Nam
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Posts posted by Nam
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Check all the F.I. plugs too. Also MAF sensor plug. Make sure there is no crack or leaky vacuum hoses. This could be hard to pin point. Mine does hick up occasionally when the gas tank is low and I am driving over a slope or up hill.
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3 hours ago, linda s said:
I've used cigarette lighter pumps to fill tires the whole time I've had a motorhome including the Dodge van camper I used to have. Never had one sort my lighter. They do warm up some when using but I just stop and let them cool some then turn them on again. Slime one I'm using now works great, about 2 or 3 years old.
Linda S
I like this one too...I have way too many of these inflators
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6 hours ago, markwilliam1 said:
Hey Nam, the inflator you referred to says not supported LT or for truck tires. Does it inflate your duallies? Doesn't get too hot or melt your cigarette lighter plug? I've had no luck with various 12volt plug in to the cigarette lighter socket types to inflate my tires to 65 psi. They overheat and crap out!
It worked just fine. I once inflated all 6 from 25PSI to 50PSI without issue. I like the automatic pressure setting so they all are consistent. I used a small portable 12AH battery since I didn't want to deal with the cord.
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9 hours ago, jjrbus said:
I've got the manual transfer, dumb setup. Generator feeds an outlet in the cord compartment, shore cord is either plugged into generator or shore power. I have to go outside to start the mighty little Honda anyway! Could not come up with room for auto setup.
Oh I hear you loud and clear. Setting 4 relays under the sofa bed with less than 12" of working clearance was a pain. I started in Nov. Of last year and didn't complete until like April. I did the manual plug in before thru the fridge outlet since the main house supply cord is on the other side of the MH and I can't dangle the cord while driving...
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I would replace the bag if leak comes from there. 30 yr. Old air bag should be replaced. I may be doing the same thing soon
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2 hours ago, WME said:
I did about the same thing for my toy. AC shore power, generator, inverter.
AC shore power to one leg of 30 amp ATS, the generator to the other. The powered output of the ATS went to a Xantrex ProSine 1800w inverter. The ProSine has a built in auto transfer switch (ATS).
The idea was no matter what I had for power the microwave and tv worked. The AC was priority, then the generator and last power choice was the inverter.
Yes the base order goes here as house AC has 1st priority, then generator, then the inverter. I also added disconnect for the DC converter when using the inverter. I will check out the Prosine
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I accidentally connected house power with the Honda generator once. Nothing happened at that time but I tried to prevent it from happening again so I came up with this scheme during a boring meeting at work. If you only need 30A, I would highly recommend this relay as anything else I tried made big loud buzzing noise.
YuCo YC-GP-DPDT-2 Power Relay 110/120V AC Coil 30Amp 2 Pole DPDT Heavy-Duty UL Listed RU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SFYWO02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_snVxzbRZVZ01X
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I am planning on installing a 2nd 100AH deep cycle battery and have trouble finding suitable location for it. I thinking of building in enclosed box with ventilation leading to outside as hydrogen is being released while charging and it could set the coach on fire. The other option is to install in the outside storage box but it's too far from the 1st battery and I still plan on carrying the generator on the outside box. Any idea?
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I found out the latest is that the Honda generator cannot keep up with the AC and charge the coach battery at the same time. So to keep the coach cool for the kid, I had to turn of the DC converter/battery charger. Thanks to my complicated scheme, I can just turn on the interver which cuts off power to the converter/charger so the Honda can keep AC going.
I have not yet received the new alternator yet!
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I replaced most of interior and even exterior lights with 36 LED SMD including stop lights, reverse lights, and even signal lights. They are cheap and easy to do. Something like this.
Well you get the idea...some marker lights can be replaced with LED with ease and low cost too.
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My left air lift does not hold pressure for too long either. Thinking about replacing it or fix it with some types of on board compressors to inflate/deflate remotely. Filling these air bags is a pain.
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Reviving old thread...I am still running about 52PSI all around tires. Any conclusion or any more opinions on this subject?
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I found that the screw-in type of inflator works well for duallies. a $30 pump will do the trick. This one is my fav.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L9WSTEG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1
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i just installed this:
Ebay has 1/2 price of Amazon. Will snap some pics when I get home. It's easy to install...took me about 1 hr. for six.
