a2ndopinion
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Posts posted by a2ndopinion
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I was wondering if it would be possible to build a slide out, and obviously it's possible, but how much weight does that add to an already marginal GVWR?
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Sounds like a great trip. Almost makes me wish I were still in SoCal - almost!
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If it comes down to it, I have a friend in Ohio who owns a shop. He knows the 2xR motors quite well, and is honest and fair. If need be, message me and I can hook you up.
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The only replacement radiators that I know of that are aluminum have plastic tanks, and that sucks. Unless you go some sort of custom aftermarket... In my Corona wagon, I'm running a late '60s Mustang small block "aluminum racing radiator". It is a three row, and does a good job. It just might fit a truck as well, although I think a factory type brass three core should be more than adequate.
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I don't think you can adjust the front torsion system up high enough to match a 4x4 height in the back. Lots of members have been looking for more clearance but I've never seen an easy answer especially for the front
Linda S
From a good friend of mine who knows Toy trucks, especially 4x4s very well:
"You can only get at max 3-4in lift but that will also up the spring rate tremendously and you'll hate the ride. It's about a 10in lift to match a 83 4x4 ride height for a2wd.
I think you can get a pre runner setup though that lifts it pretty good via spindles."
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I only have a cover on one of the under cabinet speakers, and it says "Radio Shack". Was that "factory" in an '87 Dolphin?
I also have a "noise" from my furnace, but it sounds like two pieces of sheet metal vibrating against each other, and if I smack the grille, it stops.
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Mmm, spring over axle. Maybe that'd be my solution. I'm looking for more clearance for safer rough road excursions.
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It does say "obo". LOL
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I may start telling them that it is for sale with a $25,000 price tag.
I have a '78 Celica with the hen's tooth luggage rack on the back. I have a friend who wants the rack very badly. I kept telling him no, it's not for sale. He finally told me that as I've said, there is a price for anything, so I said $1,000. He told me I was crazy. I told him I didn't want to sell it, but if he gave me $1k, it'd be his.
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I'm not saying a fluid coupler is even comparable to a torque converter. I'm just saying that most people don't realize how a torque converter works, especially when you include the stator, and that the torque multiplication can be changed, not just the stall speed.
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there's a reason my wife coined the term "payaso del mar" (clown of the sea)Ahh, I hadn't broken it down to figure it out, other than "del mar". Makes sense now!
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sorry about the novel. I write for a living, so tend to be long-winded.
current cheap aftermarket wheels have a center bore that's about 1/2" bigger diameter than Toy hub, so the lugs are carrying the whole load.....figured I needed to replace wheels with something more hub-centric given the weight. but yeah, you're right, I like the look of the larger tires. and I want AT type tires, which are pretty scarce in 14".
tip for those pressing old, rusted-in bushings out of upper control arms: buy a turnbuckle and cut the ends off (or two longish 3/8" bolts and a threaded sleeve) and insert in the middle of the "V" shaped control arm to keep it from collapsing when you heave on the press. i crushed mine slightly (narrowed the angle of the "V" shape) due to the force needed to budge the steel outer sleeve of bushing. was able to open it back up with a screw jack, but i suspect i may have to replace that control arm since the bushing bores need to be exactly in line. another $41 down the tubes.....
I figured you must do something for a living that has you writing. I do mechanical damage warranty claims on cars, motorhomes, motorcycles, personal watercraft... so need to write as well, and sometimes get a bit creative in describing a failure, plus years in the Navy, writing evals...
I am looking at the BFG ATs that are available in a 14" simply because of the cost of upgrading to a 15" six-lug wheel. I have to wonder how much load is really carried by the hub centric axle/hub/wheel? I'd think that as long as the studs are in good shape (ARP?), and the lugs are properly torqued...
Live and learn, right? I've made a few mistakes along the way, turning a wrench for almost 40 years, paying my dues - literally.
Welcome aboard (I'm a noob myself). I'm enjoying your write up/posts, and keep waiting for the next.
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Use the '87, but put the 3RZ into it. I know a guy local here that does 2 & 3RZ swaps into older 2xR/RE trucks quite often. I also have a friend who swapped a 2RZ into his '83 Celica, replacing its 22RE. That's an easy way to pick up 40+ HP, and it looks like it belongs there.
Just my $0.02 worth.
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Donnie, yes, you did answer my question(s), and most of your answer is what I thought it'd be. Thank you!
Most people forget what the nomenclature "torque converter" really means. It is not just a "fluid coupler".
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Wow! Linda, that is like - super cool! I normally just do the math, but now I don't have to!!
