vrocrider

Thanks folks. Will try to salvage existing seal. Probably will order a small piece of 1994 seal to compare. My challenge will be getting Lexan sourced and cut. Darrel, did you take frame to glass shop to get window cut & fitted? Lexan is a polycarbonate, right? I've had some motorcycle windshields that I believe were poly & had coating to reduce scratching. Anybody have any thoughts on where I could source poly with scratch resistant coating? Thanks.

My understanding along with some experience with synthetics is as follows: 1. Synthetic's great cleaning properties can result in oil leaks in high mileage dirty engines as the oil cleans deposits off seals, gaskets, etc. exposing leak pathways previously hidden by gunk. 2. Synthetic is a lighter weight oil as compared to equivalent dino oil which can result in oil consumption in older engines with build tolerances greater than today's engines. I have personally experienced this issue. I went to semisynthetic in this engine & solved oil consumption problem. I recently purchased an oil friction reduction additive product called Ceratec made by LiquiMoly in Germany. I put it in a 2012 Ford Explorer with 110K miles that sits a lot between drives. After installing this product I could immediately tell the engine has a higher spinning pitch sound indicating less friction when cranking after having sat for several days. I was very very surprised. The stuff is not cheap at $22plus dollars for one 300ML bottle off ebay. Also heard good things about BG MOA but it's more pricey.

Called Mobility RV & they indicated my seal part number 002281-01-000 is no longer available. The part number you listed 099154-01-000 is available. Any thoughts on how to figure out if I can make this work? You've convinced me to go Lexan. Do you have dimensions? Did you make it or have someone make it for you? Where can you buy sheets of Lexan? Is it available tinted? The butyl tape is listed on Winne parts list as 5/16 in width. From pictures looks like you used something wider. What color & width do you recommend? Thanks.

!991 Winne Warrior. Replacing front center clearance light. The factory wiring appears to be #12 or #14 size wire. Can't get wire to thread through plastic base into metal press fit keeper. Looks like it's set up for smaller #18 wire. Replacement unit same as original. Any trick to get this to work. Thanks.

Thanks all. Nice rig Darrel! Question, why did you choose the Lexan plastic? is it tinted? I have gone glass route because the plastic I now have is warped. Might reconsider the plastic. My 91 WW is a WT321RB. MaineErik's picture & parts list is same as mine except one item. My parts PDF has 2 listings. It offers a second key 4 #002281-02-000 weatherstrip .06" x .125. This is .11" thicker than the other offering. Do I need to replace weatherstrip only? What is the key 3 #069640-06-000 ribbon sealer? Thanks again.

Thanks Linda. The Winnebago parts PDF describes the seal as .06 panel x 3/16 inch. Has a picture but can't seem to copy & paste. Half moon look on front & grooves on top & bottom. Will send picture tomorrow.

Thanks Linda. I have inside screws. I'll take a picture of seal & post it. Do you know what I can do to make the silicone removal easier? When I go back in with seal do I use any adhesive with seal against fiberglass filon body? If I do it myself can you recommend a brand of window adhesive? Is there any plastic film I can apply to outside of glass to help it survive road trash impacts? Thanks.

Presently has warped plastic with cracks that has leaked. Have tinted tempered glass replacement. Old seal has a bunch of silicone. Would like to replace seal. Anybody know part number for seal? Thinking I'll remove the frame and install glass off the vehicle. Thoughts on materials I need & how to do this? Thanks.

I'd try the carb cleaner spray trick Robert suggested. Jealous you called & immediately got him on the phone. Few times I called he's busy & has to call back. You've struck gold with Robert. Most knowledgeable car guy I've heard on the radio & I've listened to quite a few. Seems like a really good person too. Thanks for pictures on distributor. I think I'm off a tooth because I'm at extreme adjustment on distributor to get to 10 degrees.

