ednelson100
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Posts posted by ednelson100
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I have one. It is left over when I upgraded my motor to a 3.4.
For sale or trade. I am located in San Antonio TX.
Ed
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Yes,
Sorry, reading without my glasses again.
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4 hours ago, odysseybernard said:
Good time to lube the cable while the cluster is out, which I now have to re pull and lube. Speedo needle is shaky and noisy
Did you try adjusting the small square potentiometer screw? Adjusting that stopped mine from shaking.
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As stated by other members in this thread it is very difficult. I would recommend you return the bushing for money back if possible and by an entire new arm from ebay for $32.50@. That is what I did.
Installed them in less than an hour and they worked great. Then had front end alignment done by a professional for $100, That would have been cheaper but he said it required the old style re-shimming.............Ed
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18 hours ago, Scott iv said:
Yes these motorhomes can be reliable, reasonably fuel efficient, and fun to own. However, plan for putting in time to repair many different things that break, rattle, come loose, and just plain no longer work without replacing. This applies to your mint ones as well.
I bought my 1991 Itasca with 35K miles 5 years ago for $8,500. It now has 140K miles and I could easily sell it for $10 -$11,000 or more (get offers all the time). I have maintained it to the max with many upgrades. But you do bring up some good points. Of course vehicles this old are always going to need more maintenance than a newer model. How much would depend on how the previous owner took care of it, but always something.
If you do all of your own work like myself it is really no problem. So for do-it-selfers, back yard mechanics, and resourceful owners who know how to get the best parts deals and how-to information from the internet these are great deals and well worth the money. If you buy one that has not been maintained properly and plan to pay mechanics and RV shops to do all the work maybe it is not the right one for you because, yes, they will require more maintenance the more you use them and the older they get.
I get 15MPG at 55MPH and 12.5MPG at 70MPH (6cyl 3.4L) and if I ever do put it up for sale it will stay at this and not miraculously increase like some seem to do. haha
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My 91 Itasca also has the two inline cats. I have purchased a new single cat and muffler and am getting ready to install and use 2 and a quarter inch pipe. Like Gulfstream mentioned when I look in the cat and muffler the pipe is reduced. I guess that does not matter?
Could you let me know how yours comes out, defrag and if it makes any difference on you 3.4 performance?
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On 5/6/2019 at 8:10 AM, rdsrds123 said:
Do they seem as sturdy as OEM?
Yes they do, but I doubt if they will last another 28 years like the originals, but then neither will this RV or probably me either.
There was not enough space to get the driver's side one to come out because it hit the steering column, so I had to make two cuts in the inside fender well and peel a section of it back.
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Here
On 5/4/2019 at 9:54 AM, hunkaman said:if you could post a schematic it would be appreciated very much.
This is from 1995 T100 but all years are 97% the same for the clusters. For Grung2U on connector C12 Pin 1 (P for Park), It shows wire is Violet/Yellow going to that pin but the color could be different. Another way to test the Park light is put your old cluster back in, if P still lights up then something is wrong with your new cluster.
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Good advice jrbus.
After removing one upper arm and fooling around with the hub for couple hours I ordered two new control arms for $65 from eBay
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I m about to start on mine today. I believe this loaner from AutoZone would do the trick for free:
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Trace which pin connection on which connector PARK comes into the cluster. Pull that connector off, turn key to on, see if 12 volts is present on that pin. That will tell you if the issue for sure is in the cluster or somewhere else. You should reference a schematic. I or someone could post it if needed.
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After having many blowouts from bubble/tread separation ( I am embarrassed to say how many}, I reduced my tire pressure from maximum 65 lbs to recommended 55 lbs and no more blowouts so far. I was running NEXEN but switched to Hankook. I had blowouts with both. I was always taught to fill tires to maximum for better MPG. Guess that is not a good idea for Toys. My very lousy tire shop was still recommending me to fill to maximum when I kept bringing back the blown tires that still had plenty of tread left on them.
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7 hours ago, AtlantaCamper said:
Oh, and one last thing, did you swap your odometer from the old one to the new one? Apparently this is possible if they match up on your old and new clusters.
The odometers are not compatible for swapping. That leaves you with three options.
1. Leave as it is.
2. Have a tach shop set it. They charged my friend Tim $60.
3. Set it yourself which is not that simple. Bend the tabs on the side of the odometer so you can slide out the horizontal pin holding the dials in place. Spin the dials back and forth until they are where you want them. Re-assemble. The first one I did I had to look at an assembled one to figure out how to get it back together. The second one I did I took close up pictures with my phone before I took it apart for reference.
Ed
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Yep I tried from several operating systems, browsers, and devices.
Site will only work if you stay on your device that has had access and continues to have access.
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I can see this on my tablet which I have the browser and site settings to stay logged in and remember my user name and password.
Two other laptops and my phone I only get an error trying to open the site.
