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RICHARD SCHADE

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Posts posted by RICHARD SCHADE

    Back to the same problem

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Hi Folks, Had this same problem two months ago, found the rear injector was leaking gas outside, replaced all o rings with injector kits, this fix the problem, had three great camping trips and no starting problems great, now the warm up starting problem is back , checked all injectors and no leaks and I don't smell gas at all under the hood, like last time. If the fuel is bleeding back to the tank on shut off, why does it start cold on as soon as I crank one time, has anyone had this problem and fixed it and ,and where do I go from hear, though about the coolant temperature senor , can get one for 22.50, but not sure this is the problem. once started runs perfect, does not miss a beat or stall, plenty of power , for a 1988 22re with 72000 miles. uses no oil , just now when warmed up and try to start have crank four or five times then starts and runs smooth, thinking maybe finding a high cliff and push it off , no starting problems anymore. HELP PLEASE------,HOPE SOMEONE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND FIXED IT

    TAKE CARE RICHARD

    The Simple Fix for worn extension housing bushings?

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Hello if anyone needs a rear trans bushing try this company, I did and got parts in two days bushing $2.19 plus shipping. A CHEAP PRICE WILL SEE IF ITS THE RIGHT ONE , Transmission Parts USA

    2715 Crag Street

    Fort Myers, FL 33901- Phone: 239-790-5401

    so far so good a little over 3,000 miles and seems fine no leaks

    take care RICHARD

    New Dometic AC 1988 dolphin 22re

    in Coach ApplianceTech Issues

    Posted

    I just installed a new Dometic ac unit on my 1988 dolphin and tighten the four corner bolts to Dometic spec. but the roof bumpers are not touching the roof, its mainly supported by the gasket ,water hose tested it no leaks,would have to tighten 3/8 to 1/2 inch down on gasket for the bumpers to make contack, but new unit is a 2011 model and the compreser bolts are boled through the base , the bolt a washer, and a rubber gromet , and if I tighten more the heads of the bolts will also hit the roof, they are about 1/4 inch off now, has anybody see a problem with the way it is , it run find. the old unit was the same Dometic 13500 btu but see better days build in 1987, and someone tighten it down to where the gasket was a 1/4 inch thick, and sealed the hold unit to the roof all the way around , witch from what I know is worng. any input would ease my mine.

    thanks Richard

    found my starting problem leaking injector is it hard to fix

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR HELP. 88 Dolphin 4 Auto, had injectors lose Tuesday in about an hour, just disconnected what look like would stop the air manifold from coming lose , then rolled it on top of valve cover and took out the two bolts for the injector log, Then called local advance auto for seal kits four in all 5.97 each pick them up Wednesday at 7;45got home at 8:30, had it back together at 10:45 and running didn't have to drain water. so far no leaks and its been starting first time each time I try and is running great, hope it stay that a way. doing it the back yard mechanics way learned a few tricks. Ha Waiter lived on a sail boat for 22 years, are saying is if it works don;t fix it. Thanks for your help and this groups support,

    Richard

    found my starting problem leaking injector is it hard to fix

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    well Waiter got the air manifold off and the fuel rail off the rear injector s top o ring was swelled up and a mess, so I gest that was my leak, ordered all new seal kit from local advance auto 5.97 each, going to put all new rubber o rings top and bottom on all four injectors, never did get a manual just did it the old school way who first whats on second, a lot easier than I though, parts will be in tomorrow ,hope I remember where it all fits, wish me luck. and thanks so much for your help and moral support. , get back hopefull with a smile on my face. not bad for a 68 year old.

    Thanks RICHARD, SURE GLAD TO HAVE GREAT PLACE TO GET ADVICE, BEST THING WAS TO JOIN THIS GROUP. THANKS ALL

    found my starting problem leaking injector is it hard to fix

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Waiter thanks for your advice, the injector is leaking on the out side its the rear one, don't have and mechanic in this area that I would trust to repair it right . I live out in the country and most of the mechanics out here are not factory schooled, I have to do this my self , but don't how to get the air manifold off, to get to the fuel rail, would like to get and on line manual, but where to look , if you know or can help I would be thank full. the motor home runs find , but would like to know if it is the injector leaking , or do they always leak at the o rings top or bottom, how can I tell witch.

    thanks Richard

    found my starting problem leaking injector is it hard to fix

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Waiter thanks for your advice, the injector is leaking on the out side its the rear one, don't have and mechanic in this area that I would trust to repair it right . I live out in the country and most of the mechanics out here are not factory schooled, I have to do this my self , but don't how to get the air manifold off, to get to the fuel rail, would like to get and on line manual, but where to look , if you know or can help I would be thank full. the motor home runs find , but would like to know if it is the injector leaking , or do they always leak at the o rings top or bottom, how can I tell witch.

    thanks Richard

    found my starting problem leaking injector is it hard to fix

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Thats why its hard starting. (The leaking injector)

    Normally, the fuel system will maintain pressure for weeks after you shut it down. It relies on this pressure when you start the engine.

