vrocrider
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Posts posted by vrocrider
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Thanks for research Linda!
Local Winnebago RV dealer told me they use a product available at Home Depot / Lowes call Thermo Ply made by Ox Building Materials. 4 x 8 sheet $13, 1/8 inch thick. Data sheet indicates it is a treated cellulose based product with foil on one side and a plastic type finish on other. Told used in the building trade as a backer board to brick. Water resistant ratings but not water proof. Stiff but flexible product.
Total filon piece is 48 x 83. Gluing backing pieces consisting of 1/8 luan for 10 inches, Thermo Ply 17 inches, 1/8 Luan for 21 inches. This piece will eliminate the window.
Traveling in unchartered waters for me. Suggestions welcomed!
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Hello. Happy New Year.
Back on this project. Hemet Valley RV in California makes what I need...filon laminated to scored plastic where sharp curve happens over cab roof and luan wood on the remaining area. Looking for a supplier closer to Alabama gulf coast.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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Thanks Linda. Not too good on posting pictures.
Trying to think "outside the box" I'm thinking of going with plastic lattice from big box using plastic u shaped ends to hold lattice at side rails. Result should be 2.5 ft. curved lattice to support filon.
Any thoughts or better ideas?
Thanks.
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Previous posts back in the spring focused on cab over rebuild using existing window/windshield. Back on the project & have decided to eliminate window and go back with solid Filon.
Winnebago used grooved styro foam board in the curved area above the cab. I have the original grooved foam glued to the curved plastic interior trim per the factory set up. I'm having difficulty figuring out how to reassemble using the factory curved styro foam. Anybody have any experience with this?
Thanks.
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Sorry to hear the news.
Hang in there. This can be solved.
As I mentioned in one of my previous posts I'd call the Texas Car Doctor show this Saturday on KSEV Houston, Tx. Or call direct the best mechanic I know & on he's on the show. Robert, owner of AutoTectronics in Katy Tx. He'll talk to you or your mechanic if you call his shop. Just appreciate he's running a business & appreciate his time. He may have to call you back.
I called the radio show a while back for you. They gave some ideas & wanted to know if solved. One that comes to mind is clogged exhaust. Don't recall if you've tried to run the motor with exhaust disconnected.
Call him. It will cost you only your time.
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Sorry to hear the news.
Hang in there. This can be solved.
As I mentioned in one of my previous posts I'd call the Texas Car Doctor show this Saturday on KSEV Houston, Tx. Or call direct the best mechanic I know & on he's on the show. Robert, owner of AutoTectronics in Katy Tx. He'll talk to you or your mechanic if you call his shop. Just appreciate he's running a business & appreciate his time. He may have to call you back.
I called the radio show a while back for you. They gave some ideas & wanted to know if solved. One that comes to mind is clogged exhaust. Don't recall if you've tried to run the motor with exhaust disconnected.
Call him. It will cost you only your time.
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Nice rig.
Did you do the front window removal? I'm doing this now & need help.
Thanks.
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Called my radio mechanics. Their suggestions:
1.) verify temp gauge. Shoot IR gun near where temp sensor plugs into system or install 2nd gauge.
2.) Verify base timing. Verify timing advancing with RPM increase.
3.) Clogged muffler/cat converter. This would also cause a loss in power.
Good luck.
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Infrared IR no touch temperature gun's are not too expensive. Quick way to verify temps.
Fan clutch...My Toy V6 has stock hydraulic actuated fan clutch. Typically this design very bullet proof. Years ago on a jeep went from stock hydraulic to aftermarket with I don't know what type design. Had to go back to stock hydraulic because aftermarket fan pulled too much air at speed. Sounded like a jet turbine & I'm sure was detrimental to MPG. I'd think the opposite could take place where aftermarket could slip too much & not pull enough air.
TESTING FC...