As a test I think we need someone to try logging off and back on but make sure you have a backup device already logged in. Just in case it does not come back.
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39 minutes ago, allsummer said:
"Inside bracing is the best option.
The pinholes might be from galvanic corrosion. How is the roof built? "
Thanks for your help,
Yes, I am trying to figure out how to make an inside bracing like WME suggested. The roof is wood, styrofoam, and aluminum. The aluminum corrosion was caused by one leak from the vent and then later another leak when the black water tank air vent cap blew off and rain got in. I have already cut that section out to completely let dry, repaired, and coated it with roof coating.
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Thanks WME,
That would sure be a simple fix but you have a different Toy model than mine so I do not believe posts in the coach would be feasible. My roof sag is all in the center in front and rear of the AC. I wonder if anyone has tried something like your fix on an ITASCA model?
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Hello all,
On my 1991 Itasca I discovered some small pin holes corroding through the aluminum sheet roof by the rear vent. I have decided to fix that area and re-coat the entire roof with Henry 887 Tropi-Cool 100% Silicone White Roof Coating.
The roof also sags from the weight of the AC unit and the lowest spot is an inch and a quarter sag in front of the AC. The sag is currently not causing an issue other than a pool of water accumulating whenever it is sitting level. In my driveway it is at an incline so only when traveling it pools up.
I have read the posts on how to fix this by removing the AC unit and constructing an aluminum box tubing frame across the top to pull the roof up. I could do this myself but not sure if I should mess with it or just leave it alone. I would appreciate anyone that may have an opinion on this.
Thanks,
Ed
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My issue turned out to be the Interstate battery. Even though it still had one year left on warranty and the dealer had tested and assured me it was good, it was not. The problem very slowly got worse until I finally replaced the battery.
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I'm doing great Mr. Defrag4,
Wow Alaska and back, that's great. I want to do that trip one day too.
The 3.4 motor has met all my expectations and has lived up to its reputation. It is now over 170K miles on the motor with only one minor issue. "see below". My MPG has improved to 15.5 - 16 MPG traveling at 55 after I moved the 2nd O2 sensor from where the exhaust shop had placed it before the first catalytic converter to after the first catalytic converter. I have never had to add any oil between changes and when it is time for an oil change the oil still looks clean, amazing. I plan to do a complete overhaul of the motor when I hit 600K miles, haha.
My minor issue. It starts fine when cold or short trips but occasionally after driving 2 or three hours when weather is hot, it only clicks, after a few more clicks it starts. I replaced starter with another used starter, checked all wires and grounds, replaced 3.0 80 amp fuse with 3.4 100 amp fuse, and wrapped starter in heat reflecting blanket. So now I have a brand new starter to install before my next trip. So cheap, $43 from Amazon.
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Any update on this?
I have a similar issue. I can drive for months around town with no issue but go on a long trip driving for several hours a day and intermittently, turn key and only clicks, keep trying or let it sit for a few minutes and it finally starts. I swapped starter with another used starter and still same issue. Also checked cabling, grounds, and replaced 80amp fuse.
I guess I will try a new starter next.
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On 4/16/2018 at 10:55 PM, danny dan said:
Here is an under hood picture of mine as a reference to anyone considering the swap.
Very nice and neat looking job Dan.
I wonder who will be next?
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My 92 ITASCA had a mechanical speedometer and the tach worked without a wire added when it had the 3.0 motor and when i upgraded to the 3.4.
I only had to plug in the new cluster, pull off the tach needle and reset it to 0, and then adjust the POT to eliminate the shaky needle.
Ed
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On 12/11/2017 at 1:22 PM, defrag4 said:
MPG is still pretty disappointing, getting ~11-13, but I am flying down the highway at 75mph
will be interested to see if her MPG improves once I get the rear o2 sensor installed and get off these damn highways, backroads are calling my name, should be on the move again in Jan
That sounds about what I am getting. I now have driven over 10,000 miles on the 3.4/5VZE motor with no issues and still loving it.
My 3.4 motor has a total of 160K miles on it and is still in excellent condition and getting the following MPG.
City: 13.5 average
Highway on a flat road with no wind at 55 MPH / 2500 RPM: 14.5 average
Highway on a flat road with no wind at 70 MPH / 3000 RPM: 12.5 average
So, my conclusion is MPG is about the same on the 3.4 as it was on my 3.0 before the 3.0 started having serious issues. The amount of wind resistance seems to have the most impact on MPG in my opinion.
Ed
will be interested to see if her MPG improves once I get the rear o2 sensor installed and get off these damn highways, backroads are calling my name, should be on the move again in Jan
Computer fail 1991 Toyo/Winnebago Warrior
in Electrical
Posted
Happy would be an understatement. 3.4 is far superior to the 3.0 in every way. Put 30K on the motor that already had 135K on it when I installed it and still performs beautifully.
I plan to do a complete overhaul when I hit 600K, Haha