My guess is for a variety of reasons Skeeter & crew are pricing the job so you go elsewhere or tackle it yourself. Recognize it's great S is replying to your emails. I strongly suggest you call the show Saturday to make contact with at least 2 & possibly 3 of the best mechanics in Houston. Start a relationship that you can draw on as you continue on this journey. Givens: 1.) no CEL light. 2.) Engine shows no performance loss when plug wire #4 pulled. All other cylinders show performance loss when plug wire pulled. 3.) Compression checks good on cylinder # four. If yes this eliminates burned tight valve/cylinder head issues 4.) Spark plug #4 showing fire when engine turned over. You can take an extra spark plug (leaving existing plug in engine block) & hook boot to plug with plug grounded against engine block & turn engine over to verify spark. If the above correct my next check would be to check if fuel getting to cylinder #4. Since you replaced injectors I would NOT suspect bad injector. My first check would be to verify the injector is being pulsed electrically. You could do this by putting a screw driver on injector body #4 and listening for clicking noise as engine is turned over. There are you tube videos showing this. Unfortunately this requires pulling intake plenum to access injector. There maybe some device that you could insert into the cylinder where plug goes that changes state when exposed to gasoline. Ask parts stores or Skeeter if they know of some thing. Keep us updated.

Oreilleys has an ignition tester $6.49 part # W86554 by Performance Tool. The idea is one end has plug cap & the other end receives plug wire coming from distributor. It has a chamber that lights up verifying power to plug. Check all plugs for fire.

Sorry distributor didn't help. Note, it is easy to get distributor change off by a tooth. Truck will still start & run just not right. This was my experience. I rolled it back a tooth in the direction where I thought I might be off. I reset timing with a timing light & I was good to go. With this in mind I suggest you get timing light. You need this to set your ignition timing which must be reset since you have moved the distributor. Also, since you suspect issue with plug #4, put the magnetic pickup for the light on plug wire 4 to verify that it is receiving an electrical charge or light pulse on your timing light. Note, if you marked your old distributor body location on mount & returned it to the exact same place then the timing should not have changed. If you are using new distributor all bets are off & you must reset timing. For a cylinder to produce power you need fuel, fire(ignition) & compression. It seems you've verified compression. The timing light will allow you to verify ignition on plug 4. If that's OK I would investigate fuel delivery to plug 4. To do this I would remove plug cap to plug #4 & turn engine over a few times to "wet" the plug with fuel. Immediately pull the plug and look for signs of fuel on plug tip. Results of this should give you some direction. My apologies if what have I suggested has already been done. I have had difficulty moving between the 8 pages on the EGR topic. My suggestion, stay focused on miss & ignore exhaust leak for now. FYI I too have an exhaust leak under the hood on the passenger side.

Agree with you. Typo error on 36K. I've seen 60K & 70K on internet. Don't have access to factory service manual. Couldn't get pdf to work.

I'm no longer in Houston. Need to update my profile. Recently moved to the Alabama gulf coast. Don't miss Houston. Very surprised about the treatment you received at Skeeters. I've had them do some stuff that others didn't do right and was very pleased. Several different cars over several years. Only down side is per hour rate is close or at dealer rate. Up side is they know what they're doing & you won't waste time or money guessing what will fix problem. An alternate to email I'd suggest you call the radio show Saturday & talk to Skeeter & Robert. Let Skeeter know you'd like to bring it in for timing belt & valve maintenance work. Ask him how much $. Show is every Saturday 12 - 2PM on KSEV. From a trouble shooting point of view I actually think Robert is the best. Only problem is his shop is in Katy. I've never been to his shop. My rig has low mileage (65K) and I'm assuming my valves were done when the head gasket recall was performed. I did not own vehicle when this was performed. A Google search indicates Toyota factory service manual suggests valve adjustment is every 60K miles or 36 months. The valve train design is such that if clearance get too tight the valve will not close completely & you then have a condition that could create a burned valve. Forums I read indicate the exhaust valve is most at risk. Suggestion...call Toyota corporate with VIN number in hand. I believe they should be able to produce date/mileage/dealership-shop where head gasket repair was done. Compare that info against where you are today (125K miles) to know how urgent you need to get valves checked. As you probably know burned valves means the cylinder heads have to come off for repair. Also note you have what's called a non interference design motor. That means if your timing belt were to break it will not hurt the engine. Like Maineah said put the distributor in & let us know how it goes.

I'm optimistic the distributor will solve your problem. If Skeeter hasn't already told you look for cracked vacuum lines too.

This design engine typically burns the exhaust valve and or valve seat due to poor maintenance on valve clearances. I was say low odds valve spring failure based on others' experiences with this engine. How many miles are on this engine? I assume it's had the head gasket update done by Toyota?

Hang in there. Between forums & Car Doctor call in you'll get it fixed. If worst case you have to take it to Skeeter 100% guarantee he'll fix it. I have personal experience. Only negative is he's like any professional, he gets paid for his time. He's reasonable but not cheap.