The second problem a fan clutch can have is the opposite problem. The clutch fails to engage no matter how hot the engine becomes. This condition will cause the engine to overheat because the fan fails to pull the necessary air through the radiator that cools the engine by the use of the systems coolant. This problem can be detected by listening to the fan while the engine is running and hot, you should be able to hear the fan engage. If you do not hear the fan start working shut the engine off and open the hood. Try to spin the fan clutch it should give a fair amount of resistance. If the fan just freewheels the clutch inside the fan has gone bad and should be replaced to prevent engine damage due to overheating. This problem will also degrade the operation of the air conditioner as well due to the lack of air being pulled through the condenser of the system.
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I'd review the specs closely on new radiator vs. old replacement. New ones typically are cheap aluminum & come in all different flavors. I just had my original copper cleaned & pressure tested. $85 I spent would have bought a new aluminum.
Might want to be thinking of block freeze plug removal to inspect for rust crude inspection. My guess is this is where your problem is if radiator specs check out OK.
If clogged might ask radio folks about cooling system cleaner & replace fan clutch with electric fans. Perhaps a cheap alternative to opening motor.
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Take to plastic grill/cover off the inside to access nameplate for A/C. Use model number to get exact gasket replacement. You have to remove grill to replace gasket so no wasted effort.
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Can email or call in this Saturday on the radio show KSEV for free help from some of the best mechanics I've talked to in the SE & SW USA. Texascardoctor.com. Usually 2 to 3 mechanics on live radio show 12 - 2PM CST.
Haven't read in detail all the posts but did you install OEM W pump & fan clutch or good aftermarket? If not might want to change WP/clutch. Otherwise seems like you"ll have to remove head & inspect passage ways.
I'd sure contact Skeeter on radio for solution. He's helped me & my friends many times.
Good luck.
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I put 2 new gaskets in a few years back. One stacked on other. If I recall correctly reason was to get A/C up off roof so crude wouldn't accumulate so much.
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Removed cab over wide window. New Filon from just below clearance lights down to crossover metal bar above cab. Anybody have experience with this type repair? Not sure in what order it's best to put back together. Plan to glue luan & curved foam piece on fiberglass then install. Any input welcomed.
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Replacing vinyl insert trim in cab overhang. Existing measures 7/8" pushed flat, 3/4" with curve functioning, 3/16" "wings" on each side. Anybody have suggestion on what to buy & color. Factory seem to be off white, antique white.
See there's offerings in narrow, regular, & heavy duty. Polar white & colonial white.
Thoughts on what to buy that will fit in existing aluminum trim?
Thanks.
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I've noticed the over the cab curved area uses a grooved Styrofoam under the filon FRP skin. Anybody know a source for this?
Thanks.
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I have a small area in the cab over near the roof that is damaged. Roughly 4" x 10" from the corner seam over to the center. The filon in this area has no wood backing and is laid over foam.
My plan is to cut damaged filon so I have straight lines. Remove any loose foam. I'll insert epoxy and fiberglass cloth just under the Filon surface and fill any voids under cloth with spray foam from a can. I'll trace opening I have created and cut a new piece of Filon to fit in hole supported by fiberglass cloth. I'll epoxy in new Filon.
Does this sound like a good plan? Suggestions? I've done some body work before but no fiberglass work.
Thanks.
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Rebuilding overhang area. Decided to replace section of fiberglass that goes underneath overhang on top of truck cab. Got a tear when scraping off remnants of Luan & can't get a good clean surface I can use for bonding.
I'm considering Crane brand that appears to be big supplier to RV OEMs. Titan Supply on ebay lists a type Crane AWF88 that's .045 thick at around $15 per sq. ft. Much cheaper is an Amazon listing for Crane AWF85-5 .040 thick from PPL in Tx. at $3.75 foot. Familiar with PPL & surprised they offer this. Maybe old stock.
Unable to see either catalog number on Crane web site.
Anybody know what type skin type I should use?
Thanks.
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On 4/3/2017 at 1:55 AM, benfrogg said:
Yes, although shipping the whole window might be pricey if it's over the normal shipping limitations.
The window itself is in fair shape. The outer frame has black moldy caulking covering most of it. I don't think it leaks between metal and glass... I think someone was trying to solve a leak without understanding where the water was getting in.... most of the main leak up front was coming from the seams and penetrations further up the roof. The glass is dirty. I'll have to clean it up to know it's full condition. The inner frame is in decent shape.
