[HELP PLEASE - Hankook RA08 or Hankook RA18]

Bought 6 Hankook 185r14 8ply 65psi 1800+ load rating tires and have them on my mini for a few years now.

We had a tire get a flat (darn screws in the road) and need to replace one.

Is there any difference to these tires and can I put one of these RA18's on the dually (rear) without any problems?

Here are the pics for each tire, And they seem to have the same specs.....

[Front Brakes Get Very Hot And Drag]

So is there a reason your not taking it back to the guys who did all that work. Seems like they should fix it. Yes master cylinder can get gunked up and not release but doesn't happen suddenly

Linda S

it was happening before we took it to them, As you drive it, it feels like presure is building up in the brake pedal and it gets tighter as the engine heats up. every once in a while it kinda lets go and then tightens up again.

i was just seeing if you guys would give me a second opion before i go back to the same people to try to fix it again. fixing these things is not cheap. lol

i was hoping it was just the calipers and not the master cylinder or the booster.

here's the next question, if i do the master, should i do the brake booster as well? and how much should it cost to have those 2 things changed, apx?

1984 toyota rader 22r

[Front Brakes Get Very Hot And Drag]

When we drive the rv, the front brakes get very hot and you can feel the heat even on the hubcaps. We just had them bled, new calipers, new brake lines from the calipers to the hard brake lines. when we drive, it feels like i am pulling another rv behind us.

So we come to you awesome guys & gals to figure out what could be causing this and how we can fix it right away.

Thank You

is the brakes fluid not releasing, or the master cylinder is bad or brake booster maybe, or brake push rod not right, or sticky brake pads or ?

edit: 1984 toyota rader 4-speed manual motorhome

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

We already have the small breather coming from ebay to go on the front hole.

All we need to do is figure this out with the back hole.

What do these holes do anyway? I assume they bring fresh air in the crankshaft area to push out heat and un burned gases?

And then those gases get re-burned in the engine?

Does this help keep the motor running a little cooler? Does it help with the mileage at all?

And we have been driving our toy for over 2 years with it this way because we had a shop install the weber carb long ago and

that is the way they left it. did we hurt something maybe by it being this way?

sorry for all the questions, we are learning as we go. lol

ok, here is what we have for the booster.

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

I'll try to post pictures of my setup soon. That spring is definitely not hooked up correctly. The back vent goes right where your arrow is pointing, yes. Looks like someone plugged that port. You may need to search a junkyard for parts.

You can connect the front vent to the base of the air filter housing, but a little K&N filter is maybe better. That's what I have anyway.

nice, thank you guys again for all the help

Can't wait to see those pics.

That front hole has been plugged for 2 years, That should have had fresh air going to it all along, yes?

(i assume to help cool the engine crankcase maybe, or to help get out that pressure buildup out)

Did that maybe cause any damage to anything by not getting the fresh air it needed for all this time.

(never going to that guy to fix my truck ever again, seemed like he was not a good as he thinks)

And thanks to you guys here on this forum, we are learning to fix things ourselves.

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

OK you need to start looking at what your have for a setup and not internet pics. You are just confusing yourself.

You need a basic setup. The front vent is the fresh air inlet for the crankcase vent system. The rear vent goes to a vacuum port in the intake manifold. The fumes from the engine crankcase get burned in the engine. Your vent carb out the rear vent and it will make the engine compartment a mess.

In your #11 post the pic has the brass fitting and large rubber hose for the correct

What to do?? the second picture in your original post is the way to go is the simplest way to go.

Plan B is to follow the orginal design. The front vent gets connect to the air cleaner with a bolt on hose fitting so your have clean air going into the engine. The rear vent goes to the fitting on the intake or carb base.

Parts...For air cleaner http://www.ebay.com/itm/Air-Cleaner-Vent-Tube-Fitting-PCV-W-Bolts-And-Gasket-Fits-Most-14-Air-Cleaners-/121736926689?hash=item1c581615e1&vxp=mtr

For simple system...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Air-Breather-Filter-Valve-Cover-Vent-12mm-Red-UNIVERSAL-/140920946067?hash=item20cf8afd93&vxp=mtr

The PCV valve and hoses should be stock Toyota stuff

This is really simple stuff

Thank you guys very much for all the help. Ok i will order the breather in the second link you had to put that on the front hole.

(as for the back hole (i have nothing left from the kit that i had installed 2 years ago, that is all gone.)

So that hole has been open like that for 2 years now

so, what do i have to buy to get that hole to go to the right place?

hose, clamps, etc

the trouble that we are having is ours still has all the emissions stuff still on it and if we ran a hose from the back hole to the ????> LOL

(the part that the hose would connect to does not look anything like what we see in that picture)

sorry, we are new at this

It should go into this area, yes?

Thank you again for all the help, there is just so much extra stuff from the emissions and the old carb left, we are learning as we go.