There are alot of V lines near where the EGR was. Not to confuse you or side track you but I found something that might interest you on Yotatech.com. Ok 3VZE owners, check it out. I know a lot of ppl have had these exact symptoms with no relief. I hate when i see a topic that isn't updated LONG after you know someone must have fixed the problem, and I think this is a somewhat valuable update so here ya are:Symptoms: Rough or slow idle, surging during acceleration, setting codes 71 and 52, fires up but dies quickly, or sometimes not at all running rich, jumpy timing weak, intermittent, or sometime no spark at all.My problem was: Circuit I15 (hopefully you all have access a wiring diagram) had a nasty spot it in. It is a piece of shielded wire that goes from the ecm, to the dist., and is actually integrated with the EGR GTS (code 71) the knock sensor (code 52) the o2 sensor, the tps, the circuit opening relay and a couple of essential things. I'll stop there. The solution: Hooked auto ranging DMM (digital multi meter) from + batter terminal, to a section of shielded wire on the end of the line, right before the pigtial the connects to the distributor (battery totally unhooked of course. Poked, prodded, pushed, pulled until I came to the big bundle of wires that is in the rh side of engine compartment. Grabbed em and pulled a bit and WOW, the dmm resistance reading went crazy. I didn't know I had found the problem, but I knew it needed fixing. I then found that the fat grey wires connect DIRECTLY to junction block CM2 I think (for your reference). Did some testing and found that there had been previous problems before (unless it came tape like hell from the factory, who knows).Under the plastic wire shroud right in front of the fan, the I15's RED wire, which is G1 to the dist, had broken insulation, and wire internally corroded (as were the other 3). I cut out the section of wire, and saw it to be unfixble. I went to Home Depot and WOW, the happened to have shielded wire EXACTLY like what i needed. They even have it on a huge spool for 38c a foot for those who may be wondering. I cut the wire back a few inches and rewired it to the dist pigtail and plugged it in, using foil and a big piece of shrink wrap to keep continuity on the shielded portion.Buttoned everything else up, hopped in, turned key, and WOW, this trucks runs WAYYYY better and smoother than it EVER HAS.SO, if thread helps anyone out there, let us all know! So far one person other than myself has been overcome with relief.Happy again 3vze owner

Like you I replaced my fuel injectors because my F filter was trashed like yours & RV sat for 5 years. Both Skeeter & Robert discouraged replacing injectors. I was unfortunately swayed by another guy. New injectors didn't work. While I waited for my distributor I did some research on injectors & discovered each one has a fine mesh metal filter on the inlet side. Google rebuilding injectors & you'll see a bunch of you tube videos. I pulled every injector filter & each one was perfect. Very surprising. Only then was I convinced the distributor would solve my problem which it did.

Another suggestion. Lots of posts but as of today it appears you are getting ONLY code 71. I had no CEL check engine light so I don't want to send down the road of replacing distributor when your computer is clearly telling you there is an issue in EGR system. You may have an ignition too but I'd start by addressing the code 71 issue. GOOGLE 3VZE code 71 & you'll a lot of posts on YotaTech.com & ToyotaNation.com. Some of these are very technical & go into great detail on how to check for fault code 71. Skeeter is great but the best is Robert who's owner of AutoTectronics in Katy. You can send Skeeter an email via Texas Car Doctor on internet & he'll respond. There guys are very very good but if you digest what's on the forums you'll be way ahead of the game. If you have the time & patience I'd do the Google & call the show on Saturday & post here for support. Good luck.