Question: what's everyone running at what PSI on tires. I run 50PSI all around and it seems bumpy. MFG recommends 26PSI all around I think. Mine is 1990 Itasca 321RB. The middle pic shows the repeater. I don't think we really need it since the MH is so short but I installed it anyway. I like it so far. Won't show anything until driving pass 12MPH
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Well it can be as simple as one would want or as complicated as what I had done. Schematic is attached but my objective is to have either the house cord plugged in, generator running, or the inverter turned on and still have once source of power which does not interfere with each other as you know AC runs on 60Hz and we don't want to parallel sources without proper sync. check. I may have over done it but I don't want to accidentally fry the Honda generator or fry the inverter (this inverter has wired and wireless remote control). Also one other objective is to have the inverter NOT to charge back the coach battery as this circulation current just turns into heat and drains the battery in no time. So here we go....I meant to draw this in CAD but ran out of time...sorry about my chicken scratch but it works well for my purpose. I tried to label all wires and install a clear acrylic cover under the sofa bed so no one can accidentally touch hot/live wires. The far end is the new intelligent 35A DC converter/battery charger
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I have mounted the Honda eu2000i in the hitch running the 8000BTU window AC mounted above the fridge for almost 4 years without issue. It's much quieter than the build-in onan 2800. This setup gets lots of attention from bystander for some reasons. I ran an additional plug for the gen set with automatic power transfer scheme between shore line power, generator, and 2000W inverter. This is fairly complicated setup and I will share later if there is interest.
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On 2017-05-25 at 7:12 PM, Ctgriffi said:
I regularly get about 13mpg in my V6, but I stay close to 60mph and keep tires between 55-60psi. I only turn O/D off on hills, and if I leave it off for long, mileage will drop to 10 pretty quickly. So... you're not far off the mark.
I get about the same...here in the Bay Area, I do run above 60 mph and 13 MPG has been a norm. My best tank was 14.5 MPG on flat and no head wind
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I have 6 Gal propane tank and when it's not leaking, it takes 2 years for me to fill up. I don't have propane fridge but furnace and water heater do consume a bit when in use.
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Here is the pic on my 1990 Itasca (similar to yours). I had a temporary aligator clip to manual charge the cab battery when plugged in
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I replaced mine with intelligence dynamic 35A smart converter with remote pedant since my old converter cooked the battery in less than 2 years
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Tried the bubble and I could not see the bubble as I think the leak is inside the hidden gap as I did hear the leaking sound changes when spraying with bubble. I'm want to use up this tank and replace the gauge gasket to see if leak still occurs
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Just got a 1994 T100 cluster gauge. What do I need to know for the swap? Should I order oil pressure sensor for 1994 T100 or 1990 pickup? The connector is different? The 1990 pickup one is cheaper in Rockauto. Since 1994 T100 has the same 3VZE 3.0 engine, do I need to modify the resistor for tachometer?
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Hi Linda,
Interestingly I installed 4 pcs. Of Bilsteins on the Itasca as well 6 months ago and we didn't take it out until now. Sitting in front, I thought the shocks make big improvement over the stocked one that we changed out...the rear ones almost didn't exist; however my wife said it was so bumpy...I run with around 45 PSI on a new set of Hancock R08 tires.
Not really sure what's what but I am not about to change them out at this time...if you happen to change to the KYB...I am interested in ride comparison...
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20 minutes ago, jjrbus said:
Let me preface this with I am not a mechanic, just another Toy owner trying to get by. When I see someone with an over heating issue if it was me the first thing I would check is actual motor temperature at the temperature sensor with an IR gun. I would not accept the reading of a decades old temp sensor or gauge at face value. The gauge is slightly over the middle, how hot is that in degree's?
I agree...it's more like almost three decade old temp gauge. Here is what I found at Yotatech in term of sensor location. I will warm the engine up and take the infrared temp. gun. It was about 107deg outside when this happened
Fresh water tank hatch cover
in General Discussion
Posted
That one would be very helpful Linda in places where the campground does not allow hose hook up to the RV. I had to cut a water bottle to do the same. I now carry a battery powered pump.