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

we are having a bugger of a time understanding where they go......

here is what ours looks like.

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

I'm sure parts store would have that piece,has a beveled end where hose fits.I was told this was better than just plugging hole and I've had no problems.The weber carb was best $$ I've spent on my rig!

i agree, had ours for over 2 years now without a single problem. we were just wondering why there is a open hole on the top of the engine like that and why the other one is plugged.

i found these pics online just now and they show another way to use these top holes.....we are pretty lost trying to figure these out. LOL

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

here is the carb contents (i am pretty sure this is what we bought)

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

Yes I have a white PVC connector there with hose hooked to it.

Ok, So it should go under that big breather rather than be plugged, yes?

we don't have that small white pvc piece, is that something extra you have to buy?

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

Sorry,don't know how to send pics on this phone.

Here is what my carb looks like.

In the last picture, you can see that there is a hole under the air filter on the right side. Is this the hole that you are talking about?

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

I have a hose on first vent running under big breather where that white cap is.

any possibility of a picture so i don't screw something up? lol

You are talking about the second picture up there ^ correct?

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

Second one is sorta correct. They put a breather cap on the first vent and a hose and PCV set up on the back vent. The PCV goes to the intake manifold or to a port in the base of the carb

ours is the first picture, what should i do to fix what you see in the picture?

leave the first one alone with the cap, or install a air filter thing like in the second picture?

Back one to the base of the carb?

[Weber Carb Swap 34/36 Install Question]

The 2 ports on the top of an 22r engine (front & back)

Where are these ports supposed to be hooked up to?

(This is how they installed the weber carb 2 years ago, but every picture i see of that engine with the swap has them connected)

As you can see, They plugged the front one and just left the back one open.

note: the first picture is mine, And the second is a picture i found on the internet.

Thanks for your helps guys

[What Part Is This ? Part 2 :)]

Cheapest ones I see are over $300. Not a very common item. I only find them currently listed for Toyota Land Cruisers. I suspect when it comes to Toyota trucks - those sensors were only used in HD units that were sold in California. Just a guess. The purpose of the sensor is to know when the converter gets overheated.

I've been wrong before - but I cannot imagine a way the missing sensor can make your Weber carb, or the engine - run richer and eat more gas. But if you are 100% sure of cause-and-effect, I'd do this. Are the wires that were originally hooked to the sensor now hooked to nothing? If so - tie them together. If they ARE tied together - then separate them and insutate them. My point being - make it the opposite if what it is now. Can't hurt anything by doing this and it's a heck of a lot cheaper then blowing money on a new estoeric temp sensor.

UPDATE: we just checked all of the exhaust that we had put on....

2 inch cat -----> 2 inch straight pipe -----> "1 3/4 muffler"

Did they put the wrong muffler on it and that it why it is acting so weird?

too much air that can't get out fast enough because of the small muffler? Bottle necking at the muffler?

Too much back pressure causing the engine to heat up and lose power maybe?

[What Part Is This ? Part 2 :)]

You went from 15-16 MPG (which is almost unheard of as an average) to 12 MPG? I assume you have stick shift? That's what happens when a choke is stuck half-closed with a carbed system, or an oxygen sensor stops working with EFI. That temp sensor that was in your converter was there to divert air from the emissions air-pump if the converter got too hot. You can run without that sensor and have the emissions system work pretty much the same - if you send a "false" temp signal . Either by just leaving the sensor hooked up and tied out of the way somewhere - or maybe just by tying to the two wires together (not sure of that). I'm not sure because I don't know if that sensor makes less circuit resistance, or more as it gets hotter. If it is less resistance when cold - then just tying those two wires together will "pretend" it is still there.

If you are sure your choke is fully opening when hot - keep an eye on your tail-pipe and see if it gets black soot in it. If so - that is a clear indication of running too rich. With an EFI system - it's means a bad oxygen sensor. But in a carbed system - the oxygen sensor has no effect on how rich the vehicle runs and just controls parts of the emissions system.

On my 1979 280ZX Datsun with the same odd-ball "half charge per rotation" fuel injection system like Toyota has - fuel mileage went from 24 MPG to 16 MPG but it still ran great. Then I noticed the tail-pipe was full of black soot. Sure enough my oxygen sensor had done bad. :Put a new one in and it came right back to 24 MPG and ran just the same.

i forgot to add more info about the mini.

1984 toyota rader, 22r, 4 speed, brand new weber carb not the 38, but the other one. (34 /36 ?)

it ran great and i really did average about 16 miles per gallon. (no jokes) (had the new weber carb on there for about 1-2 years now)

The lowest i got ever was about 15, and then all this just happened with the increase of the engine heat, lower mpg, lack of power on the freeway etc

And this little guy used to just cruise down the freeway at 60-65 no problem at all. now we have problems getting up hills

and then we had the cat removed and replaced and they took out that little sensor thing from the cat and never put it back with the new one.

where can i buy just that and maybe put it back on somehow?