This was pulled from Toyotanation.com forum. I found this excellent for folks trying to maintain the Toyota V6 3VZE engine. I bought my 89 V6 4x4 X-cab in 1995 at 107k miles and now 14 years and 173k miles later, it's still going strong, so you could get a lot of years of good service out of that truck. Having said that, the 3VZE has a reputation of being a trouble-plagued motor. They aren't all like that - mine isn't (except for the headgasket replacement at 218k) - but enough of them are to give reason for caution. In addition to the head gasket problem, which every 3VZE will eventually encounter, many of them also suffer from burnt exhaust valves. A possible cause of that is valves that stretch over time, reducing clearance until they fail to fully close. I had the valves adjusted at 125k (a year after I bought my truck) and found some of the valves had significantly less clearance than spec. I adjusted them again when I replaced my head gaskets at 218k miles. I've never had burnt exhaust valves (knocking on wood!) and I recommend you have the valves adjusted, too. The exception would be if the head gaskets were changed, in which case the valves should have been adjusted then. Perhaps checking them every 70-80k miles would be good insurance. This is a job for a well-equipped shop as it takes a special tool and is a challenging job. Other areas of maintenance you can expect (at some point, but hard to say when) is the starter contacts wearing until it justs clicks when you turn the key (that's an inexpensive fix but getting at the starter - Oy! that's another story), needing to replace the shift bushings (very easy and cheap - should be done when you replace that clutch), having the occasional sensor fail (with the engine running roughly as a result), possibly needing to replace the distributor, and being at risk of having your catalytic converter sawed off of your truck (you'll have the dubious honor of having a truck with a converter packed with more valuable precious metals than normal - and in cities there are those who won't be able to resist). That's on top of the normal tune ups and replacing parts that periodically fail like battery, alternator etc. Still, all of that is in the context of the legendary longevity of Toyotas. If you're lucky and take good care of the truck, you can have a reasonable expectation of getting another 200k miles out of it. Mileage: The 3VZE is not known for either efficiency nor power, but there is something you can do to improve both by a significant margin: replace the stock muffler with a well-designed turbo style cat-back exhaust. When I installed a Borla system in 1996 (no longer available, unfortunately) my highway miles went from 20 to 24, a 20% increase. Power increased by about the same - a very significant jump in power. I think of the products available now, Flowmaster makes a decent one that is similar to the Borla. Pinging: Mine had a really persistent pinging problem and nothing seemed to help it. It laughed at premium gas and retarding the timing, as well as all manner of fuel injector cleaners, gas additives, spark plugs and diagnostics. I finally gave up looking for the cause. Then a couple years ago I replaced my distributor because of bushing squeal when cold. Imagine my shock and delight when it completely cured the pinging problem. I guess the signal generating coil that sends crank position signals to the ecu (explained below) wasn't working properly. Speaking of gas, the 3VZE was designed to run on - and runs best on - 87 octane. Mine doesn't like Texaco or Mobil fuels very much, so I avoid them. Clutch - when I replaced mine at about 165k miles, I bought Toyota parts. Those are still going strong at 280k miles, so that's a safe option. Many people here swear by the Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Clutch Kit. Here's a nice thread from someone who just installed one of those: cpmike : 1992 Pickup SR5 V6 4x4 (ext cab) Plugs - Hands down, my engine does the best on the factory spec Denso K16R-U. They're available at Autozone for less than $1.50 each. Plug Wires - When you need them, only get the Toyota wires. They are excellent quality and come with all the keepers, have cylinder numbering and fit perfectly. I once made the mistake of trying a fancy aftermarket brand and they sucked by comparison. I was glad to get rid of them and switch back to the Toyota ones a few years later. Timing - spec is 10 degrees with a jumper attached between terminals TE1 and E1 in the gray diagnostic connector, but many people do better with a bit more advance. 12 degrees is very common and probably a better setting for the 3VZE. Some run 14 degrees and get snappier throttle response and some more low end torque but sacrifice a bit of mileage and also emissions suffer some. In fact when getting an emissions test, set it back at 10. Oil Filter - Many opinions, but the Toyota filters have more surface area than most of the aftermarkets. It's a very good quality filter, and you can usually negotiate a good deal with the dealer if you buy a bunch of 'em. Air Filter - I replaced my intake with a K&N system, but I don't recommend you do the same. I saw no improvement in mileage or power. For air filter, I again recommend the Toyota ones. There is an alternative to the K&N known as the "ISR" mod (Intake Silencer Removal). It is documented over at the yotatech forum. Transmission Gear Oil - very important - our transmissions do NOT do well with the current standard GL-5 gear oils. It's too slippery and the synchros don't work, making for very hard shifting. You need a GL-4 fluid, and the one nearly every Toyota techie recommends is the Red Line MT-90 which is a synthetic 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_g...7&categoryID=7 The differentials and transfer case, however, do better with a GL-5. Red Line makes several good synthetic GL-5 oils, this is a popular one: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_g...5&categoryID=6 Cracked dash - if yours isn't cracked yet get some Armor All on there! Otherwise it will most definitely crack. Speedometer cable - will get dry, leading to noise and the speedo needle waving back and forth. You can usually get by with lubricating it, search the forum for info when that time comes. Headlights - wait till you have to change one of these (sinister chuckle). You have to take off the grille, which is a lot of fun! Several of the people on the forum here swear by their Hella e-code light housings, and I have to say they do look pretty cool, not to mention making the removal of the grille unnecessary when changing out a bulb... http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=744 Brakes - our trucks don't have the best brakes in the world, especially if you get oversized tires. Good pads are a must. The Hawks are very good, if a bit dusty. tirerack.com sells em at a good price. The Toyota pads are semi-metallic and work well. I bought Powerslot rotors two years ago, which are slotted Brembo rotors, and I like them a lot. A little vibration on hard stops but much better bite. Got those at tirerack too. Timing Belt - change at about 70k miles. But if yours does break, you'll be happy to know the 3VZE is a non-interference motor - the pistons can't reach the valves if the belt breaks. Get the Toyota belts - they have timing marks on them while the aftermarket brands don't. If you pay someone to do the work, I suppose it doesn't so much matter, except that the belt on this engine is tricky to get lined up. You have to give the motor two full clockwise rotations and check it to see if the marks