    Try this.

    Turn on the key to "run" position for about 3 seconds, then turn the key OFF for about 2 seconds. Do not attempt to start.

    Repeat this about three or four times.

    Then try and start, It should fire right up. (fuel pressure in the system is now up to correct pressure)

    When you first turn the key to the run position, you may hear the fuel pump run (depends on your hearing and how loud the pump is), It should run for about 2 seconds, then shut back off. (safety feature)

    The reason you need to do this three times is to get the pump to build pressure back in the fuel system.

    Before you replace the injector, try running a couple cans of "Fuel Injector Cleaner" through it. this may clean up the nozzle.

    WARNING - If the injector is leaking externally, this creates a fire hazard. I would repair this ASAP. In all likelihood, it the o-rings that have dried and are leaking. The fix may be simply replacing the O rings. You 'll need to pop the fuel rail off, if you do this, I would replace all O-rings (one on the top and one on the bottom, replace the o rings on all four injectors.

    Clean the mating surfaces, put a little grease (just enough to wet the o-ring) on each o-ring, it will help when you re-assemble.

    IMPORTANT - If you replace the injector, reset the ECU by removing the ECU fuse for 30 seconds or better yet, remove the battery cable for 30 seconds. This wil force the ECU back into a learn mode, where it will optimize its internal fuel ration table. You'll need to take the truck out on the freeway and drive it at operating temperature for 10 or 15 minutes to relearn. Actually, doesn't hurt to do this after any major engine work (tune up, etc)

    Hard starting after sitting a week or two

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Waiter tried what you said about turning key on an off four times and it worked first time, where do i go from here , checked inter net to find pressure valve but know luck, is it in the fuel pump, and do i need a new fuel pump, right now wish i had a garb in stead , muck easier for me to work on. maybe I have to live with this, when it runs its great , don't want to mess this up

    thanks TAKE CARE RICHARD

    Hard starting after sitting a week or two

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Waiter tried what you said about turning key on an off four times and it worked first time, where do i go from here , checked inter net to find pressure valve but know luck, is it in the fuel pump, and do i need a new fuel pump, right now wish i had a garb in stead , muck easier for me to work on. maybe I have to live with this, when it runs its great , don't want to mess this up

    thanks TAKE CARE RICHARD

    Hard starting after sitting a week or two

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Big difference on starting procedures between EFI and Carb.

    On EFI, You should not touch the gas pedal. (On many EFI, Holding the gas pedal to the floor shuts off fuel in a "Clear Flooded" mode)

    Is this Electronic Fuel Injected or Carb?? ( I ask that because I have an 88 and its EFI)

    If its EFI, try this, Turn the key ON for about 5 seconds, but do not attempt to start, turn the key off for 2 seconds. Do this about three times. T

    The fourth time, go ahead and try and start.

    Let me know what happens and I'll need to look in the book and see where the check valve is located. (normally its part of the Fuel pump)

    Here's whats happening *****

    The Check Valve is there to keep the fuel system pressurized after you shut the engine down. (It can hold pressure for weeks)

    If the check valve is sticking open, what happens is, when you shut the engine off, fuel in the lines will drain back to the tank, What aggravates the problem, With a hot engine, as the pressure in the fuel line drops, its boiling point goes down and fuel in the line can boil and push all the fuel in the line back into the tank.

    When you attempt to start the engine the next time, the pump only runs for X seconds. The short period of time the pump runs isn't long enough to get fuel up to the Injectors, and under to correct pressure.

    NOTE - If this is the problem, the other item that can cause this is a stuck or leaky injector. If an injector is leaky, it will bleed off the fuel system pressure and the symptoms will be the similiar. A leaky injector won't drain the fuel line, but usually just causes pressure bleed down. May need only one reattempt.

    I need to verify this, but when you turn the key on and don't attempt a start, you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds, then quit.