UPDATE: we just checked all of the exhaust that we had put on....

2 inch cat -----> 2 inch straight pipe -----> "1 3/4 muffler"

Did they put the wrong muffler on it and that it why it is acting so weird?

too much air that can't get out fast enough because of the small muffler?

[What Part Is This ? Part 2 :)]

It's a temperature sensor for the air-injection part of the emissions system. Only used in California and NY trucks, I believe.

Ok, well we don't have one right now because the guy took it off when we replaced the cat with a new one.

Is this something that needs to be put back on?

We noticed that when he took that off, the engine was running just a little bit hotter, and it seems to be lacking a little power on the freeway.

Plus, we used to get 15-16 mpg, and now we are down to 12ish.

Or is something else wrong?

There seems to be a place for one on the new cat, there is a small hole that looks like it should go there.

[What Part Is This ? Part 2 :)]

Looks like your vacuum reservoir for your cruise control.

Yep, part of the cruiser control system...aftermarket though

Yes, That is was it was. we threw it away. never used it anyway. (re-ran the vacuum hoses)

Thank you

here is another question for you guys and gals out there.

This is a picture of what we had on our 1984 22r toyota rader. (Pic found from the internet, but ours looked the same)

What is that sensor/probe on the cat? Oxygen? Heat?

We put a new cat on and the new cat does not have that on it so the mechanic just took it off. (Good or bad to not put one back on somehow?)

[What Part Is This ? Part 2 :)]

1984 toyota 22r engine

the plastic broke away from the mount and it was laying on the engine, long story short.....it melted.

[1984 Toyota Rader Exhaust Question]

A few added facts. The 22R or 22RE Toyota has an intake system with a max flow of around 325-330 CFM.

150-200 CFM when doing normal crusing on the highway.

A 1 3/4" exhaust pipe has a flow-rate of around 240 CFM.

A 2" exhaust pipe has a flow rate of around 320 CFM.

A 2 1/4" exhaust pipe has a flow rate of around 400 CFM.

So, in theory - if you drive your Toyota RV with the engine at the absolute max - there is a slight gain with a bigger exhaust. With normal driving, none.

Thank you.

That was some info i was looking for. We cruise this little mini at 60-65 and it runs fine.

with that info, do you think that would help the engine at those speeds?

[1984 Toyota Rader Exhaust Question]

My system...stock to cat converter, then 2" to muffler, then 2.25" for the rest.

Reason is that the local muffler shop doesn't have a mandrel bender. The bender they have reduces the cross section a bit in the corners.

What kind of mpg are you getting with that setup?

Mine has always gotten around 15mpg (The best i ever had was 16.5mpg)

And that was with a cat with holes in it and a muffler that was falling off.

What a 22r get better mpg and horse power just running straight pipe. (i know, it would be very loud)

but i was just wondering.

Setup: 1984 toyota 22r manual 4 speed

[1984 Toyota Rader Exhaust Question]

Thank you for the opinions guys

The cat and everything back is all junk and has to be removed anyway. So i was wondering if i went to 2 1/4 instead i might gain 1 or 2 HP for the freeway.

As all of you know, These toyota rader motorhomes have 22r engine in the older ones and i love these little buggers, You can beat that engine with a stick and it just keeps going, But they don't have much power at all for the task that they have to do with a house on their shoulders, and i figured 1 or 2 HP might help a little on the freeway.

lol

note: Going from 1 7/8" to 2" is almost nothing compared to changing it from 1 3/4" to 2 1/4"
(That would be 1/8" to 1/2") <---- that's eight times the size increase that you had so maybe it would help on the freeway to get that air out of that little engine ?!?!?!?

I was thinking of just running straight pipe to the muffler and call it a day (2 1/4" or 2 /1/2") + NO CAT

What do you guys think?

[1984 Toyota Rader Exhaust Question]

would it help at alll with the horse power & mpg if we put 2.25 inch exhaust pipe in our 1984 toyota rader rv?

Or would it help or hurt with the performance at all?

we have 1 3/4" stock pipe & muffler on there now

thank you.

[1985 Toyota Rader tires]

Thanks guys for all the infomation.

I just checked again, and the tires that are on this thing now are

firestone 440 or something 195 85 r 14 M&S (Front)

firestone 440 or something 185 85 r 14 M&S (Back)

I think they put the wrong tires on this when i bought it from the guy.

I think the tires that he put are there are car tires.

(Good thing i have not driven it since i bought it 1 year ago) (Safety first you know)

[1985 Toyota Rader tires]

I have found these so far........

What do you guys think?

My link

My link 2

But i am still looking to see if there are any more options.

Plus, Are the tires the same all the way around? Front to back?

We have 6 tires on this model and i just want to be 100% sure. (this might be a silly question, But this is my first motorhome)

185r14 (load d) x 6