still line up. Often one of the cam pulleys is off a tooth. Make sure your mechanic has experience with this motor. If your idler and tensioner pulleys were not changed with the last belt change, replace 'em. The stock water pump is a very simple and VERY durable Aisin. My current one (also an Aisin) has about 160k miles on it and has seen a lot of rusty coolant! Gotta love that Japanese engineering. I will be replacing it with my next timing belt change in about 5-8k miles. I mention it here because it's behind the timing belt and so you need to figure out if you need a new pump when you change the belt. Wheel Hub maintenance - I'm hoping your truck has the wonderful Aisin manual hubs, and if so, take care of them by periodically cleaning and greasing them. Same goes for the front wheel bearings, of course. Take care of those, and they'll last well beyond 300,000 miles. Speaking of lasting, I'm still on my original ball joints, and they're still tight. How, I have no idea. But they are. ANTIFREEZE - VERY Important - glad I didn't forget this. Don't make the same mistake I did by using the green antifreeze. One day I looked and my coolant had turned completely rusty. The green stuff contains silicates and japanese engines hate silicates. If the coolant gets tired your block will very badly corrode. Stick with the Toyota Red coolant, which has a very different chemistry made especially for your motor. If the truck currently has green, yellow or orange coolant, you have to be very careful to thoroughly flush all traces out of it with several changes of water before filing with 50-50 Toyota Red and DISTILLED water. The different coolant types do NOT mix well. Also, tap water will cause scale and can cause corrosive byproducts to form. Stick with distilled water only. Your last flush should likewise be with distilled water, as some will remain in the heater core and various nooks and crannies. There is a draincock on the side of the motor and it helps to pull the heater hose to get a good flush. Thermostat - make sure you have only a Toyota 180 degree thermostat in there. It should be changed when you change coolant, since you have to remove it anyway to get a good flush.. Spare tire winch - went to use mine a few years ago and it was frozen SOLID! Oh, what an enormous F-ing pain in the behind that was. I strongly recommend lowering your spare and spraying a good waxy water-repelling lube like Boeing's Boeshield T-9 in there. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-...dp/B001447PEK/ Speaking of frozen, have someone work the parking brake back and forth while you look on the inside of both back wheels to make sure the parking brake levers move freely. Hit them with a little Boeshield too. I replaced a frozen one of those two years ago. You may already know, but don't run your gas too low in the tank - as with most fuel injected vehicles, the fuel pump is in the tank and uses fuel for cooling. I try to keep mine over 1/4 full. Brake fluid - as you may already know, you can get the most life out of your calipers, wheel cylinders, clutch slave cylinder and master cylinders by flushing your fluid with fresh good quality DOT 4 fluid every 2-3 years. Bleeding is turned into a very easy, almost fun job with a set of speed bleeders - replacement bleed fittings that have check valves in them that prevent air from getting sucked in. They enable you to bleed the brakes by yourself. Again, if you won't be doing this work they're unnecessary, but if you want to get them, I finally found good ones after two sets of lousy ones: http://www.raceshopper.com/speed_bleeders.shtml The same vendor sells excellent fluids at very good prices, and carries excellent pads and rotors too. Keeping the 3VZE running at in top form may require you to learn a little about how the computerized engine control systems work. Here is a very brief run-down: The ecu (called the ecm in toyota literature) receives a bunch of information about engine conditions from a variety of sensors, then sends out pulses to control spark and fuel injection. The most important sensors are the following, and the motor won't run right unless they are all functioning properly: ECT - Engine Coolant Temp sensor, located on the top of the motor in the back, just in front of the firewall and half under the plenum (along with 3-4 other sensors) It changes resistance when the motor reaches operating temp. When the motor is cold, the ecu operates in "Open Loop" mode which means it uses mainly preset values for mixture and it ignores the Oxygen sensor. When the ECT signals operating temp, the ecu goes into "Closed Loop" mode and uses all the sensors' input to calibrate the fuel and timing. VAFM - Volume Air Flow Meter - what the 3VZE has instead of a mass air sensor. It's the big metal thing attached to the air filter housing. It contains a trap door-like vane that measures the air flow into the motor. It has to open some to close a ground for the relay that controls the fuel pump. No air flow, no fuel pressure. It also measures intake air temperature. TPS - Throttle position sensor - measures throttle position (duh) but also has an idle signal when the throttle is closed that wasn't working on my truck and it ran rough at idle. Took two years to find the pesky tps and when replaced the truck began to purr at idle and still does now 12 years later. Oxygen Sensor - in the exhaust pipe just in front of the cat. Must be replaced at least every 90k miles, or sooner if it has been gunked up by something evil. Gives the ecu the info needed to set the mixture right. Crankshaft Position Sensor - is actually part of the distributor. There are a series of cam-like projections on two metal rotors (called signal rotors) under the distributor's rotor (the one you replace at tune-up). There are three coils called signal coils or signal generating coils that send signals to the ecu as the signal rotors rotate past. These signals provide the signals used by the ecu to control spark timing and advance. There are other sensors, such as EGR gas temp sensor, knock sensor, vehicle speed sensor etc., but the above are the main ones and problems with any of them will cause the motor to not run right. There are procedures and specs for testing all of them in the factory manual. If you don't have an fsm, google 1993 toyota pickup service manual That will give you 98% correct info. There were a few changes between 91 and 93 including the timing belt idler arrangement, slightly different throttle body and slightly different distributor, but almost everything else is identically the same. There is a great Automotive Training and Resource Site that has technical articles explaining the operation of most systems in Toyota engines. It includes info on newer and more advanced motors, but there's a lot of good info on the 3VZE type motor controls, too. Follow the link for Technical Articles: http://autoshop101.com/ PARTS SUPPLIERS: You usually can't beat the OEM Toyota parts for quality and longevity. Fortunately, there's a dealer in Washington State that sells online at a huge discount: http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/ Sometimes you can get the OEM brand of part (Denso, Aisin etc) from other sources for less even than the very discounted 1sttoyota prices. A very good source is http://www.autohausaz.com, another is http://www.rockauto.com. Rockauto also carries Beck/Arnley parts, which come from a variety of OEMs, many of them japanese. Sometimes a junkyard part is just what the doctor ordered, and there is a great portal for hundreds of salvage yards: http://car-part.com/