    (Most vehicles run the pump for a couple seconds to build up pressure, However, there are a few (my 97 Camry) that don't run the pump until you actually attempt to start.) The pump will keep running =only after oil pressure is built up and it sees a tach signal that indicates the engine is running

    Hard starting after sitting a week or two

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    Need some help, I have 1988 22re 71,000 miles run great 15 plus mpg 21.6 motor home, have to crank three or four times before it starts, what is the most common cause for this to be happening, when i bough it . had tune up and oil and trans changed. I put a new fuel filter on it, and hope I never have to do that again for a another 70,000. once started runs great , now when I stop for gas leave it running, don't like this but its better than the hard starting. I have put 2,000 mile on it with no problems, where do i start to fix this, some times when cold I turn the key and it starts right up first try. I have a hard time trusting repair shops. So its me or live with it, any help thanks.

    Engine still sartes hard when warmed up

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    What engine do you have? Carbureted or fuel injected? My initial suspicion is that fuel pressure is bleeding off when parked.

    HI I have 1988 Dolphin 22re 71,000 miles maybe that could be the problem the fuel bleeding down, what would cause this and where would the check valve be located , does not seam to show any leaks that I can see. is it a weak fuel pump, but it runs fine and starts cold fine. how would I check if the fuel is bleeding down.

    thanks for your help Richard

    Engine still sartes hard when warmed up

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    OK when I try to start when warmed up it turns over normal and fires once or twice but does keep running till three or four try's but once running drives great, no misses and plenty of power. and i never push the gas peddle down when trying to start cold or warmed up.have try ed both ways when warmed up still the same . but it always starts, when cold it starts it starts with a few cranks first time. with out pushing down on the gas pedal. what to do.

    thanks for the reply Richard

    HOW TO REMOVE AUTO TRANS EXTENSION HOUSING

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    HI KIM HEAR WHAT I USED FOR THE BUSHING,

    760-000076635-0.jpg clear1x1.gifclear1x1.gifclear1x1.gifclear1x1.gif 76635 A340 AW4 A40 Transmission extension housing bushing. (38 MM) clear1x1.gif

    41.95mm outside diameter X 38.00mm inside diameter X 29.90mm wide. Bullet_MoreInfo.gif clear1x1.gifclear1x1.gif

    Competitors Price $2.88

    Your Cost $2.31

    You save $0.57! AND HEARS THE COMPANY JUST GOOGLE THEIR NAME AND THEY HAVE A PHONE NUMBER TO CALL.

    , Transmission Parts USA

    2715 Crag Street

    Fort Myers, FL 33901 FOUND THE NUMBER 939-790-5401

    GOOD LUCK ITS JUST ALL NUTS BOLTS AND HAND SOAP, MADE MY OWN GASKET , BUT YOU CAN GET AT THIS COMPANY, OR A DEALER.

    TAKE CARE RAS

    HOW TO REMOVE AUTO TRANS EXTENSION HOUSING

    in Engines - Transmissions - Drive Train - Suspension - Chassis - Steering - Exhaust - Tires - Etc.

    Posted

    HA ALL WORKED OUT GREAT, GOT THE EXTENSION HOUSING OFF , A COUPLE NECKS BUT, THATS PART OF DOING YOUR OWN REPAIRS, THE BUSHING I ORDERED FROM Transmission Parts USA

    2715 Crag Street

    Fort Myers, FL 33901- AT $2.31 WAS 38 MM INSIDE AND FIT THE YOKE PERFECT, THEN USE THE HACKSAW DEAL AND OUT CAME THE OLD BUSHING, USED A FEW OTHER TOOLS TO DRIVE THE NEW BUSHING IN PLACE FIRST I USED A PLASTIC HAMMER TO GET IT HALF WAY IN, THIS IS THE FUN PART LOOKED ALL AROUND MY SHOP AND FINELY FOUND SOME THING THE RIGHT SIZE, GUEST WHAT IT WAS, I HAD REPLACED A SELANIOD ON MY GAS GULF CART, A FEW WEEK EARLIER , WHO WOULD THING IT WAS PERFICT TOOL TO DRIVE IT HOME, CRAZY , TRYED ON MY DRIVE SHAF YOKE AND IT FIT GREAT NO MORE PLAY AND TURNED FREE, LUCKY ME. HERE SOMETHING, ORDER THE BUSHING ABOUT 1 PM ON MONDAY AND UPS WAS IN MY DRIVEWAY ON TUESDAY AT 11AM, FAST OR WHAT. NOW JUST NEED TO PUT ALL THE PIECES BACK TOGETHER AGAIN , THATS THE SIMPLE PART, AND JUST KNOWING YOU CAN SAVE AT LEST $200.00 DOLLARS SURE PUTS A SMILE ON MY FACE. O YES COULD NOT HAVE DONE THIS WITH OUT THE HELP AND SUPORT OF ALL YOU FINE FOLKS THANKS A BUNCH, TO BE CONTINUED .

    TAKE CARE RAS

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