diana
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Posts posted by diana
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First, I want to thank everyone on this site who offered me great advice and help while I was looking for my rig. I'd lost out on my first-choice deal, an 18' Sunrader, and then, last week, bought what will probably serve me better - a 22' Rogue. Glad it was only an hour drive away too, since the Sunrader purchase would have meant a trip to the Memphis, and I live in Northern California. This rig has 1984 22R with the good rear axel, standard transmission, and only 80K miles. Drives like a Cadillac. I found some dry rot, so the seller is rebuilding the cabover front. The interior woodwork, counters, sink, etc. are in great shape and looks like everything inside works, despite its age. The mechanic who checked it was very positive. I got a truly great (!) price so can afford to redo the awful carpet, upholstery and curtains, but not until we get back from mega-dusty 'Burning Man' next August. I'm pretty smitten with this rig despite it's relative lack of gelcoat and, at present, seedy interior. If my family and I use it as much as I think we will, I can always trade up later to a newer Sunrader (love them).
Think now I will go read the discussion of emergency road kit contents. ;0)
Will be talking to you all, Diana
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thanks - good solid info!
The housing is not the problem. On the 4X4's you can bend the housings, there are many weld-on kits to help, but in our case, you will need to remove the load on the axle. Nothing but a full-floater will do this.
A.
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I wonder too about settling on a 21'er since they are so easy to find, but still hoping for that shorty 18' rig. I need to drive both. I would not quibble over 18' vs 19.9'. Thanks for that tip.
I think the deposit is the best way to hold something. When I sold my Dolphin, I had so much interest in it and people wanting to fly in from all over. Lots turned out to be flakes/no-shows, so it really does come down to (as a seller) first come with cash, first served.
If you're patient, a Sunrader will show up -- but they get bought even more quickly than the others, it seems. A 21'er is really not all that much bigger, so you may find something else you like as well. In fact, my '21 foot' Dolphin was actually just shy of 20 feet, bumper to bumper.
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Thanks to both of you for solid advice. I do see the seller's side, but still need to get more 'professional' going about this. You helped. Live and learn. Again, thanks. (This is a great board!)
Derek, I need the smallest rig possible that comes with two beds. Don't need or even want a bathroom with a second sink, oven, etc. I've had mid-sized rigs and they are gas guzzlers and hard to drive, park, etc. My RV use is recreational road trips and 'camping', taking one of my grown kids or a friend along, hence the two beds, but luxury is not a priority for me. Simplicity, reliability and good design are. So... I am looking for a Sunrader 18' - a scarce commodity. Lots of 21's out there, but not 18's. Yes, Northern California but I know I will have to travel.
D.
Diana, Sorry to hear about this, but as Derek said, Look at it from the sellers side also.
I was surprised at how fast these things sold (even junk was selling fast).
I looked for about 3 months before I finally found one.
Before I made any substantial commitment to time or money, (car fax) Make sure you know what the sellers rules are. Before I drive 2 hours to look at a MH. Will the seller take someone else's cash before I get there, or will he wait for me to look at it. If the seller tells me he won't wait, I tell him; "I know how you fell, but I'm not willing to risk a two hour drive each way". Usually, they agree to hold it for a couple hours until I get there. Be Very Specific on your time.. i.e. If I'm not there by 3pm, It means I probably got in a wreck and I don't expect you to hold it past 3pm.
When I flew to New Mexico to look at the MH I bought, The Seller agreed to a $200 non-refundable deposit to hold the MH for two weeks. I PayPal'ed him the money, and bought my airline ticket.
I also made a commitment to myself, that if I wasn't totally satisfied with the MH, I would get a ride back to the airport or rental car, and walk away from my deposit.
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How much difference in finding parts for 20r versus 22r?
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How much difference in finding parts for 20r versus 22r?