The critical check on the ignition system is a clean on/off fire on each spark plug wire. My system didn't pass so I focused on distributor which solved problem. If you get the same failure of the timing light strobe NOT to on/off on each wire then I agree I wouldn't waste time doing ohm test on distributor. Note I had no CEL. Just noticed you are in Cypress, Tx. Great source of information can be gained from Texas Car Doctor call in show on KSEV AM700 Houston on Saturdays 12 - 2PM. Skeeter's & Robert offer a wealth of info on the air. You can also call them direct at shop. I live in Alabama now but I still listen every Saturday via internet.

No, not in timing mode. Connected timing light to each plug wire looking for crisp on off flash. Didn't find correct flash on some cylinders which convinced me it was distributor. Yota tech forums has a lot of info on this. Tested my original Denso distributor & 2 aftermarket distributors and none completely passed the ohm test. Yota forums indicated you might find this to be the case. Ended up getting the Spectra Premium distributor with life time warranty through Rock Auto $135. Oreilley's has this too. The Spectra is made in Taiwan while other off ebay was China. Taiwan Spectra unit much better quality on appearance & function. It appears distributor failure on a V6 3VZE is fairly common per Yota Tech Forums.

Anybody know of a spray paint color that's close to 1991 factory charcoal grey grill & bumper? Thanks.