knowltondata
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Posts posted by knowltondata
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My understanding is with that engine, you have a iron block and aluminum head. Expansion and contraction at different rates tears the gasket.
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I just purchased a Dolmetic unit and it's 125 pounds.
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I would be weary of towing anything off weaker frame extensions that are only rated to carry the back of the motorhome.
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250 pounds on a carrier is like the tongue weight of a 2500 pound trailer. Go with the trailer.
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From 2000 on: DOT XXXX XXX XXXX
Last four: date code (week/year manufacture, two for week, two for year)
Before 2000: DOT XXXX XXXX XXX
Last three: date code (two for week/one for year)
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The 4runners had a rear deck light switch it was black with a red/orange lighted circle on it. The trucks didn't have bed lights.
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In the bath I would use that plastic panel stuff (comes around plywood sheet size) thats textured on one side and smooth on the other...
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Ahh, a little JBWeld'll fix that!
I wonder if that affects other years as well? I don't know if Toyota changed their tank configuration during the 80's...
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One other question. Is the 22RE an interference engine?
Yes it is.
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Not that I can think of offhand... the only thing the 20R/22R engines had a problem with was timing chains wearing through their guides too quick but your model is way before that, in fact that's a double row timing chain. That engine will live long life.
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Spotted a 89-95 Toyota motorhome May 30th on I-20 in Georgia... are you on here? I'm wanting to say it was an Itasca, but could be wrong.
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Birds nest? Do you mean someone added onto the wiring? Like maybe for trailer lights?
Like Shoprat said, corrosion is a big thing... so don't just check the socket for voltage and then declare the circuit dead, check voltage on the wires behind the socket too... look for any mickey moused wiring, poorly done connections.
And remember grounds are just as important as the power wire! Bad/loose grounds can make your lights do weird stuff... and I do mean weird!
First things first, get yourself a meter if you don't have one. You're troubleshooting blind without one. I was helping a kid on another forum with his stereo wiring in his truck and i swear he couldn't get it in his head that he needed a meter! Start at one end and work your way to the next, on down the line; no skipping around!
If you have some pictures that helps us help you too. Since the rear lights are not the same across manufacturers its hard to tell you to look for such and so colored wire.
Hope we can help ya!
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No, I didn't get the upgrade yet....
I went to another hamfest and tested again but the testing team lost my test and didn't tell me until closing up time... they had been running slow on grading and so everyone went looking around the hamfest and the VEs were calling them back to give them the score... I was so ticked... I drove four hours to get there.
The question pool is changing next month for the General upgrade so I need to check the new questions before I try again. Maybe I wasn't meant to upgrade?
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Advance doesn't carry them in the stores, it's a special order item...
I don't know where else to find one sorry.
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I found three on Advanceautoparts website but they were 180 each.....
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A lot of those manufacturers aren't around anymore but most of your mechanicals apply the same from camper to camper...
Oh, before I forget, howdy fellow NC'er!
The 22R engines were designated 22R - Carburated, 22RE - Fuel injected, 22RTE - EFI Turbo. If your air cleaner is round, you've got a 22R; if it's square, you've got EFI. A turbo version should have a "turbo light" on the dash somewhere... For turbo questions, Greg and Shoprat are the ones to talk to.
You mentioned lack of power... keep in mind these little fours only made 96 HP (22R), 112 HP (22RE), and 135 HP (22RTE)
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WELCOME HOME!!!!!!
Glad to see you made it without too much hassle/breakdowns.
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The "1ton" toyotas were actually single wheel, the dual wheels were only used on cab only (for chassis builders) The store listings should show dual wheel on early 90's listings. Take one with you for comparison.
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The problem comes when the hitch is mounted on frame extensions that aren't supposed to hold more than the bathroom.
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The crankshaft pulley bolt wasn't the problem. It was the set of 6 bolts that hold the flex plate on the back end of the crankshaft. These are only accessible once the engine is removed. There is probably an SST which has teeth that engage with the ring gear and bolts up to the back face of the block (I have one for the Mazda 13B engines).
Ooops... I misread...
Good luck with it.
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Tip for next time on that crank bolt. Brace your cheater bar against the frame while the engine is still in, unhook the coil and bump the starter. Breaks it loose every time.
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Rip out the carpet!
Have you had your rig weighed fully loaded?
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They have bare LED strips that can be put in existing fixtures.
There's a difference source that I can't think of off the top of my head.
There is a great write up a fellow did on this over on the Airstream Forums
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311/led-c...ions-27274.html
Just remember you have to observe correct polarity.
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Cool deal!
A/C Advice???
in General Discussion
Posted
See if there is a business nearby who will let you use their forklift for a few minutes....