid, though not totally sure, and that he blew out some gunk from the cable sheath, while the cable was removed and soaking.
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Got it fixed today!
It was the kickdown cable, and the mechanic had to drop the pan to get at the throttle valve, to get the cable out.
$80 later, the transmission works better than before, and we are very happy that it was a cheap and easy fix!
And we found what seems like an honest transmission mechanic, who didn't try to talk us into getting a rebuild done, like several others, whom we spoke to on the phone.
There was no sign of a torched cable jacket.
I'm hoping, the same thing won't happen again, but at least we know, what to look for now!
Thanks for all the help and support, everyone!
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Thanks, John! I've saved the manual for future use! Interesting reading! I'm starting to understand why transmission work is so expensive!
Hi Siskiou Try pulling it out and working the cable back and forward to see if you can get any movement, then at least you would be able to drive it and get it fixed. I had mine replaced at a transmission shop and they only removed the pan, it wasn't a long job, I forget what it cost now, I don't remember there being any "stops" on the cable except for the two ends, the old cable had a rubber piece in from the motor end to gauge the adjustment.
Thanks, Mike! I'll try to see if I can get it to go back in again, today. Looks like some cables have stops and others don't, depending on the car brand.
What you can try if you need to drive it start in L and manually shift it, if it shifts for you it most likely will still be late and shift pretty hard but it would be better (and a bit faster) then low gear. The pan has to be removed and once installed adjusted properly. Figure on 2 hours or so for some one that has done it before. Don't bother with the JCW cable get the real deal. Don't think I have ever seen any thing from JCW that actually fit properly. The cable has a plastic liner over the years the inner cable cuts through the liner so no amount of oil etc will fix it.
We'll give that a try! And it sounds like the aftermarket stuff is not necessarily a good deal. Other people recommend getting the genuine Toyota one, too.
I did some more looking and it seems there were 2 different cables used in 1986. You will need to search with your vin for the correct one. This is the same part number as the other one I posted and was used only to early 1986
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~cable~assy~throttle~35520-22021.html
This one was used mid 86 to mid 87
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/oem/toyota~cable~assy~throttle~35520-35080.html
Linda S
Thanks so much, Linda! According to the VIN, we need the early 1986 version!
Could have been an expensive mistake, to get the wrong one!
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It can be a pain to swap that out cause you need to get to the valve body and I can't remember if I had to drop part of it but likely not. I could not find one except at Toyota and it did cost around a hundred. Here is a link to a guys woes. http://www.yotatech.com/f116/detent-cable-4-speed-overdrive-1987-toyota-pickup-267336/#post52060964
From that post, it sounds like you have to drop the transmission!
Though he managed to fix it somehow.
What I did, and you could try the same to get you up and running, I disconnected the cable as shown in the above photo, I held the brown rubber boot with my left hand, with my right hand I pushed the cable back in, mine would move after sliding it back and forth a few times, but I could feel no spring return! so then I pushed it all the way back in and then started gradually easing it back out again, I then took the rig for a drive, stopped and tweaked the cable out some more, doing the driving and tweaking several times until the transmission was changing up and down normally, I left the cable disconnected and folded it over on its self and taped it off. see next photo
Thanks, Mike!
I tried moving the cable back in, but it's not moving.
Do you remember, if yours had stoppers? I don't see any on ours, and wonder if this cable just never had any.
Will try to work on it some more in daylight. For now, I sprayed to WD40 into the sheath, to see if it loosens up by tomorrow.
Sure would be nice to at least be able to drive it to a transmission shop safely.
How much did it cost you to get the new cable installed? Did they/you have to drop the transmission, or just the pan?
Is yours the A43D tranny?
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I'd love to find a genuine Toyota part, but have not had any luck.
BTW, when asked for the model, is 1986 pickup the correct choice?
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Nope.
Hm.
Let me try it again here:http://www.jcwhitney.com/american-shifter-company-automatic-transmission-kickdown-cable/p3086554.jcwx?filterid=c3759d2183y1986g2u0j1
Tail Light Wiring?
in Electrical
Posted
Ah, okay!
I'll search out the instructions, if we switch to LEDs.