To anyone else interested in parts:
I have one of the large side windows, lots of cabinet hardware/doors including the glass doors above the fridge. I kept all the appliances, sink, you name it. If it was still useful, I kept it.
Interested in window. Do you know dimension? Thanks.
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Suggestions on what glue to use on more than spot repairs? Seems like I saw a post for West Marine epoxy but can't find it now. Going to replace the wood in the overhang.
Also, what to use to clean backing of fiberglass?
Thanks.
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1 hour ago, alnav5 said:
Okay everybody, here's a pic of the hose and I have to agree with the claims adjuster that those sure look like rat bites. Additionally, the rat chewed a bit on the battery terminal protector cover. Mechanic was there and confirmed that the bite marks on both items look same.
I can't blame Progressive at this point because this issue is listed as an exclusion in my policy.
Thanks to all for ideas/comments. Again, I only posted this to let folks know to check the exclusions that may exist in their policies.
Derek, after the fire, we replaced the gas line but it wouldn't start so put back the original one. The pic below looks like a water hose due the fact I got so close and due to deterioration/heat.
Thanks again.
The oxidized banjo bolt at the bottom of the picture is connecting the main metal fuel line to the fuel rail. There's one in the front & back of fuel rail. I was there a few weeks back on my 3VZE V6 when I changed the injectors.
If I looked at the picture without knowing the story I'd swear the rubber hose is carrying coolant to keep intake manifold at a desired elevated temp. Rusted factory hose clamp is typical for coolant connection. I believe I had to remove a line similar to that in pictures that bled coolant when I removed plenum. A write up in shop manual should cover this & show pictures.
Did you pull the rubber hose off & smell for gas? If yes then only thing I can think of is it may be part of a supplemental cold start fuel flow system. If gas there just don't see how the hose is in the condition it shows when surrounded by flame.
I'm not trying to push you to fight a battle with insurance. As you said earlier, you posted just to let others know about insurance issue. That's good.
If it were me I'd still be digging.
I'm on this forum to be educated & educate others from my experience. I don't have to tell you fire is a serious thing. I'll be looking for that hose tomorrow & check it's health if it truly is carrying fuel.
Best of luck on this.
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Since you seem confident you have heated fluid I'd change it. Cheap insurance.
It's my understanding that today's Toyo trans fluid spec is 100% synthetic. Synthetic offers superior resistance to heat degradation. I believe I used Valvoline Import Trans fluid that showed it met Toyota spec purchased at Walmart. Price was reasonable. This was for my car. My RV is manual.
The newer Toyo cars use a fine mesh screen filter. Not sure what the 87 has. If you got red fluid I think you could pass on filter change.
When will I85 bridge repair be completed?
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On 4/4/2017 at 1:40 AM, linda s said:
It's gel coat not the fiberglass itself. Like paint cracking. Not major damage and will never leak because of it. Paint over it with some spray paint if it really bothers you but whose looking at the roof. Oh and the Dicor stuff is probably intended for newer Rv's with super thin fiberglass siding over a wood frame . Not the fat boat stuff ours is made from. Best cleaning for a Sunrader is Bar Keepers Friend then polish with Zep floor polish from Home Depot. Look at this shiny Sunrader. Belongs to another member here who cleaned his like that.
Linda S
Like the chrome wheel rings. Anybody know the source? Assume they're 14 inch.
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Curious to know what material folks are using in their Toyo RVs cab over front facing windshield. Glass or Lexan (polycarbonate)?
Experienced auto glass guy here that can supply either says glass seals against potential water leaks better than poly. Poly offers less chance of breakage from road rash. Today's poly has scratch resistant coating & offers protection against UV vs. yesterday's product.
Thanks for input.
Engine light is on. mechanic say system is running too lean. What is that means?
in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.
Posted
Run a bottle of Techron fuel injector cleaner through the system. Follow instructions EXACTLY paying special attention to one bottle to 15 gallons or less & insert at empty before filling. Bet you'll be pleasantly surprised.