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Apparently you found it, but as I stated above, Wikipedia lists all Toyota transmissions:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Toyota_transmissions
All W series:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_transmission
And the A series autos:
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Excellent idea! I've been trying to figure a simple way to level my Dolphin. I've made some wooden ramps to drive on, but it's still on the suspension, so wind or moving inside gets it rocking.( Something to consider for stabilizing your rig , if you don't already have one )
I fixed two stabilizer brackets for the rear that the stabilizers can be slid onto the bumper brace to stabilize the toyohome while camping, just slide them off and put inside while traveling. I bought 2 scissor jacks from HARBOR FREIGHT while they were on sale for $19 each.
FYI, those jacks appear to be the same as what came in almost every Toyota automobile from at least the mid '70s well into the '80s and maybe longer. I checked Pick 'n Pull's website, and they sell them for $4.99 with no core charge!
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There's an ID tag in the engine compartment that gives the trans model and a code for the diff saying something like W40/F391. That's the trans model, which you can get the ratios from the Wikipedia page. I carry a list of axle ratio info in my wallet, so can tell you what the diff is.
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Are you checking the fluid with the engine running? If so, and it's overfull, that usually indicates that the filter (screen) is restricted. You might try dropping the pan, cleaning or replacing the screen, and then adding fresh fluid, but it sounds like the trans is toast.
If it is toast, it's not exactly something you can rebuild on the side of the road.
That's my $0.02 worth. Others may have other ideas.
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Ahh - 12v TV would make sense. I guess I have no need for it then. I'll leave it alone for now. I have a "Leaf 50" http://store.gomohu.com/the-leaf-ultimate-hdtv-antenna.html indoor antenna that picks up about all of the locally available broadcast stations, so don't need the TV jack, unless I'm somewhere that offers cable.
I haven't checked the fan yet, so haven't verified why it's not working, although I'd assume it's the fan motor. I'm considering a fantastic fan anyway, but I won't need it for better than three months. Apparently, the PO pulled the A/C unit out, and put in a vent instead. I'll relocate that vent to one of the factory vents though, as its screen snaps in and out!
I have yet to use the stove or oven. I only use a microwave, as I'm now a single, empty nester, so that's not a cause of condensation. All I can figure is the cats, dog (see the "pets" thread) and myself breathing and the heating is causing it. I just wish there was some way to "drain" the condensation from the windows.
And again, I haven't been cooking (yet), so don't need the vent, and have tape covering it to stop cold air from coming in.
In the 900 series, the optional microwave was installed above the stove (per the wiring diagram), and I assume it had a fan, although that is irrelevant at this point. I'm just hoping that the factory wiring for the option is there for me to use.
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Rather than starting a few threads in different sections, I figured it might be best to combine them in one, so here it goes...
This is an '87 Dolphin 900.
What can be done about condensation? I get so much building up on the windows, especially the overcab bunk, that the bottom gets wet. It doesn't help that the cats prefer it up there, so the space is occupied 24/7.
I bought some 5 mil "Crystal Clear Vinyl Sheeting" to cover the windows with, but don't know if that will do enough, plus the cats will probably shread it.
Next, my bathroom fan is dead. Who came up with the bright idea of putting the interior trim of the overhead vents inside of the screen, so it has to be removed before the screen can be removed, and then the fan wiring goes through the screen frame!
My fridge is a freezer. It barely works on gas, and freezes on 120v. Will a new t-stat take care of that?
And if I replace the fridge, how the hell does it exit the coach?!?!
I want to add a microwave with range vent. Does anyone know if the wiring for the optional microwave is there, so I just need to connect it and add the breaker?
The couch is supposed to convert to a bed, right? I must be missing something, as I have nothing to hold the "mattress" when pulling it out.
What is the 12v "cigarette lighter" plug under the upper cabinet above the fridge for?
I think that's it for now...
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There are urethane bushings available as well, from "Prothane".you might as well put new bushings in to. doing the swap is easy . I did mine in about 2 1/2 hours
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I don't know how to relate this, but we had a similar discussion on celica-gts.com about where to put the electric fan t-stat. The initial feeling was to sense the temp of the fluid leaving the engine (at the t-stat housing or along the upper rad hose), as if it is too hot, it'd turn the fan on. After pages of discussion, the conclusion was made that it makes more sense to have it at the lower hose, to turn the fan(s) on if the cooled liquid leaving the rad was still too hot.
And yes, I agree with looking for anomalies, but also for excess rise, like when pulling a hill.
My dad, with his 30 some foot 454 powered coach would watch for his magical 210 degree point, when he'd ease off the accelerator and drop the TH400 to 2nd and enjoy the view.
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Most big (class A) motorhome owners I've talked with, both gas and diesel, all seem to get between 7 and 13 MPG, varying between size and speeds, but usually in the 8-11 range.
there's a reason my wife coined the term "payaso del mar" (clown of the sea)
One Of Those Days
in General Discussion
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The 1UZ was crushed?!?! Oh no!