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And here I thought I was all ready to get the final mechanical check up results on my dream rig and send money to escrow when someone else swept in and got it. And no, I was all over this deal and not, as granny put it, dilly dallying. So now I'm out one Car Fax and a whole lot (!) of phone calls and emails, not to mention disappointed, but at least I'm not out a plane ticket. How can I secure a future negotiation of an out of state purchase long enough to safely and wisely close a deal? (i.e., have it checked by mechanic, etc.) Or is it really just first come, first served?
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Just spoke with two local smog shops and they agree with you: IF all the parts are there and working, there should be no problem. Even the worst case scenario tho does not sound too expensive so long as I can get the parts.
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hmmm... looks like one more thing to figure out. thanks for the reality check. i will look into exactly what the rig needs to pass inspection. (sigh)
Big hurdles that you might come across if you're buying from outside of California are:-
1 - It wasn't originally fitted with the systems required to meet Cali emissions;
2 - If it was, are the parts all still there or have they been removed and thrown away.
Since I live where there are no inspections, I don't have any personal experience. I have read online that if all the equipment installed and in good operating condition that there is no problem getting it through California smog testing. I've no idea how hard it is to find any parts that might be missing from an '85.
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Ready to buy an out-of-state rig on a low mileage 1983 4 cyl Toy. I would bring it to my home state of California next June. Anyone know if I should be able get thru the smog check easy enough or should I anticipate a problem getting this rig smogged? Thanks.
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thanks for the welcome. i'm in northern california. first i need to go ahead and buy the rig - can't take time off work to go see it for myself, so am hiring independent 3rd parties to go inspect it, and an escrow company to do the paperwork. not a done deal yet. definitely not a scam but still first time i have made a purchase this way. i'll go get it in june, drive it home and have work done on axle here - unless, on second thought, i could have axle replaced there. devil's always in the details... anyway am delighted i found this model; it's perfect design for me - not too small and not too big.
So where are you located? If not near Oregon, perhaps I/we can turn up something closer. Obviously shipping an axle would be a bit inconvenient and expensive. It's not often you'll get the complete 'kit' for $200.
BTW, welcome to the Forum.
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thanks! i'm inclined to go for the 'new' rig too. local parts dealer was quoting over 1k for just the axle, so i will give this oregon source a call. can see this is going to become a project, but hopefully a fun one.
Not much detail to base a recommendation on. But you can get a good axle for $200 and up and maybe $1000 installed. I'd go for 'condition' over 'axle'. Are you anywhere near Oregon? I think perhaps you are.
http://oregoncoast.c...2129193179.html
He'll reportedly accept $200 for a quick sale. A bargain if you're anywhere near.
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Local mechanic who only works on Toy trucks 1974 - 88, says he is also a fabricator and therefore he thinks he could 'beef up' the 5 lug rear axle housing so it can safely carry the weight of an 18' Sunrader. Thoughts? I imagine lots of others would have tried this if it could work, and people would not still be replacing the old axels. What do I tell him?
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Have a chance to buy clean 1985 18' Sunrader with only 30K miles and stored in a garage, but with the old bad axle... or a rougher 1983 with 125K miles and the replacement good axle. Which would you choose?
Harbor Freight 45 watt solar panels?
in Electrical
Posted
http://www.harborfre...-kit-90599.html
anyone using these?
i have someone who wants to install this set on the RV roof (fyi, i want them flat, flush, tho know it is a real disadvantage for solar collection, is a real advantage for not falling off the roof while rotating them). he'd hook'em up to 2 smaller-sized new gel batteries (do not know capacity yet that he has in mind) in line with coach battery under the hood. (not the separate starter battery).
all i want is to be able to boon dock in summer without a flashlight (!), pump a little water, keep my laptop and cell charged, and, unlikely, maybe run the heater a bit. i know solar's all about crunching the numbers (power in/power out. was off the grid in my cabin for years), but in my little Toyota RV there is no way to come close to assessing, say, days camping, sun angles, hours spent reading, etc., so ball-parking is my method of choice.
any advice?